NMBROOK

Hi Nigel,
 
Thanks for the kind words, they mean a lot coming from you.  Your work is truly amazing.  
 
I am a better photographer than I am a model builder but I am working on it.  This website is the best thing to happen to the hobby.  Having access to the resources here as well as be able to learn from and be inspired by the artisans here is a real gift.  Thanks for looking in and I am happy that you enjoyed the log and my photographs.  

Thanks Slog, I found this a short time ago and stored it specifically...  an interesting looking boat !
 
I'll be away later for most of the afternoon, so please be patient in awaiting a reply (if it takes that long that is.. I've probably gone and picked one of the most well known ships in existence where everyone on MSW, except me, has a photo of her on their wall..   )
 
Stay Well Folks
 
Eamonn

Thanks Jason,
 
I feel guilty as my last three correct answers were obtained thanks to Jan and David providing clues to point me in the right direction.  Apologies gentlemen.
 
I am going to stick with pre-dreadnoughts but I am guessing my next picture is probably one of the easiest in the game so far as it is so distintive but just had to post it.  This has to be one of the most incredible looking warships ever! It looks awesome; definitely would be on my bucket list of must builds if it was available. (and 4 others but not the same class  )
 

Work is slowly progressing on the port side.As I have proved everything on the starboard side,this acts as a template for the port side.This has enabled me to fit the gunport frames earlier in the process to make it easier to shape the internal profile.The handy thing with the gunport design is that tweaks are easy.Some of the holes for the linings have been adjusted and boxwood veneer shims used to ensure perfect alignment when sighting down the side of the hull.I have also been able to fit the lower counter side timber earlier than before.The rather random looking pear blocks at the bow are for shaping to match the other side.The are placed to ensure adequate material to carve the shape out of.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a small but nevertheless important update.I am currently working on the other side but doing a little multitasking   In my last timber delivery,I had ordered some 6x4mm pear strip to see how successful it would be to bend the deck beams as apposed to cutting them.As a mentioned before these will penetrate the sides of the inner hull 'shell' and in effect be solidly anchored at the ends.I made a simple jig up to clamp the thoroughly soaked Pear strip in(tip here,soak until the pear no longer wants to float).I deliberately made the jig for double the camber to allow for some springback.Not only this but it is better to overbend and straighten rather than underbend.The radius was calculated using the formula shown in the pic.I thought i would include this as to my knowledge it hasn't been posted before.I clamped two strips in the jig at the same time on top of one another,Any more and it would start to make too big a difference to the radius.The question of whether these beams would be scarphed in the middle is in abeyance and I have posted another thread regarding this.Even if these will be scarphed,I thought it necessary to put the radius in before tapering as the bending properties would not be consistent with a tampered section. 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have now fitted all the upper gunport cills.These have been faired off flush inside and out.The counter side timber has also been fitted,but the lower hull is still to shape at a later date.There is quite a bit of difference between kit and builders model in this area.Franklin states in his book that the stern balcony actually has a grated deck.The carvings below the balcony act as knees to support this deck and to a lesser extent the stern structure.This is not easily visible in pictures but after enlarging the NMM pics as much as possible it became clear how this construction worked.
This is a far as I am taking this side for now,work will commence on the port side.There a still some small round gunports to create for the poopdeck,but I am not confident to the actual finished level of this deck at the moment so they will be added a little later.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have completed the basic 'inner' hull structure to the starboard side.As I am waiting for a timber delivery I thought I may as weel sort out the lower gunport linings.After studying Euromodels drawings and also pics of the builders model,it became apparent there were differences not just in the position of gunports but also the height  and shape of the top of the hull sides.Because I want to reflect the design of the NMM model I would have to address these areas.The most notable fact is there is a gunport right forward on the museum model that is missing on Euromodels representation.Looking at the design you would probably only get a musket in there,but it is there nevertheless.Also the stern galleries are very different and you will notice the gunports are close up to this.This basically meant starting from scratch and the bulk of the ports were moved aft slightly.An additional port would then fit in at the beakhead,but also the first and last port on the main gun deck are spaced differently.My revised design reflects this. 
There is a three page article in John Franklin's book covering the builder's model which gives the exact gunport sizes and wale scantlings and spacings.The Euromodel kit design shows upper wales that are too small in comparison.In order to get things to work the top edge of the hull has been increased in height to compensate for this.You will notice the additional pear laminations on the top edge,the bulkheads are too short to run to the top.The lower of the pear strips has been 'dowelled' with 0.7mm copper wire into every pear upright.This has resulted in an incredibly strong hull wall even before planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Not a very exciting update today,however my experiment has been a success.I have been debating about caulking techniques and despite using a pencil for longer than I care to mention,it never looks as good as the black paper route.However after watching Dr Mike's dvd explaining that black paper prevents proper glue bond strength,himself using cheap white paper and dying it black,I wanted to find an alternative with a bit less faff Having to visit town today for other reasons  I did stumble upon black tissue paper.I thought this would still allow proper penetration of the glue,but would it be easy to work with?I adopted worse case scenario for the test and cut some planks roughly(not even changing to a fine blade )on the table saw.Smearing one edge of these with alaphatic and placing them on the tissue edge on.Having left to dry for a hour(would really leave overnight in practice) and then cutting the tissue with a new scalpel blade close on the underside and a little above the face side,separated the planks.These were then glued to a sheet of ply.Two hours later this was scraped and sanded back.Again I would leave overnight but I was being deliberately rough for the trial.Anyway complete success.No issue with the tissue paper wanting to drag out of the joints as it was fully impregnated with glue and razor sharp black(not greyish you get with the pencil) lines.The only imperfections are from the rough edges of the planks.In reality these would be smooth .I wanted to crack this dilemma as this technique will be used on the whole build which includes the scarph joints in the keel and the hull planking so strength is important.A couple of pics but the difference between this and pencil isn't truly conveyed with my iphone camera.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looking good mate For me,I would consider another run each side of maple,then the beech plank.The origins of the 'go faster stripe' on model decks is related to the two king planks used either side of the hatchways (there is another name for them but it evades me as I write this)which were made of oak,whereas the deck planking quite possibly would be fir.The difference in colour on the model is indicative of the two different timbers on the real vessel.In reality these planks would run either side of the hatches and would not be split at an opening.If you wanted to add another feature,you can incorporate hooked scarph joints in them.
Oh and unless the deck planks need to be much longer than a full plank,no butt joints are normally used
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After having a thoroughly enjoyable read through your log,I have to say wonderful work Jack!! I have two model requests for my wife to fulfill one day,Mary Rose and a Viking ship,this kit looks like a very nice way to meet the later.Having also looked at your website,I have to say some of the pictures are positively awe inspiring,outstanding!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Jason.. there seems to be a 'hole' in my Internet Search Engine where I can find little about the Swedish Navy  (might explain my total inability to find the boat!    ) With your new info I did manage to find Altair and a list of others in the class which included an Argo !!
Brilliant 'Name the Ship question mate.. Just wait till it's my turn again...
 
E

Absolutely stunning Michael!!!!!!!!They are a model in there own right!Excellent work.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.you can just put the small parts in a bowl of water and stir to rinse them off

Worry not Jason we are still on the case (was even discussing it over on Ballahoo !)
 
E
 
Is that Tumbleweed I see blowing past ...

Sorry Jason,don't get much time online Monday to Friday I do believe Eamonn has checked for an Irish connection already   .I may well commence my search tomorrow night,that is of course unless someone finds the answer
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I checked out a bunch of Customs Vessels earlier and Inshore/Harbour Patrol Vessels,  some similar looking things but nothing identical.. I even tried Irish Customs Vessels in case he was pulling a fast one on me  the nearest vessel I could find was South African ! was surprised that I didn't find identical looking boats as I imagined they would be virtually off a Production Line.. Oh Well
 
Catch You Later Bud
 
E

TBH,I wouldn't know where to start,he has picked a good un   Could possibly be a customs vessel,but as to what nation      .I don't get much chance to scour the net at the moment other than weekends,so haven't 'attacked it with all guns blazing'  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looking good mate   Yes the hooked scarphs can be a bit of a challenge.Like you say,have another go on the next vessel of the Arklow fleet
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi All..
 
Another Photo Update..   all go in the Ballahoo camp eh?
 
I gave the Hook Scarf a few go's with limited success (I'm afraid my measurements aren't up to scratch Nigel, I'll try harder next build !  ) some of them can be seen on the deck, in fact all of them are on the deck (being used as scrap timber to keep the deck planking tight  ) have to say they looked rather well right up to the point where I put them together...  so I just used a regular Scarf instead, never thought I'd be relieved to be doing a plain scarf join!!   
I've noticed about 1mm of asymmetry creeping into the deck planking which I'll address tomorrow by running a slightly narrower plank on one side.. this is rather annoying but I have come to expect it and will deal with it easily enough (Hopefully that is)
 
Ok tis Photo Time..
 
