NMBROOK
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Kurt Johnson in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
I have to admit my patience has been stretched several times working on the prow deck.I have had numerous pieces filed in the 'recycling section' and have had to remake them.I feel I am on the home straight now,but I can't believe how long it is taking.I include some pics of as it is today.The gratings are caldercraft 1mm ones as small children could fall through the ones supplied.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to chris watton in Newsworthy updates from Chris Watton
I think more than anything it is the amount of carvings that put manufacturer's off. To do them well (as opposed to nothing more than oddly shaped blobs of metal coated in crappy bright paint) costs a lot of money. I want the new carvings/castings to be resin, as this shows more definition and the parts are easier to manipulate if need be, to follow the hull lines - although I am sure that when some open the box of cheaper kits, they'll still think they're getting more for their money because the bright shiny blobs of nothingness look like jewellery (from Claire's Accessories for the UK readers....)
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NMBROOK got a reaction from archjofo in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
I have nearly finished all the treenailing on the starboard side.I decided to use 0.5mm copper for the mainwales.Now as a break I decided to start work on the beakhead bulkhead.In the deagostini partwork,this is almost identical to Sergals offering.As I am modifying this model to represent the Vandevelde artworks, I decided this was best scratchbuilt.I came up with a design that incorparates the uprights for the railings for strength,as the majority of the rigging is tied off to these railings.I made three limewood formers and notched these to take the boxwood uprights.This was then glued together on a sheet of glass to ensure flatness.The front face was skinned in two laminations of 0.8mm ply and then planked with black boxwood strips I have obtained from a marqeuetry supplier.After gluing braces into the forecastle area,I removed the majority of the original bulkhead.The planking at the forecastle was slimmed down to 1mm thick from the inside.To the inside of this I laminated some more 0.8mm ply.This strengthens this area and forms a base for the uprights at the sides of the forecastle.I then mortised the remains of the old bulkhead and epoxied in the corner uprights.At the moment all the uprights are left way overlength and the new bulkhead's sides will be trimmed flush to the hull when this is bonded in place.I am going to detail this bulkhead before I actually bond it in place.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from leginseel in avoiding bleed between stain & paint
Hi Hamilton
I would stain the upper hull first without masking,no matter if you go a bit below the waterline.Allow to dry thoroughly then apply two or three coats of polyurethane over the whole hull.Allow to harden off for 48 hours.Mask above the waterline and rub the bottom down lightly with 320 grit silicon carbide paper.Replace the masking if necessary(I would have used cheap masking tape for the first step as its only to protect from scratching the upper hull and tamiya masking for the second) and then paint the bottom.
Hope this helps
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in avoiding bleed between stain & paint
Hi Hamilton
I would stain the upper hull first without masking,no matter if you go a bit below the waterline.Allow to dry thoroughly then apply two or three coats of polyurethane over the whole hull.Allow to harden off for 48 hours.Mask above the waterline and rub the bottom down lightly with 320 grit silicon carbide paper.Replace the masking if necessary(I would have used cheap masking tape for the first step as its only to protect from scratching the upper hull and tamiya masking for the second) and then paint the bottom.
Hope this helps
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from hamilton in avoiding bleed between stain & paint
Hi Hamilton
I would stain the upper hull first without masking,no matter if you go a bit below the waterline.Allow to dry thoroughly then apply two or three coats of polyurethane over the whole hull.Allow to harden off for 48 hours.Mask above the waterline and rub the bottom down lightly with 320 grit silicon carbide paper.Replace the masking if necessary(I would have used cheap masking tape for the first step as its only to protect from scratching the upper hull and tamiya masking for the second) and then paint the bottom.
Hope this helps
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from archjofo in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
I have had a lovely long holiday weekend treenailing I have completed both sides under the wales and intend to give this area a few coats of polyurethane for protection.I have also inlaid some small pieces of maple to represent the bowtie piece that joins keel to sternpost.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from archjofo in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
Hi Anja
Well I do cheat a bit in that the instructions on the Italian site are six months infront of those here in GB.It gives me a preview of whats to come and how little of the original partwork I will be using.To be honest I am changing so much that the instructions become almost redundant.
I include a few pics of progress to date.I am concentrating on one side at a time to relieve the tedium of constantly treenailing.You will notice the alterations to the upper gunports.These have been altered to accomodate the decorations.The kits supplied directions are incorrect.I have acquired some black pre dyed boxwood strips to plank the upper hull where the ornamentation sits.This will cover all the alterations I have to make in this area, to create a more accurate representation of the original.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from newbuilder101 in San Felipe by newbuilder101 (Sherry) – Scale 1:96
Sherry my apologies,I didn't notice this as I was too wrapped up in looking at the pictures.I totally agree with you,some models you build with historic research and others you build for sheer enjoyment.It is nice to let your imagination run wild a bit,and nobody can say 'that wasn't like that etc'.And as I said the San Felipe is beautiful.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from cristikc in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
Hi Anja
Well I do cheat a bit in that the instructions on the Italian site are six months infront of those here in GB.It gives me a preview of whats to come and how little of the original partwork I will be using.To be honest I am changing so much that the instructions become almost redundant.
I include a few pics of progress to date.I am concentrating on one side at a time to relieve the tedium of constantly treenailing.You will notice the alterations to the upper gunports.These have been altered to accomodate the decorations.The kits supplied directions are incorrect.I have acquired some black pre dyed boxwood strips to plank the upper hull where the ornamentation sits.This will cover all the alterations I have to make in this area, to create a more accurate representation of the original.
Kind Regards Nigel
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