NMBROOK

Thursday, September 18, 2014  
Today I went out to cut others bulkheads . . now only two aft are missing, and this step will be completed. 
As I mentioned yesterday, I've been working exclusively manually with a coping saw and the matter was of my complete satisfaction, especially for wood dust in less that I created . . 
For the rest, nothing new . . tomorrow I hope to finish up the missing bulkheads and start thinking about permanently fix them to the keel.
 
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Cheers, Jack.Aubrey.
 

Saturday, September 20, 2014  
Today I completed to cut the bulkheads, a small job because only few of them were missing. Below the images of the dry test that sounds pretty good, having no problems at all at this time. 
Then I did other tasks, little stuff, but I'll explain in detail in a future post. 
Regards, Jack.Aubrey.

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Yesterday I received another card ship model for my stash.  It is the IJN Fuso by Halinski in 1:200 scale.  Why the Fuso? I have lusted over this kit for a few years now after following a build log here in MSW 1.0 and since found several more on other sites.  The level of detail in all the build logs are incredible and I wasn’t sure if the kit came this way or was extra details added by the modeller.  After pouring over it again and again I can say the detail is in the kit.  There are very few items on the Halinski Fuso which could or would be improved with further detailing although more experianced people would probably disagree.
 
Compared to the GPM Bismarck I am working on the level of detail to be added is considerably more than the Bismarck which has a lot of items printed directly on to the paper and can be further detailed by the modeller if desired. The Halinski ship provides the detail or provides the info to include them such as step irons and ladders for example.  Later published models from Halinski definitely deserve the praise they receive on the detail of their kits which I will discuss later.
 
Until I came across card models the Imperial Japanese Navy ships were never on my radar but since then found them incredibly interesting.  I love the complicatedness of the Pagoda masts as multi-layered structures with access ways and ladders and passages really appeal (that’s why I am not a fan of modern boring slab sided vessels).
 
The distinctive tall pagoda masts, which were ridiculed by other nation’s navy’s as being top heavy and unstable were developed for the Japanese strategy of night time engagements.  They initially left the ship yards with traditional tripod masts but slowly got added to and climbed higher and higher with refits and upgrades over their life.  The theory being that the higher platforms would be able to spot the enemy at longer distances first with powerful search lights and get the jump on them. The pagoda’s absolutely bristles with binoculars and search lights.  Of course all this potential height advantage was lost due to the introduction of ship borne radar.
 
I love this photo of the Yamahiro, Fuso (middle) and Haruna for reasons I can’t explain.  The towering pagodas give a kind of impression of ‘on your steps’ ‘get ready’…I don’t know the image is so Japanese, like an old wood cut print or something with Manga & Anime imagery all bundled together…like I say hard to explain.

 
 
Okay enough waffling  , on with the kit.  Halinski’s reputation of being the Premium of card models is well deserved and include a few well thought out ideas.  The kit book is roughly A3 size with multiple pages of varying types and weights which is interesting.
 
The parts on the photo below are printed on to thin paper which of course for the deck needs to be stuck down to a thicker form.  The detail of printing is exceptional with a lot of detail although printed flat have a 3D look about them which I haven’t found on the Bismarck.  Some make you run your finger across the page to verify that is just printed.  There appears to be only very minimal weathering on some of the parts.

 
 
This next point I think is incredible and although it would add to the cost of the kit it would be minimal compared to the advantages and other publishers should take note.  Many of the parts pages are coloured on the reverse.  Simple but the benefits off not having to colour reverse sides on exposed services add to the finished quality of the model in my opinion.
 
The majority of parts are printed on what appears typical weight Bristol paper to me but the lower red hull panels appear to be printed on pretty thick paper. I can see both advantages and disadvantages to this.  Since no one mentions this in other builds then must be okay.

 
 
Another nice touch is the assembly drawings are printed on quality glossy paper and appear to be rendered computer images which very clearly show how things are assembled. The shading and rendering shows parts relationships very clearly compared to line drawings.  A couple of pictures showing this below.
 


 
 
Now the details (and this can be seen in the assembly drawings above) the amount of ‘iron work’ to be made is awesome.  There is a full A3ish page crammed with all the rails, braces, pipes, foot and hand holds etc necessary to fully detail the ship.  In comparison the Bismarck has a few of jack staffs shown and the rest could be done with generic photo etch as no details are given.  The Fuso wins hands down on this alone as these are the details which although tiny are many and really brings the structures to life.
 
