NMBROOK

Thanks Nigel.  I'll go have a look then.     I'm just very cautious about such things.  Always have been and probably always will be.   Hell, I even paid for the original Leisure Suit Larry game way back when it was pirated by everybody. 

I have fully sanded the deck smooth.After this,the deck was wiped with an extremely diluted mix of Liver of sulpur gel,http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/,thiswas to take the shine off the copper,rather than turn it black,which a stronger mix would have done.It has removed the shine and darkened the copper ever so slightly.So far two coats of poly have been applied and the deck has been rubbed down ready for the third.
 
Happy New Year everyone
 
Nigel

A plank on the counter and a filler block between the most outboard stern timber and bulkhead R. More will be coming when I'm not having champagne with the family for New Year's Eve.
 
BTW, HAPPY NEW YEAR'S EVERYBODY!!!!!!!    
 
Also, GO BUCKEYES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!                      

Thanks for all the responses. I think I will play around with some veneers.

Hi Spyglass
I got mine from good old E Bay
there's a god choice of woods  lengths and widths
also try original marquetry they do some v nice saw cut veneers that are ideal for our hobby
also a company called twigfolly
give old Google a try
Andy

Fabulous work mate Everything blends together in harmony!
 
Happy New Year
 
Nigel

No Mark,most of this is original footage filmed by the Australian crew that was never used in the DVD.These have been posted by Modelsworld.ru,Russia's modeling forum.There are literally hundreds of other tutorial videos covering plastic modelling,armour etc.
 
Happy New Year
 
Nigel

No Mark,most of this is original footage filmed by the Australian crew that was never used in the DVD.These have been posted by Modelsworld.ru,Russia's modeling forum.There are literally hundreds of other tutorial videos covering plastic modelling,armour etc.
 
Happy New Year
 
Nigel

No Mark,most of this is original footage filmed by the Australian crew that was never used in the DVD.These have been posted by Modelsworld.ru,Russia's modeling forum.There are literally hundreds of other tutorial videos covering plastic modelling,armour etc.
 
Happy New Year
 
Nigel

No Mark,most of this is original footage filmed by the Australian crew that was never used in the DVD.These have been posted by Modelsworld.ru,Russia's modeling forum.There are literally hundreds of other tutorial videos covering plastic modelling,armour etc.
 
Happy New Year
 
Nigel

I felt the need to post some pics to celebrate the completion of the gundeck 'treenailing'.The aft section still needs sanding smooth and I will then apply a coat of thinned poly to protect the deck during future work.A rough count up shows well in excess of 3000 fixings Some sanity has been retained thanks to the music of Vangelis and Hans Zimmer
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This was the sequence for the top end shaping.
 
the first shots showing the rotational shaping in the lathe using the chuck as a vice while moving the cutter back and forth.
 

 

 

 

 
Next using a rat tail file to finish off the shape
 

 
after filing but before final clean up.
 

 
ready to assemble
 

 
Michael

Thank you Ed, Tom, Carl, Bob and Row for your kind comments and to all those who liked the last few entries.
 
I think I could make one of these small stop cocks now in my sleep. I have gone through a number of failures with silver soldering handles mainly because I was using the wrong approach to setting them up to solder.
 
The following sequence shows most of the steps and elements in the stop cocks.
`
First picture shows some 1 inch tapered clock pins cut to length prepared for soldering
 

 
This  one shows the box of tapered steel clock and watchmaking pins that that match the tapered broaches, I decided to use them instead of threading the rotating part and using springs and nuts. 
 

 
The hole through the centre was bored after the threading was done, with a number 59 drill, I used paint thinner as a lubricant, normally I do not use lubricant when machining brass but with these small diameters and threading it helps.
 

 
A finger tip as requested behind the main body of the valve
 

 
Drilling through the body for the steel tapered part. I found it helped to make up a couple of holding jigs with some hex brass rods.
 

 
Using a full pin to test the depth of cut with the taper broach of the valve body
 

 
In the palm of my hand for scale
 

 
The new stopcock on the left with the old one on the right. I Like the shape of the longer handle better and it is also easier to turn, as I am sure they are in full size as well
 

 
Another couple of overall comparison shots for scale
 

 

 
I have all the parts now to make a pair of stop cocks like the new one, plus all of the steps figured out for soldering and final assembly. I think it is also time to finish shaping the top part of the head.
 
Michael
 
 

Built another priming cup and stopcock, it is getting closer still needs some refining.
 

 

 
michael

Jack, Row, Mark, Steve, Matt, Denis and Carl, thanks for the encouragement.
Thanks to all for the likes.
 
I took a break from the drive train today and fabricated the Valve caps these are there to allow the valves to be removed from the head because on the full size engine the head was a single casting. because of the small size of my model I have built the head in two parts. I haven't fully resolved how I will join them yet.
 
The two outside caps which line up with the inlet ports are also set up as priming ports with a couple of little cups above the stop cocks that are threaded into them. like these on the top

 
So I had a bit of fun having a go at making a stop cock to fit into the top.
Looking down into the open valve.
 

 
Now closed
 

 
From the side
 

 

 
The valve cap is threaded 8x36 into the head these were made from some 3/16th rod from Home Depot (nice hard brass)
The valve body is machined up from some 1/8 hex stock, I have a fair bit of it left over from a commercial job 20 years ago (it was a special order locally and I had to buy 16 feet of it) it is also a nice free machining hard brass.
 
The steel insert is a mystery steel (salvaged rods from a library card catalogue system filing cabinet) it seem to machine freely and is 1/8th in diameter.
 
The threads on the valve body is 1x72 with a # 59 drill hole through the length. The cross hole was 1/16 then tapered with the largest clock making tapered broach. the steel was tapered to match on the lathe and threaded 0x80 for the retaining spring and nut. the handle end was shaped with needle files while still on the lathe then heated in a pin vice and bent with some flat pliers.
 
Once the steel was shaped I set it into the brass body put it back into the lathe and drilled through the steel with the handle in the open position using the same #59 drill from the opposite end. It looks a bit crude and now that I know I can make one this small I will set up and make a pair that are a bit closer looking to the ones on the 1:1 engines
 
Michael

Steve, Carl thanks for your thoughts , and thanks you to all who added a like.
 
Carl the real engine is actually quite a small one.
 
 
Steve, My plan is to have it as a slow running engine am thinking that I will weight the flywheel with some lead in the outer area to give it more mass.
 
My silver soldering was a great success..... not so with the clean up
 

 
look at the upper right hand con rod bearing!
 

 
Yup made the classic mistake of beginning to cut out the wrong piece
 
I went ahead and cleaned it up because after letting the universe know what a silly move it was with a little colourful language, I wanted to see how the shaft fit and can also use it as a placeholder to test fit the con-rods and pistons knowing that I do have to build a new one.
 

 
I was pleased that it did not warp and and my method of setting up the parts and pre-placing the solder by wrapping very fine strips around the shafts outside of the actual bearing surfaces worked very well. I turned up some sacrificial pins that were the same diameter as the spaces between the plates to hold things in line. after cleaning it up and placing it into the bearings the shaft spun nicely between my fingers.
 

 

 
Next on to the con rods and Pistons.
 
Michael
 
 

Row and Carl
This is a picture looking inside the crankcase of the 3hp buffalo just like the one in Skipjack
 

 
I have modeled my crankshaft after this one.
 
Michael

This afternoon after getting the shop warmed up a bit from 3 degrees to 13 degrees C I worked on the parts for the crankshaft.
 
First I thinned down a piece of 1/8th gauge-plate to .094 then drilled and reamed 8 holes to 1/8th diameter.
 

 
Next I cut the piece into the four plates for the sides of the con rod bearings part of the crankshaft, I used a new blade in the jewelers saw.
 

 
A 1/8th set of dowels were slipped through the holes and the group were clamped in the vice and filed to shape.
 

 
Then polished up with 400, 600, and 1200 wet and dry sandpaper., I like it when I can get a reflective surface, then I know it is pretty smooth.
 

 

 
The sides of the plates will get polished Tuesday or Wednesday. Tomorrow is errand day in the big city.
 
I turned up the .344" long 1/8 inch diameter shafts for the big ends of the con rods and did a dry assemble to see how the whole lot looks.
 

 

 
I will silver solder the lot together then cut off the parts of the main shaft that are not needed. "The proof will be in the pudding" as they say, so crossing my fingers for a clean soldering job.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

"From my hot rodding days, it might... maybe... hope... be easier to fabricate it."
 
Mark this is the option that I have decided upon, When I have more experience I would like to have a go at machining one from solid.
 
"we are all spellbound. This hardly seems possible by human hands and tools at this scale"
 
Mark As I am working I often muse to myself how would a watchmaker tackle this fabrication, and then look at some of the amazing work they do and am humbled by their skill.
 
Joe, and all Thank you for following along and your kind comments.
 
"but I would have thought that at the scale your working at fabricating would probably be quicker - from what I've seen of the processes the machining option looks to be long and tedious without cnc lathe control."
 
Row, I have read a couple of tutorials on the model engine forum about machining the crankshaft and there is a fair bit of preparatory jig making to set up for the offsets and keeping it all inline, You are correct in suggesting that fabrication is faster, not that speed is a concern.
 
"I had almost forgotten the size of this until you mentioned the 1/8 shaft."
 
Ed, this is something that continually trips me when working on the drawings because it all looks so large on the screen
 
"Machining like that is something I only dream about"
Bob, funny you should mention this, because I have been waking up with immediate thoughts about how to do the next task, sort of solving it in my sleep.
 
"Never throw any stuff out, "It might come in useful...""
 
Druxey the only concern with having this mindset is one almost needs a warehouse to store all this stuff I have to argue with myself all the time "really do you need to keep this?"..... Yes because I might need it one day!"
 
"will you have to adjust the compression ratio for scale?"
 
Mark, I honestly have no Idea, I am basically flying by the seat of my pants on this one. I suppose that the only way I will know is when I give it a spin and she fires up. I would be able to make some adjustment with the length of the valve caps in the top of the cylinder head.
 
Thanks to all those who added a like the previous posts.
 
Suppers ready so I will add some pics of the crankshaft after supper.
 
Michael
 

Thanks for all the likes today.
 
I reached a milestone today and got the main bearings roughed in.
 
First I machined up the keeper blocks. and some studs.
 

 

 
Assembled them in order to ream them for the 1/8th shaft.
 

 
I thought it best to use the hand reamer rather than setting it up in the mill for the machine reamer.
 

 
After thinning down the area on the upper crankcase it all went together quite nicely. and the shaft rotates easily.
 

 
I am still deciding whether to fabricate the crankshaft or machine it from solid bar, either way it will be tricky.
 
Michael
 
 

Hi Steve
the extra length serves as a housing for the reversing clutch for the prop. like this one on the old marine site
 

 
 
Thanks for all the likes
 
Michael

Ed hopefully the next set of pictures will clarify my description. Mark well it is not a complete machine job there is some soldering however I did not want to anneal the brass that has the bearings braces so opted for soft solder which will be more than adequate for the oil pan.
 
The first picture shows the material being removes that will become the hollow areas'some parts were machined by the numbers and the bulk was just milled away by eyeballing it.
 

 
Next the 1/32 thick sheet was annealed and curved over a steel bar.
 

 
It took a while to get it fitted cleanly, the flat area on the middle bearing wall is to allow the oil to pass through to equalize both chambers.
 

 
The next picture shows the assembled parts cleaned up a bit getting ready to do the soldering.
 

 
Resting the upper part of the crankcase to see the overall scope of the whole engine.
 

 
In the next picture you can see the central cross member.
 

 

 
There is still a fair bit of cleaning up to do but I am generally pleased with the progress.
 
Again thanks to all who have looked in and pressed the like button.
 
Michael
 
 

Set up the table of offsets to machine the curved inner surface of the oil pan, and after two hours of cranking the block back and forth the shape slowly emerged. I lowered the cutter .010" for each pass.  Next I will cut away the negative areas where the cranks will rotate and either side of the bottom of the crankcase then flip it over to finish off the bearing recesses. then a brass shell will get soldered onto the cross members, creating the hollow shape.
 

 
I made it this way because I was stumped as to how to get the inside shapes of the oil pan, I suppose I could have set up a boring bar and scooped out the recesses the only issue with doing it that way was being able to have an opening underneath the central bearing beam to allow the oil to move about in the bottom and equalize rather than being isolated to each recess. the other advantage to making it this way is is that I will be confident that the wall thickness will be consistent.
 
Thanks for the likes.
 
Michael
 
 

Thanks for all the likes and encouraging comments.
 
I had to make another cutter to make the recesses in the main flanges
 

 
I have already drilled the holes to accept the camshaft bearings they are larger because I need to be able to clear the raised cams.
 

 
An overall shot of the progress to date.
 

 
A close up of the new cutter, I needed a long reach with a small diameter cutting edge to fit next to the body of the case. it is hardened drill rod the diameter at the cutting face is .086" The bolt holes are .060 and the case it tapped ready for the 0x80 bolts.
 

 
Michael

Omega, here is a drawing showing the cross section of the engine and the camshaft with the valve in the open and closed positions.
 

valve train.pdf
 
Bob thanks for the compliment, one of the difficulties of working with the small sizes is that when drawing they are as big as the screen and it is a constant effort to remember the real size as I am drawing.  when an area looks about right and then I realize that the dimension might be only 1/64th I have to do some rethinking.
 
Michael