NMBROOK

Hello Dear Friends,
thank you very much for your comments, I appreciate them a lot.
The bow section of the French corvette was completed.
Here you can see the bow, with the now mounted equipment parts.
You can see also the figurehead in some pics.

 

 

 

 
The small seawater pump on the bow was, among other things for the hygiene of the crew on board.
See the LINK.

 

Hello,
 
thank you for the kind comments.
Today I will show you some pictures to making the compass of the French corvette.
I hope you like them.

 

 

Hello,
thank you for your comments, Gyula.
 
There are some pictures illustrating the macking of guns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
So thats it for now, hope you like them.
 

Hello dear friends,
I appreciate your nice comments and thank you very much for your nice words.
Today I will explain the process for preparing grids for the skylights.
Therefore please note the following pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello,
the La Créole had a total of 6 light swivel guns, which were probably intended for close combat.
4 of them were in the front and 2 mounted in the rear.
 
The swivel guns are made ​​of brass.
Here I show you the components before assembly.

 

 

 
Other pictures show the finished swivel guns.

 

 

 
And in the end a picture from the forecastle with swivel guns mounted.

 
 

Hello,
here I will show you now, how the figure mounted on galion looks.

 

 

Hello,
I reworked the face of something figurehead again. Hopefully it's getting better.

 

Hello,
today I'll show some pictures of the figurehead of the la creole.
I used wood as boxwood. This timber is ideal for this.
The images explains the attempt to carve the female figure.
Here is the result.
The figure is not yet finished. To be continued ...
 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Hello dear friends,
 
here I show you pictures of manufacture of the steering wheel.
I hope that it is interesting for you.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Goodbye, see you soon.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello,
to build the capstan, was another challenge.
The first attempt was unsuccessful. So I started a second attempt.
The following figures show the manufacturing process.
  
 
    
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
     
 

 
 
 
Be continued ...

 

Hello,
thank you for your nice comments.
Here are some more anchor pictures.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The anchors are made of brass.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
to be continued ...
 
 

Before I start my build log some information about the real La Créole and
the data from which my model will build.
 
The La Créole was a 24-gun corvette of the French Navy. The corvette
carried 4 x 18 pdr guns and 20 x 30 pdr carronades.
Her plans were drawn by P. M. Leroux in 1827. She was launched in Cherbourg in
May 1829. The ship took part in the French invasion of Mexico in 1838, and most
notably in the Bombardment of San Juan de Ulloa before French troops disembarked and captured the city of Veracruz.

There is a fine shipyard model on display at the Musée national de la Marine in Paris which is shown by many photos in the book of Jean Boudriot (in French). 
 
I use the following sources for building my model of the corvette:
Jean Boudriot - Historique de la corvette 1650-1850: La
Créole, 1827
 
 
Now the images of beginning:
 
 
 
To be continued...
 
Best regards
Johann
 
 
 
 
 
 

Main Deck Bulkhead (Aft)
 
There was both an aft and a forward bulkhead built on the Main Deck. The interesting thing here is that it was usual practice in Dutch ship-building during the seventeeth century to apply horizontal clinker cladding over the bulkhead surfaces. This style had no consequences in European waters but in the moist tropics, it easily led to wood rot. So whether the builder chooses to do this or be conventional with vertical strips is their choice. I went with the former style.

 
The drawings had to be carefully measured to obtain the correct slope on the bulkhead because that influenced the length of the over-lying planks of the Quarter Deck. I was a little concerned that the supplied plywood piece for this bulkhead was not quite wide enough (but that was being super-fussy) so another piece of plywood was glued onto the forward side of that piece as well as a piece of first planking being glued on the top edge. This doubling up of the bulkhead actually worked to my advantage when cutting out for the doors (see further down). The extra height allowed for the tapering of the top & bottom edges due to the sloping bulkhead.

One piece of thin plywood approx. 12 x 84 mm. was laminated with 0.5 mm. scrap planking strips, cut into five over-sized doors and then shaped to size. Laminating one long strip made the process so much easier. The doors without edging were 11 x 15 mm. - a little shorter than shown in the drawings but I needed to leave room underneath since the bottom edge of the doorway would have been above the deck surface. To the door edges were added strips made from scrap 0.5 x 3 mm.

At this stage, clinker planking had been started to establish a base line for the doors. Rather than fuss around with short pieces of planking around the door openings, I decided on full planking and then cutting out the doors. Having said that, it seems not uncommon for builders to just add the doors over the surface of the bulkhead !
 
Although the original instructions suggested using 1 x 3 mm. timber for the bulkhead planking, I would have been much better off using the 1 x 4 mm. second planking timber - both for appearance and ease of cutting through. Hindsight is a wonderful thing !!!!
 
A doorway recess was cut into the top layer of plywood.

With this space underneath, the cutting out of the actual doorway through the clinker planking proved to be a very simple exercise. When the doors were finally fixed in position, these spaces were re-filled with some short pieces of first planking timber. Certainly that was extra work but it seemed worthwhile.

