NMBROOK

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
Adhesives deck design elements.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
Came more items. Visible on the deck connected components without glue. Numbered will wait in a queue for permanent installation.
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Hello,
it has been some time since my last update to my building report.
So I made in the meantime other small but important details. So the timberheads received post covers in roof form.
Another detail to protect the hull from the anchor flukes was added.
 
Here you can see some pictures.
I hope that you like it,

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Gaetan
I have followed along in the shadows for a while,but now must say I am admirer of your work,it is fantastic  Two things historically you may find of interest,but you may know already.
It is officially documented that a builders model was produced for Sovereign of the Seas.This is regarded as possibly the first builders model in England.This dates to around 1637.
In 1698,Peter the Great visited the Royal dockyards and was given a model of the Royal Sovereign,this started the ship model building phenomenon in Russia that many of us are aware of today.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

To be honest Nils,after reading your post four times,I cannot work out whether you are having a go at me personally for posting my find of this DVD.After all in your eyes I could be seen as promoting it.My only question is,surely your argument would then apply to any modeler who chooses to write a book.After all,are they not 'cashing in' on the hobby?In my opinion a DVD is no different to a book,other than it probably does demonstrate things a little.better.
I would mention again that I have no connection with this DVD's producers.
 
Nigel

Hi Marc
Here is the link to his Rivoli build on the Russian forum,and this one works It will give you an idea of the level in question.In Russia building model ships is a sport and the champions have almost the same 'fame' as say a footballer in the UK or a basketball player in the US.
Any modeler who makes his own nails from solid silver(for the colour) and then fits over 100 in each gunport lid is at the top of their game in my book.
http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic3439.html
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Thank Nigel! I'll get those 5 planks in and post another update then.
 
Nick

Allowing for the fact that the lines are actually on the inside of the planking,I think they will look pretty much spot on Nick
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey Sjors and Nigel!
 
Thanks for the feedback guys.
 
You're absolutely right Sjors. In fact it's going to be non-existent!! Think Nigel may be onto something here... A couple of photos to explain...
 
So here I've drawn the planks as Nigel suggested. They are a lot wider especially compared to the planks above (as in if the ship was the right way up)
 

 
however, turn the ship the right way up... and voila!
 

 
Actually doesn't look bad at all (well apart from my uneven unsanded second planking ).
 
I think I may even try to do those drawn planks first just to make sure it does look ok before carrying with the rest of the planking.
 
Thanks a lot again guys (Don't you just LOVE MSW!! :) )
 
Nick
 

Hi Nick
I have been pondering on this one.I feel that if you carry on as you are then the planking will look correct when the ship is the correct way up.The wider ends that meet the stem,will not appear wider due to the angle the stem slopes away.This is hard to explain,but from memory,a similar thing happened on Caroline,the plank ends did fan out so they appear a more uniform depth when viewed from ahead ( with the model the right way up).I suggest you draw the remaining planks in,in pencil,then you should see what I mean.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

thanks Nigel I like that plan!

Looking good John I think it is fairly safe to say,there really isn't any right or wrong approach to the forecastle.This area is very much unchartered waters.The only suggestion I could offer,although you have probably thought of this.If the forecastle is to be hollow,with internal decks,I would temporarily fit  the frames and brace at the top.These could then be faired.After fairing and stripping down,the inside profile of the frame thickness could be marked and then cut out before gluing permanently in position.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S. Thank you for the plethora of 'likes'

ok, all the damage from before has been repaired and I am pretty much back to where I was a week ago.  Rather than start gluing the forward frames on again though I am going to get the stern pre-fit just in case something else goes wrong. 
 

 
 
 
Today I received my first order from Fredericus Max that I put in for figures and I am delighted with them!  The cast metal figures are very good but the resin chess player figures I ordered just blew me away,  They are a bit hard for me to photograph with my cheapo camera, the pics on Fredericus Max website are much better but I couldn't resist posting one.
 

 
Web site for Fredericus Max: http://www.fredericus-rex.de/Valdemar-Miniaturen/?XTCsid=cdascfi2hv8a40r4nubmr3o9t1
 

Well I am making one step forward and two steps back lately.  I have been putting off gluing frames to the keel for fear that I had forgotten something to be done before adding frames.  I got several of the forward frames cut and sanded with their proper bevel.  This was an interesting point when I got the bevel sanded in I could really see the shape of the bow,  Mary Rose in not a bluff bowed ship, she really has quite a fine entrance.
 

 
Finally yesterday I got up the nerve to begin gluing frames on, got the first 6 glued and and discovered I had made a mistake in height location for either the first three or the last three.  Anyway wound up tearing them all off and will have to re-make them.  If you happened to notice a blue glow in the sky last night that wasn't the northern lights, it was the glow from all the bad language that accompanied tearing the frames off. 
 

 

 
All my previous models have been small workboats so Mary Rose is a new challenge to me.  I hope I am going about framing the forecastle correctly.  Any one have any suggestions?

