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vossy
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vossy got a reaction from thibaultron in I thought I knew
The Mastini book is gold! If you can get it do so.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from mtaylor in Straightening thin brass wire
Thanks Pat. We have a local hobby shop here which I reckon I have seen the rods in question.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from mtaylor in Straightening thin brass wire
Thanks for the response everyone. Unfortunately nothing I have tried works to my satisfaction. This brass wire is way too thick and non-pliable to stretch or roll etc. Once the temperature drops below 40c here, if it ever does, I think I will take Mark's tip and go to the local hobby shop to source some straight rods. My other thought was maybe a very thin chain through the stanchions instead? The constant heat here will doubtless give me plenty of time to mull over the choice.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy reacted to hornet in Straightening thin brass wire
Thin brass rod from 1mm and upward in diameter is available on EBay. I’ve found it to be useful for a variety of applications. Usually comes in a pack of 5 & lengths of 300mm
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vossy got a reaction from Canute in Straightening thin brass wire
Thanks Pat. We have a local hobby shop here which I reckon I have seen the rods in question.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from Canute in Straightening thin brass wire
Thanks for the response everyone. Unfortunately nothing I have tried works to my satisfaction. This brass wire is way too thick and non-pliable to stretch or roll etc. Once the temperature drops below 40c here, if it ever does, I think I will take Mark's tip and go to the local hobby shop to source some straight rods. My other thought was maybe a very thin chain through the stanchions instead? The constant heat here will doubtless give me plenty of time to mull over the choice.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy reacted to BANYAN in Straightening thin brass wire
Vossy, Hobby Tools Australia in Melbourne stocks K&S wire and posts out very quickly
cheers
Pat
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vossy reacted to ccoyle in I thought I knew
Froggy,
One of the best (and cheapest!) things you can do, in all seriousness, is head to your local library and look for ship modeling books. Back in my starting-out days, I was pleasantly surprised by what they had on the shelves. And the staff could easily get other books through their inter-library loan system. Read all you can get your hands on. As primers, look for Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini and Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. Neither of these books should be considered completely authoritative on all matters ship modeling, but they are easy reads, profusely illustrated, and relatively widely available. They'll get your appetite whetted.
Cheers from your neighbor up the I-85 corridor!
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vossy got a reaction from mtaylor in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80
Hi Anna, I would start by using 80 grit sandpaper to give the hull a good sand by hand. Don't use power sanders unless you are very skilled with them as they can, and will, remove more than you want to. Once the hull has been sanded you need to fill in any large gaps and attain the correct flowing hull shape for the final planking to cover. To do this you may need to fill and sand a few times to form the correct shape. During this process I would suggest you use 120 grit sandpaper. Everyone will have their own method of sanding, whether using blocks etc. I tend to just fold the paper and hand sand it. This way I can sort of feel the curve as well as see it. When you are happy with the hull shape, give it a final sand with 240 grit paper. Note how we have progressively gone from quite course to very fine paper. Finally, depending upon the type of filler you applied you may need/want to brush a clear coat on it so the subsequent glue on the covering planks has a good surface to bond to. I don't tend to do this as the filler I use doesn't require me too, but I know of some very good builders on this site that do. So as with many things in this hobby there are many ways to skin a cat. Or plank a boat.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from mtaylor in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80
G'day Anna, elastic bands (rubber bands), make great temporary holding clamps. They conform to pretty much every shape and are cheap as chips. As Eric has said, once the wood has dried it will hold its shape enough to allow gluing. Again, I usually use elastic bands to further hold the piece whilst the glue sets. As for you bow section on your hull; it wont be too expensive to buy some more thin strips to put another layer of planking over what you have done. If you choose to do so, firstly sand and fill the entire hull to achieve a nice flowing curvature toward the bow and stern (front and back). Give it a nice sand, and you will find you now have a really nice surface to apply a final planking layer which will look first class. Also, try not to use nails unless you want them to be seen. On my current build you can see where I have deliberately put exposed nail heads on the blades of the paddle to simulate large bolts. I will do this to a few more larger structural pieces to further simulate what I think may have been seen on the real vessel.
