tartane

Hi Tom, Do not lay the grain of the several pieces of veneer in the same direction. Of course that will not work. Constant

There was a question about the recoil of the cannon when it was fired. In the side walls of the shooting niches, no traces of iron anchors to secure the cannons have been found. That seems a bit strange given the recoil and reversing of the guns. I found a video about firing a replica of a cannon from the Mary Rose. The cannon used is heavier in caliber than the replica I made and the recoil must have been greater there. It is clear to see on that video that the backlash was not that intense at all. I think that with the replica in the Bourgonjetoren in Zutphen, that recoil could easily be absorbed by placing sandbags behind the wheels and the vertical beam https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3bR9qN6HYY Constant

8 In the previous post, something went wrong at the end. Here are some more pictures to end this topic Thanks for all your likes! Constant

7 Zuil met bedieningshandel = Column with service handle. Uitlaat dieselmotor = diesel engine exhaust Bolder = Bollard Vuldop brandstoftank = Fuel Tank Filler Cap Luik naar motorcompartiment = hatch to engine compartment Vuldop watertank = Water Tank Filler Cap Schijnwerper voor in tunnels = Floodlight for tunnels Luik waaronder butaglasflessen = Hatch to butane gas bottles. On the roof and on the side walls the name of the boat, in this case that of the client's wife. On the front on the side panels is the mandatory number for all boats. In this case, it's my own date of birth. The model stands on a base of two baffles between which are copper threaded rods in brass tubes. Constant

6 The last major part was the roof on the cabin. I made it in two parts. This roof is slightly curved. It consists of three layers of 0.6 mm thick plywood. These were fixed on a bent mould. Between the layers came the wood glue. After drying, that curved shape remained. In the photo, the mold is visible next to the parts of the roof. The short part is fixed and the long part is removable to view the interior. This fixed part is necessary to ensure the stability of the model. In the roof there is a sliding hatch that closes at night, and is open during the day, which is necessary to be able to access the stairs. On the roof of the cabin there is a lifebuoy and a boathook according to regulations. A deck mop is also an indispensable part. Furthermore, the various ventpipes for the toilet, shower and extractor hood of the kitchen are located in the right places. Constant

5 The side walls with the windows each consist of three layers of plywood. The outer one is 1 mm thick, the middle one is 1.5 mm, and the inner one is 0.8 mm. In the middle layer, sheets of perspex of 1.5 mm are included. The outer and inner layers have been painted/varnished in advance and temporarily attached to each other. On the blue background a layer of tape on which the windows were drawn, which were then sawn out. The frames of the windows were taped and painted. In the middle layer, slightly larger openings were cut out in which sheets of perspex. After gluing those three layers together, the windows became visible as glass and the side panels were ready to be mounted. The front and rear were then painted and the two bulkheads of the cabin were made and finished. In both partitions there were doors with perspex as glass After that, the side panels could be installed. Inside the cabin, everything was completed. Fenders were installed at the bow and stern, especially necessary so as not to damage anything in the narrow locks during the locks. In the model, they are pieces of cork that have been cut into the right shape. They are attached with chains and rods. Constant

Hi Tom, I think you are building a beautiful boat. But may I perhaps make a small point of criticism? You use plywood for the rafters. That comes into view and then I find it disturbing that you can see the three layers of wood so clearly, especially when they are varnished. This is easy to avoid. Simply make your own plywood by gluing together a number of layers of veneer of the type of wood you find suitable. If you cut the trusses from it, the ends are completely even. The best way to do this is to use two flat planks, for example 12 mm plywood. You provide each of them with cello tape on one side to prevent the glue from adhering to the boards. Then you put the required amount of pieces of veneer between those planks, provided with wood glue, best is to dilute that glue a bit, Then you clamp the planks firmly together and let it dry for a long time. The latter is important because it causes the glue to dry a bit slowly in the air. In this way, you can also determine any thickness of trusses, without being bound to the standard sizes of the plywood. All these small trusses are made according to the above method succes Constant

4 The top of the boat must be kept as low as possible to be able to pass under the many low bridges. As a result, there has to be a staircase to get to the bottom of the boat. Here the steps are between two cabinets. On one side is a cupboard for the ship's technology, on the other side is a hanging cupboard. In front of that, two single beds with a narrow passage. Walking from the back to the front, from right to left, the following spaces appear; 1. A toilet with washbasin 2. A hanging cupboard 3. One double bed 4. Toilet/shower/sink and a cupboard 5. Kitchenette with cooking facilities 6. Lounge 7. Stairs to the forecastle One of the panels for the electric heating, here against the side of the toilet. The living room with the kitchen. The table can be lowered so that it becomes a double bed with the sofa. The insides of the toilet, the wardrobe and the shower room. Constant

