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Soren

Deck planking - simulation of caulking

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Hi,

 

I'm about to start my next build and need some advice regarding deck planking. How have you made simulated caulking? On my current build I usted a thin tread however seems a bit 'over the top''.

 

Seen several buildlogs Where the caulking Washington simulated with a pencil. Any good suggestions are most welcome

 

Regards

Soren

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I used a number two pencil sharpened to a very sharp point. I sharpened the pencil between each row to make the nails and seams as tight as possible. It turned out well for my level of building skills (second build).  Some of the very advanced builders go to great lengths with deck planks.

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I also use a lead pencil.  And instead of sanding the deck I would take either a single edged razor blade or a utility knife blade and scrape the deck smooth.  Scraping shaves the wood leaving a smooth and polished look.  Sanding might tear the grain.

David B

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Thanks a lot for the feedback. Think I will see how pencil works out. The model is panarts Royal caroline so Think the scale Would suite this method quite well

 

Soren

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i have used a couple different ways.  I have used a pencil, an archive pen, an artists marker and ebony wood putty.

 

I liked the putty - but it is a major pain to work with and the returns on the work invested wasn't that spectacular.

The pencil worked okay, but I really liked the archive pen!

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Hi Adam,

 

Thanks for your comment. Been considering a permanent marker or archive pen but a bit worried about the bleeding into the wood. I like a clean look with straight lines (why I decided to go with the treat on my current build). I will make some test samples and post the results here.

 

//Soren

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In my scale it is impossible ( for me) and not in real ship.

 

Somewhere ( maybe in MSW ) I had seen very interesting technique, but if it fits to your scale

 

Drill little holes for "nails", bye thinnest possible black plastic guitar string ( or black, also thinnest possible, fishing line), cut little pieces, glue them in holes, and when glue dry, sand deck. Effects are marvelous

 

Do some tests.

 

Also try BEFORE planking to make planks, drill holes, paint them ( not whole plank) with thin acrylic, and after drying, sand to clear wood. Painted holes stay

 

In picture above you can see "weathering" effect of sanded acrylic paint on veneer. Try to imagine your holes painted and sanded

 

post-4738-0-11109000-1392279228.jpg

Edited by Nenad M

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I have a question about the pencil option. Do you use the pencil along the deck lines after the deck is built, or do you use the pencil scraped along the edge of the plank before attaching it to the deck?

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I have a question about the pencil option. Do you use the pencil along the deck lines after the deck is built, or do you use the pencil scraped along the edge of the plank before attaching it to the deck?

I would use a no2 pencil and rub it along the edge of the plank on one side. After gluing the plank the graphite would mix with the glue. Once everything was done i would then use a homemade scraper and scrape the deck. This method will shave the deck smooth and help to burnish and polish it. A scraper can be made from almost anything,

David B

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I use a number 2 pencil rubbed along the edge of the planks before they are installed. I place a penciled edge against a plain edge and the result is a thin line to represent caulking. It is not overdone, and has a decent scale appearance. You can see it in my current project where I just recently completed the deck planking.

 

Russ

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In my scale it is impossible ( for me) and not in real ship.

 

Somewhere ( maybe in MSW ) I had seen very interesting technique, but if it fits to your scale

 

Drill little holes for "nails", bye thinnest possible black plastic guitar string ( or black, also thinnest possible, fishing line), cut little pieces, glue them in holes, and when glue dry, sand deck. Effects are marvelous

 

Do some tests.

 

Also try BEFORE planking to make planks, drill holes, paint them ( not whole plank) with thin acrylic, and after drying, sand to clear wood. Painted holes stay

 

In picture above you can see "weathering" effect of sanded acrylic paint on veneer. Try to imagine your holes painted and sanded

 

attachicon.gifpost-4738-0-96586300-1390077148_thumb.jpg

I once used bristles (sp?) from a broom to simulate treenails for my Endeavour

post-975-0-55054900-1392866735_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-70442700-1392866753_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-34897900-1392866777_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-25478900-1392866798_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ulises Victoria

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I once used bristles (sp?) from a broom to simulate treenails for my Endeavour

 

It is just what I mean and had seen !!!