Bulwark Approximate Outline
Maybe this is stating the obvious but I felt it worthwhile to post this little step. The line of the upper bulwark along the ship has got me into strife before so I used the following little technique and it worked a treat.
Firstly I drilled a small hole (approx.0.75 mm but that is not significant) through the planking immediately above each frame - before the contouring arms were snapped off.

 
Then an outline of the upper edge was made on some ‘tracing’ paper with a soft graphite pencil and also copied onto the back surface of that paper. Using the holes as an guide, the paper was aligned over the whole surface and the outline traced onto the hull surface by a bit of careful rubbing over the pencil line

The following photo compares the two sides - before and after !

 
 

Saturday, September 6, 2014
Yesterday I assembled the three elements that make up the false keel. To do this I glued the three pieces by placing them over a glass plate I previously described and I let dry for a few hours under the weight of two other glass plates. Then I glued the plywood reinforcements to be applied on both sides of the joint, pressing them with clamps. Then I prepared the side structure for the hollows for the masts, so that they are already usable right now and perfectly aligned to the keel. 
 
The cut out for the foremast is vertical, while that for the mainmast is tilted slightly towards the stern. 
Once assembled these last two items, I begun to prepare the building slip assembly, which will accompany this model from now until I will start to apply the planks on the quickwork. Until then, its main purpose will be to hold the keel aligned during the installation of the bulkheads, the reinforcements for the hull structure, the upper deck and the external planking to the waterline: in short, probably for a few months. 
Two views of the keel. .
 
01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090952_zps5a275315.jpg

 
02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090953_zps0f4065c1.jpg

 
A few scattered pieces, more than anything else to become familiar with the scrollsaw. . not to be used on the model because the thickness is not right.
 
03 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090951_zps6e0caaf0.jpg

 
And finally the building slip, finished and waiting for the glue to dry completely . . I've reused the base I built for the 12 Apostles, while I redid the vertical supports.
 
04 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090954_zps427eab35.jpg

 
See you tomorrow, Jack.

Thanks so much Augie, Rich, Sjors, Nils, Nigel and the "likes".
 
I may just give it a try Nigel.
 
Bob

Well, I finally had to bite the bullet and start the work on the head. I made and installed the hair and scroll brackets, the upper and lower cheeks and the bolsters. These were all made from boxwood using a sheet of drawings from Sam as templates. Given my lack of success in the past scribing molding lines on small scale pieces, I chose, as I've done on other models to create the moldings by using laminated parts with rounded edges. The bracket pieces were bent to shape before laminating. 
 
I also drilled the holes for the mainstay collar in the gammoning knee and for the bobstays in the stem.
 
Next up will be the rails and head  timbers. As a note for the future, I tried to fit the kit casting for the figurehead, but decided that it is unacceptably too large ( and not very good). I'm now unsure what I'm going to do about a figurehead. My choices would seem to be a wood carving or using Sculpey, neither of which I've ever done. Sam had once offered to do a resin casting, but I've been unable to reach him by PM or e-mail. Does anyone know if he is alright?
 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Good to hear you are back 'at it' mate   Life is getting in the way for me as well at the moment,not spending half as much time in the workshop and on here as I would like at the moment
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey guys, I'm really sorry for not responding properly lately! Life's been hectic and to make a long story short I haven't had the energy to put into the Vasa model. It's nothing bad happening, just that there's been a lot of other everyday things to focus on. I can't build without energy and passion, so it had to wait; I've had the itch to continue all along though, and now it's time to do that.
 
I'm now planning for the channel construction for the main mast. Here's reference I took earlier:
 



 
Off topic: here's a picture showing how wonky these ships were. I love that look. 
 

 
 
Now to continue on those channels.
 
 
/Matti
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sorry Ferit  
No updates on anything at the minute   Busy with work and rebuilding my bike with a new frameset.She is wrapped up nice and cosy awaiting my return
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel,
 
Thanks SO much your comments are always so dear.
 
Michael

This is a very good question Rob.Looking at Goodwin's book and pics of the builders model of Egmont(one of the few Navy board models with accurate framing),I am inclined to say that they follow the axis of the cant frames.Do remember though that the ports will appear shorter in the sheer plan as this is a side view,the hull is curving away from you.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This is a very good question Rob.Looking at Goodwin's book and pics of the builders model of Egmont(one of the few Navy board models with accurate framing),I am inclined to say that they follow the axis of the cant frames.Do remember though that the ports will appear shorter in the sheer plan as this is a side view,the hull is curving away from you.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This is a very good question Rob.Looking at Goodwin's book and pics of the builders model of Egmont(one of the few Navy board models with accurate framing),I am inclined to say that they follow the axis of the cant frames.Do remember though that the ports will appear shorter in the sheer plan as this is a side view,the hull is curving away from you.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel