NMBROOK
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NMBROOK got a reaction from archjofo in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
First job today was to further refine the shape of the jaw and shoulder/neck area.This was carried out with the tip of the scalpel.Only removing minimal material has changed the head from 'planet of the apes'to a definate skull.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
As I seem to have encouraged a few members to have a go at carving,I am posting a few updates to try and illustrate the processes involved.I appreciate these may differ from what procedures some other members may follow,but this way works for me,as I mentioned earlier I have a couple of conditions that effect the dexterity and sensitivity in my hands.
Picture one shows the initial shape roughed out in plan using a combination of a scalpel and a 1mm round burr in the dremel.
In picture two I have started to remove material to start to get the correct levels.The carving blank is overthick so I can slowly workdown to the correct thicknesses.The fine detail is left overwidth until I get close to the finished shape.This is then thinned out towards the end of the process.This helps to prevent unwanted breakout.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
I have fitted the carving.I have used aluminium tube 8mm long to replicate the lead lining that was used in the hawse holes.The bores have been countersunk to remove the corner.On to the other side now
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in HMS Cumberland 1774 by AlexBaranov - FINISHED - 1:36
Aging solution with asphalt
Beeswax Slows drying time, soften the color and more transparent. Mixing it with the
bitumen allows beewax molecules to bind and make the asphalt more neutral
paraffin:help beewax or could be white wax candle
asphalt: Was used by the egyptiens for embalming Oil suluble
pine resin: Gives plastic properties and can form a varnish if mixed with alcool
natural soap: probably for the oils in the soap
turpentine: Fluidity and solubility of the mix
siccative: shorter drying time, max 10% of total mix.
Alex is right everything is on Internet
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NMBROOK got a reaction from themadchemist in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
Just a small update.I have fitted the thro railing uprights for the last two decks(to be trimmed to height later in the build).I decided to treenail the prow deck.Call me mad as it is 1mm gratings but it just looked too plain compared to the hull.After I had cleaned the filler out of the holes using a 1mm sq piece of boxwood,I discovered some of the filler pigment had coloured some areas in the holes.I quite like this and adds a bit of artificial ageing,good job as I don't fancy remaking the deck.I then made a moulding out of pear sheet for where the deck abuts the bulkhead,using a combination of shaped x-acto blade and my pillar drill set up with a dremel milling cutter.Finally I sprayed the assembly with one coat of Ronseal Mattcoat.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Keith_W in Linisher
I used to use one daily where I used to work.It was used for cleaning edges on steel plates!!!!Personally I think the large belt may be a bit overkill for modelling as I wouldn't describe it as an accurate tool.Whenever I shaped wood on ours,even just reshafting a hammer,it had a bad habit of burning the wood.The disc sander yes,but I would only use the belt for the roughest of jobs.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to wefalck in Grating dimensions
I have a 1923 textbook on ship's joinery and this recommends 2" (50 mm) for the opening and the widths of the laths. The depths of one set would be 2"-2.5" (50 mm - 75 mm) and the other only half of that: modellers commonly notch both sets in comb-fashion, while in reality smaller laths were laid into the notches. They way modellers make gratings makes them self-locking, but on the prototype both laths types would be notched into the frame that provides the locking.
wefalck
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NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Everyone,
revised posting from yesterday's
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
Regards,
Michael
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NMBROOK reacted to Bill Hime in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
Good morning my friend,
Nigel, I spent the duration of this night reading and studying this log. I'm afraid every possible adjective has already been involked upon these pages, I'm at a loss for words . You represent the best parts of all of us and then some. I will continue to follow closely. I will shift over and join you on the Caroline for the duration.
You inspire me deeply, thank you.
Warm Regards,
Bill
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NMBROOK reacted to SandyM in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
Hi Nigel,
I have been thinking of the best way of cutting back the ribs to give more clearance on the decks. Your solution fits best, as I am putting in fore and aft "U" beams to carry the fibre optics (you can see the indents for the posts on my build). So if you don't mind I may just nick that idea.
To keep you updated, I have been working on the stern, like you, I remodelled the transom out of Walnut. The problem I had was when you Gold plate wood the grain appears to get highlighted, that's OK for small bits, but for the large areas on the stern it looks a bit off. I decided to copper foil these areas prior to plating. I will post some photos soon.
Sandy
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NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Nigel,
No need to waffle, as you might have assumed I'm looking forward to visiting your new build log.
Michael
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NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Any time mate. If you ever come to Sweden, the beers are on me.
/Matti
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NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Don't be silly mate,that's what we are here for.I know who to see should I want any advice on paint washes
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Cheers Vivian and mobbsie!
Blue an Nigel, thanks alot for the help! Nigel, those look really nice and thats very kind of you. I will measure them later on and ask you for advice. First the soldering iron idea and now this! I owe you guys.
