ca.shipwright

"When do I cut the hole in the deck for the masts" seems to be a very common question.
 
Here is one solution:
 
Take your center keel and lay it on the full scale side view of the ship. Draw an extension of the mast on the center keel down to the level of the bulkhead slots. Or, as close as you can without interfering any of these slots. Make the slot the diameter of the mast. Now glue two pieces of scrap to either side of this slot making sure not to interfere with any of the bulkheads.
 
Cut a tenion on opposite sides of the mast making sure that the sides of the tenion are parallel. The width of the tenion should be the same as the thickness of the center keel less a hair so that it can be inserted and removed easily.
 
This slot will give you the proper rake of the masts and keep them centered vertically on the hull. Bevel the end of the tenion and the top of the tenion to match the line of the center keel.
 
Remember to add the depth of the center keel slot and the thickness of the deck to the nominal length of the lower mast.
 
The mast should like something like this
Side View
              
        \     \
         \     \   <---   mast
          \     \   < --- deck line
           \     \    <-- tenion 
            \     \
 
Front View
                    
    l      l
    l      l
    l      l
     l    l
     l    l
     l    l
This sounds a lot more complicated than it is. I hope someone finds this useful.
 
Regards

Superb work Dave!

An hour of rigging is better than an hour of therapy.
 
Model ship building requires many skills. Many we learn as we go. Unfortunately, with skills it's "use it or loose it." Rigging is highly suseptable to this phenomenon. It's literally two years before the mast (no pun intended). This is my strongest positive for working on more than one model at a time which are in different stages of construction.
 
Regards

An hour of rigging is better than an hour of therapy.
 
Model ship building requires many skills. Many we learn as we go. Unfortunately, with skills it's "use it or loose it." Rigging is highly suseptable to this phenomenon. It's literally two years before the mast (no pun intended). This is my strongest positive for working on more than one model at a time which are in different stages of construction.
 
Regards

Hi Dave and EJ,
Thanks for the kind words, your models really do stimulate me to do better. I only wish that when I started, I paid more attention to the AOS. This would have let me build without trying to accommodate the Corel plans into the AOS- can't be done. So now I am using scaled top and side views from  AOS. This has presented several conflicts which are being handled in the most expeditious manner.
 
Right  now I am attempting to learn how to silver solder with a torch, flux and silver chips. My father was a jeweler and this is what he did for over 50 years. I wish he were still around to teach me. Working on the rudder cudgeons and pintles. More to follow soon.
 
Anyone have a Vandelay trunnel maker they want to loan out? It appears that Vandelay Industries no longer makes this item.
 
Using a drawer plate is a really big pain in......
 
Regards to all

Hi everyone,
Finally the rails, timberheads, gun ports and channels are all in place. Next up the stern.
 
Photo attached. Looks like my iPhone takes better pictures than my Canon camera.
 
Regards

Hi everyone,
Finally the rails, timberheads, gun ports and channels are all in place. Next up the stern.
 
Photo attached. Looks like my iPhone takes better pictures than my Canon camera.
 
Regards

Hello everyone,
Some more progress to report.
I seem to be taking two steps forward and one or two steps back trying to reconcile the Corel Endeavour with the AOS plans. I don't seem to have the vision needed yet to see when something is inconsistant. Hence, it is build, rip out and rebuild. I am totally in awe of the skills displayed by DAVEROW, DASHI, BANYAN, KIWIRON and others. I have had to reassess by expectations as my skills are nowhere near what you fellows display. It looks like I will have to be satisfied with a nicely built "representation" of HMB Endeavour.
 
Meanwhile, the work progresses, albeit slowly. Rails and timberheads are in on the forward part of the ship, anchor linings mounted, channels are installed in a rebate for added strength and painting continuously touched up. Also fabricated some more of the deck furnishings. Built the rudder and now have to add the cudgeons and pintles to the rudder and hull.
 
Some more pictures enclsoed
 
Regards to all.

Hello everyone,
Back in the shipyard, after a minor remodeling. The shipyard works better now.
 
Now for an update of HMB.
 
