davyboy

Another good one :-
 

Today works ;


 

Planking on the port side from the frieze panels down including the channel wales completed.

Had a bit of a break between our holiday and starting treatment, so here's a final final update for a while! 🙂
 
The mizzen upper topgallants are now rigged and the sharp eyed might also notice that the fore lower shrouds are also sporting ratlines. Only one more square sail to go and then the full ratline, lower sheet, brace thing happens, plus some deck details I can't put on yet.
 
The 'Duchess' will hopefully return to active duty in mid November!
 
John
 

First planking is done up to the deck which I marked with a black dyed plank for visual reference when I do the second planking. Next job is to frame out the gun ports and windows before I finish up planking to the top of the gunwales. 
Rich

Small progress:
The bumpkins have been made.
Part of the length has an octagonal cross-section. Because these things are very small and curved, and taper towards the end, I couldn't think of a sensible way to machine them precisely and with sharp edges. The first attempt resulted in the area being perceived as more round.
I then used a visual trick by giving the beveled surfaces a slightly concave shape with a ball-end milling cutter.
 

 
We'll see if I leave it at that or if I can think of something else to improve them.
I can't install them yet; they would get in the way when lashing down the bowsprit and adjusting the figurehead.
 
Herzliche Grüße
Willi

Correction done, the hatchway of the main ladder, which I had forgotten, is now in right place :
:

Back at it today with Portland, right off the plane and into the garage! I finished the port side hull planking, got it all blocked out and coated with WOP, now I can move onto the black strake and then the wales. 


Also some goodies shows up, the remaining carvings for the model. These are the first production run in boxwood and look pretty good.



With each set of boxwood carvings you order, a set of stainless scrapers are included. These moulding profiles are taken from the drawings or Portland and the contemporary example of Bristol. The instructions will have a key that shows where each profile belongs on the model.
I couldn’t help myself and had to take a test run on a few of the rejects. These are just taped on and fitting pretty rough but you get a good idea of how it will look. There’s still a long way to go on the quarter galleys and the stern of the model. Before the rest of the carvings can be attached.

JJ

Your grating looks damn good to me.
The spaces (gaps) should be there.

Quarter grating and testing of the vertical position of the mizzen mast, before the deck planking :

As I reported, I enjoyed a weekend in Sweden with the main goal, the Vasa Museum. https://www.vasamuseet.se/cs
I had been preparing for this for about 40 years and it was worth it. When I arrived, my watch reported increased blood pressure and heart rate... I spent over 4 hours here, I could have stayed longer, but I took into account the company of my son. I walked around the ship several times and compared the beams and planks with the strips from which we model them... Having the ship about three meters away from each other is unreal. I tried to look at and photograph every detail. Simply indescribable, at the end a very long viewing with contemplation..🔥

I've made some progress on the boat. Front and main tackle finished, I'm tuning the Stays and the Schrouds are waiting for me..

Hello everyone
There's been a little progress, as small as its parts.
There are probably around 60 eyebolts with rings that had to be made and installed.
In the first photo, you can see four thimbles at the top. I didn't use them, though; they were too big.
 

 

 

 
A lot of work for a barely visible result.
 
Herzliche Grüße
Willi

Hello everyone
 
A few details:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
to be continued...
 
Herzliche Grüße
Willi

Guys thanks for the lovely comments 👍
 
I've made a start on the gratings which seem to be going ok but I'm not sure that they are correct so I do need a little help.
 
The gratings have a gap of 2.3mm between laths - every example I have seen of making gratings involves using a table saw to cut the slots.  Unfortunately I don't have a blade of that width and I also don't have an arbor where I can safely stack blades together.
 
The closest cutter I have is a 2mm end mill so thats what I used.  It took a while to mill it all out as each slot took 2 passes but I got there in the end
 

I then cut the parts to the required sizes and also cut the flat laths


I made a little jig to help with assembly which made the job very easy

My first grating squared off and its actually the correct size which surprised me

Now my question - looking at the underside I have the gaps shown in the picture below.  Is this correct or have a done something wrong or missed something out?  If someone could give me some advice it would be very welcome.

 
Thanks Mark

Some more work completed this week - I've been getting on with the planking between the mouldings which will complete the stern planking.

I also caught up with quite a bit of nailing that required finishing

The ship really is starting to look solid now




Finally I made the decorative moulding for the first beam on the quarterdeck

I want to make the gratings next but I need to wait for Gerard to confirm whether I have read the drawings correctly or not.  It shouldn't take long for a reply and then I can make something I've not made before.
 