Overall, your vessel is coming along very nicely and you should be very proud. I will continue to follow along with interest. Good luck.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from Old Collingwood in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80
G'day Anna, elastic bands (rubber bands), make great temporary holding clamps. They conform to pretty much every shape and are cheap as chips. As Eric has said, once the wood has dried it will hold its shape enough to allow gluing. Again, I usually use elastic bands to further hold the piece whilst the glue sets. As for you bow section on your hull; it wont be too expensive to buy some more thin strips to put another layer of planking over what you have done. If you choose to do so, firstly sand and fill the entire hull to achieve a nice flowing curvature toward the bow and stern (front and back). Give it a nice sand, and you will find you now have a really nice surface to apply a final planking layer which will look first class. Also, try not to use nails unless you want them to be seen. On my current build you can see where I have deliberately put exposed nail heads on the blades of the paddle to simulate large bolts. I will do this to a few more larger structural pieces to further simulate what I think may have been seen on the real vessel.
Overall, your vessel is coming along very nicely and you should be very proud. I will continue to follow along with interest. Good luck.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from Cathead in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80
G'day Anna, elastic bands (rubber bands), make great temporary holding clamps. They conform to pretty much every shape and are cheap as chips. As Eric has said, once the wood has dried it will hold its shape enough to allow gluing. Again, I usually use elastic bands to further hold the piece whilst the glue sets. As for you bow section on your hull; it wont be too expensive to buy some more thin strips to put another layer of planking over what you have done. If you choose to do so, firstly sand and fill the entire hull to achieve a nice flowing curvature toward the bow and stern (front and back). Give it a nice sand, and you will find you now have a really nice surface to apply a final planking layer which will look first class. Also, try not to use nails unless you want them to be seen. On my current build you can see where I have deliberately put exposed nail heads on the blades of the paddle to simulate large bolts. I will do this to a few more larger structural pieces to further simulate what I think may have been seen on the real vessel.
Overall, your vessel is coming along very nicely and you should be very proud. I will continue to follow along with interest. Good luck.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from popeye the sailor in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80
G'day Anna, elastic bands (rubber bands), make great temporary holding clamps. They conform to pretty much every shape and are cheap as chips. As Eric has said, once the wood has dried it will hold its shape enough to allow gluing. Again, I usually use elastic bands to further hold the piece whilst the glue sets. As for you bow section on your hull; it wont be too expensive to buy some more thin strips to put another layer of planking over what you have done. If you choose to do so, firstly sand and fill the entire hull to achieve a nice flowing curvature toward the bow and stern (front and back). Give it a nice sand, and you will find you now have a really nice surface to apply a final planking layer which will look first class. Also, try not to use nails unless you want them to be seen. On my current build you can see where I have deliberately put exposed nail heads on the blades of the paddle to simulate large bolts. I will do this to a few more larger structural pieces to further simulate what I think may have been seen on the real vessel.
Overall, your vessel is coming along very nicely and you should be very proud. I will continue to follow along with interest. Good luck.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from Canute in Straightening thin brass wire
Thanks Ken, Steve. Here are a few pics to further show my problem. No way can I pull the wire straight using a vice and pliers, and the 2 metal ruler method does zip as well. Reckon I may need some sort of heat source perhaps?
So what I am trying to do is make the horizontal brass rails as shown in the last picture. What I currently have is this. I have tried pulling, clamping, rolling, stretching etc. to no avail. The wire remains warped and frankly unusable. The picture here is the offending item under a stock standard grey lead pencil for some sort of scale.
Nice straight rails.
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vossy got a reaction from thibaultron in Straightening thin brass wire
Thanks Ken, Steve. Here are a few pics to further show my problem. No way can I pull the wire straight using a vice and pliers, and the 2 metal ruler method does zip as well. Reckon I may need some sort of heat source perhaps?
So what I am trying to do is make the horizontal brass rails as shown in the last picture. What I currently have is this. I have tried pulling, clamping, rolling, stretching etc. to no avail. The wire remains warped and frankly unusable. The picture here is the offending item under a stock standard grey lead pencil for some sort of scale.
Nice straight rails.
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vossy got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Straightening thin brass wire
Thanks Ken, Steve. Here are a few pics to further show my problem. No way can I pull the wire straight using a vice and pliers, and the 2 metal ruler method does zip as well. Reckon I may need some sort of heat source perhaps?
So what I am trying to do is make the horizontal brass rails as shown in the last picture. What I currently have is this. I have tried pulling, clamping, rolling, stretching etc. to no avail. The wire remains warped and frankly unusable. The picture here is the offending item under a stock standard grey lead pencil for some sort of scale.
Nice straight rails.
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vossy got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Mississippi 1870 by vossy - Sergal - 1:50 - Riverboat
Upper Port side staircase. Not 100% happy with this, but it is what it is. I maybe able to deflect eyes from
it via cunning methods elsewhere. Anyway, the Port side is always my "test" side so I hope to do better
on the Starboard. All mistakes are my own and not the kits or manufacturer.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from lmagna in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80
G'day Anna, elastic bands (rubber bands), make great temporary holding clamps. They conform to pretty much every shape and are cheap as chips. As Eric has said, once the wood has dried it will hold its shape enough to allow gluing. Again, I usually use elastic bands to further hold the piece whilst the glue sets. As for you bow section on your hull; it wont be too expensive to buy some more thin strips to put another layer of planking over what you have done. If you choose to do so, firstly sand and fill the entire hull to achieve a nice flowing curvature toward the bow and stern (front and back). Give it a nice sand, and you will find you now have a really nice surface to apply a final planking layer which will look first class. Also, try not to use nails unless you want them to be seen. On my current build you can see where I have deliberately put exposed nail heads on the blades of the paddle to simulate large bolts. I will do this to a few more larger structural pieces to further simulate what I think may have been seen on the real vessel.
Overall, your vessel is coming along very nicely and you should be very proud. I will continue to follow along with interest. Good luck.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy reacted to mtaylor in Straightening thin brass wire
Most hobby shops carry brass wire rods and tubes for the RC folks. Probably pricier than a roll but they usually are straight.
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vossy got a reaction from mtaylor in Straightening thin brass wire
Thanks Ken, Steve. Here are a few pics to further show my problem. No way can I pull the wire straight using a vice and pliers, and the 2 metal ruler method does zip as well. Reckon I may need some sort of heat source perhaps?
So what I am trying to do is make the horizontal brass rails as shown in the last picture. What I currently have is this. I have tried pulling, clamping, rolling, stretching etc. to no avail. The wire remains warped and frankly unusable. The picture here is the offending item under a stock standard grey lead pencil for some sort of scale.
Nice straight rails.
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vossy reacted to Anna in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80
Hi everyone
I couldnt work on the ship last week because i had a little box cutter incident! Box cutter 1 - my thumb 0. (its okay now!)
Today I worked on the second deck!
(the front wood piece bending will have to wait till next week when i buy some clamps)
It always amazes me how much time goed into these planking parts! But it is very relaxing
Next i started bending the thin wood ( soaked it in hot water and this worked perfectly). However i decided to use nails to keep it at place because I didnt think glue would work on moist wood?
I added plank to these pieces to and added them to the rest.
SNOW bonus picture
Next step will be to add the windows and doors. After that i can start on the paddle-wheels and staircases!
As always let me know if you see any improvement points, have tips, advice etc!
Anna
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vossy got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Mississippi 1870 by vossy - Sergal - 1:50 - Riverboat
Upper Port side staircase. Not 100% happy with this, but it is what it is. I maybe able to deflect eyes from
it via cunning methods elsewhere. Anyway, the Port side is always my "test" side so I hope to do better
on the Starboard. All mistakes are my own and not the kits or manufacturer.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from Anna in Mississippi 1870 by vossy - Sergal - 1:50 - Riverboat
Upper Port side staircase. Not 100% happy with this, but it is what it is. I maybe able to deflect eyes from
it via cunning methods elsewhere. Anyway, the Port side is always my "test" side so I hope to do better
on the Starboard. All mistakes are my own and not the kits or manufacturer.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from leclaire in Mississippi 1870 by vossy - Sergal - 1:50 - Riverboat
Upper Port side staircase. Not 100% happy with this, but it is what it is. I maybe able to deflect eyes from
it via cunning methods elsewhere. Anyway, the Port side is always my "test" side so I hope to do better
on the Starboard. All mistakes are my own and not the kits or manufacturer.
Cheers
Chris
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vossy got a reaction from cog in Mississippi 1870 by vossy - Sergal - 1:50 - Riverboat
Upper Port side staircase. Not 100% happy with this, but it is what it is. I maybe able to deflect eyes from
it via cunning methods elsewhere. Anyway, the Port side is always my "test" side so I hope to do better
on the Starboard. All mistakes are my own and not the kits or manufacturer.
Cheers
Chris
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