/Matti
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NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hi Matti
Out of necessity,i am replacing all the cannons on my Sovereign build.I am using Amati decorative cannons.These can be obtained either with or without a machined walnut carriage assembly.They come in various lengths but the lengths listed are actually different from the true length.I bought a sample of each size to determine what I required.I didn't want plain cannons as that wasn't was fitted on the original,and I feel Wasa is the same.I include a picture so you get an idea (I thought there was one on my build log,but after checking,there isn't).If you like the look of them,I will give you the part numbers and exact lengths.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from KobusBeukes in Milling Machine
I had posted a which miller topic a while back.Having weighed up the options I went for the Proxxon MF70.Love it to bits.A lot depends what you have in mind but 90% of the work it gets used for is with cutters between 1 and 3mm.I know from when I was trained in using machine tools(for metals)everything is about the correct cutting speed.Cutting speed is not rpm but the actual speed between the cutting edge and workpiece.Obviously the smaller the cutter the higher the rpm to reach this cutting speed.The disadvantage with using a Dremel is that the main spindle is not designed for milling and can result in bearing run out problems.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mobbsie in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hi Matti
Out of necessity,i am replacing all the cannons on my Sovereign build.I am using Amati decorative cannons.These can be obtained either with or without a machined walnut carriage assembly.They come in various lengths but the lengths listed are actually different from the true length.I bought a sample of each size to determine what I required.I didn't want plain cannons as that wasn't was fitted on the original,and I feel Wasa is the same.I include a picture so you get an idea (I thought there was one on my build log,but after checking,there isn't).If you like the look of them,I will give you the part numbers and exact lengths.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Looking great Matti What are you planning on doing for cannons as presumably the kit ones will be too short as you have modified the gunports?
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Here are the top planks and the side ledges in place. Next up are the vertical "floor" planks. The original have them quite wonky and Im gonna try to imitate that look.
/Matti
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NMBROOK reacted to SandyM in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
Hi Nigel,
She's looking good. I like the idea of deck beam supports.
Sandy
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NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Not an update, but my favorite son (we only have one child) got his dad an early Christmas present. It showed up yesterday. Hmmmm so happy. I think that my need for tools is over, now just more ships (:-) Presently working on the Vasa chain plates.
Regards,
Michael
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NMBROOK reacted to pirozzi in Euro Ship Kits - moved by moderator
Hi Nigel,
I received "The Period Ship Handbook #1" and it is excellent! The whole first half of the book is devoted in detail to building the Royal William. I bought it used on Amazon for only $16. And as an added bonus, It shows in detail how to rig brails on the mizen lateen sail, which I need to complete the SOS I am now working on.
Thanks Much.
Vince P.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Euro Ship Kits - moved by moderator
Glad your impressed Vince.As a matter of a fact I bought the Euromodel plan set for Royal William a couple of weeks back.Even though they are all italian(hence the need for the downloads) there are a few kit companies that could learn a thing or two from them.Very impressive,all seventeen sheets of them.If you wish to add any further detailing of your own,it is all there on the plans.They go far beyond what is included in the kit.If you are wondering why I just bought the plans,they are for a future scratchbuild to a larger scale.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to tkay11 in What do you use your mill for ?
Just for the interest of those who've been following this topic, I've posted the modifications I made to my Proxxon MB 140 drill stand to make it into a milling machine as well. The link is http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4539-how-to-modify-proxxon-mb-140-drill-stand-to-act-as-mill/?p=130660
Tony
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NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Cheers for the nice comments everyone! They give lots of energy to continue the build.
Keith, its around 500 sculptures. Im not sure how many is left for me, but the gun port lions will be most work to get uniform and nice. I think the galleries and towers were most work on the model as all sculptures had to be individually shaped. Im glad I could shape them though so I could shape the wood the way I wanted. And it feels pretty nice to look at it afterwards.
Lawrence, I hope you finish the trees soon so we can get some nice updates of your work!
Phil, yeah the 1:10 looks bright and almost orange in those pics. It looks more muted in real life. Ill post a picture of the 1:10 looking more like real life. I always try to get natural colors when I paint models for effect and harmony My basic idea for this paintjob was to get a red like blood and a yellow like bones and the tarred hull like soil. The scale also looks more harmonic in muted natural colors in my opinion.
Mark and Nigel, the original thingie looks like a sea monster with two smaller monsters at his sides. Ive read the grotesque style is common for north german renaissance. Im not sure I can get that shaped properly but I will try.
/Matti
PS: Heres a pic of the 1:10 model without the strong flash making the red and yellow look weird. I think the untreated look of the hull makes the colors look more bright than they would on a tarred ship.
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