NMBROOK

I have completed the basic 'inner' hull structure to the starboard side.As I am waiting for a timber delivery I thought I may as weel sort out the lower gunport linings.After studying Euromodels drawings and also pics of the builders model,it became apparent there were differences not just in the position of gunports but also the height  and shape of the top of the hull sides.Because I want to reflect the design of the NMM model I would have to address these areas.The most notable fact is there is a gunport right forward on the museum model that is missing on Euromodels representation.Looking at the design you would probably only get a musket in there,but it is there nevertheless.Also the stern galleries are very different and you will notice the gunports are close up to this.This basically meant starting from scratch and the bulk of the ports were moved aft slightly.An additional port would then fit in at the beakhead,but also the first and last port on the main gun deck are spaced differently.My revised design reflects this. 
There is a three page article in John Franklin's book covering the builder's model which gives the exact gunport sizes and wale scantlings and spacings.The Euromodel kit design shows upper wales that are too small in comparison.In order to get things to work the top edge of the hull has been increased in height to compensate for this.You will notice the additional pear laminations on the top edge,the bulkheads are too short to run to the top.The lower of the pear strips has been 'dowelled' with 0.7mm copper wire into every pear upright.This has resulted in an incredibly strong hull wall even before planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Work continues moving forward with the framing.When it came to sanding back the inside,unfortunately the 'binding' stringer that will be fitted at the top falls below the level of the temporary stringer on the outside.I measured the overall thickness including the outside temporary stringer on the thinned section on the stern using the verniers and used this dimension as my point of reference to sand down and profile the central section.Work now concentrates on completing the obechi infill.I have already started at the bow,this will need increasing in height at the sides as the hull edge flows down in an arc to meet the stem.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have started to fit the upper hull starting from the stern forwards.By notching back the temporary stringers,I am able to use plain pear strip overwidth,rather than trying to develop individual shapes for each of the frame sections.There is a not very clear photo showing this.Each piece was fitted with an obechi infill individually.By using the digital vernier to check running dimensions as I went along,this avoided any accumulative build up of error.The obechi was thickness sanded(using a sanding block   )to suit each location.There is variation in frame spacing due to working with the constraints of bulkhead positions,but it is so small,it unnoticable to the eye.I have set the obechi 2mm above the base of the upper trim(bottom of the ebony planking).This is to allow fine adjustment of the ends and then capping with 3mm boxwood.Doing it this way means no tool marks will be visible on the frames from shaping the ends of the obechi.This complete section has been trimmed 3mm below the cap rail so I can fit a square pear 'binding' stringer to tie everything together.I got this idea from Dr Mike and makes alot of sense to tie all these laminations together.It also provides a sanding guide for upper frame thickness.This will be pinned later into the top of some of the frames for additional strength.The length of this upper edge is overlong at present and steps down to a lower level,which will be cut back when the next section is complete.My technique just leaves a section to sand back when the temporary stringers are removed.I am considering replacing these afterwards,but bolting to the hull with M2 bolts as this area will be planked over.I am also considering using threaded rods as well to keep the upper hull the right distance apart as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nils
 
The infill is my own addition.The kit is open bulkheads and double planking.I am using single planking of scale thicknesses due to the exposed framing on the upper hull.The planking will be spliced at the waterline,Ebony above and boxwood below.The bulkheads would not provide the necessary support for this procedure with single planking .I would have probably infilled anyway as it is my own preference but also there a many complex curves to this hull and to ensure everything is faired properly this is easier in the long run.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ok something in a way of an update.The infill has been faired although the final touches will be applied after fitting the false deck and bow/stern blocks.The deck stringers have been fitted.The two scrap pieces screwed down provide temporary clamping due to the sheer on these stringers.Next job is finishing the deck edge supports from amidships to bow and the bow/stern filler pieces.Not much more to add that the pics don't explain.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
Kind Regards Nigel

Nigel,
thanks
richard

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Emmm that's 0.3mm Richard .. think you have the old decimal place in the wrong spot     I've done it myself 
 
All The Best,
 
Eamonn
 
Hope you don't mind me answering part of the question guys..

Nigel,
I am checking my understanding because I think I will experiment with this techniques.  
You bought 1.8mm bits with 1.5mm wire. You will use the rolling technique with the 1.5mm wire.  
Why did you allow the extra 3mm between the hole (1.8mm) and the wire (1.5mm)?
Also, what tool did you use to roll the nail heads?
 
Thanks,
Richard

update -
 
Deck & inner bulwarks planked & holes cut for the upper deck guns.Found a nice darker red paint to use on this build - not as "in your face"as the previous red I used. In looking at the pictures of the ship in the museum I noticed the stem side braces - can`t remember the proper name - seem to each be made from two pieces fastened together so I made mine that way. Didn`t like Corel`s design. I also didn`t like the design of the decorative surrounds for the upper gun ports so I went shopping for something maybe a little better. I found some decorative rings at a Michaels craft store which I thought looked a little better - they have a flowery design fairly similar to the real ones & they were the same size as the kit decorations so after a little filing & paint i think they will look ok. The kit was short 2 decorations anyway.
 
Mark
 

 

 

 

 

A small update - finished the hull nailing.Hard to see the small nails unless you are close up. Also started planking the decks. After planking the decks I am going to make up one gun carriage to determine where to position the round gun ports & cut them out before finishing the planking on the outer hull to try & minimize splintering.
 

 

 

 

 
I am planking the deck with different length planks in no certain pattern as the original is.
 
/Mark
 
 

Hi all,
 
got the first batch of milled wood for L'Artesien. Mostly planking material in walnut and swiss pear.
I was fiddling with the picture, but can't get the color right. It's more on the red side than the picture shows.
 
Tom

Hi Nigel,
 
thought the best way to answer your question is to show you the respective section of the plans.
As you can see, these are all sorts of windows and hatches.
 
best
Tom

Painting the cut ends will slow the drying a bit and also prevent checking.  

Pro:
Debarking will speed drying. 
You will discover any boring insects or remove any eggs if they have not hatched yet.
 
Con:
It is possible that it may dry too quickly and unevenly and check or split - I suspect this is mostly a problem with thick pieces of wood in log form.