kurtvd19

Here is my model workshop it’s the office of my workshop.  I don’t use it as an office anymore so I turned it into my model workshop.

the video is of my miniature workshop but it has changed a little bit since this was taken.
 

 

IMG_3122.mov    

My workbench area.

Bench itself.  I have a computer station in the room, too.  I use the same wheeled chair for both. 

And my humble nautical/modeling library.

I got a few items's checked off the list this past week.
 
 Added the stair railing. 

 
The stair railing was the moat time consuming as it was mostly trial and error
 
 Added control lever and steam pressure gauge in the pilothouse and it's now permanently attached. 
 
 Added the water tank, exhaust pipe, steam whistle, drive shaft (as much as can be seen) and step over

 
 
 Thank you to everyone for the likes and for your support, I appreciate it so very much. 
 
    Keith

Here are some better pics....the last one was just on my phone.
 
I wasnt just painting figures today, I also finished up the tiller.  I was going to do a mash-up with metal and mixed media or even just make the tiller from all brass like Greg did.  But that seemed a lot when I am awful at metal work.   I also dont have those tools and havent soldered a thing in my life.  So I said why not just 3D print the tiller.  Its all painted black and many of you kit builders dont have the tools to do the metal work anyway.  So the Tiller is 3D printed and all you have to do is paint it black which was done on the contemporary model...and glue it in position.  I would say that it looks as it is supposed to and much better than if I fumbled through a soldering exercise. 
 

 
All of the deck-work and fittings are now done except for the binnacle.  But next up is the remaining outboard hull details.  Starting with the channels and deadeyes.
 
But here are a few pics of the deck fittings all done including the tiller.
 





 
 

Since my last post, I glued rigging line to one edge of each the large panels, so that one piece of line would pass between each adjacent pair of sail panels, using Aleene’s Tacky Glue.
 
There is a feature on kitamaebune that I didn’t is used on my previous higaki kaisen model. This is a marking on the main sail that identifies the owner of the ship. There are probably some known markings of famous Kitamaebune owners, but I just made up something that’s very simple, just black rectangles on the third cloth out from the centerline of the sail. I painted these using some artist’s acrylic that I use mostly for paper models.

While paint and glue were drying on the sail, I decided to do the pre-rigging of the lines on the yard. For this, I simply followed the kit instructions and used the kit sail to get the proper spacing. The seams on my sails are actually slightly wider apart, but when attached to these lines, it should only work toward my attempt to make the sails look like Japanese-style sails. The knots on the lines on the yard are really just clove hitches. I'm used to tying these on ratlines, but on a thick yard, I had a hard time. The first 1/4 of them took me a long time, as I was using my fat fingers and also had a hard time seeing the ends of the lines. I finally got smart (or less stupid?) and broke out the headband magnifiers and rigging tweezers. The second quarter went better, but I needed a break. After that, the second half took me no time at all!

The sail panels were all glued together here, and a length of coated wire was glued into the seam I made at the foot of the sail. In the photo below, you can see how it's giving some shape to the sail.

Next, I need to attach the sail to the yard, then I'll need to cut small lengths of line to simulate ties that hold the panels together. I don't know that this will really have an accurate look, but I've seen a lot of Japanese museum models that have a similar look, so I think I'll be satisfied enough with it.
 
There's a very small amount of running rigging to add after this, so I think it's safe to say I'm getting very near the end.
 

Hey Everyone, I hope all is good. Thanks to Everyone for the Comments and Likes. This update looks like more of the same only at the stern. I finished planking the forecastle deck. I managed to squeeze in 2 nibbed planks. The drawing shows 3 but because  I'm using 5/64" wide strips instead of 1/16" wide strips everything gets thrown off a bit.
 

 
 
 
 

 
The rough cut subdeck for the cabin deck was pinned to the hull and sanded back to within 1/16" of the bulwark planks using the small sanding block. The subdeck was then cut to accept the cabins and then glued in place. 
 

 
For the waterways a piece of 1/32" plywood was laid on top of the subdeck and the outboard edge of the subdeck was traced on to it. The outboard edge of the waterway was cut almost to the line and pinned on top of the subdeck. Then the inboard edge of the waterway was scribed on to the plywood using a compass stuck in a small block of wood that slid on the face of the bulwark planks. The inboard edge was cut and sanded back to the line and the waterway was pinned to the subdeck.
 

 
Once everything looked okay the waterway was glued to the subdeck and the outboard edge was sanded back to the subdeck using the same sanding block
 

 
The 1/32" x !/8" strip of wood that runs under the waterway was glued in place
 

 
 

 
The coaming is made of two layers of 1/16" x 1/8" strips of AYC that were pre bent on the same mold as the rest of the stern planking. A line was scribed on the waterway to mark the inboard edge of the first plank and pins were inserted along this line.
 

 
This plank was attached to the waterway with CA
 

 

 
The outer plank was glued to the inner plank using white PVA
 

 

 
After a bit of sanding the bulwark planks were painted
 

 

 
Thanks for stopping by. The cabins are up next.

