vossy

Over to the other side and up the learning curve.  On this side I did two things:  (i) Drilled out the holes in advance, and (ii) Used my super bright LED headlamp so I could see the holes clearly as I was installing the rungs.
 
Worked better.  The first picture reflects all of the skipping of the drill bit on the metal surface.  The second one, now painted, shows the "glue globs" between the rungs.  So I took a needle file to it and cleaned it up (third picture) as best I could.  As they say, "It is what it is."
 
I only have enough rungs left to do three ladders on each side.  My loss rate decreased but was still greater than zero.  So now I'll go back to the other side and add the third ladder, and paint it.
 
There are also some very small eyebolts and keybolts that have been added.  Not sure if you can see them or not.
 
Regards,
David
 

I'm applying the ladders to the external hull at the stern.  The way Amati has designed this is that you do it rung by rung, into pre-drilled holes in the brass plate at the stern.
 
The issue is that the rungs are fiendishly small.  So they are very difficult to grip with tweezers, and of course, they pop out of the tweezers.  If that happens, they are almost impossible to find on the floor or even on the workbench.  As part of my learning curve I've now put a white paper towel under the stern area, and if they pop out onto that you can see them.
 
But I've lost 6 already, and so I'm down to 2 spares to cover the remaining ladders.
 
What you see is the two ladders I've done on one side.  As you can also see, there are holes for two more on this side for a total of four on a side.  Counting what I have left,  if I don't lose anything else, I could make it with two spares left.  But not confident in that.  So I'm going to flip the model and do these two ladders on the other side.  That will leave four to go.  I'll do two (one on each side), and then assess my technique and spares supply to see if I can do the last one.
 
One thing that helps is to drill out the holes.  Then put in the rung without glue, then drop on some glue.  Slow going as you have to wait for the glue to dry, or use accelerator.
 
So now I'll attack the same two ladders on the other side and see if I've learned anything, and I'll report about that.
 
Regards,
David

More progress on the stern decoration and quarter galley windows. Rudder next I think.
 
 

More progress on the stern decoration and quarter galley windows. Rudder next I think.
 
 

ok need a bit of advice here  hope someone can help  it appears there are zero build logs on the beginning of this model
 
in case I muck up the uploading of files again!!!! I will ask the question and just hope the pics come through. Do I need to add any more horizontal first planks to Bounty's stern area? Or should I now just keep going with the first planking layer on the sides and sweep them up to meet the stern area as it currently is?
 
cheers chris
 
 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 
Hopefully that worked
 
 

maybe this will work
 
they wanted me to plank the deck in walnut in the kit  too dark so I bought new limewood strips and stained them light maple
 
 

:piratebo5:ok so I thought I would begin a log on the Bounty as their are very few around. I have viewed david's and roman's build of this great vessel a zillion times and hope to do them justice with this effort. due to my interstate work commitments updates maybe somewhat spasmodic but I will do my best. please be forewarned I'm no Damien Parer with a camera though!  am going to bypass the usual pics of box contents etc and get into the nitty gritty. here goes.....
 
 
 
I always use filler blocks  its a little known fact that God created Balsa wood to specifically stop model ship builders from abandoning the project at this stage
 
 
 
 
 
and on the stern
 
 
ok heaps more to come just need to see if this worked before posting more.
 
cheers vossy
 
 

Next to the boat deck, so many little pieces, but I finally got the funnels done today 

More progress on the stern decoration and quarter galley windows. Rudder next I think.
 
 

These brass pieces go into cutouts previously installed in the hull.  They are meant to represent vents, I think.
 
They will be painted over with the red-brown that's used on the lower part of the hull.
 
Regards,
David
 

ok need a bit of advice here  hope someone can help  it appears there are zero build logs on the beginning of this model
 
in case I muck up the uploading of files again!!!! I will ask the question and just hope the pics come through. Do I need to add any more horizontal first planks to Bounty's stern area? Or should I now just keep going with the first planking layer on the sides and sweep them up to meet the stern area as it currently is?
 
cheers chris
 
 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 
Hopefully that worked
 
 

maybe this will work
 
they wanted me to plank the deck in walnut in the kit  too dark so I bought new limewood strips and stained them light maple
 
 

:piratebo5:ok so I thought I would begin a log on the Bounty as their are very few around. I have viewed david's and roman's build of this great vessel a zillion times and hope to do them justice with this effort. due to my interstate work commitments updates maybe somewhat spasmodic but I will do my best. please be forewarned I'm no Damien Parer with a camera though!  am going to bypass the usual pics of box contents etc and get into the nitty gritty. here goes.....
 
 
 
I always use filler blocks  its a little known fact that God created Balsa wood to specifically stop model ship builders from abandoning the project at this stage
 
 
 
 
 
and on the stern
 
 
ok heaps more to come just need to see if this worked before posting more.
 
cheers vossy
 
 

Hopefully not too late to revive this log. I have been working on this ship for a few since the last update. Sorry for my absence. 
 
