newbuilder101

So after all that worry, it turned out the coppering really was not all that difficult. Here she is finished
 

 

 
The rudder
 

 
And all assembled
 

 
Now that I have received my replacement pieces from ME, I can go back and get my deck planked at last!
 

HI Matt.... thanks for your  nice comments.... Denis R mentioned the same thing about the chair too....... kind of strange , I did'nt know about the rope ladder though....... Well anyway it's finished . I  posted all the photos in the gallery.I just ordered the A.L. Marina ll , it's a  bonita boat....should be a fun build....... See ya later!!!.....................
 
and  ........... I'd like to give a special thanks to Russ and Chuck for all their help with the spiling  process, a long with Dirk's excellent build of his "Alert", which was my guide thru out the  whole build ( thanks Dirk!!)....... and last but not least, a BIG thanks to all that supported my efforts along the way.....    
 
Frank....... Now!! to end this journey....  ta da!!!!
 
 
        
 
 
 
 
 
 

Okay....garden is in...back to the shipyard!
 
Anja: We definitely will enjoy our garden now that it is planted. We managed to plant it in one day - potatoes (65 plants), squash (3 varieties), Swiss chard, beets, carrots, lettuce (3 varieties), tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, beans, peas, onions, radish, dill and sunflowers!
 
Steve: I'm not quite finished the first planking, but it's getting close. I still need to sand and trim, but here's how she looks at the moment.....
 

 

It's been a little while, but I have a small update. I have the main deck partially planked, and will complete after the removal of the bulkhead tops. I've also started the first hull planking. I'm just following the plan instructions for this planking, but will do the final planking as per Chuck's method.
 

 

Today I got a little distracted and decided the San Felipe needed a captain! I carved him from a tiny bit of basswood... and he is 1:96 scale to match the ship. He's standing on a practice run of planking.
 
First picture shows the unpainted and the second shows the painted.
 

 

 
For reference, I've placed him on a Canadian dime, which is our smallest coin in physical size - 11/16" or 17mm (approximately)
 

 

Here the balsa gun blocks are in place. I also added an additional filler piece at the bow.
 

 

 
I've also been researching led lighting and am experimenting with placement. They are just loosely in place here until I get the main deck on and holes drilled for them. I used 3mm yellow/orange led lights and 360 Ohm carbon resistors. The light wiring is too large in diameter to fit in the brass tubing for the stern lanterns...but I think I have a great idea for that when the time comes. (stay tuned for that - later on)
 

 

Finally found some time to make a bit more progress. Here the lower decks are in place.
 

 

 
 

Another small update.
This is just a dry fit again...don't want to fix anything permanently until all the bulkheads have been faired (at least partially) and the decks are cut and test-fitted.
 

 

Here is the first bulkhead cut with my new scroll saw!
 

 
This is just a 'dry fit' to see how I did. So far I'm fairly happy.
 

I finally have a small update!
It's been very busy...brother had a heart attack, daughter broke her foot...and that was just one day!
Anyway, things have settled down now and I have a chance to work on my San Felipe!
 
Even though I was "coping" well and not "fretting" too much with my hand sawing...I now have a scroll saw!
The first picture shows the brand new saw that lasted about 3 1/2 minutes...until the plastic bearing collar broke and parts flew!
The second picture shows the used scroll saw that I replaced it with (all metal, 22 inch). It works like a charm!
 

 

 
This is the finished knee of the head/keel parts that I fine tuned until they fit properly.
 

 
Next up was the building slip and attached false keel.
 

 

 
 

Thanks Mark! Your humorous observations are a real compliment especially coming from an experienced builder ! The wood is basswood.
 
Thanks Jeff! I used a coping saw with a high tooth count.

Okay...before you-know-who does ask....here's is a modest update.
I cut these parts by hand (tedium ad infinitum) and still have some minor tweaking to do, but this is it so far.
 

 

Today I got a little distracted and decided the San Felipe needed a captain! I carved him from a tiny bit of basswood... and he is 1:96 scale to match the ship. He's standing on a practice run of planking.
 
First picture shows the unpainted and the second shows the painted.
 

 

 
For reference, I've placed him on a Canadian dime, which is our smallest coin in physical size - 11/16" or 17mm (approximately)
 

 

Okay...before you-know-who does ask....here's is a modest update.
I cut these parts by hand (tedium ad infinitum) and still have some minor tweaking to do, but this is it so far.
 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 144 – Monkey Rail 2
 
Happy Valentines Day, everyone.
 
After making and polishing the rail stanchions holes were measured out and drilled in the center of the main rail and in most cases down into the toptimbers below.  The stanchions were then inserted into the holes for a depth check.  A single rail section for each side was then curved to match the poop profile.  The stanchions were then removed from their holes and threaded on to the rail in order.  The next picture shows the next step – epoxy gluing the stanchions into their holes.
 