3 At the stern there is always a fence, sometimes equipped with a bench, against which the skipper leans while sailing. This is also where he operates the rudder and levers for the engine. I made this fence out of 2 mm thick brass on which I also soldered the supports. It was then mounted on the aft deck. A hole was drilled through the deck in which a tube was glued in which the rudder pin can turn. The rudder blade and propeller, both soldered to brass, were then mounted. On the model, the tiller can move and the propeller can also rotate in a tube lengthwise of the model. Underneath the propeller is a steel beam that is mandatory in every narrowboat to prevent damage to the thresholds of the locks and the propeller itself. The tiller has a characteristic shape that is the same for every boat. After the hull under the upper bumper had been painted completely silk matt black, work could start on the interior. Constant

2 For the most part, the hull of the model is built of 8 mm thick MDF. This allowed the structure of the boat to be determined. In that structure, the location of the engine, the fuel tank and the water tank were already taken into account. Strips of 1 mm thick plywood were installed along it. Curved round at the back and ending in a point at the front. After drying and filing, the characteristic bow was glued to it, which is almost the same for every narrowboat. A deck hatch was then placed on the forecastle and later also the filler cap for the water tank. As far as possible, everything on the outside was painted in grey. Commercially available semi-circular strips of PVC were used to make the protruding edges along the hull. These were glued to the hull after examples in photos. These edges are intended to protect the hull when sanding along the edges of the locks. In the last picture you can already see that bulkheads have been placed in the boat that form the partitions of the various compartments. A temporary bulkhead is placed in the front of the hull so that the boat could be turned upside. Constant

1 I built this model in 2016, so a few years ago, at the request of someone who had sailed on such a boat a number of times during holidays. In England it is possible to rent such a boat for some time and go out yourself in the canals in the middle of England. Originally they were cargo ships, but nowadays hundreds of newly built ones sail through this area. Moreover, many of these ships are permanently inhabited. My client wanted to use this model to show family and friends how much fun it can be to sail on such a narrowboat. Just an example They are very narrow, no wider than 2.08 m, which is necessary to pass through the many locks that do not have a wider passage than 2.13 m. The maximum length is 21.9 m, which has to do with the length of the locks in those canals. I determined the length of the model to be 717 mm, which comes down to an actual length of 18 m, which is the most common occurrence in reality. The difficulty was that there were no blueprints to be found anywhere. Extensive research yielded nothing, so it seemed as if this belonged to the English state secrets. Only the head sizes are known. Still, there had to be a drawing and I made it mostly on the basis of photos of people so that I could determine the necessary measurements after comparing and calculating. The client gave instructions for the layout of the interior. Drawings of the layout of such boats were available at the various rental companies, but they gave no indications about the construction and the heights. Photos of the boats lying on land for maintenance gave clues about the situation below the waterline. With the help of all this data, I made a drawing on a scale of 1 : 25 that served as a working drawing for the construction from that moment on. The stern The bow As a result, it has become a model of a non-existent boat, which accurately meets the standard dimensions. The painting is entirely at own discretion. By the way, it could be that there is a boat sailing around in this outfit, because after a quick comparison with photos it turns out that no two boats are the same. Constant

Two beams next to each other between which the foremast is clamped? Constant

Translate the text to English,. To do this, select the text and a message will appear;; translate section to English or any language you want. In the upper right corner of your screen, the translation will appear, then go to; translate entire page, and everything will be fine. If you want to enlarge or reduce the drawings, go to a copy shop. Write on the drawing you have exactly how much you want to enlarge it, for example 0.58 x and give it to the man who is going to do it. Always works, Constant

I read that you were harassed by a member on a previous forum. That happened to me when I was on the model building forum in the Netherlands. Eventually I left and now feel more at home on this forum. It may be about the same person that has caused many people to leave. Was his first name Stephan? Ridiculous that something like this happens. I can imagine that he is very jealous of your expertise. I think you do a great job and hope to hear more from you! Really beautiful. Constant

Yesterday I saw your report on this project for the first time. Great to see and read! I will follow you because I am very curious about the sculptures you are going to make. I built a few ships that involved quite a bit of carving on a scale of 1:87. I made that from pear wood that I selected from old utensils. I plan to build a state yacht on that scale but I hesitate because I don't know if I can finish the many sculptures. I hope to learn something from your reports about materials and methods. Constant

It amazes me to see how here a kit is put together. This isn't the right place, is it? Constant

Beautiful paintwork! I know how difficult it is to paint small details within the established lines. Recently I saw a report on TV about the excavation of the remains of the Mary Rose that have yet to be found. It emerged that they may also have found remains of the bow, at some distance from the wreck. So who knows what the results will be.