Mark

To say I'm comfortable would be an exaggeration, laborious would better describe the small advance on rear quarterdeck :

I had planned to rough out the catheads, and the light being good for the photo, you won a small bonus :

Awesome and exciting project!
Make sure though that you have enough room in your house to display the model! Just because your garage is big enough doesn't necessarily mean that there is enough place in your living room to house this monster!
I made a similar error deciding to build a French 74 gunner 1780 after J. Boudriot, in the scale 1:48. Just enough room in my workshop, but after nearly 20 years of fiddling with it (I am a v. slow builder!) I found out that my living room is barely big enough to display this monstrosity!
 
Also, such a scale almost demands to build everything nearly exactly to the original, no simplifications and omissions! The question is, do you have enough time and interest (and appropriate materials) to persevere to the end? It would be almost a tragedy to stop the construction somewhere in the middle due to overwhelming difficulties with obtaining materials and simply due to loosing interest and burning out...
 
I keep my fingers crossed for you!
 
Thomas
 

Construction started with laying out a build board with marks for the keel sections. This gives me something to map the build to as well as provide support while building. I chose to model the keel in four separate pieces as the actual one is. Each piece is a different length and here we run into of the first major deviance from generally accepted practice. The main mast is stepped above a scarf joint at section 2 & 3. Typical keels of the time would have been made in three sections to avoid this by stepping the mainmast in the middle of the 2nd section. The accepted reason for this deviance is the Dutch shipbuilding practice that attempted to have minimal waste by using as much of the available wood as possible. Therefore it is believed that at the time of sourcing the wood for the ship, along with the other ships under contract at the time, this was the best they could do with minimal waste. We do not know if this would have truly mattered or not, as the ship was never able to truly put any strain on the joint. 

Once the sections were cut to length, the scarfs were cut out and the rabbet was grooved onto the sides. The pieces were glued together and left to dry. 

 
The overall length of the keel alone is 5'-4". Next up will be stem and stern posts. 

Here a small in between from my small series about ships at the end of their career. A simple hoeker wreck stranded at the beach. I think Emiel had more work creating this image than I did. Human figures by Artitec.

Aft Platform
 
Time to report on my progress. This time it is the aft platforms. But before doing that, I need  to mention that I finally discovered where the small triangular pieces of chapter 2  are going. These complete the last cant frame at the transom as shown in the photos below, before and after fairing. Yes they can be omitted, but they should help to secure the corner of the side plank that will be glued later.
 

For the platform framing, I proceeded as before with cardboard height references. To get to the proper height I needed to do more fairing of the frames. It is a bit tricky to get all those beams a the right position with clean adjustment at the frame.  Here it is very helpful to work with a card board template of the platforms. 
 

I found it easier to assemble the platforms separately.  It easier to cut out the hatches and sand the planking. 

The upper platform was done the same way. 

Adjusting the upper platform height is easier as the bottom platform and the bottom of the transom can be used as reference for the fore and aft ends, respectively. The inboard great cabin planking expansion (plan sheet four) is also useful to check that the upper platform is at the correct height. Here are a few shots of the completed platforms.
 


 
I can now probably do the cabin wall planking while waiting for the next chapters.
 
 
 
 

Preparation of the rear quarterdeck, with usual test positioning of the clamps, before gluing :

The interlocked pillar and the aft platform should be glued in simultaneously, a bit of a stressful glue-up.
I scuffed up the glue contact spots with a curved riffler file, taking care not to leave finger marks all around. 

Now the whole platform-pillar-maststep assembly is permanently in place! Slightly crooked (was relying too much on pencil marks, lesson learned), but no one would know  

 
Almost forgot to record the installation process, but it is straightforward - scuff the tenon with a light touch of a diamond file, mask around the mortise to simplify the cleanup, brush off any squeeze-out with a damp stiff bristle brush.
Then put the deck on to lock the pillar in its final position and leave it for a day to properly dry (I was installing two pillars at a time).

Surprisingly that approach worked perfectly! Despite a tiny contact area, the mortise-and-tenon joints keep pillars tightly locked, they feel quite rigid if you try to wiggle them. And the deck pops in and out like a charm! It gets really locked in place by deck clamp notches and the pillars, only a light touch required to put it in place.
Even a bad video speaks more than any words. It just pops into place, so satisfying!  
 
 
And here is the final result:


Pink Ivory looks really cool while fresh and still pink  
Can recommend, a good contrast in both colour and texture, though a bit of a pain to work with.
Here is the way it would be seen once all the decks are finished, doubt it would be easy to see pillars from the top.

Today's work finished and glued, even can turn the little capstan, all like its great brother behind main mast :