lagrayjr

Hello,
Thank you very much for your interest in my work report.
I am very happy about the nice comments as well as the LIKES.
Today I show the progress on the foremast:

The whole structure is fully framed except above the toilet  door. Even if  I did not do any research, I see no reasons why this space would not be also fully frame, so I filled the void.
Even if a cannon ball would not be stopped by a frame, it surely would surely be slow down, especially that there is a big reunion room behind.
 
I replaced the dead laser guide. In addition to project 1 or 2 perpendicular lines horizontal and vertical it can also project a angular line 360 degrees and another tool is added to measure with greater ease the same elevation on both sides when tracing longitudinal lines outside or inside the hull; a laser to measure distance especially, the  vertical  ones.
 
An 8 feet long square batten, almost as thick as the planking,  is use to draw reference lines on the hull. Basically it is a straight line with both ends being higher than the middle. To get a regular curve at the front end, masking tape is use instead.

Work on the Fleuron continues.













 





 

Merci Messieurs for your compliments.
 
Rebalancing the frames
 
I did unglue few spacers more : about 1 side every  6 frames (represented by clamps on 1 picture).
Thanks to those who developped this method, it proves to be really effective.
The  keel was also reclamped  to help it to realign.
 
 1 other step has to be consider when assembling frames to help to reduce stress which can be then transmit to the keel. After the assembly job is completed, I think it is a good thing to check the keel assembly if there is any curve and if so it is a signal that some pressure must be release from the assembly by ungluing some spacers.
 
With the 74, a theoritical thickness of spacer between frames of 0,225’’, had to be reduce  of at least 0,01 to 0,215’’.  Still it was not enough, it had to reduce from the thickness of 1 spacer  divided between around 20 frames. So It would be around 0,205’’, this means almost 10% less. Is it too much???
 
The idea when assembling the frames is that the assembly must not to induce pressure to include spacers. If too much pressure is used, every thing will want to disassemble in 1000 parts nd this we do not want to see!

Thank you Deperdussin1910,
 
A lot of strengths are involved in this puzzle. It is difficult to well balanced everything. The keel was supposed to be straight but it was not. The first method to unglue some spacers between frames was to try to realign the keel with 2 by 4. It did unglue some and helped to realign. I will let everything stabilize and probably unglue some others. We also see how the planking fit on the keel. Limber holes has been traced lower than on drawings and cut.
  

 







 

Installation of spacers between frames, 2 rows in the bottom of the ship, each side of the keel.  Spacers are installed at the jonction of 2 parts. Tracing the line is made with a square plank  held on frames by metal clothes rack  bent in C shape, adjusted by a wedge.
 
Boudriot, volume 1 p. 132 : the form of the limber hole is rectangular and is located under the second planking (gabord or galbord : first one, ribord or vibord : the second one), except at both extremities. Joints between planks must not be over the limber holes to avoid obstruction by oakum (calfatage) and also at the end of the planks  where an iron plate is set. Above limber hole there is a removable plank (paraclose) for cleaning purposes. Pump feet are slightly above the channel. To prevent oakum aspiration from the pump, a wood veneer is inlaid in the foot  of the pump on thecorresponding frame.
 

Hi friends.
Thanks to all for the kind comments.
 
The stern prepared.
 
Karl
 
 
Part 2






 

Hi, another pictures

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 239 – Revisions - Spencer and Headsail Rigging
 
The running rigging described in the last two parts has been revised.  In the case of the spencer gaff the fall of the vang was obstructed by the outer boats on the skid beams.  To correct this, I added lead blocks to the forward topmast backstay and led the fall down to its pin through a fairlead on that stay.  The first picture shows the original configuration on the port side and the revision on the starboard side.
 

 
The revised rig retains the same eyebolt for the standing leg of the vang, which then passes through the block on the shortened pendant, then through the lead block and a fairlead, both on the forward topmast stay.  The fall then belays on the same pin as before.  The next picture shows the starboard lead block and fairlead.
 

 
The old rope coils and belaying were removed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A cotton swab soaked in isopropanol was laid on the rope for a few minutes to soften the wood glue. The rope was then easily removed.
 
The other revision involved the halyards on the three headsails.  I initially considered three typical configurations for these – no blocks, a single block whip from the deck, and a single block at the head of the sail.  I installed the first, simplest method as described in Part 238.  Shortly after installing these, I thought more about this and was concerned about no mechanical advantage on these rather large sails.  In checking (belatedly) the 1870's photo of the ship in New York, the blocks at the lower ends of the stays are clearly visible.  So, that configuration has now been installed on all three stays.  The foot of the topmast stay is shown in the next picture after revision.

This may be compared with the first photo in Part 238.  The revised lower rigging of the outer jib halyard is shown in the next picture.
 

To avoid re-rigging the downhaulers, the lower blocks were strapped to the shackle in place – a most difficult task, especially with shaky hands. The shackle eye was tied first, then the splice at the base of the block.  The inner jib stay at the left of the picture has not yet been converted. 
 
The upper ends of the stays are shown in the next picture with the standing ends of the halyards tied to the stays.
 