Here is a link to where you can get your HO scale ruler, fast, easy & FREE.  Make sure to set your printer to 100%.
https://www.printablerulers.net/category/hobby

WOW!  I marvel at your small works of art.  I have started building at large scales so I can add the details.
Take care,
Kurt
 

Here is a link to where you can get your HO scale ruler, fast, easy & FREE.  Make sure to set your printer to 100%.
https://www.printablerulers.net/category/hobby

Here is a link to where you can get your HO scale ruler, fast, easy & FREE.  Make sure to set your printer to 100%.
https://www.printablerulers.net/category/hobby

WOW!  I marvel at your small works of art.  I have started building at large scales so I can add the details.
Take care,
Kurt
 

WOW!  I marvel at your small works of art.  I have started building at large scales so I can add the details.
Take care,
Kurt
 

WOW!  I marvel at your small works of art.  I have started building at large scales so I can add the details.
Take care,
Kurt
 

Thank you to each of you for the comments and the likes. 
 
 
 I'm calling the steam engine is done. I could add the reversing leavers but they would be on the starboard side and wouldn't be visible with the engine room attached. The engine can only be really viewed from the port side and with the reversing levers on the starboard, it's work that to me is somewhat pointless.  

 
 The crank is straight, there was no way I could make journals and get the nine eye pins (rods and bearings) to align. That task was tough enough with the crank being straight!

 
I get a real kick taking my boxes of bits and making something mechanical. The engine's final dimensions are engine body, 0.90 L x 0.41 H X 0.31 W inches. Flywheel to tail shaft is 1.15 inches. It took 64 individual pieces to make the engine.
 
There's no mistaking it's an engine even though little can be see when surrounded by the engine room.
 
It seems it's like this is becoming my signature, build an engine and bury it. 

 
  Thank you for your support and for being part of the journey.
 
     Keith

Thank you to all for the comments and likes.
 
 Quick update...
 
 The knee braces and winches have been added and that completes the bow face except for the deckhand and he will be the last piece added to the model. 

 
 With the exception of the water and steam pipes the boiler is done and glued in place

 
 Next on the list is the steam engine. 
 
 Thank you for the support and for being part of the journey.
 
   Keith

Very creative (and smart) way to represent the hinges on the rudder. It is definitely easier than using brass parts as I recently did it on my CAF Chebec.
 
Yves

The stairs are now completed. JHC had a very utilitarian set of stairs.  Many of the other early steamboats had a wonderful rounded double stair with an arched entrance underneath.  JHC was simply squared off and angled. 
 
Early construction shows the sliding doors from the inside of the boiler room.  I needed to repair one of the door slides which I had knocked off.  The stairs stringers were cut to an 8-inch rise. A tread was then added along with a riser.

The arrangement for the stairs was a short central stair to a landing and then a short course of stairs to either side.

Two frontal views. The first shows an up close with the access doors to the coal chutes. 
 

The second view is a front on with a view through the access doors.  The green hand pump is in the background.
 

Time now to complete the rest of the underside of the boiler deck.  Before I can add the carlines, I need to add both bells, the speaking tube, steering ropes and a bilge pump.  I also need to complete the various water pipes. Lots of little odds and ends. 

Hi Everyone, thank you very much for the great Comments and Likes. I have just finished planking the deck. The samson post and the forward hatch were completed a couple of weeks ago so they were ready to install as I got to them. According to what I’ve read, some sharpies had “ boxtop “ hatches where the top slides down over the coaming and sits on the deck. Because there is a king plank that sits proud of the deck planks, there will be a gap which would probably help to reduce rot if water cannot be trapped there.
( Just an opinion )  
 

 

 

 
The samson post was made from the same strip of wood as the bow sprit but was sheathed in 1/32” ayc sheet to build it up to 3/8” x 1’4”. A space was left for the bow sprit to fit into. It was left long just to make it easier to hold onto.
 

 

 
The post was shortened and the shaft for the windlass was attained with brass straps.
 

 
The planking then continued. Some of the planking turned out a bit dark so every once in a while I would sand an area and use a cotton swab dipped in methyl hydrate to try to lighten it up. It’s an ongoing process.
 

 


 
 

 

 

 

 
This last photo is how it stands now. Test fitting masts and getting ready for metal work. I forgot to mention that I made some boards to protect the deck from the dredges. Pretty sure they will be used.
 

 
Hope to see you all soon.

Thank you guys for your kind and informative comments and the likes. I appreciate your support so very much.
 
 
  The first time i saw the photos of this push boat I was smitten with the ugly, dirty, quirkiness of her but I had serious reservations when I started the build not knowing if I was going to be capable of doing her justice. It's only been in this last week that I've really warmed to the build as the work has finally developed a rhythm and flow and now I'm having a ton of fun, let the devil take the hind quarter. 
 
 
 First off, I want to apologize for the following photos.......bad camera day.    
 
 The steel plate is painted but not yet glued down. I looked at beads and a whole slew of other options for lightbulbs but nothing worked as well as the belaying pins. I did try filing  and sanding the shape from egg to ball, they're now acceptable.  
 
