davec

Next up are the anchor cats.  Traditional placement and maybe a hair over-sized (measurements taken from Yedlinski's summary of Steele for a boat of approximate size).

Card is easier and more efficient than wasting wood.
Maury

The upper rails have been given another two diluted coats of paint (MS Hull/Spar Black).

The scarf joint near the bow is clearly visible at this magnification.

Now off to work on a rudder issue.
Maury

The stanchions and bottoms of the rails are painted and the rails are test fitted.


And more from the side...


The tops of the stanchion tenons are clipped and sanded off and the stanchions are glued in place.
Maury

The upper rail continues over the bow section.  A piece was marked and roughly cut to shape.  The scarf joint was started on the long piece (all those aligned tenon holes).  After it was cut and finished, the two pieces were put in place and the mating shape was marked on the curved piece and cut.
Both pieces' width needs thinning a bit before painting.  That will obscure the joint for now.
Maury

I test fit the upper rail.  It had to be done with stanchions in the upper rail then fit to the main.  When I get around to a permanent install, the glue will have to be S L O W drying.  Ed Tosti mentioned that white glue has less rigidity / brittleness.  That may be the way to go.


Maury

Work on the stanchions...There are 18 stanchions on each side, 7-1/4" square and 11 -1/2" tall (between the two rails).  First the long piece was cut on the table saw, finish-sanded to the proper sides then chopped off using a sled on the table saw.  Final sizing length was done on the "shooting board" sander.  Each has a tenon, top and bottom.  I made a jig for the mill, three sides rigid to the size of the stanchion, last side open.

The mill was setup with the center of the stanchion centered.  The long piece sticking down holds the stanchion firmly in the jig while being drilled.  I bored from both ends to make sure centers matched.
Tenons were made using bamboo and the Byrnes Draw Plate,  inserted through the stanchion with a dab of glue and wiped off.
Temporary installation shown below.


The vertical corners will get sanded off and the pieces painted black.
Maury

No pictures for a few days...the computer has been in for a tuneup.  THe upper and main rails were shaped and stanchion pins drilled while they were taped together.  Sheer planks and main rails painted and glued.

Maury

Thanks for all the "Likes" and especially the comments.  The deck planking has been re-stained. 


The variation in color is a result of having scraped the planks earlier, then staining over them.  There were some planks that were still "too light" so I just stained over them again to bring the variation to how I wanted it.  Brush it on and wipe off right away.  I went through a dozen Q-tips.  Personal choice.  The masking tape is Tamiya, well burnished.  The joint between the planking and the waterway (barely visible) is caulked with Ebony Minwax putty and rubbed off.  A few touch-ups are needed on the black paint on the waterway.
Maury

The deck planking is installed and scraped.  It gets another coat or two of stain.  I'll see how I like the mottled look as I move along.  The finish is quite different on boards that were scraped vs. those just sanded. 
A lot of masking to do to prevent bleeding into beams or bitts, etc. before I apply any more stain.


Maury
 

A bunch of progress over the weekend.  The deck planking was extended to the center-line, then scraped even.  It's surprising how much variation in installed planks there was even though they were all thicknessed at once.
 



I built up the Elm Tree Pumps...standard design from either Echo or Cheerful plans.
 

One of the arms needs some straightening out a bit.  Once the handle is in, it will hold just fine.  The pump tubes are <1' (octagonal) (<1/4") and stand about 3.5' above the deck.   Not shown are the exit tubes (3/32" brass tubing) or the plunger rod.  Reinforcing bands are black paper painted "Iron Black".  The handles will be shortened a bit.
Maury
 

I started the deck planking.  I experimented with holly and box.  The holly was too soft and the finish came out blotchy.  First task was several tests of color and tone.  Planks were cut to 2.5" x 10" (full size) on the saw and thickness sander and then treated with a Model Shipways black walnut stain (water based).  Two coats was enough for now.  The first plank next to the main hatch was the starting point.  Both ends were set equidistant from the center line and abutted to the hatch.  Planks will be parallel out to the side.  Tapering will be done on the final strake(s).
 

 
Following the planking plan for where joints fall, I started moving out towards the sides.  The edges of the planks are rubbed with a soft pencil to simulate caulking.  The starboard side will have sections left off for exposure of the gears, water tank and great cat.  An advantage of me making all the beams paired from two 6x pieces is I have a center point on each beam for landing joints.  I'm experimenting with simulated plugs rather than treenails for the deck planks.  The plugs will be tapped in once decking is complete.    I'm using thin hypodermic tubing to make the outline of the plug.  Highlighting will be done with either black leather polish or India ink.  Subtle, but not too much so.  
 

 
Maury

I got to tryout my Sherline lathe on serious work for the first time.  There is pawl ring under the capstans.  It is round.  First hint the lathe may be the right tool.  The object was to cut a ring with a channel in it.  Since the capstan covers it the inner portion does not matter.
 

First I built a carrier jig to hold the piece I'll be working on.  It's just a piece of flat 1/4" stock glued to the end of a dowel.  It will be reusable for the other ring and maybe something else.  I faced it on the lathe to make sure the final piece would not vary in thickness and left it in the chuck.  Then I glued the pattern (approximately) in the center and temporarily tacked and clamped the working piece (1/16" board) to the jig and let it dry overnight.
 

 
I blew the first attempt.  I ended up with a chip in the outer portion of the ring.  (no picture).  Higher speed and slower feed corrected the problem on the second try.
 

The inner section will be covered by the capstan so the finish does not matter.  Big improvement.  It took me twice as much time soaking in iso. and prying it off the jig as it took to set up and cut.
Next come the pawl stops in the channel.  25 Lb. monofilament line cut into little pieces and (CA) glued in place.
 

 
Now it all gets painted "iron black" so it looks like metal and a lot of the detail disappears.
Maury
 
 
 

The inner bulwarks are done.
 
 

 
The partners are not yet glued in place.
 


 
I've faired the tops of the inner and outer bulwarks for the main rail.  Not sure whether I put in the deck planking before the rails.  The bow and transom have arched rails so some serious bending is yet to be done.
Maury
 

Hi All,
 
Still slowly rigging the cannon. I’m so glad there are only 12!
 
As a distraction I assembled the elm tree pumps.
Again another great mini kit from Chuck.
The laser parts were a life saver.
 

 
I will hold off on placing until after I finish rigging the guns.
 
They should be safer that way.

Hi All,
 
Time for some updating.
 
I took a break from rigging the cannon and seeing that I’d made the bow sprite I figured I should put in place.
 
I made the bowsprit step from Chuck’s mini kit. It was of, course, a pleasure to build and went together like a dream.
 

 
The winch on the other hand was scratch built from the plans. There were a few do over’s and the scrap bin is a bit fuller but success was finally achieved.
 

 
And here is it all in place. 
 
 

 
 
I guess it's back to stropping blocks and finishing up the cannon rigging.
 

Thanks Joe. Yes there is always so much to do and way too little time.
 
Thanks Pat, always appreciated.
 
I've completed the breeching ropes and installed the rest of the guns.
 
Also you can see the chimney has been added too.
 

 
 
 

 
Now I have to do the gun tackles. 
 
You will also notice that there are numerous touch ups needed!
 
Thanks for stopping by.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

While rigging the breech ropes I’ve also been working on the offending pin rail. And since I was
re-doing that I figured that I needed to make the bowsprit so I could make the proper placement.
 
The bowsprit was turned from 5/16” square boxwood.
 

 
After I marked off the bowsprit in the 7/10/7 ratio and trimmed it to an octagon. I then chucked it
in the lath and slowly turned it to the desired size. Here it’s painted and ready for the 4 eye bolts.
 

 
The bowsprit hole in the bulwarks was enlarged to accept the bowsprit and then I could determine
the correct height of the pin rail.
 

 
So now the two long guns and pin rail are in place. Once I finish rigging the guns I’ll do the bowsprit
step and install it and the bowsprit.

Hi Pat, Thank you and thanks for stopping by.
 
