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NMBROOK

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  1. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    After considerable deliberation,I felt my build was missing something,an interior.I haven't posted for a bit,but I have been busy beavering away.I wanted to utilise full cannons and carriages throughout.In order to do this I had to remove 20mm of solid birch ply infill at the bottom and smooth off the inner walls of the hull.I then shaped pieces of lime to the inside profile on the scroll saw to build up the hull thickness to nearer scale.The sections were left overthickness to allow for interior profiling.These were bonded in two at a time and allowed to dry before continuing to avoid hull distortion.It has meant that I get to cut the gunports all over again   .I have started work around the top of the hull completing the railings as I go in the hope of avoiding breaking anymore railing uprights.The plan is to fully plank the interior and other than the lower gundeck that will be fully planked,the rest will have sections of planking missing to be able to see the insides,navy board style.







  2. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Modeler12 in A video about attaching blocks to spars and masts   
    Thanks to Bender (and with his permission) I have put together as brief video about how to rig a block to a spar, mast or gaff.
    I hope this may be of some use to you.
     

  3. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Vasa by marktiedens - FINISHED - Sergal - scale 1:60   
    Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .
     

     

     

     
    Mark
  4. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in Name the Ship Game   
    I have sent Joe a PM.I will see what he says.
     
    Kind Regards Nigel
  5. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    Just a small update.Work is progressing well on the pediment carvings,but as they are only 6mmx8mm I gave up trying to take a decent picture.I have now fitted the first and the autofocus on the iphone works now the carving is fitted to the hull.I am actually up to 5 out of 6, but because I am putting two coats of varnish and then leaving 24 hours before fitting,it will be a couple of days before they are all fitted.
    Kind Regards Nigel


  6. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from archjofo in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    I have decided to concentrate on detailing the bulkhead before fitting the sides to the prow,simply to make access easier.I include a snipet of the van de velde artwork I am working to.The plan is to start at the bottom and work my way up.The first job is to replicate the frames around the lower charactures.I cut a piece of !mm pear strip and cut out apertures for the carvings.Rather than leave the corners sharp like in the artwork,I decided to put 0.5mmx0.5mm chamfers on with the scalpel.I feel that this looks much better.The next task is to carve the six pediments with the climbing foliage that sit below the figurines.These will fit on the vertical sections between the panel cutouts.
    Kind Regards Nigel




  7. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from archjofo in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    I have fitted the grated deck to the prow with epoxy and a few brass dowels in key positions.
    Kind Regards Nigel





  8. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from archjofo in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    The final instalment.The rib detail was added using the scalpel and dental probe.The end detail were shaped using the scalpel.Then finally a dress up of the edges with p320 silicon carbide paper.
    Kind Regards Nigel

  9. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from archjofo in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    First job today was to further refine the shape of the jaw and shoulder/neck area.This was carried out with the tip of the scalpel.Only removing minimal material has changed the head from 'planet of the apes'to a definate skull.
    Kind Regards Nigel

  10. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    As I seem to have encouraged a few members to have a go at carving,I am posting a few updates to try and illustrate the processes involved.I appreciate these may differ from what procedures some other members may follow,but this way works for me,as I mentioned earlier I have a couple of conditions that effect the dexterity and sensitivity in my hands.
    Picture one shows the initial shape roughed out in plan using a combination of a scalpel and a 1mm round burr in the dremel.
    In picture two I have started to  remove material to start to get the correct levels.The carving blank is overthick so I can slowly workdown to the correct thicknesses.The fine detail is left overwidth until I get close to the finished shape.This is then thinned out towards the end of the process.This helps to prevent unwanted breakout.
    Kind Regards Nigel


  11. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    I have fitted the carving.I have used aluminium tube 8mm long to replicate the lead lining that was used in the hawse holes.The bores have been countersunk to remove the corner.On to the other side now
    Kind Regards Nigel

  12. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in HMS Cumberland 1774 by AlexBaranov - FINISHED - 1:36   
    Aging solution with asphalt
    Beeswax  Slows drying time, soften the color  and more transparent.  Mixing it with the
                   bitumen    allows beewax molecules to bind  and make the asphalt more neutral
    paraffin:help beewax or could be white wax candle
    asphalt:   Was used by the egyptiens for embalming   Oil suluble
     
    pine resin:  Gives plastic properties  and can form a varnish if mixed with alcool
    natural soap:  probably for the oils in the soap
    turpentine:  Fluidity  and solubility of the mix
    siccative:   shorter drying time, max 10% of total mix.
     
    Alex is right everything is on Internet


  13. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from themadchemist in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    Just a small update.I have fitted the thro railing uprights for the last two decks(to be trimmed to height later in the build).I decided to treenail the prow deck.Call me mad as it is 1mm gratings but it just looked too plain compared to the hull.After I had cleaned the filler out of the holes using a 1mm sq piece of boxwood,I discovered some of the filler pigment had coloured some areas in the holes.I quite like this and adds a bit of artificial ageing,good job as I don't fancy remaking the deck.I then made a moulding out of pear sheet for where the deck abuts the bulkhead,using a combination of shaped x-acto blade and my pillar drill set up with a dremel milling cutter.Finally I sprayed the assembly with one coat of Ronseal Mattcoat.
    Kind Regards Nigel
  14. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from Keith_W in Linisher   
    I used to use one daily where I used to work.It was used for cleaning edges on steel plates!!!!Personally I think the large belt may be a bit overkill for modelling as I wouldn't describe it as an accurate tool.Whenever I shaped wood on ours,even just reshafting a hammer,it had a bad habit of burning the wood.The disc sander yes,but I would only use the belt for the roughest of jobs.
    Kind Regards Nigel
  15. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to wefalck in Grating dimensions   
    I have a 1923 textbook on ship's joinery and this recommends 2" (50 mm) for the opening and the widths of the laths. The depths of one set would be 2"-2.5" (50 mm - 75 mm) and the other only half of that: modellers commonly notch both sets in comb-fashion, while in reality smaller laths were laid into the notches. They way modellers make gratings makes them self-locking, but on the prototype both laths types would be notched into the frame that provides the locking.
     
    wefalck
  16. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    Hi Everyone,
     
    revised posting  from yesterday's 
     
    Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
     
    Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
     
    The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
     
    Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
     
    Regards,
     
    Michael











  17. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Bill Hime in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    Good morning my friend,
     
    Nigel, I spent the duration of this night reading and studying this log. I'm afraid every possible adjective has already been involked upon these pages, I'm at a loss for words . You represent the best parts of all of us and then some. I will continue to follow closely. I will shift over and join you on the Caroline for the duration.
    You inspire me deeply, thank you.
     
    Warm Regards,
     
    Bill
  18. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to SandyM in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    Hi Nigel,
    I have been thinking of the best way of cutting back the ribs to give more clearance on the decks. Your solution fits best, as I am putting in fore and aft "U" beams to carry the fibre optics (you can see the indents for the posts on my build). So if you don't mind I may just nick that idea.
    To keep you updated, I have been working on the stern, like you, I remodelled the transom out of Walnut. The problem I had was when you Gold plate wood  the grain appears to get highlighted, that's OK for small bits, but for the large areas on the stern it looks a bit off. I decided to copper foil these areas prior to plating. I will post some photos soon.
    Sandy
  19. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    Nigel,
     
    No need to waffle, as you might have assumed I'm looking forward to visiting your new build log.
     
    Michael
  20. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    Any time mate. If you ever come to Sweden, the beers are on me.
     
     
    /Matti
  21. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    Don't be silly mate,that's what we are here for.I know who to see should I want any advice on paint washes
     
    Kind Regards Nigel
  22. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    Cheers Vivian and mobbsie!
     
    Blue an Nigel, thanks alot for the help! Nigel, those look really nice and thats very kind of you. I will measure them later on and ask you for advice. First the soldering iron idea and now this! I owe you guys.
     
     
    /Matti
  23. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    Hi Matti
    Out of necessity,i am replacing all the cannons on my Sovereign build.I am using Amati decorative cannons.These can be obtained either with or without a machined walnut carriage assembly.They come in various lengths but the lengths listed are actually different from the true length.I bought a sample of each size to determine what I required.I didn't want plain cannons as that wasn't was fitted on the original,and I feel Wasa is the same.I include a picture so you get an idea (I thought there was one on my build log,but after checking,there isn't).If you like the look of them,I will give you the part numbers and exact lengths.
    Kind Regards Nigel

  24. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from KobusBeukes in Milling Machine   
    I had posted a which miller topic a while back.Having weighed up the options I went for the Proxxon MF70.Love it to bits.A lot depends what you have in mind but 90% of the work it gets used for is with cutters between 1 and 3mm.I know from when I was trained in using machine tools(for metals)everything is about the correct cutting speed.Cutting speed is not rpm but the actual speed between the cutting edge and workpiece.Obviously the smaller the cutter the higher the rpm to reach this cutting speed.The disadvantage with using a Dremel is that the main spindle is not designed for milling and can result in bearing run out problems.
    Kind Regards Nigel
  25. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from mobbsie in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    Hi Matti
    Out of necessity,i am replacing all the cannons on my Sovereign build.I am using Amati decorative cannons.These can be obtained either with or without a machined walnut carriage assembly.They come in various lengths but the lengths listed are actually different from the true length.I bought a sample of each size to determine what I required.I didn't want plain cannons as that wasn't was fitted on the original,and I feel Wasa is the same.I include a picture so you get an idea (I thought there was one on my build log,but after checking,there isn't).If you like the look of them,I will give you the part numbers and exact lengths.
    Kind Regards Nigel

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