 
The end of the rail was first inserted into the inverted U bracket at the stern.  All of the stanchions were then inserted into their holes, then lifted for gluing starting at the stern.  The clamps in the above picture are lightly pressing the stanchions down where needed until the epoxy sets.  The next picture shows the last stanchion on the starboard side being glued. 
 

 
The rail was crimped in the aft stanchion then touched with a drop of CA glue.  The others are free to move along the rail at this stage.  The forward end of the rail was bent to the athwartship direction at the foremost stanchion as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The stanchions along the breast beam were then glued into place with the rails inserted.  In the picture above, the glue has dried and a section of stair rail is being fitted into the lower ball on one of the stanchions at the top of the stair.  The next picture shows the stanchions loosely in place on the port side.
 

 
In this picture the port rail has been curved to shape and is ready for installation.  The last two pictures show the completed monkey rail.
 

 

 
This last picture was taken before final straightening of the stanchions on the near side.  Once everything was adjusted the top balls were crimped with pliers to hold them in place.  The rail is, of course, quite exposed and susceptible to damage by careless leaning or bumping.  I am trying to sensitize myself to this new problem.  The days of turning the model over and shaking it to remove debris are over.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 142 – Mooring Chocks
 
The next planned item of work was to install the brass “monkey rail” that surrounds the poop deck.  I do not know the origin of the term.  However, since the four large chocks that control the route of the mooring lines through the rail from the dock to the mooring bitts are below that rail, they needed to be slipped into the queue and installed first so that holes for their bolts could be drilled.  There are four of these at the stern and four at the bow.  The first picture shows these being installed on the starboard side of the stern quarter.
 

 
A small dab of epoxy is being applied in the picture.  The chocks – sometimes called “comb cleats” – and their bolts were made as integral assemblies as described below.
 
The chocks and the bolts were made from copper.  I prefer this material to brass because I find it easier to blacken using liver of sulfur solution.  The first picture shows a length of copper bar with shapes for several chocks partially cut.
 

 
The first step in making these cuts was to drill two spaced holes for each chock.  The tops were then cut through with a jeweler’s saw.  In the next picture a round, spiral-toothed blade is being used to shape the inner lines.
 

 
The outer contours of the chock cleats were then filed out.  In the next picture the rounded shapes of the chock cleats have been filed and polished, holes have been drilled for the bolts, wire bolts inserted, and the strip of chocks readied for soldering.
 

 
Copper-phosphorus solder was used for this because it blackens well with LOS.  The finished stern chocks are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The bolt heads have been cut back and one of the chocks has been blackened.  In the next picture the locations of the chocks are being laid out with dividers.
 

 
Bolt hole spacing was also set with dividers and the holes drilled through the main rail.  In the last picture the four chocks have been installed.
 

 
The last picture also shows the aft, central section of the monkey rail temporarily positioned and in need of a bit of straightening.  I also not in this picture that the helm enclosure – temporarily fitted at this stage was a bit askew on its pins when the shutter snapped.
 
Work on the brass monkey rail was now able to proceed and will be described in the next part.
 
Ed

Progress has been made. I completed the planking of the inside of the bulwarks, and constructed, attached and painted my cap rails.
 

 

 
Then I attempted to move on to the next step which is to put in my margin plank, then lay the planks on the deck. Well....that is on hold, as I discovered the two laser cut pieces I used for the bow of my cap rail were supposed to be the margin planks at the bow. I attempted to use the cut outs as a template and cut them from some spare wood I had laying around, but I ran into all kinds of problems. If I used wood the proper thickness, then because the curve often goes against the grain, my pieces kept breaking. So I broke down and contacted Model Expo for a replacement sheet for those parts. Now I am waiting, waiting, waiting. lol
 
While I am waiting, I built the jig for stamping my copper according to Chuck's included plans. The jig itself was quite easy to build, the stamps however are proving more difficult. I made them, drilled the tiny little holes into which I dropped nails, but then of course when cutting the nails it was impossible to get them all to the same length. No problem thought I, I just used a metal file to bring them all to the same height.
However, when putting them to actual use, the imprint I am getting on the copper tape, is not very clear at all. I have never done coppering before, so I am not sure if it is my stamps, or my technique. How in the world do you get a nice clear "stamp" onto the copper tape?
The other question I have, is in the real world, this would have been done with plates (which have edges). When using the copper tape, how do you you make it look as if it is individual plates?
Any suggestions on coppering are wlecome!
 

Hi Bug,
 
Your actions are to be commended mate.
 
I can only agree with all the above comments and sentiments posted above and I wish you every success in this worthy endeavour.
 
I'm sure Augie is nodding approval and very pleased with your decision to take this emotive task on.
 
Power to your elbow mate, Good Luck.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Bug,
 
I think this will mean a lot not only to Diane but to the rest of us here at MSW.  I'm sure that Augie would agree that Confed is in very capable hands.  A fitting tribute and memorial to a wonderful human being and a great friend.  