 I added coal to the coal crib and the auto stoker's conveyer belt. Coal has a slight gleam to it so I lightly patted poly on top of the coal to give it just a hint of shine. I also got the conveyer belt tail rigged through the blocks. 

 
 
 The stern maintenance hatch is made and glued in place.

 
 The coal crib and stoker are glued to the steel plate but the boiler is not yet glued to the plate as I have more work to do on it which is next on the list. 
 
 Thank you for following along and being part of the journey.
 
    Keith 

I should have added that the hogging problem was exacerbated by most riverboat hulls being built quite lightly, very different from your typical maritime wooden hull. A classic ocean-going hull was built super-strong, of heavy oak with very dense framing and lots of cross-bracing. These hulls were essentially rigid and didn't need additional trussing beyond the hull itself. But that's because they were deep-water vessels. 
 
Classic North American riverboats operated on shallow rivers and in an economic context that required them to be cheaply built, including that fact that their service lives were far shorter than that of a typical maritime vessel. So their framing was much farther apart and built of smaller timbers, their hull sheathing was light and thin, and they couldn't afford much cross-bracing without making the draft too deep. Plus, their hulls had to be flexible because they were highly prone to hitting bottom, where a rigid hull would break. So all of this meant the hulls were lightweight and needed the extra trussing of hog chain systems to keep them in line.
 
Keith's vessel is operating on a reservoir but clearly derives its lines and design from classic North American riverboat design, with a shallow blocky hull made of wood that would require trussing to remain stable.

Milestone reached as this completes chapter 9.  All of the deck fittings except for the binnacle have been completed.   The last fitting was the rudder cover.   Again very straight forward.  All parts are laser cut.
 
To begin you must build the jig.  Just glue the part labeled "jig" on top of the square with the etched outline.
 

Then start adding the sides of the rudder cover.  Start with the back panel.  All corners will be mitered or beveled.  I just eye-balled it with a sanding stick.
 

Work your way forward and then finish up with the front panel.  Remember not to glue the rudder cover to the jig!!!
 
In addition, you can build the lid or top of the rudder cover.  It is in two layers as shown.  But dont glue it on yet.  This wont be done until after the rudder is installed and the tiller is added.  I did go ahead and paint them red however.
 


You can test fit this on deck...but notice the small step behind the rudder cover.   This is the step for the ensign staff.   This must be added first.  I have laser cut a bunch for you as they are small.  You must bevel the back side to fit snug against the transom.   The front side should be beveled as well to sit flush against the rudder cover.  You can glue them in position, but remember not to glue the top on for the rudder cover yet.  If you do ... you will never get that till inserted into the rudder head.
 

But you can sit the top in position and nobody will know it isnt glued on yet!!
 

Thats it...all fittings completed.   To begin chapter 10 I will be making the rudder and tiller.  Fun times.
 

I hope my fellow Speedwell builders will allow me this indulgence.   The breast rail at the fore end of the poop deck is actually quite plain on the contemporary model.  I usually try to faithfully keep my models to historically correct details but I couldnt resist.  The original draft for the Sloop Fly which is her sister has a very detailed and fancy rail quite different than the plain one on Speedwell.  I have decided to go with that rendition.  It is made in the usual fashion for my fittings.  Nothing earth shattering.  They are just laser cut pieces in layers.  The top rail for example is made by sandwiching 3 thin layers together.  The top and bottom layers are just .025 thick.  The center layer is a robust 1/32" thick.  I still thinned down the top and bottom layers even more after gluing them up as a sandwich.   
 
The only thing that is really important here is to make sure that the two outer columns are lined up with their partners below on the bulkhead between the windows.  I also had had to take care in forming the curve on the column next to the dome roof.  It had to be sanded to fit nicely around that curve and sit flush against it.  The close-ups are brutal and yes I have a lot of paint touch up in my future.
 
The top of the rail is painted black as was done on the contemporary model while the remaining areas are painted red.  Only one fitting remains and that is the rudder trunk cover.   I will make that next.  I will add a binnacle as well, but leave that for the next chapter after the rudder is installed.   
 

 

 

 

Thank you to everyone for your kind comments and likes. 
 
 What a taffy pull it was getting the wheels built. For as long as it took I should be dancing a jig but alas, that's not the case. 
 
 The wheels are loosely placed as more work in the stern is required before they are glued into place but this little ugly duck now looks the part. 

 
 I poly coated the wheels to represent being wet.

 
 The buckets are 14 inches to scale but could have been a tad bit wider. 

 
 I did a poor job pairing the Amati ships wheels used for the  framework as evidenced by the port side wheels canted bucket. Not all Amati ships wheels are created equal. 
 

 

 
I'm not staying up until the wee hours of the morning working anymore so the pace it's going to be a little slower going.
 
 Thank you guys for your support by following along and being part of the journey.
 
  Keith

Congratulations Ryland.  A beautiful model.
Kurt
 

OK well here a few pictures of the capstan painted red.  At least folks will be able to see both choices and the decision will be easier for them.
 
I do like it better red...what do you guys think?