mrshanks

Looks good, Brian!

Clever repair

So I know this will be shocking, but I actually did more stuff on the boat!
 
Finally finished planking bulkhead #4 that I already had glued to the keel.  Probably would have been easier to unglue it from the keel and then put it back on after planking, but oh well, got it done.
 

 
Once that was done it was time to begin setting the bulkheads for the center/main cockpit area.  A good & meticulous boat builder would have a fancy building board with a frame designed to keep the tops of the bulkheads even side to side.  I do it ghetto style with a loose plank across the top of the bulkheads, my eyeballs, and some clamps.
 

 
Of course I'm a big clumsy oaf so I managed to break a bulkhead while using it to size the bulkhead slots in the planked floor pieces.  This is the 2nd bulkhead I've broken, they are extremely fragile at this point.  I decided to reinforce this one when I fixed it by drilling a hole in both pieces (1.15mm drill) and inserting a small wooden dowel cut from boxwood with a drawplate.
 

 
After all the middle bulkheads (but not the main aft bulkhead for the section) are mounted, I dry fit the main cockpit deck, and it required a slight bit of adjustment with an emory board, after which it fits quite nicely.  There is not enough room for the main aft bulkhead due to the extra thickness added for the planking on it, so I have to sand about 1/32" off the aft end of the deck pieces before it will fit with the aft bulkhead in place.  I reduced the bow end prior to this.
 

 
Both main floor pieces have developed a slight warp, a curve from side to side, they are straight in the long direction, so I dampened the back basswood and they are currently both sitting under a significant amount of weight on a flat surface to hopefully remove most of the warp.  Will take a while to dry in between the surface and the heavy pieces of wood on top.

Nicely done and nice repair. 
Steve

I'm glad you're still with us, Brian!

All those little details really add life to the build Don. Great execution on your part.

Beautiful work as usual Don. Showing these steps is invaluable to me. I find myself continually going back to your build to see how you did one thing or another. My backyard looks like yours right now.😱

Dave, Len, Elijah and Bob Thanks guys I really appreciate you guys stopping in and leaving your great comments.
Mike: "laundry and dishes" sounds much better,at that time of day, than vodka and orange!!

Lovely work Don, so consistent!
 
Len

The masts look very nice! All of your work is very tidy!

Great stuff, as usual, Don.  Excellent craftsmanship.
 
Snow???  We have blue skies and temps in the upper 60's F!!  You really are in the Great White North   !!

And finally the last of my updates, this first one is showing block and bracket installed for bowsprit
 

 
This one is showing a piece I missed on the plans, rather important as it supports the rudder
 

 
All the masts (full length is not in picture), bowsprit and spars are made.Some of the rigging is complete, the lower spars have a bit of a complicated rigging with a traveller and also a mouse of sorts
 

 
A close up of the aft lower spar showing the rigging
 

 
Masts are just temporally put together for picture 

 
That's about it for this update, all plans for being outside are on hold as we are getting snow today so I'm hoping to have a productive day in shipyard, after laundry and dishes are done
 You all Have a good day and Thanks so much for stopping in

Nothing too exciting here, I just thought I would show how I seize a block to a hook.
 

Thanks to all for stopping by, for your likes and gracious comments. Almost a month since last update and I have accomplished some.
First up is making some oar locks:
 

 
From left to right: kit supplied one, outline on rosewood board, initial cutting on mill, after sanding on disc sander and final product
 

 
Pins installed in bottoms and a coat of WOP (two extra to cover breakage)
 

 
The Trabaccolo has two fittings unique to herself and the Brazzera. These are both belaying points, one style for the halyards and the other for the stays
 


 
The finished product
 

 
For the stays
 

 
And for the halyards, one at the mizzen and one at fore mast
 

Great tutorial, Don! And continuing great work on the model.
 
  BTW:  Before the switch in software, MSW "content I follow" always listed the latest comment on a topic first, with the other comments on other topics chronologically in order.  You were always able to keep up with the latest developments.  With the current setup, that's not the case.  Despite the post above mine (Mike's) posted 14 hours ago, this build log and it's latest post remain on page 5 of my "content I follow" menu.  Can that be fixed?  Anyone know?

Glad you straightened me out. I didn't realize that was a drilled out rod. Probably even better. It would have been difficult to find various sizes of tubing.

Zoltan: Thanks, I'm just passing on a idea that I found here on MSW
 
E.J.: No problem, it really is a good little jig and it also works for making hinges

Ian, Thanks buddy. This a real good project for the new mill. Canadian Tire has the brass rod

Here is the process for making eyebolts and hooks, please remember this not my idea but one I found here and I don't remember the gentleman's name:
 

Lay wire on jig insert drill bit and pull down on the bit
 

Keep bending and turning the wire over the bit leaving a slight overlap
 

move the wire around and bend it down on the bevelled edge, this lines the eye up with the shaft of the bolt
 

sorry for blurry picture, my left hand was a little shaky today. This a finished eyebolt
 

to make a hook lay the eyebolt flat on the jig
 

insert bit and bend the wire up
 

turn bolt back around to bevelled edge of jig and make a slight bend
 

cut the excess wire off and you have a eyebolt. 
 

 This picture shows the hook we just made(on the left) and some other sizes I've made. The bronze hooks and eyebolts are for the gun carriages on my Pegasus
 

 a clearer picture of the jig, easy to make and easy to use
 
Hope this is useful
 
Mike: I forgot to answer your question about the rigging rope The rope does not compare to Syren, nothing does,but the rope supplied is quite adequate and I won't be exchanging it out. I used the Syren rope for the anchor as it was a little bigger, which I thought looked better.

Fantastic Don - What a good process. Looks like you can get very consistent output like that. That's always my downfall. Nice looking hooks but no two are the same size.
 
What was the size of the tubing you used? Looks like the tube ID needs to be about the same as the OD of the bit?

Thanks for that tutorial Don. Very helpful.
 
Ian

Great tip for making eyebolts and hooks. Thanks!

Mike : Yes, you can make very consistent ones. The brass rod I used was approx. 5mm or 3/8". To determine the size of hole required you take the size of eye you want( 1mm for example) plus twice the diameter of wire (.5 mm) so a hole of 2 mm would be required, you would then use a 1 mm bit to form the eyes. Drill hole into rod, file off approx. half the length of the hole until half of it is exposed then at the very end file a little bit of a bevel as seen in the pictures. I must admit I use this same jig almost all the time, making a jig for the exact size you want would make it even easier. On the jig shown the opposite end has a different size hole. 

Roger, Brian,
                 I still have the opportunity to square off the stern as I haven't glued the 3 layered add-on piece yet. I'll have to make another, or modify the stern upper deck portion I have already completed to give a finished appearance to the deck planking but a great question asked, Brian. Not sure how accurate it will end up but I'll post pics asap.
 
I'll show updates and outcome on my build log.
 
Len

Good job with the planking! The edges look nice and tight!