The last picture shows all three halyards converted.
 

So, we are now back on track after a short detour.
 
Ed

Hello,
Thanks to all for the interest and the nice comments.

To finish the lower masts I have to make the iron bands.
This I made from strips of brass sheet 0.3 mm. To attach the frontfishes there are two-piece hoops.

Hello,

today I show you only the result to the finished caps.

Hi Thomas,
thank you for your nice comment.
Thanks to all the others for the LIKES.
 
In the meantime I made the fittings for the Mainmast cap.
After all, these are a total of 30 parts.
The other pictures show the finished Mainmast cap in different views.




 

 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 238 – Head Sails Running Rigging
 
Each of the three stays described in Part 235 carries a triangular headsail.  Each of these sails is rigged with three lines of running rigging – a halyard to raise the head of the sail along the stay, a downhaul to bring the head down, and a double sheet to restrain the clew of the sail on the windward side.  When bent to the stay, the tack at the lower end of the sail is tied off low on the stay.  Then as the luff of the sail along the stay is secured with rope "hanks" the halyard is hauled up to raise the sail along the stay.  Both the halyard and the downhaul are shackled to the sails head cringle.  On the "unsailed" model, the halyard and downhaul eye splices are secured to the shackle, which is "stopped" to the lower end of the stay with a short length of rope as shown in the first picture at the base of the topmast stay.
 

 
In the picture the smaller downhaul is led down and through a single block back to its belaying point on the forecastle.  The next picture shows the lower ends of the inner and outer jib stays rigged in this manner.
 

 
The downhauls and halyards for the topmast staysail and outer jib lead back on the starboard side and those for the inner jib are rigged on the port side.  The next picture shows the three halyards where they pass through blocks hooked under the topmast trestletrees.
 

 
The lines lead down through fairleads in the top to the fife rails below.  The next picture shows the block arrangement at the topmast head, a double block on the starboard side for the staysail and outer jib halyards and a single block on the port side for the inner jib halyard.
 

 
The next picture shows the staysail and outer jib halyards belayed on the fore mast fife rail.
 

 
As will be seen in the next picture, the rope coils on the rails are quite small because the halyards are fully overhauled along the stay when there are no sails.
 

 
The next picture shows the belayed inner jib halyard on the port side.
 

 
Conversely, most of the downhauls must be coiled at the belaying points so sufficient line will be available to run up to the head of the sails when they are hauled up to the tops of the stays, so the three large coils in the next picture contain sufficient line for that.
 

 
Finally, the sheets – a pair for each sail.  These are shackled to eyebolts on either side of the forecastle, run through bullet blocks at the ends of a double pendant shackled to the clue of each sail, and belay on cleats on the forecastle breast beam.  One side or the other is used, with the lee side slack.  On the unsailed model, I have omitted the pendants and intend to coil each sheet adjacent to its eyebolt as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The picture shows the starboard sheet for the topmast staysail secured to its eyebolt.  When passed through the pendant block on this side, this line would be belayed on the innermost cleat on the breast beam. Eyebolts for the other head sails are arranged to the left on the rail, astride the mooring cleat.
 
Ed
 

Little progress - making and instalation of belaying pins.

Anchors and anchor buyos - the anchors are made from three parts soldered together.

To gorington: The caulking is simulated with black paper glued to the planks.
Steering whell - the quarter deck is finished.

last update....
 
today the KWdG went into it`s glass case in my hobby room....
The shelf was lowered a bit in order to compensate the case hight, an with the admirals help the glass surfaces were cleaned inside / outside before closing the bonet and everthing was fitted into position. This now closes the project...
 
Nils

On the pictures, we see the control plank for perpendicularity in 2 ways. Others are sanding setups for all the curves.
 
The main 2 ways to assemble frames to the keel use a jig to align the frames between them:
 
- a plank supports the frame contour. Frames are assembled upside down as Hahn did or reverse.
 
-Frames alignment can also be done another way; with  just a baguette to align frames. This baguette moves  the same way as the assembly goes.
 
The other part of this assembly is the frame sanding. Again, there are 2 ways to do the sanding : the easy way and the hard way.
 
When a jig is used to support frames, most of the sanding will be done after gluing all the frames and after taking the frames out of the mold. This method is much more restrictive because the accessibility to all the frame parts is restricted when it is in the mold.
 
The other method has the advantage of ease of maneuverability in all the ways you need. Sanding is much more easy, at least for a model at 1/24 scale. Part  which need to be sanded can easily be position. Also another very important part : height adjusting table. Working at the good height is often the difference between holding a heavy part easily or with much difficulty.
 

Another photo
 

Good morning
Sternson

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 232 – Fore Topmast Crosstrees 3
 
The first picture shows one of the fore topgallant futtock shrouds being lashed to the band below the fore topmast crosstrees. 
 

 
Although they are fitted to the topmast, these shrouds are part of the topgallant shrouds above – hence the somewhat confusing naming.  Each lashing is first tied to the eye, then passed through the eyebolt and eye three times, and then wrapped around itself in the center with a series of clove hitches.  The clove hitches are an effective way to do this on these small lashings – and easier than wrapping a lot of turns while trying to keep the lashing from rotating while still making the turns tight.  The difference is virtually undetectable on these small black lashings.  The next picture shows the four futtock shrouds lashed in place.
 

 
 
With these installed the topmast may be permanently fitted.  The next picture shows the lower end of the installed mast.
 

 
The mast fid is down on the iron plates and a filler piece has been fitted at the forward face to fix the bottom and keep the mast aligned.  Although not strictly necessary, the mast was glued at this point and at the cap.
 
The first piece of rigging to go over the mast is the fish tackle pendant.  This long pendant was used to suspend the triple purchase tackle that was used to lift and handle the anchors.  The pendant is therefore a heavy 8" rope.  It is served around the seized masthead collar.  The lower end has an eye splice with a thimble at its foot
 

 
 The large upper block of the tackle will be hooked through this thimble.  In the picture the pendant is temporarily held taught by some black thread.
 
After the fish tackle, the topmast shrouds are put over the masthead.  In the next picture the shrouds have been placed and held at the foretop with clamps.
 
 

As with the lower shrouds the forward shrouds are fully served.  Serving on the others extends around the mast to just below the futtock shrouds.  The two forward shrouds are a single line that loops over the mast and is seized below the bolsters.  The aft shrouds are single, with a single eye splice served down to the futtock shrouds.  All these collars and eyes are parceled down to the seizings.  The next picture shows a closer view of this.
 

 
Next to go over are the topmast backstays, a pair on each side.  The collars of these are also served and parceled down to the collar seizings.  They are clamped at the channels in the next picture.
 

 
These are large 10½" lines, a looped pair on each side.  The last picture shows the parceling of these before the parceling is "tarred" with black artist's acrylic paint.
 

 
They were removed for this painting after tying the seizings.  With all these lines secured at the top, the next step is to fix them to their deadeyes at the lower ends.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 231 – Fore Topmast Crosstrees 2
 
After the last post, I explained the drawing revisions at the foot of the fore topmast, specifically the dimensioning of the square heeling.  The first picture shows this part of the mast positioned on the trestle trees of the fore top. 
 

 
The bottom of the topmast is about 1" lower than the lower faces of the 18" deep trestle trees when the fid is down on the top faces.  The height of the sheave is not a critical dimension, but must be above the square section so the hoisting line will pass inside the square opening when the mast is raised.  One of the eyebolts on the underside of the cap would have been used to support the lifting tackle.
 
In the next picture the crosstrees have been permanently attached to the mast and the four deadeyes for the topgallant shrouds have been fitted but not yet blackened.
 

 
These 8" deadeyes will secure the 5" shrouds above and the same-sized topgallant futtock shrouds below.  The naming of these futtock shrouds that are installed as part of the topmast is a constant source of confusion to me, but I think I have finally cemented it into my mind.  In the next picture the deadeye straps have been blackened and the masthead has been fitted with its trim.
 

 
The battens are very small and will be covered by the rigging collars.  The cleats on either side will support a bullseye for the main royal stay.  Before installing the topmast, the topgallant futtock shrouds were installed.  As with those under the top, these are hooked through the deadeye straps at the top and lashed to eyebolts in the futtock band at their feet.  I have attached some pictures showing the method I am using to form the eye splices in the served shrouds.  In the first picture a small hook has been formed and threaded with the served 5" line.
 

 
The serving at the end is kept from unraveling with a drop of CA.  I am trying to limit the use of CA to non-permanent applications like this - except for the attachment of metal parts, like eyebolts, to wood.  The line was then seized at the throat of the splice with fine cotton thread with a tight overhand knot.  In the next picture darkened wood glue has been applied in the area of the splice.
 

 
The glued area was first wetted to help the glue penetrate through the serving.  The glue joint was then clamped with the modified alligator clamp shown in the picture   The jaws of this clamp have been filled with epoxy sculpting material to form a round clamping hole shown between the jaws.  When the glue has dried the excess rope was cut from the joint with a sharp knife as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The cut is made to form the taper of the splice.  The purpose of the glue is only to hold the joint together to allow wrapping of serving down to the bottom of the splice.  The glued serving will hold the splice together.  The finished splice is shown in the next picture.
 

 
Finishing with a smoothly tapered splice at this scale can be a challenge, but after glue is applied to seal the added serving, some crimping may be done to eliminate bumps.  Removing the excess serving without leaving short stubs is also a challenge.  This is done after the glue dries.
 
In the next picture the hook has been blackened and temporarily fitted to its strap so the length to the eye at the other end may be measured as shown in the picture.
 

 
An eye is formed at the lower end by the same method but without the hook.  The lashing of these lower ends will be described in the next part.
 
 
Ed

Hello,
thank you for the comments and, of course, for the LIKES as well. 
 
Today, I present a small update.
The cap for the Mizen mast and the Cheeks still had to be equipped with fittings.
Here are some pictures. I hope you like them..
 

Continuation.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel
 
 

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end