Anyway here are a few pics in her current state. I must say, this particular kit isn't for the faint hearted. But I think it will eventually make a pretty nice model.
 
Borrowed the color scheme from a build of the same kit by Navis Factorium (hope I got that right?) I liked the colors better than the box art.
 
My camera skills still haven't improved and as per usual, high definition pics show a lot of errors. But in real life I am very happy with how this is turning out.
 
 
 

What you see here represents about 5 coats of paint, and a bunch of follow-up puttying and sanding.  I have a few comments about this hull structure:
 
From a distance (full hull picture) it doesn't look too bad, especially in the lighting I'll have it shelved on (I tested that).  You'll note that I didn't finish the bottom as that's going to be red-brown below the waterline.  
But up close, the brass plates at bow and stern are troublesome.  Try as I might (and we have to acknowledge the limits of my woodworking skills) I couldn't get them to "disappear".  Again, from a distance they don't look too bad.  But if I had it to do all over again, I'd be tempted to skip the brass plates and second plank right over where they are, to give a uniform look, and then use the brass plates as templates to drill the portholes.  
I think I'll give bow and stern one more coat of paint, as that seems to help them "disappear".  
Regards,
David

Second planking done; sealed with a coat of varnish, then putty applied.  I took this against a gray background so you can see the putty.
 
Now a first coat of paint, and we'll see where the imperfections really are.  I'm going to brush coat this -- it's too big for my spray booth, and it's too cold outside spray it in the garage.
 
Regards,
David

So my 8mm tape won’t arrive until after Xmas. Bugger. Anyways, threw the ships barges together and masked the rear end of the hull. 

Maybe out of left field, but how about taking it to a jewellers?
 

Maybe out of left field, but how about taking it to a jewellers?
 

Also consider using the book for the detail work as well as the contemporary high res drawings available on Wiki Commons from RMG to compare with whatever kit you choose.   Plans J2027, 2028 and 2029 for starters.  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:HMAV_Bounty_(1784)  Each is over 40MB, so very clear.
Allan

I think the Amati Bounty turns into a great model but be prepared to undertake a LOT of heavy bashing. 
 
The entire stern galley configuration really needs to be scratch built as the kit supplied soft metal castings simply do not match or fit the fine decorative pieces that are supposed to cover them. I am up to this stage on mine and whilst I think it has turned out pretty good, it has taken months to get it right. Similarly, you will find the overall plans not very good with many wood strips wrongly sized etc. The main wales for instance. 
 
The pre-cut gun ports also need to be addressed as you will find your guns pointing at an obscene downward angle unless you come up with a plan. I rectified this by completely cutting the top off the gun port, doing away with the horrid metal port lining, and replacing the entire assembly with fine painted wood strips.
 
I will try to post a few pics here a bit later, (probably should have carried on with the log I started a few years ago here), but in the whole I believe the Amati 1:60 kit will make a great model, just takes a lot of forward thinking to get it that way. There are a few logs out there for this kit and they are helpful, plus I can give you a heads up along the way if you decide to go with this kit. Good luck.
 
Cheers.
 

Now in the middle of second planking.
 
As the hull curves from side to bottom, there is a piece that needs to be installed.  It comes off the laser sheet flat, and has to adapt to the curve of the hull.  I used my steamer, and a bunch of CA glue and accelerator.  The wider side pieces are fairly easy to shape -- but the narrower center is a bear.
 
Regards,
David

I think the Amati Bounty turns into a great model but be prepared to undertake a LOT of heavy bashing. 
 
The entire stern galley configuration really needs to be scratch built as the kit supplied soft metal castings simply do not match or fit the fine decorative pieces that are supposed to cover them. I am up to this stage on mine and whilst I think it has turned out pretty good, it has taken months to get it right. Similarly, you will find the overall plans not very good with many wood strips wrongly sized etc. The main wales for instance. 
 
The pre-cut gun ports also need to be addressed as you will find your guns pointing at an obscene downward angle unless you come up with a plan. I rectified this by completely cutting the top off the gun port, doing away with the horrid metal port lining, and replacing the entire assembly with fine painted wood strips.
 
I will try to post a few pics here a bit later, (probably should have carried on with the log I started a few years ago here), but in the whole I believe the Amati 1:60 kit will make a great model, just takes a lot of forward thinking to get it that way. There are a few logs out there for this kit and they are helpful, plus I can give you a heads up along the way if you decide to go with this kit. Good luck.
 
Cheers.
 

The model uses brass bulwarks at the bow and stern -- I think probably to define the portholes cleanly.
 
There's also a resin piece added in these pics on the lower stern.
 
Next step is second planking.
 
Regards,
David

The hull is closed completely, and some of the resin pieces are now mounted on the bow and stern.
 
Takes a lot of sanding and fitting to get the resin pieces right.
 
Regards,
David