As my philosophy is now to get laser cut forms where available also applies to the Fuso.  There are 15 sheets of laser cut details and as can be expected the majority of these are for the hull.  Although the hull is very roughly the same size as the Bismarck I would say the mount of forms used to build up the Fuso hull up is at least 50% more.  I have no doubt the laser cut forms will fit perfectly.  I have used others for Bismarck and a vehicle and they always seem to fit right.  Being Halinski I have no concerns there.

 
 
Problems/Issues: Major one, I can’t start it  .  I physically don’t have the space with the Bismarck going as well so will put it away for the time being and bring out to pour over now and then, sad as that may seems  .
 
Finally cost; not a great deal more than Bismarck in fact the forms were the same.  With conversion costs it worked out around to A$80 for the kit and A$50 for the laser cut forms.  Now the kicker, shipping from Poland to Australia was around the A$80 mark.  It was bought directly from Halinski and took around 11 days door to door.  Pretty good as the other 2 Polish places I buy from are usually bang on 14 days every time.
 
Cheers
Slog
 
 

Hi Soren
Much depends on what scale you are working to.The neatest way is to glue thin black paper to one edge and end of each plank,however obviously depending on the paper thickness,it can look too much on the smaller scales.For the smaller scales,pencil,or mixing a little black ink with the glue can be used.The result from the ink method is dependent on the absorbency of the timber so experimentation is advised.A permanent marker can be used but again do a trial run to check it doesn't bleed too much into the wood.I think in all cases making a little 'dummy' section of deck with the same timber as the model is the best way.You can make a sample of each and see what you prefer.Apply what ever finish you will be using,I use the pencil method and after sanding you can't see it,however after applying the poly I use,the appearance changes dramatically.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I'm quite agree with Nigel.
And you have already begun semi-scratch building.
I'm sure that you are sure of your abilities to overcome scratch building.
The issue is the time, the patience and the endurance for you.
The scratch wants much more time...
And it's important to be able to enjoy all the journey as well as to reach the destination...

Thank you Michael
Like Buck,I can appreciate the frustration that this build has caused in the past.However I think you can draw from the experience in that you have learned that you enjoy another pastime.That of historical research.It isn't every builders 'cup of tea' but it can be as enjoyable as the build itself if you are that way inclined.
Besides your next project you have stashed ,the only advise I could offer looking into the future is to seriously consider scratchbuilding.I think this way you can enjoy the research and start from a blank sheet of paper with having to redo someone's inaccurate kit design.You certainly shouldn't have any reservations about your ability,I am confident you would excel with whatever vessel took your fancy.
Enough waffle from me   I look forward to seeing more updates of your Wasa
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel,
 
I appreciate your thoughts, yes the research bit certainly makes things more interesting. Even along with all of those inherent resulting frustrations it creates The learning bit is inspiring I enjoy this very much. Translating it into a kit build is the conundrum. (:-)
 
Though the research part sort of allows me to share in the thoughts from past lives, and how those people created to the best of their abilities. A nice facet of this hobby.
 
Scratch-building is a huge leap up (for me) . And certainly makes research the leading edge of a project, one that becomes very absorbing as well. Thanks for your confidence in my potential abilities. Presently I don't have that level of comfort. Your RW, for example is breathtaking---I'm not even on the same planet as you (:-) Though my next project will, just after opening the box, benefit from all that I have learned here at MSW from so many artists. Nigel you have always been so kind with your thoughtful comments, a heartfelt THANKS...
 
I am putting my current frustrations on the back burner and will continue with this Vasa, a build that, accuracy frustrations aside, am really enjoying. Again thank so much for being a kind follower, your esteemed mate....
 
Michael
 
Michael

Excellent work mate and some fabulous pictures I agree,the rigging will make an even bigger impact to an already stunning model.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Michael
Like Buck,I can appreciate the frustration that this build has caused in the past.However I think you can draw from the experience in that you have learned that you enjoy another pastime.That of historical research.It isn't every builders 'cup of tea' but it can be as enjoyable as the build itself if you are that way inclined.
Besides your next project you have stashed ,the only advise I could offer looking into the future is to seriously consider scratchbuilding.I think this way you can enjoy the research and start from a blank sheet of paper with having to redo someone's inaccurate kit design.You certainly shouldn't have any reservations about your ability,I am confident you would excel with whatever vessel took your fancy.
Enough waffle from me   I look forward to seeing more updates of your Wasa
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

That looks spot on Michael Like Ferit says,sometimes we can't see the wood for the trees when we get wrapped up making these details.Looking at your recent pics reminds me of the great amount of work you have put into your model and what a joy and privilege it has been to follow your journey.I look forward to continue following along with the rigging and masting
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Excellent work mate and some fabulous pictures I agree,the rigging will make an even bigger impact to an already stunning model.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey all! Here are some pictures of the shrouds:
 

 

 

 
Quite enjoyable stage of the build, and changes the look of the model alot, at least in my eyes.
 