Just a small update for now. 
 
The Carronades and long guns were sitting collecting dust so I’ve started to add the breeching ropes.
 

 
One down and thankfully only 11 more to go!
 
 

We just finished some work on our house, which included major renovations to my workshop.  I thought of putting up a build log of the renovations, but it wasn't me doing the work, and I just never got it together.
 
My old workshop was my dream workshop when we moved into the house. It was the first time I ever had a dedicated room, and it was decent size, around 17x12 feet. It was a usual basement room: unfinished, with exposed insulation, uncovered small part-eating gap between slab and wall, and just got outgrown as I go more tools and tried to work on two projects at once.  The room was off a “two-car garage”, which only fit two cars if they are parked front to back.  I used my table and band saws there.
 
At the urging of my tremendously supportive wife, we put up an insulated wall that splits the garage and creates a new second workshop room. There is a third furnace room in back, which we were able to clear out.  All three rooms will be part of the new workshop.  The two front rooms got:
 
-Sheet rock over ceilings and exposed insulation
-Painted walls, ceilings, and floors
-lights and electrical outlets
-dehumidifier with drain for condensate
-vent for spray booth
-molding covering gap between walls and slab where parts always disappeared
-utility sinks
 
The unfinished furnace room got lights and electrical outlets.  The epoxy floors should be dry enough that I can start to move my tables and tools back in over the weekend.  Plan is for storage and big sawdust producing machines in the unfinished room (band saw and table saw). Still working on the layout of the other rooms.  Most likely paint and assembly in the new room with the spray booth vent, and wood and metal small power tools in the old workshop.  I don’t think I will outgrow this workshop, and now could build something bigger than a model if I ever want to.
 
Some pictures below. The camera on my phone made the rooms look a lot darker than they really are - the lighting is great.   I didn’t take any of the furnace room. It looks like an unfinished basement room with a furnace in the corner, but now with lights and enough electrical outlets.  First two pictures are the new room, second two are the renovated old workshop room.
 
Should be able to get back to Echo in a week or so.  It’s been sitting on the shelf if my office waiting. 

Vince and Druxey - many thanks.  I still haven't moved anything back in.  I spent the last few days cleaning the plaster dust that got all over the house, and yesterday moving many boxes of stuff out of a storage locker and into the new attic room.  I got my wife's side of the garage back in order.  I'm hoping to be back in business by next weekend.
 
Dave

We just finished some work on our house, which included major renovations to my workshop.  I thought of putting up a build log of the renovations, but it wasn't me doing the work, and I just never got it together.
 
My old workshop was my dream workshop when we moved into the house. It was the first time I ever had a dedicated room, and it was decent size, around 17x12 feet. It was a usual basement room: unfinished, with exposed insulation, uncovered small part-eating gap between slab and wall, and just got outgrown as I go more tools and tried to work on two projects at once.  The room was off a “two-car garage”, which only fit two cars if they are parked front to back.  I used my table and band saws there.
 
At the urging of my tremendously supportive wife, we put up an insulated wall that splits the garage and creates a new second workshop room. There is a third furnace room in back, which we were able to clear out.  All three rooms will be part of the new workshop.  The two front rooms got:
 
-Sheet rock over ceilings and exposed insulation
-Painted walls, ceilings, and floors
-lights and electrical outlets
-dehumidifier with drain for condensate
-vent for spray booth
-molding covering gap between walls and slab where parts always disappeared
-utility sinks
 
The unfinished furnace room got lights and electrical outlets.  The epoxy floors should be dry enough that I can start to move my tables and tools back in over the weekend.  Plan is for storage and big sawdust producing machines in the unfinished room (band saw and table saw). Still working on the layout of the other rooms.  Most likely paint and assembly in the new room with the spray booth vent, and wood and metal small power tools in the old workshop.  I don’t think I will outgrow this workshop, and now could build something bigger than a model if I ever want to.
 
Some pictures below. The camera on my phone made the rooms look a lot darker than they really are - the lighting is great.   I didn’t take any of the furnace room. It looks like an unfinished basement room with a furnace in the corner, but now with lights and enough electrical outlets.  First two pictures are the new room, second two are the renovated old workshop room.
 