All The best Folks
 
Eamonn

Mmmm I was kinda in the vicinity,first googled Arklow buoy tenders       and discovered the Irish lights bit,but then had to go out     .Eamonn you are going to have to stray from your native land with your choice of posting,I think we may have sussed your stratergy        
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Mmmm I was kinda in the vicinity,first googled Arklow buoy tenders       and discovered the Irish lights bit,but then had to go out     .Eamonn you are going to have to stray from your native land with your choice of posting,I think we may have sussed your stratergy        
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks BE as always, and all the 'likers' - means a lot to have so many excellent modelers looking in.
 
Mizzen topmast stays have had me thinking for a while - it just doesn't seem to make sense to have standing rigging attached at both ends with no method of adjustment.  I followed a general principle seen elsewhere and made the stay up with a loop to go around the hounds (not served around the hoop as its only 0.5mm line - need to draw a line somewhere, and seems tricky at this thickness).  At the other end, I inserted a bullseye (sourced from Bluejacket) and attempted to simulate a splice.  This was lashed to a ringbolt on the maintop as per plans - this would allow adjustment.  I went with thin black line for the lashing to avoid looking too busy, don't think its too much of a stretch.
 
Stay before installation

 
The bullseye lashed to maintop

 
The completed mizzen standing rigging at the hounds.

Jesse - thanks for the kind words, just sharing the learning experience I'm going through.
 
And thanks for the 'likes'....
 
Finishing up the mizzen topmast ratlines, these are proving to be quite challeging as the shrouds don't have anywhere near as much tension as the others due to the fact they transfer all tension to the lower shrouds/futtock stave and would pull that all askew.  With all the other ratlines, they tend to want to pull the shrouds together, here, the shrouds are thinner line and close together and its the opposite effect where the ratlines want to push them apart.  Anyway, its coming together.
 
Bit of a diversion, as next step will be to rig the mizzen backstays and there were a couple of items I wanted to get done before the backstays make access a bit more difficult.  Installed a copper 'sheet' where the driver gaff will go (yes, its a spare copper plate from the hull rolled as flat as I can to get rid of the bumps - it looks better in person and should tone down with age.)  Its an approximation and not mentioned in instructions, but adds a bit more interest.  The tops are shaped to the angle the gaff will sit at once installed.
 

 
Next up was installing a saddle which again is not mentioned in the instructions.  This was a square strip of styrene bent to shape.
 

 
I've stared at the driver boom and gaff jaws ever since I opened the box and wondered how they would look.  Well, I got my answer, pretty awful - they just look a bit big and flat, and didn't look that great to my eye.  Anyway, I dutifully assembled these and then decided to try to improve them by building up with some spare walnut and then sanding to shape.  I much prefer the end result.
 
Built up with spare strip wood and roughly shaped

 
Finished driver boom, iron bands simulated with paper, ring bolts and holes not added yet, more work to do on the boom itself first.  The 'out of box' solution is next to it.

 
Driver boom in place sitting on its saddle.  Still maybe a little big (?) but I'm happy.  Now to do the driver gaff which will be a little more tricky because of the angle that needs to be built into the jaws.

Thanks gents, it was a vain hope to expect for a chorus of voices saying "thats exactly how its supposed to be" 
 
Well, 5hrs back, and 3 forward!  Luckily the futtock staves came off without any damage, although I was sweating bullets fearing I would cut through a shroud, that would be a lot of rework.  Futtock staves re-positioned and topmast shrouds reinstalled (bit of final tie off still to do on port side).  Even after moving these there is still not too much of an overhang but it looks a lot better, they really couldn't go any higher.  I cheated a little and took the shroud on the inside of the futtock stave rather than the outside as it technically should be because it looked a little better to my eye.  The main and fore-topmasts situation will be the same.
 
This may have been a blessing in disguise.  The catharpins would have interfered with the driver gaff and associated rigging so I will leave these off following the AOTS Pandora illustration where catharpins are not shown on the mizzen.
 

Joachim, Capt. Steve, Matti, Mark, Dave, Nigel, Frank, Lawrence, B.E. Thanks for all of your very nice remarks.
 
And a big thanks to all of you who clicked Like This, so nice of you to also let me know of your appreciation. I have been away for a few days and plan on getting back to the shipyard this week. Again thanks.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Well done Jason that is indeed the Bunny.. Granuaile was also know  as Grainne or Grace O'Malley.
 
The Boat was owned by the Commissioners of Irish Lights.
 
Over to you Mate
 
Eamonn
 
BTW Just realised your last one was the Argo as in JASON and the Argonauts !! am kinda slow over here eh?