A small update,besides cutting and shaping up some more deck beams(not taken any pics as they are well,beams  ) I have milled two more grating 'bases' but have also built up the first one.This has to be cut to size and the top shaped.I have given it a thin coat of polyurethane to stiffen it up a little and hopefully stop me loosing the crisp edges through chipping.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Now as promised,a picture walkthrough of the steps involved milling the 'grating' with backing spacer.
 
First a safepark position was created with the mill,a slot around 2mm to 3mm wide 5mm deep(the sheet is 6mm thick)All work is done with a 1mm milling cutter

 
Step two was to machine 1.5mm slots 1.5mm deep that will form the grouves for the battens to lay in.

 
Step three was to mill 1.5mm slots 5mm deep perpendicular to the batten slots.These are the gaps between the ledges.All slots had 1.5mm of material inbetween them i.e. the centre to centre distance is 3mm.

 
Finally the sections at each end were cut off to enable easy fitting of the overlength battens.Now also in this pic,because I was determined to have a go with this method to produce a finer pattern grating,is one with 1mm holes and 1mm ledges and battens.This was a complete success,not one chip to any of the nibs,although removing the sawdust was a very careful job with a soft brush.I think this is the way forward for Mordaunt's gratings although 1mm pear sheet for the battens will have to wait as my supplier of this is currently on their holidays


 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Gratings Mk 4 part 2
 
1.5mm wide battens were glued into the grouves and allowed to dry.I used alaphatic applied with a cocktail stick and excess was vigilently removed with a wet brush.When dry,the back was sanded off and the battens flushed off.I used a small disc in the Proxxon IBE to do this.Before final trimming and profiling I am going to apply two coats of heavily thinned matt poly to prevent any splintering.Mr Frolich does mention this in his book and seems like a good insurance policy.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ok then,hopefully a more positive post.After trying the table saw route and more failures(the little nibs kept breaking of)I think I have it sussed.When in doubt,consult a book.After studying Frolich's method,it made a lot of sense when working with the problematic pear.Just a couple of tweaks to use the mill instead of a tablesaw.
 
So here we have Gratings mark 4?Part one.
 
A solid block 6mm thick was machined to follow the same pattern as what Frolich does.Basically the ledges are machined in the top face leaving some material acting as a backer holding them the correct distance apart.When the battens are glued and set,the rear face is sanded away leaving a complete grating.The important factor was the order of doing things to prevent the 'nibs' from being chipped.The block was placed in the mill so that the grain followed the ledges i.e.athwartships.1.5mm wide by 1.5mm deep grouves were then cut the right distance apart for the run of the battens.4mm deep by 1.5mm grouves were then machined perpendicular to these.These are the gaps between ledges.I have changed the gap despite what I said earlier to 1.5mm.This then matches the contemporary model,so should not look out of place.This process leaves the ledges attached to a backer which holds everything true while the battens are fitted.The fact that the final cut runs inline with the grain results in crisp 'nibs' with not chipping.I will take photos of the machining process for the next post,I didn't bother while making this until I was sure it would work
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

In an attempt to address the poor picture quality above,I post a better quality example .Half of the nails fitted in one grating and trimmed flush(although the keen eyed will note I have one to redo as the copper was not inserted properly and dislodged whilst trimming).I have ordered some liver of sulphur gel,but I am sat on the fence as to whether to use it on these fixings.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Grating construction pt2
 
I next glued battens into the notches in the ledges.The height of the battens was oversize as the tops would be milled off.I used aliphatic,with a drop in each joint rather than using dilute PVA,
When set,the top face of the gratings was faced of again with the miller,but still above finished level.Whilst on the mill bench,I trimmed the ends of the battens flush with the end ledges.
 
I have made the decision to carry out representation of all fastenings with copper.This was my original intention at the start and I have decided to stick to it.So now to the grating nailing.I have started drilling two holes at each intersection 0.3mm diameter.Unfortunately this must be done manually with a pin vise.Due to the drill diameter,I was unable to find anything adequately concentric and small enough to hold the drill in the mill or rotary tool.Into the holes I am bonding with CA 0.27mm copper wire.I have made a start in the pics,but you can appreciate it may be a little while before part 3 .The top face still has around 0.4mm of material to be removed so this should eradicate the glue residue.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time for an update as the last one was several months ago   .
 
I have fitted the waterway and quickwork to the other internal hull face and completed the planking of the deck.I am currently completing  the exposed frame finishing pieces and working on the deck finish.I anticipate many coats of poly rubbed down every three coats.This gives a glass like surface as whilst I wish to see joints in the woodwork,I don't want to be able to feel them.
I feel these pictures may be a little on the red side.The pear is definitely brown with no hint of red,trouble is outdoor daylight pics are hard to come by as its dark when at home during the week and we have had some awful weather on the weekends
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel