ca.shipwright

Hervie,
It's not sacrilege. But, it is a lost opportunity to develop a skill that will be needed throughout you modeling career. There is nothing more pleasing to the eye than a well planked hull. Well, maybe the rigging.
 
Regards

Hervie,
It's not sacrilege. But, it is a lost opportunity to develop a skill that will be needed throughout you modeling career. There is nothing more pleasing to the eye than a well planked hull. Well, maybe the rigging.
 
Regards

Hervie,
It's not sacrilege. But, it is a lost opportunity to develop a skill that will be needed throughout you modeling career. There is nothing more pleasing to the eye than a well planked hull. Well, maybe the rigging.
 
Regards

?? What size brass pulley would you use for sheaves and cathead in 1:60  scale?
 
Thanks
 

 

I haven't tried it, but, it seems like starting with a fat tooth pick or a wooden kabob skewer might make fabricating belaying pins a lot easier than trying to turn down a piece of wood. I will let you know how this comes out.
 
Regards

?? What size brass pulley would you use for sheaves and cathead in 1:60  scale?
 
Thanks
 

 

Hervie,
Here is a photo of my bent T-pins that are stabbed into the bulkhead to hold the plank. You can turn them so you get pressure on the plank with the bend.

Hervie, Look up this build log and go to page 24. Scroll down and you will see a picture of a modified binder clip used to clamp planking to bulkheads. I've also used these very effectively. Sorry, I can't get the picture to paste in. Dunbrody Irish Famine Ship by Mahuna - 1:48 Sectional Model Regards

Hervie,
Here is a photo of my bent T-pins that are stabbed into the bulkhead to hold the plank. You can turn them so you get pressure on the plank with the bend.

Outstanding!!

Hervie,
I think you've got it. We all have good sides and better sides- not to worry. The small defects that you know are there are not going to be very noticeable when the ship is complete. Many of them will be under or visually blocked by something added later on in the build. Keep the faith you're doing great.
 
Regards

Hervie,
I'm like you. I do the best I can with the hope that the finished model is a pleasing to the eye, well made with crisp lines. If I learn new skills, more the better. It still amazes me that the only thing a visitor sees, and, the first he mentions when he looks at one of my models is the rigging.
 
For painting:
A good set of brushes. Several thin coats rather than one thick coat. Sometimes I thin the paint to the consistency of a color wash. Water based acrylics clean up with soap and water; no need for solvents. Prime the hull when you finish planking. It will help show any defects which can be fixed with filler.
 
For inexpensive paints, I go to Lowe's paint department and get the color I want in a sample with acrylic flat base. Pick any color they have on the chips in the store. Costs about $4.00 and you'll have enough to paint the rest of you models forever. I have tried air brushing and the effort was not worth it.
 
Hope this helps
 
Regards

Hervie,
Here is a photo of my bent T-pins that are stabbed into the bulkhead to hold the plank. You can turn them so you get pressure on the plank with the bend.

Jesse,
Your gratings are beautiful. How did you get the metal corners on the rope locker grating to come out so realistic? This is probably an item that I would have never considered modeling. Way beyond my skill level.
 
Regards

A clean desk is the sign of a very sick mind.

It just doesn't get any better than that!

Hello again,
Time for another report. Working on Sultana and HMB Endeavour simultaneously means both move kind of slowly.
 
The last photo was the first of several wood filler corrections. Several followed and now  am within 1-2 mm on the critical measurements. I’m pretty well satisfied at this point until something shows up that will not mate like it is supposed to.
 
Carved the 1/16th inch rebate down to the lower wale. Almost got it perfect. Another small touch up job for the wood filler. Painted the hull below the rebate with an acrylic tinted to get the tallow color. Not too bad a match but I may wind up painting the bottom white. Installed the keel, stem and rudder post. I made them out of boxwood. I like the edge-holding property of boxwood more than basswood. Started bending planks using a jig. This is not an easy chore with the 1/8 x 1/16 basswood. The well soaked strips have a tendency to kink in the curve. We’ll work it out. Managed to get the first planks installed P & S; marked the planks as per John’s practicum. Again, the symmetry not perfect but good. A little filler on the seam and all will be well.
 
I am using the bent T-pins to hold the planks down as the glue dries as shown in the photo. Very easy to do with basswood. Not sure how easy they would be on a plywood bulkhead. They work well with double planked hulls as well because you can pin them anywhere on the 1st planking.
 
In the photos, it looks like Sultana has a little list to starboard. This is due to the slot in the stand being slightly oversized. Also it looks like there are flats near the stem and stern post. This is filler where final touch up sanded through the paint, an optical illusion.

Amen Yancovitch!
E.J.- I also use your #2 method. I had trouble keeping the eyes the same using the rounded pliers so I switched to wrapping the wire around a drill bit of the diameter I wanted; grabbed the 2 ends of the wire in my right hand and rotated the drill bit with my left hand. Works like a charm. Either way, these are probable the strongest eyebolts you will ever need.
 
I make 20 of these a day to warm up my fingers for the days work.
 
Regards

Hervie, Look up this build log and go to page 24. Scroll down and you will see a picture of a modified binder clip used to clamp planking to bulkheads. I've also used these very effectively. Sorry, I can't get the picture to paste in. Dunbrody Irish Famine Ship by Mahuna - 1:48 Sectional Model Regards

Hervie,
Here is a photo of my bent T-pins that are stabbed into the bulkhead to hold the plank. You can turn them so you get pressure on the plank with the bend.

It just doesn't get any better than that!

It just doesn't get any better than that!

Snipped off wires. Wow! Some things are really complicated.
Thanks Jesse

Jesse,
Your gratings are beautiful. How did you get the metal corners on the rope locker grating to come out so realistic? This is probably an item that I would have never considered modeling. Way beyond my skill level.
 
Regards

Amen Yancovitch!
E.J.- I also use your #2 method. I had trouble keeping the eyes the same using the rounded pliers so I switched to wrapping the wire around a drill bit of the diameter I wanted; grabbed the 2 ends of the wire in my right hand and rotated the drill bit with my left hand. Works like a charm. Either way, these are probable the strongest eyebolts you will ever need.
 
I make 20 of these a day to warm up my fingers for the days work.
 
Regards