Museums all over the world have more or less experience with lead corrosion. See the accompanying report where much is explained about this problem. Naval Sea Systems Command > Home > Warfare Centers > NSWC Carderock > Resources > Curator of Navy Ship Models > Lead Corrosion in Exhibition Ship Modelsnavsea.nav Constant

You mentioned the disastrous effect in the combination with lead and wood. I had experience with that too. I do know that it mainly occurs when a model is set up in a completely closed display case. It is then the gases released from the wood that affect the lead. If the display case itself is sufficiently ventilated, the destructive effect will not be too bad. I notice it when I remove a display cover over my models, then you can smell the wood gases that are in it. And that has to be able to go. A number of models I've built are still without a display case, and nothing has happened to them for years, except that I have to remove the dust every now and then. Do you know the book: "The age of the Galley, Mediterranean oared vessel since pre-classical times", written by Robert Gardiner in 1995. A fantastic book, highly recommended for anyone who is working with such ships. Funny thing is that the writer was not aware of the existence of a Turkish galley ship from the beginning of the 17the century that has been completely preserved and that is now in the maritime museum in Istanbul. If he had known that, it would certainly have become a separate chapter in his book. I visited that ship and took some pictures of it. If you want to know more about that, let me know. Rest me to say that I follow your exellent craftsmanship and thorough research closely with great admiration! Constant

11 The cannon I built is derived from the cannons found on the Mary Rose and from examples of such cannons that have been preserved throughout Europe. Several museums have these examples. Since no cannon from that time looked exactly the same, I could afford to build a cannon that fit within the available space in the medieval gun tower in Zutphen. There are several bills in the 15e century that deal with the purchase of those cannons. The much larger cannons, one of which was also ordered in Zutphen in 1457, were not on wheels but lay on the ground. I did a lot of research on that to understand what kind of cannon was purchased here in 1457. We knew the weights of the barrel and the snelleke. Since 1457, everyone believed that this cannon had been in the tower, but the enormous weight and the diameter of the available embrasures did not match. After a lot of calculations and research into such existing cannons in Ghent, Edinburgh and Dresden, I came to the conclusion that the cannon must have looked like the photo of a model of it that I made myself. Several experts in the field have examined my calculations and came to the same conclusion. The cannon in Ghent (Belgium) That was the reason that the municipality of Zutphen asked me to make a replica of a cannon that could have been in the tower. After research, using as examples the cannons that still exist and have been excavated, I made the cannon that is now in the tower. In the gun niches you can see traces of construction that indicate that they were fixed during the firing. Look at the first episode that I wrote in this topic. The niches opened onto a very heavy floor, on huge beams, which has now disappeared, over which it is clear that the cannons were driven over in order to be able to fire in the right position in other niches. There would not have been a cannon in every niche. The same thing happened on ships at that time. A small ship like that of Willem Barentz in 1596 had 14 gun ports. There were 16 people on board, so it is clear that there was not a cannon behind every gun port. Possibly there were no more than two. So it's very likely that the cannon I built was on wheels. Because the barrels of these guns were often tied with ropes, it was possible to disassemble them and use them elsewhere in a campaign. In addition, the bottom of the embrasure is about 40 cm above the floor. Anyone who takes the trouble to search the internet for 15th and 16th century iron cannons will find images of such a cannon. Constant

10 The cannon is now in its final place in the medieval Burgundy tower. With these pictures I close this topic. Thank you so much for all the thumbs-up! Sincerely, Constant

9 After the photo shoot at the contractor’s workshop. The cannon is now dismantled again and in parts it goes to the medieval tower where it will be constructed on its final place. This will probably happen tomorrow. I'm very happy with the result!

8 Indispensable tools for a 15th century cannon. Rope to attach the barrel to the carriage. A hammer to strike and loosen the two wedges for the breech A long stick with a wick De breech. The parts will soon be attached to the cannon with chains to prevent enthusiastic visitors from working with them!

Very expertly built with beautiful details, and clear photos. Congratulations! I have a question; Where is the capstan with which the great Ra is hoisted and with which the anchor is also raised? There seems to be more than enough room for it on deck. Constant

7 In the contractor's workshop, a lot of hard work has been done to finish the carriage. The cannon is now almost ready. Some of the parts are now in the workshop and another part is at my home. In the coming days, everything will be brought to the tower and assembled there.