The ratlines will be testing my nerves though Im sure...
 
 
/Matti
 
 

I suggest you give this company a call.They specialise in partworks that have been discontinued.They don't list the Endeavour but it must be worth a go,even if they haven't got the one you want,they might know where you would find it.Another option is Ebay,many issues come up for sale on there.
 
http://www.partworks.co.uk/index.html
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Fabulous to see the first build on here to use Dr Mike's hull construction technique. After watching the DVD,I did wonder whether Dr Mike had these boards made for him or laminated them himself.Standard furniture boards are full of knots,the boards he used were completely knot free.I think it would be advisable to apply knotting solution to these to prevent them shrinking.I think the the main advantages for this technique,especially as he sells his models,is that it is both fast and accurate.The saving in man hours greatly outweighs the wasted material.He also builds two identical models in tandem to offset additional draughting time.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi all,
 
here we have port and starboard, ready for the gunports to be marked and cut.
 
regards
Tom

Hi Bob,
 
Yes, it is new for me as well. I saw it on an australian shipmodelling DVD. This film has been shot in Russia, in the workshop of one of the most famous russian ship modellers, called Dr. Mike.
Don't think it's his real name. He is a heart surgeon and a real ship modelling buff.
This method is interesting and seems to be straight forward.
I have finished the thwo halfs. Pictures will come in the next days.
I am not yet convinced it is the best way of building a hull, because the disadvantage is, you produce a hell of a lot of waist wood, that you can't really use otherwise. Not even for the barbeque, because these boards you buy in the DIY are made from strips and contain a lot of glue. Sure not the healthiest things to burn.
 
best regards
Tom

I have not seen this method of building, it looks interesting.
 
Bob

the first half Setup for final outside shaping.

after cutting the Frames each one is reinforced at the top edge in order to Support sanding. All Frames are screwed to the building board.

ok, done!
 
I have cut all the fames. The next steps are sanding inside and outside. Then mark and cut the gunports. After that, the starboard and port halfs are joined together.
After that I will build the framing for the Stern.
 
Tom
 

Hi all,
 
more frame cutting. I am sandwiching two pieces of wood using toothpicks. This way i am cutting the starboard and port sides of the frame in one go.
The two pieces are dowelled together, the pick protrusions cut and then it's the jigsaws turn.
 

Hi,
 
tracing, cutting, tracing cutting... it gets a bit tedious after a while. I am making progress with the frames, but decided to entertein myself with something more interesting for a while.
 
I've build one of the galleys. I made the base shape from a piece of scrap wood, sanded for a good smoothness. Then this block has been covered with self-adhessive copper foil. The same stuff you use for coppering a hull.
The fittings are made from brass and I carved the stand from basswood.
 
Tom

Just to let you know, I have started the building process.
 
The 2 pictures give you a quick peek into my workshop and the early building state of the hull.
It is the first time that I am working with this techniqe of building two halfs, joining them after the work on the two sides has been finished.
 
My plan is to give both sides their final shape by sanding. Because I am always sandwiching two pieces of wood before sawing, the buildup of the second half will be much quicker than the first half.
Once the shaping is completed, I am planning to mark and cut the gun ports. Then determine the decklines.
The last step then is to marry the two halfs before planking and keel-joining starts.
Lets see how it goes.
 
 
 

Hi all,
 
I am about to start the French 64 Canon ship L'Artesien. I will build this ship pararell to Le Rivoli, as I want to have the opportunity to change between Projects, when I am stuck with one, or change between the two according to what's on my mind.
 
I was thinking about how to approach these two projects. It was clear to me that I didn't want to build open frame models. I do like the look, but I am scared about the time consumption, because I love to have a perspective on when projects come to a successful end.
 
Having said that, there was still to decide which route to go. In the end I think it will be a mixture of the russian bulkhead method and my own ideas. See how it goes.
 
L'Artesien will be fully rigged with most her sails set. More or less like the model shown in the Musee de la Marine., Paris.
I will post updates and let you know how I am getting on.
 

Bandsaw blades are resistance welded together,I am a coded welder and trust me when I say that Resistance welding is miles apart from MIG(metal inert gas) welding that you are referring to.I wouldn't attempt to rejoin a broken blade with a MIG welder.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel