Angarfather

Hi Bill,
 
amazing how well you thought about the hinge positions, you are reflecting exactly my own thoughts this morning, The only reason for "hinges on top" was for the pattern shown on the card KWdG in scale 1:250. which I sometimes use for checking dimensions... I also asked myself if it were not better to place the hinges at the bottom. I remembered the pic of bunkering at Hoboken, where the the liner seems to have the hatch covers in two doorhalves that each swing open to 180 °, this allowing the coal funnels to be set in quite easily, in case they were not built in
 

 
here hinges on top, but it may be wrong, who knows ?
 
Nils

Hello everyone and thanks for your comments and likes, it's always much appreciated.
 
Thanks Gunther, my wife is of the same opinion 
 
@ Mark T. Thank you as well and rusty is good - I think    I had a wild idea to file the round brass wire flat to simulate wrought iron straps but where do I end detailing this thing to the nth degree   I'll dunk it back in the straight stuff to darken it some more.  However, I plan on ordering some of the other solutions and see if they work better.
 
Thanks Patrick, All the comments from everyone is very encouraging - - - as you know.
 
Hey Popeye, good to hear from you again. Yeah, I should have had my head examined making the gunport lids workable.  Once they are on and the model is in it's glass house it's a moot point.  But - - - it was a challenge to me to see if it can be done at this scale.  In retrospect it was more trouble then worth the effort.
 
Okay, I have been able to install all but one of the lids and even painted tem flat black.  Could not do the blackening in-situ because of contamination of glue.  Perhaps should have done the blackening before cementing them on - - hind side again.   I had trouble with the CA and even the 2 part epoxy to secure the gudgeons to the lids.  I have no idea why they gave me such a headache but in the end they stayed put with the epoxy cement.  
The one lid I need to remake the pintles and go through the whole process again.  That'll have to wait for another day - - - I need to calm my nerves
 
I took a photo of the port side for yuns to see and comment on.  There is still a lot of clean-up and touch-up work to do including repainting the green to a more authentic color from the mid 17th century. Yeah Hans, I haven't forgotten.
 

 
Cheers,
 
 

Main mast and its sail are (almost) ready. Some better pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

ere is a little update.
 
I have the transom again revised. Because of the strong grain of the wood the planks angle is barely visible. As said earlier, I will represent the caulking after grinding. Overall, it's an entirely different matter 2mm thick planks to shape and install. In my other models I have double planked hulk. And the plank thickness was only 0.75 mm.
 
Here the current results of the work
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

ere is a little update.
 
I have the transom again revised. Because of the strong grain of the wood the planks angle is barely visible. As said earlier, I will represent the caulking after grinding. Overall, it's an entirely different matter 2mm thick planks to shape and install. In my other models I have double planked hulk. And the plank thickness was only 0.75 mm.
 
Here the current results of the work
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

ere is a little update.
 
I have the transom again revised. Because of the strong grain of the wood the planks angle is barely visible. As said earlier, I will represent the caulking after grinding. Overall, it's an entirely different matter 2mm thick planks to shape and install. In my other models I have double planked hulk. And the plank thickness was only 0.75 mm.
 
Here the current results of the work
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Modelling the wales.
 
To determine the location of the main wale I did use a copy of the sheer profile plan. 
 

 
The location of the main wale
 

 
This copy was the base for modelling the wales. 
 

 
I wasn't able to bend the bow parts of the wales, about it I have made it by sawing. I bend the long parts of the wales and later on the planks after immersing it in water. For the heat I use a soldering iron with a surface designed for bemding modelplanks
 

 
The distanz between the main and lower wale is one plank. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Keel and stems are in place.   There were some pieces of wood, therefore I have made the rudder of it.
 

 
sawn
 

 
sanded
 

 
Next step was to mortise the  timber transoms in place, and planking the square tuck. In addition, this work should be made well before planking.
 

 
to model the Wing transom was a nice and fiddly job.
 

 
The finished square tuck
 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

ere is a little update.
 
I have the transom again revised. Because of the strong grain of the wood the planks angle is barely visible. As said earlier, I will represent the caulking after grinding. Overall, it's an entirely different matter 2mm thick planks to shape and install. In my other models I have double planked hulk. And the plank thickness was only 0.75 mm.
 
Here the current results of the work
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

ere is a little update.
 
I have the transom again revised. Because of the strong grain of the wood the planks angle is barely visible. As said earlier, I will represent the caulking after grinding. Overall, it's an entirely different matter 2mm thick planks to shape and install. In my other models I have double planked hulk. And the plank thickness was only 0.75 mm.
 
Here the current results of the work
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

ere is a little update.
 
I have the transom again revised. Because of the strong grain of the wood the planks angle is barely visible. As said earlier, I will represent the caulking after grinding. Overall, it's an entirely different matter 2mm thick planks to shape and install. In my other models I have double planked hulk. And the plank thickness was only 0.75 mm.
 
Here the current results of the work
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

ere is a little update.
 
I have the transom again revised. Because of the strong grain of the wood the planks angle is barely visible. As said earlier, I will represent the caulking after grinding. Overall, it's an entirely different matter 2mm thick planks to shape and install. In my other models I have double planked hulk. And the plank thickness was only 0.75 mm.
 
Here the current results of the work
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Modelling the wales.
 
To determine the location of the main wale I did use a copy of the sheer profile plan. 
 

 
The location of the main wale
 

 
This copy was the base for modelling the wales. 
 

 
I wasn't able to bend the bow parts of the wales, about it I have made it by sawing. I bend the long parts of the wales and later on the planks after immersing it in water. For the heat I use a soldering iron with a surface designed for bemding modelplanks
 

 
The distanz between the main and lower wale is one plank. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Modelling the wales.
 
To determine the location of the main wale I did use a copy of the sheer profile plan. 
 

 
The location of the main wale
 

 
This copy was the base for modelling the wales. 
 

 
I wasn't able to bend the bow parts of the wales, about it I have made it by sawing. I bend the long parts of the wales and later on the planks after immersing it in water. For the heat I use a soldering iron with a surface designed for bemding modelplanks
 

 
The distanz between the main and lower wale is one plank. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Modelling the wales.
 
To determine the location of the main wale I did use a copy of the sheer profile plan. 
 

 
The location of the main wale
 

 
This copy was the base for modelling the wales. 
 

 
I wasn't able to bend the bow parts of the wales, about it I have made it by sawing. I bend the long parts of the wales and later on the planks after immersing it in water. For the heat I use a soldering iron with a surface designed for bemding modelplanks
 

 
The distanz between the main and lower wale is one plank. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Modelling the wales.
 
To determine the location of the main wale I did use a copy of the sheer profile plan. 
 

 
The location of the main wale
 

 
This copy was the base for modelling the wales. 
 

 
I wasn't able to bend the bow parts of the wales, about it I have made it by sawing. I bend the long parts of the wales and later on the planks after immersing it in water. For the heat I use a soldering iron with a surface designed for bemding modelplanks
 

 
The distanz between the main and lower wale is one plank. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Modelling the wales.
 
To determine the location of the main wale I did use a copy of the sheer profile plan. 
 

 
The location of the main wale
 

 
This copy was the base for modelling the wales. 
 

 
I wasn't able to bend the bow parts of the wales, about it I have made it by sawing. I bend the long parts of the wales and later on the planks after immersing it in water. For the heat I use a soldering iron with a surface designed for bemding modelplanks
 

 
The distanz between the main and lower wale is one plank. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Modelling the wales.
 
To determine the location of the main wale I did use a copy of the sheer profile plan. 
 

 
The location of the main wale
 

 
This copy was the base for modelling the wales. 
 

 
I wasn't able to bend the bow parts of the wales, about it I have made it by sawing. I bend the long parts of the wales and later on the planks after immersing it in water. For the heat I use a soldering iron with a surface designed for bemding modelplanks
 

 
The distanz between the main and lower wale is one plank. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Modelling the wales.
 
To determine the location of the main wale I did use a copy of the sheer profile plan. 
 

 
The location of the main wale
 

 
This copy was the base for modelling the wales. 
 

 
I wasn't able to bend the bow parts of the wales, about it I have made it by sawing. I bend the long parts of the wales and later on the planks after immersing it in water. For the heat I use a soldering iron with a surface designed for bemding modelplanks
 

 
The distanz between the main and lower wale is one plank. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Keel and stems are in place.   There were some pieces of wood, therefore I have made the rudder of it.
 

 
sawn
 

 
sanded
 

 
Next step was to mortise the  timber transoms in place, and planking the square tuck. In addition, this work should be made well before planking.
 

 
to model the Wing transom was a nice and fiddly job.
 

 
The finished square tuck
 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Keel and stems are in place.   There were some pieces of wood, therefore I have made the rudder of it.
 

 
sawn
 

 
sanded
 

 
Next step was to mortise the  timber transoms in place, and planking the square tuck. In addition, this work should be made well before planking.
 

 
to model the Wing transom was a nice and fiddly job.
 

 
The finished square tuck
 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

@Amateur  Thank you for the picture. I will represent the right direction of the planks after grinding by incised lines.
 
Cheers Hartmut

Hi Mateus,
 
Thanks for your post.
The angle of the planking was taken differntly according to the sources known to me. In the 16. and 17. century and at larger ships the shipwrights have taken that in the way you drew it. At the Staatenjachts especialy in the 18. century are angle from 15/20 degrees to perpendicular in the historic drawings to be seen. At the replica Utrecht is it approximativ 8 degrees, and in Dr.MacArdles drawings perpendicular. Espacially at the Staatenjachts it seems to be rather an aestheticle as an constructiv
element.
 
Kindly Hartmut

@Amateur  Thank you for the picture. I will represent the right direction of the planks after grinding by incised lines.
 
Cheers Hartmut

Hi Mateus,
 
Thanks for your post.
The angle of the planking was taken differntly according to the sources known to me. In the 16. and 17. century and at larger ships the shipwrights have taken that in the way you drew it. At the Staatenjachts especialy in the 18. century are angle from 15/20 degrees to perpendicular in the historic drawings to be seen. At the replica Utrecht is it approximativ 8 degrees, and in Dr.MacArdles drawings perpendicular. Espacially at the Staatenjachts it seems to be rather an aestheticle as an constructiv
element.
 
Kindly Hartmut