Should be able to get back to Echo in a week or so.  It’s been sitting on the shelf if my office waiting. 

Vince and Druxey - many thanks.  I still haven't moved anything back in.  I spent the last few days cleaning the plaster dust that got all over the house, and yesterday moving many boxes of stuff out of a storage locker and into the new attic room.  I got my wife's side of the garage back in order.  I'm hoping to be back in business by next weekend.
 
Dave

Vince and Druxey - many thanks.  I still haven't moved anything back in.  I spent the last few days cleaning the plaster dust that got all over the house, and yesterday moving many boxes of stuff out of a storage locker and into the new attic room.  I got my wife's side of the garage back in order.  I'm hoping to be back in business by next weekend.
 
Dave

We just finished some work on our house, which included major renovations to my workshop.  I thought of putting up a build log of the renovations, but it wasn't me doing the work, and I just never got it together.
 
My old workshop was my dream workshop when we moved into the house. It was the first time I ever had a dedicated room, and it was decent size, around 17x12 feet. It was a usual basement room: unfinished, with exposed insulation, uncovered small part-eating gap between slab and wall, and just got outgrown as I go more tools and tried to work on two projects at once.  The room was off a “two-car garage”, which only fit two cars if they are parked front to back.  I used my table and band saws there.
 
At the urging of my tremendously supportive wife, we put up an insulated wall that splits the garage and creates a new second workshop room. There is a third furnace room in back, which we were able to clear out.  All three rooms will be part of the new workshop.  The two front rooms got:
 
-Sheet rock over ceilings and exposed insulation
-Painted walls, ceilings, and floors
-lights and electrical outlets
-dehumidifier with drain for condensate
-vent for spray booth
-molding covering gap between walls and slab where parts always disappeared
-utility sinks
 
The unfinished furnace room got lights and electrical outlets.  The epoxy floors should be dry enough that I can start to move my tables and tools back in over the weekend.  Plan is for storage and big sawdust producing machines in the unfinished room (band saw and table saw). Still working on the layout of the other rooms.  Most likely paint and assembly in the new room with the spray booth vent, and wood and metal small power tools in the old workshop.  I don’t think I will outgrow this workshop, and now could build something bigger than a model if I ever want to.
 
Some pictures below. The camera on my phone made the rooms look a lot darker than they really are - the lighting is great.   I didn’t take any of the furnace room. It looks like an unfinished basement room with a furnace in the corner, but now with lights and enough electrical outlets.  First two pictures are the new room, second two are the renovated old workshop room.
 
Should be able to get back to Echo in a week or so.  It’s been sitting on the shelf if my office waiting. 

I completed the upper hull planking to the level of the shear strake.  Treenails are boxwood.  I started work on the inner upper hull planking as well.  I added the quarterdeck clamp and port stops.  I’m going to use swiss pear on the bulwarks planking and gun carriages.  I have some bloodwood, which would do better for a red color, but the grain seems too prominent.
 
I must have had some cumulative error in my measurements.  The plans specify two 11.5” planks with the lower one starting at the upper edge of the gunport.  This put the quarterdeck too high, so I thinned both strakes.  I used boxwood for the clamp on the side I am leaving unplanked.  Hopefully the different woods on the two sides won’t look bad.  The alternative was to use pear on both sides, but then it would have been the only piece of wood that wasn’t boxwood on that side of the hull.
 
I still haven’t decided about treenails for the holly lower hull.  I’m going to put finish on the upper hull tonight and reassess.  I think it will make the boxwood treenails more prominent, and if it does, I may decide the outer hull looks busy enough and not add any more treenails.
 
I’m still a little stuck on next steps.  I’d planned on putting in the lower and upper deck quickwork and spirketing prior to installing the deck beams and inner fixtures so I can sand and treenail without disrupting anything.  It looks like the placement of the deck beam and waterway determines the placement of the quickwork, so I may need to start work on the lower deck.