I have completed the deck planking using natural stained holly which I milled using my Jim Byrnes' saw and thickness sander. I really  do enjoy making timbers and one day I hope to scratch build a ship. I opted not to trennel the deck or the or the planking. But I did put in the butt and scarf joints in the decking. I uses a fine chisel to put a dent (takes 5)  in the wood and blackened it with a pencil. Of course, I cut one backwards. Loose your concentration for 1 second and a mistake will occur. They came our fairly well for a first effort.
 
As you can see, I ripped out the stern and redid it. I raised the bulworks the width of a plank and a half. 
 
Completed the bottom rails all around. A lot of painting going on. Everything got two coats of wipe on poly satin to try to protect what is done. Still looks like a continuous touch-up operation will be the norm.
 
Took a break from the long timbers and made some of the riding bits and pin rails. Again out of boxwood as it keeps a very sharp edge
 
It looks like the next investment is going to be an inexpensive X-Y table for the drill press so my holes come out evenly spaced and aligned.
 
Regards to all,
 
Pictures are attached
 
 
 

Greetings,
Well, we're back in the shipyard after a longer then planned break too busy doing honey chores.
 
To progress: the hull is fully planked as is the deck. The wales have been anchor-stocked with boxwood and painted The deck was planked with holly, stained natural. The lower hull is walnut again stained natural. The hull above the wales is box wood stained natural. The bull works are painted.
 
Next is to paint and install the water way planks. Then on to the deck furniture which will be boxwood.

Time for another up date.
 
Finally got the hull sanded good enough to start the second planking. I installed the sheer strake and put rebates in  for extra support for the channels. 
 
I began the second planking at the sheer strake and planked down to one plank below where the bottom of the wales lied. I then planked upward to the top of the bulworks. Worked out pretty well.
 
Then came the really interesting part. I decided to do the wales in anchor stock planks made of Asian boxwood. It is very hard and probably as the best edge holding of any wood.
 
 Each pair of anchor stock equals 1 plank width. There will be 3 pairs of anchor stock for the wales. I started at the bottom of the wale because the bottom of the 1st row will yield a straight line. These planks can be "mass produced by shaping a billet the length of a plank using a disc sander and then slicing of the planks at width. These planks lay on pretty straight forward. I started amid ship and work for and aft. This got me the proper lengths for the cut planks at the stem and stern.
 
Now comes the hard part. Each of the mating planks have to done on a custom fitting basis. Once the mating planks are in on the second row up, they will yield a straight line (in theory). Then back to the mass produced etc. I wonder if I made a mistake by doing anchor stock instead of regular planking. Do overs are always an option. There are some spaces in the planking. I will fill these with sanding powder using dilute white glue as a binder.
 
 
Some pictures below. My photography shows great ineptitude. My apologies.
 
I may have to do some deck furniture or deck planking to break up the tedium of the anchor stock work.

Hello everyone,
It's been a while since I posted in my own log. It seems that all the interesting stuff is happening else-ware and so are my posts.
 
I finally finished the first planking, filled the defects, sanded, filled the defects, sanded.....Then looking at AOS and the hull back and forth I found that the light ports were misplaced on the hull, Corrected this and filled and sanded. Seems that is my theme song. I am very well satisfied with the shape and fairness of the hull. It is nicely symmetrical port and starboard, the sheer is very good. It does have a slight twist in the stern. Hopefully when all is said and done this won't be so obvious. She does list a bit in the build board- just alittle loose
 
I liked the idea of putting a mortise on the thick plank just above the light ports. Cut the mortises on the table saw and glued this plank on port and starboard sided up to the bow bend. I have some timber soaking getting ready for the bow bending. This should be fun.
 
I am going to install the wales next with a 3/32 thick plank as the base and then do the anchor stock veneer in boxwood. This is if my test model of the wales comes out decently.
 
I want to lay individual planks and I think a 4 inch plank to simulate 20 feet should work. Please share any thoughts you have on any of the things I have mentioned. I want to say I am not too proud  to use any of the tricks that are posted in the forum.
 
Here are some pictures for today.
 
Have a great day!
 
 

2 more photos

Here are some photos of the first planking. As you can see, there is wood filler all over the second band. I find it useful to fill and sand as each band is completed. I get an earlier idea as to how the hull shape is developing and it allows for earlier correction of defects before they get out of hand.
 
Up to now, the tapering of the planks have been done by eye. Happily they have come out quite good. The symmetry of the hull is almost perfect.

Dave, the filler between bulk heads is a great idea. How do you prevent the forward bh from pushing the rear bh back?
 
Here come the photos I promised.
 
Some comments on the photos.
 
#1 Shows the placement of the light ports according to AOS.
#2 Shows that the hull is reasonably shaped and symmetrical.
#3 Shows the bow planking and the tapering of the planks. Corel says to use dropped planks. I think I can do it without them.
#4 Shows that the planking is fairly even up to this point.
#5 Shows the stern planking on the counter
#6 Shows the forward light port
#7 Is a top view showing the line of the bow fillers falls from the deck level
#8 is the broadside which shows a satisfactory sheer all long the ship
 
 
Please jump right in with comments or suggestions.
 
You can see some wood filler to help with some of the mistakes. I sand the planks every 2-3 levels. I find it gives a better result.
 
Now on to the lower hull.
 
Regards to all
Michael

Had to rip out the first 4 planks today. It seems that I looked at my completed hull framing from every direction except from the top. If I had, I would have seen that my bow filler blocks had chubby cheeks- a slight forward bulge that extended about 3 mm beyond a vertical dropped from the edge of the forward sub-deck. A little more carving and sanding by hand took care of this problem.
 
ATTENTION Corel Endeavour builders:
 
I will try to explain some of the more difficult/vague/incorrect instructions that I see in the Corel published instructions. I hope I can prevent some heartburn for you builders.
 
Pay particular attention to the placement of the 1st plank attached (26a) What the directions mean is the BOTTOM EDGE of the first plank aligns to the TOP EDGE of the false bridges (16). This should also give the plank a nice following of the deck sheer.
 
Using CA glue for planking. Now my fingers are CA covered. I will  wait for the end of planking before I clean them up.

Notes on the pictures (captions that didn't transfer over with pictures).
 
Bow blocks need a little filler at the bottom. The block of wood for carving the filler blocks  was a tad short. But the came out well. You really need to keep visualize the bow curve when you carve them. The solid block is a better foundation the  Corel  parts.
 
Very happy with the symmetry and sheer of the hull
 
Stern view has a slight list to port. This will be corrected when we build out the covering.

More Pictures

Photos

Hi Ron,
An outstanding model. I have never a fan of sails on a static model. But your model has made me rethink this,and,I may have to give sails a try on my Endeavour when the time comes
 
Regards

Another mistake! I just noticed that the forward channels are too far forward. You can see this in the forward portside photo in the previous post. You can't put the chain plate over a port. Ahhhhhhhhhhhh

Hi Ron,
An outstanding model. I have never a fan of sails on a static model. But your model has made me rethink this,and,I may have to give sails a try on my Endeavour when the time comes
 
Regards

Hi everyone,
Finally the rails, timberheads, gun ports and channels are all in place. Next up the stern.
 
Photo attached. Looks like my iPhone takes better pictures than my Canon camera.
 
Regards

Hello everyone,
Some more progress to report.
I seem to be taking two steps forward and one or two steps back trying to reconcile the Corel Endeavour with the AOS plans. I don't seem to have the vision needed yet to see when something is inconsistant. Hence, it is build, rip out and rebuild. I am totally in awe of the skills displayed by DAVEROW, DASHI, BANYAN, KIWIRON and others. I have had to reassess by expectations as my skills are nowhere near what you fellows display. It looks like I will have to be satisfied with a nicely built "representation" of HMB Endeavour.
 
Meanwhile, the work progresses, albeit slowly. Rails and timberheads are in on the forward part of the ship, anchor linings mounted, channels are installed in a rebate for added strength and painting continuously touched up. Also fabricated some more of the deck furnishings. Built the rudder and now have to add the cudgeons and pintles to the rudder and hull.
 
Some more pictures enclsoed
 
Regards to all.

Hi everyone,
Finally the rails, timberheads, gun ports and channels are all in place. Next up the stern.
 
Photo attached. Looks like my iPhone takes better pictures than my Canon camera.
 
Regards