Bug,
 
My deepest respect for you that you want to take up the task to finish the Confederacy in memory of Augie!
I know that you will do her justice!
 
Sjors

Hello Bug,
 
Thank you for the beautiful introduction.
 
Augie's Confederacy is now in your capable hands. I wish you the best of luck. Take good care of her.
 
Anja

Hello all,
 
      We all lost a dear friend, great supporter and member of our Shipbuilding family when Augie Bruno passed in December.  No one was as proud of his work or shared in his enjoyment of the hobby more than his lovely wife Diane.
 
    After being contacted by Popeye, Diane expressed how helpful and wonderful it would be if someone were able to finish Augie’s work on the Confederacy – both as a tribute to Augie, and as a way to keep us all connected with his memory. As Augie and Diane’s home is only about 15 miles from me, I was asked if I would be willing to take over Augie’s build.  
 
    I had the pleasure of sharing a cup of coffee, some delightful cookies, and even more delightful stories with Diane – and she assured me that this is indeed what Augie would have wanted.
 
     So, it is with a warm heart, and substantial amount of humility that I’ll pick up where Augie left off.
 
     Thanks already - and in advance to Anja, Popeye, Mark and Sjors for their support. I’ll do my best give Augie’s build justice, and do right by Augie and Diane.  
 
    As it stands – I’m embroiled in research, as this is my first American built ship, and I feel it’s important to get to know her as much as I can before I continue the build. Hope to have some actual progress to show soon, but in the meantime – here she is in her new shipyard.
 

 
 
- Bug

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 140 – Bilge Pumps 4
 
In the last part the basic geometry of the pump flywheels was machined into one of the wheels.  With the symmetric geometry of that wheel established, the remaining work on the wheel was done by hand with small files (serrated and diamond grit) and polishing sticks.  To take advantage of the wheel being chucked, one wheel was completed at a time.  In the first picture the machined and still chucked wheel have been removed from the mill together so the chuck could be used to hold the wheel for the hand filing – as shown in the first picture.
 

 
Starting off with this was a bit confusing until one filed out spoke set the pattern. The basic shape of the spokes was first filed out without doing any rounding.   The next picture shows this still incomplete step.  There is still some material to remove between the spokes. 
 

 
Once the parallel curved lines of the spokes were established, each was rounded.  The wheel was flipped in the chuck to file from the other side.  The polished wheel is shown below.
 

 
The second wheel was then made by the same process.  Each rim was then drilled to fit a crank handle. The inside end of each of these was peened over to hold it in place – avoiding soldering.  I had originally intended to blacken and perhaps paint the  flywheels but once made I decided that their shape could best be appreciated by leaving them as polished brass – call it artistic license.  The next two pictures show the finished wheels mounted on the crankshaft.
 

 

 
Small sleeves between each wheel and its bearing keep the wheel clear of the fife rails.  The wheels were finally glued to the shafts with epoxy.  The last picture was taken after cutting off the excess shaft material and after the fife rails were fitted out with their complement of belaying pins.
 

 
All the work of the last few months has involved a series of discreet tasks –cabins, companions, windlass, capstans, and now the pumps – that need to be completed before I can get “off the deck” with the masts and rigging.  I am impatient to get to that, but there are several more “deckbound” tasks to complete yet.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 136 – Capstans 4
 
This post will wrap up the work on the two capstans.  In the first picture 4 copper pawls have been added to the main deck capstan.
 

 
These are loosely bolted to the lower disk through the iron (i.e blackened copper) band.  At full scale these would drop easily into the baseplate groove.  At this scale they drop sometimes.  These were made to be reversible.  They could be flipped over to allow the capstan to work in the opposite rotation.  In the next picture the pawls have been blackened with liver of sulfur d and flipped.
 

 
In the next picture one of the baseplates has been removed to add four pawl stops. 
 
 

 
These are small (3” x 3” brass cubes.  the black dabs in the picture are solder/flux paste.  When the four cubes are fitted in place in contact with the paste the entire assembly was torched to flux the solder.  The next picture shows the forecastle capstan set on its blacked, finished baseplate.
 

 
Both the base plate and the wood base were still loose at this point.  The base plates were then epoxied into the wood bases.  In the next picture small wood stops are being glued to the spindle to hold this entire assembly together while allowing the capstan to rotate on the baseplate/wood base assembly.
 

 
When the wood bases are glued to the deck, the brass pins at the base of the spindles fit into holes previously driled in the steps on the deck below.  In the next two pictures the wood bases have been glued to the deck, completing the installation.
 

 

 
The two capstans rotate freely and are pretty reliably stopped when the rotation is reversed.
 
The next task is one I have been anticipating (and perhaps dreading) for some time – the bilge pumps.
 
Ed

Just catching up Sherry, very sorry to hear about your loss. As you know I lost my mom just a year ago, it will get easier, but the empty spot will stay.