 

Thanks

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Hi,

 

I'm about to start my next build and need some advice regarding deck planking. How have you made simulated caulking? On my current build I usted a thin tread however seems a bit 'over the top''.

 

Seen several buildlogs Where the caulking Washington simulated with a pencil. Any good suggestions are most welcome

 

Regards

Soren

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I am new to this wood model ship building however I played with a few planke to see what I liked best. My ship is 24" long so what i did is I used a paint sitck (dark brown) first I snaded and sealed the top of the plank to stop some blead then I coated the edges all the way around two times to build up the paint. When butted together it looks great !! for bigger ships do more coats. as far as the nail holes I have played with this as well. The sides of my ship are dark so what I'm doing is drilling a very small hole then using Durams wood putty to fill the holes. Afrer sanding the holes are lighter and can be seen very well. The deck on the other hand is light so I think I will again drill the little holes and mix the Durams with a little dark brown paint instaed of water and see how that  goes ??  Although the guy who said to use black fishing line may be an option ?

Good Luck

Brad

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I use a black Kuretake Zig Brushable Colour Graduation Twin Brush Tip Marker Pen. It has a dark black end and a slightly lighter more charcoal coloured black on the other, it doesn't bleed into the grain and doesn't get ruined by danish oil finish either.

 

For me it has been the best solution for caulking, quick and easy.

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I have tried using black thread. The first impression is that they look great. Then tried sanding and of course the tread tears and fluffs up - horrible, start again. So I have alays stuck to a black permanant marker (after testing)

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Nothing wrong with that.so long as it does not smear or leak you are set

David B

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Here's my deck that I used a straight edge to cut the cross cuts and then a number two pencil to simulate caulk and nails. I made sure the pencil point was always sharp to set the graphite deep so it will never smear.

post-4214-0-93583600-1401292868_thumb.jpg

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Yes Nigel, I have been following your Mordaunt build log and I was impressed by your planking. If you could post a tutorial, I would be really grateful. 

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I have seen very some incredible solutions here for caulking a deck. Not sure whether it may have been mentioned but would a fairly good size kit rope inked with black ink and filling into seams as is done on real life older ships work??? I am considering this for my Xebec that I have finally gotten back to work on. Please if someone has tried this arduous procedure completed let us know....I suspect it may take some time but the effects to me anyway would seem to appear quite realistic.

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John,

I've seen it done.  Use the thinnest thread you can find, even thinner than the kit rope.  Sanding and/scraping does become issue however as it tends to fuzz the thread. 

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Consider the scale ,i sometimes wonder if anything above 1:75 needs anything  .My experience is limited but have used the pencil method a couple otf times with reasonable success , Have never tried thread as most reports i read it,s not always satisfactory .Good luck in your choise !!!

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I have seen very some incredible solutions here for caulking a deck. Not sure whether it may have been mentioned but would a fairly good size kit rope inked with black ink and filling into seams as is done on real life older ships work??? I am considering this for my Xebec that I have finally gotten back to work on. Please if someone has tried this arduous procedure completed let us know....I suspect it may take some time but the effects to me anyway would seem to appear quite realistic.

I personally wouldn't go that route. Even if that's the closest possible to the real thing, I don't think it would be feasible on a scale model. What scale is your Xebec? My opinion is the inking of the sides of the planks is enough.

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Scale on the Xebec is 1:60....I have read all comments and feel your suggestions are very worthy. I really like the broom idea as well and happen to have black bristles. One more question though for simulated caulking...Pyrography System at a low temperature??? Just an idea but I will probaly do the sharp pencil as it seems a bit easier, less messy,and maintains a realistic result from what I have seen.....thanks a bunch friends...

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