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Hoisting the Ensign
This is a schematic of how I attach the Ensign to the Staff.

Incidentally this is Blue Ensign made for my Victory build, using the tissue/printing method.
I had made the Ensign and Jack Staffs some time back in the build.



The Ensign is raised.



The Jack before tweaking...............

 .........and after.
 
Almost there folks, some tidying up now to do, and a base to make.
This post marks the seven day task of rebuilding this log, I think I've got it all in the correct order.
B.E.
11 March 2017.
 
 

Ensigns.
I have opted for the Red Ensign, and a Union Flag at the Jack staff. There should also be a Commissioning Pennant worn at the Mainmast head, but these very long pennants can be difficult to  get to hang right on a model, and may be best left off, I am undecided at present.
The two references I use for flags are:
Flags for Ship modellers and marine artists by Alec A Purves
Flags at Sea by Timothy Wilson.
For Pegasus the pre 1801 Union flag design is appropriate; for Fly with a career spanning the Act of Union of Great Britain and Ireland, either would be appropriate.
Many depictions of the pre 1801 Ensign, and Jack show quite a broad white diagonal representing the Scottish Saltire

However, contemporary marine  art does tend to show the Union flag with a much darker blue ground and a much narrower white diagonal.

This extract is of a painting that hangs above my desk. It is entitled A Two-decker and a Frigate off Harwich  by One of my favourite contemporary marine artists, Charles Brooking, and is my guide for the Pegasus Ensigns.

This is my preferred design, albeit in rough form.
Making the Ensign
A photo of the Ensign is printed out at the appropriate size to form the pattern. This scales to 57mm x 87mm.
 
To make the Ensign I used Modelspan tissue.

A piece of Modelspan is taped across a box with a rectangular hole in it.
It is then painted both sides with dilute pva, and dried with a hair dryer.
It is then taped over the photo image of the Ensign and  run thro' the printer.
I allow sufficient extra on the hoist edge to form the hoist thro' which the halyard will be fitted.

The printed image on Modelspan is a little too faded so it is again taped over a backing piece and is painted over.
At this point I place a sheet of polythene beneath the image to prevent paint bleed sticking the Modelspan to the paper beneath.
To paint the flags I have used Humbrol Acrylic paints, No 60 (Red) No 77(Blue) and No 34 (White)

Painting both sides of the Ensign completed.

The Jack was prepared in the same manner, measuring 23.8mm x 36.5mm.
The next stage is to get the flags to hang limply in a natural fashion.
My approach is to steam them and tease them into shape.

These little hand steamers are just the ticket, beats holding it over the kettle spout.

A heath Robinson device to hold the Ensign at the correct angle
whilst it is steamed and pulled into shape.

The Ensign is left to dry and hopefully stick in the arranged position.

Line is loosely tied around the  flag to assist in shape holding.
The next post will deal with attaching the flags to the staffs.
B.E.
 
 
 
 

Stanchions, and miscellaneous finishings
Stanchions.
These run along the Foc'sle and the waist.
Foc'sle

A passing rope (2½" - 0.30mm) threads thro' the Foc'sle stanchions. Eyebolts at either end of the stanchions in the planksheer and bollard timbers to secure the line.
Waist

The iron stanchions along the waist are topped by a rough tree rail. I have used a length of 'ebony' boxwood strip.

Always a fine point to when to fit these delicate pieces, don't want to do it until I am sure no more fiddling in the waist area is required, hope I'm right.
Entry stanchions and Entering ropes.
The stanchions are kit provided in brass etch, but seemed a little too short to me, so I modified them. According to Steel the Entering ropes are of 3" line (0.38mm)
I  initially used Morope 0.40mm. which is closest to scale, knotted at 5mm intervals down to the water level.
On reflection I thought the overhand knots looked too bulky; I retried it using pva blobs to represent the knots, didn't like that either.

Finally I downsized to Syren 0.3mm line and this suited my eye best.
 
Swinging Studding Booms
I made these a long time ago, there are sets for the Fore and Main Studding sails.
The Fore booms are a problem inasmuch that unlike the Main booms which lie along the Main channels, the Fore Booms have nowhere to lie insitu when not in use.

When in use the Gooseneck hooks into an eye bolt fixed in the hull just aft of the Bridle port and forward of the Billboards.
The Upper deck seems to be only practical place to store these, or perhaps lashed to the spare topmasts on the Gallows.
At over 30ft in length manoeuvring and fitting these items must have been an awkward exercise when at sea.
The Main booms hook into an iron strap with an eye at the Fore end of the channel and is supported by an iron crutch towards the aft end of the channel.

Not quite sure how these are secured along the channels but I have taken the view that lashing to a deadeye strop is a reasonable option.

The Main booms do have various guys rigged to operate, but I have not included these.
B.E.

 
 

The Fore Sheets

4½" line 0.56mm Syren 0.45mm
Eye spliced to eyebolt below fixed block in hull, 5mm fwd of  sweep port.

Thro' sheet block at the yard,then aft thro' aft fixed block.

.......to the range cleat in the waist.
 
The Fore Tacks
TACKS, SINGLE, lead through the block lashed round the outer end of the boomkin on each side, then lead upon the forecastle, and belay round a large cleat upon the cat-head, or to the topsail-sheet-bitts.
Deciding the run of this lead caused me some  trouble and I raised the issue in a separate post.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/15232-run-of-the-fore-tack/
The response to my query was somewhat thin but I have concluded that the tacks should run outside of other rigging lines leading into the Foc'sle.

On a purely practical basis, with the sail set, the tack line would otherwise be fouled.

Tack line taken inboard and belayed around top of Head rail.
B.E.

Main mast rigging ongoing
Tying up a few more loose ends.
Firstly the Main Topmast and T'gallant backstays need to attached with their deadeyes to the Channel, and secondly the Main sheets which pass outside of the stays, but then pass thro' a fixed block and inboard to belay at a timberhead.
At this point I have one of those 'oh bugger' moments, as I realise I have slipped betwixt two stools (no pun intended) when it came to the backstays.
The kit provides for two Topmast backstays, the ffm only one, and I find I have one too many deadeyes on the channel. Needless to say I have only one backstay hanging from the Topmast head.
Too late to remove all the top hamper to add another backstay in the proper manner, but it was just about possible to thread the line up beneath the stay collars, feed it around the masthead and down to the channel.
I am encouraged by Lees comment that Main Topmasts sometimes carried one more backstay than the Fore topmasts.

Crisis over and I move on, no real visual impact of this little deception, and only you and me know about it.
My approach is to attach the deadeyes to the backstays, but leave off applying the lanyards until the sheets have been fitted and belayed.
 
Main Sheets
 I had trialled the run of the Main sheets back in November,now is the time to fix them.

The run of the Main sheets can look awkward because without sails rigged they tend to lie against the Backstays before they lead inboard. For this reason I like to have a degree of slackness in the sheets so that they do not  bind hard against the stays.
That the Channels are sniped towards the aft end on the ffm plans, which throws the backstays a little more inboard may be done to counter this .
Of course the simplest method is to not rig the sheets and tacks on a bare stick model.

The sheets are a substantial line scaling to 0.56mm ø This is an awkward size in relation to scale line. Syren has 0.45mm and 0.63mm and Morope has 0.4mm 0.6mm
I need also to take into account the tack line which is larger at 0.69mm.
I would prefer to use Syren for this particular line as the synthetic Morope needs to have some tension on it to avoid unnatural looking  kinks.
For these reasons I am using Syren 0.45mm line for the sheets, and 0.63mm for the Tacks, which give a visible difference between the two.
To get a smooth kink free run of the sheet between the sheet block and lead block on the hull I dip the line in very dilute pva, wipe off the excess and put the line under light tension for a while.
The standing end of the sheet is 'false' spliced around an eyebolt  above the aftermost gunport.

It leads thro' the sheet block from out to in, runs down to a lead block seized just above and aft of the standing part, and runs thro' the fixed block to belay at a timberhead.

The Main Sheet belay can be seen opposite the gratings.
With the Main sheet belayed I can now secure the T'gallant backstay.
 
Main Brace Falls

The ffm (18.43) indicates that once the brace line has passed thro' the the fixed block it is belayed to a timberhead some 6 to 8 feet forward to allow the Mizen topsail braces and Vangs to belay aft of the Main brace.
 On the kit model this would place the belay on a timberhead adjacent to the tiller lines.

I have run the brace falls forward to belay opposite the Mizen mast.
The Main Tack

Belaying the tack to the forward Range cleat in the waist proved a little tricky, mostly because I added the waist gangboards.

Just about managed it from the opposite sides with very long tweezers, but there are several risks poking around beneath the Pinnace at this stage.
Ffm Vol 11 para 12.15 indicates an eyebolt for the Main tack fixed in side. - note this is applicable for double tack rigs not the single tacks as used in 6th rates.
I will now move onto the Fore Sheets.
 
B.E.

Tidying up the Foc'sle.
For the past few days I having been trying to sort out the confusion of lines around the Foc'sle.
There are a lot of loose ends now that need securing, and looking ahead a little there is the perennial problem of sufficient belaying points.
I note that the Belaying plan (Plan#3) of the ffm Vol IV shows 10 cleats conveniently placed around the inner bulwark of the bows between the Bowsprit and Cathead, but what is not shown is the Breast hook which fits over the Bowsprit and is bolted to the bow timbers which would preclude cleats in the position shown but presumably they could be fitted to the face or top of the Breast Hook.

The Breast hook can be seen in this shot.
Steel specifically mentions a pin in the breast hook to take the Fore T'Gallant bowlines.
Bowlines are a feature I am thinking of adding even tho' mine is a bare stick model, in this case they are simply hitched to their respective yards before running to belay points.
The Foc'sle is just about tidied up now and the T'gallant Backstays have been rigged.
 In a final crowning to the mastheads the trucks are added.
The photos

Tidying the line ends


Belaying to the Belfry rails is a test of patience, so many lines to snag.


Fore T'gallant backstays on the stools now secured.

Lead of the Fore Tack, something that is causing me some confusion at present, not yet ready to be secured.

Truck at Foremast head

....and at the Mainmast head; Main T'gallant back stays yet to be secured.


Coming together now I think.
 
B.E. 31/01/2017
 

Interesting idea to do the complete assembly off the ship.  I put the shrouds on completely and did as much of the standing rigging as I could before I did the ratlines on the ship.  I'm afraid I'd finish the entire assembly, go to put it on the ship and discover that it didn't fit right.
 
How are you going to alternate the shroud pairs over the mast head left/right/left/right (or whichever way they alternate, I forget now)?

Here's how I keep my line. Rather than letting it get tangled in the little plastic bag, I wrap it around the neck of prescription bottles. I keep the empty package inside the bottle even though I write the dimensions on the label. Because I'm a bit anal retentive. But if you're on this forum, you have at least a little bit of that in you too. 
Here's the starboard shrounds/ratlines completed.
 

Here's the port side in progress. One of the shrouds - at the bottom of this picture - is just a little bit long. About 1/32" - close enough to fake it and too close to fix it. If you look closely at the top of the shrounds, you'll see a brad stuck in between them at the top of the wood work surface. That's to tension the loose shroud. I plan to lose that odd space in the mass of lines where the top mast attaches. Getting each ratline even without distorting the shrouds is a slog. Much harder than with the first set. It'll be some kind of wonder if I don't have to discard this one half-way through and start over. 

 
 
 

Rigging continues. I'm on my second set of shrouds because I didn't read the documentation carefully enough and learned the hard way that the deadeyes need to get spliced on before the ratlines or else you'll ruin the ratlines in trying.
I came to the realization over time, so it wasn't too rough of a lesson. I had finished one set and was about a quarter of the way through the second. So no more than about 200 tiny clove hitches.
It also gave me the excuse to redo the shrouds using nice Syren linen line instead of the polyester that came with the kit. Because I ran out of the polyester.
I'm much happier with this second set. Once the shrouds are done, I'll double-check the drawings to make sure I have as much done as possible before affixing the shrouds and mast. It seems every time I look, another small assembly jumps out at me that I wouldn't want to install once the mast is firmly in place.
But I feel like I'm getting closer to the point when I can start connecting all the rigging systems I've been building to the mast and boat.  At that point, progress will seem to go very quickly - for at least awhile.
 
Below: The 2nd try at ratlines - about 2/3 complete. 
Below: This was the first attempt at shrouds and ratlines, since discarded. I'm more satisfied the 2nd time around. 

Closeups of the 2nd try: 


Below: The served forestay, followed by the completed forestay with mouse - which I carved from a small dowel and painted black. I looked at various techniques to weave the mouse more authentically, but, well, no. Not this time around at 1:48 scale.


The mast rigging shot below is my first run-through, with old shrouds pre-ratlines/deadeyes. I've since removed the topmast, which is making the second attempt at the shrouds and other rigging much easier. 
 

Below: Port-side shrouds, before jigging to tie on ratlines. 

 

that's what it's all about E.J.      I'm still amazed with the size of the hull.........makes for quite a planking job.   {I imagine you'll be doing a second planking = double the fun}  

there are quite a few folks,  who will plank from the keel up.   I tried it and found it hard to hold the straight line.    deck and aft quarters is looking real nice E.J.

Hi EJ i like the idea of planking upwards and the finish line growing easier rather than harder I think I will adopt this on my next build 

Ahhhh.
The never ending planking story. I built the Model Shipways Constitution in 1:76 scale. The planks were 1/8th in wide. I thought I would never finish. If I remember correctly there were about 150 planks needed. Thankfully there were some sub-assemblies that I could work on for a diversion.
 
Your SLR is looking good. Drive on!!!!!!!!
 
Regards

The planking continues to go on and on and on but, it is growing as the port side has now reached the lower gun deck. This is a good place to be as at least on that side there are no longer any crazy curves to deal with.
 
The real story of this weekend though is that I have started to build the interior of the great cabin! In order to run the LEDs before the hull is closed up I had to know where they needed to be and in order to figure that out I had to have cabins to put them in. Also, it is far easier to build the cabins now while the hull is open and I actually have room to work. I had though about just leaving the stern off and working the inside from there and while some final details and touch ups may need to take that route, the floors, bulkheads, and many of the other details I want to add can go in now.
 
Thankfully S.R. has a lot of windows on her stern to allow people to see inside her and combined with the lights, I have hope that all this work will not be completely wasted. If I'm wrong then at least these pictures provide proof that I am in fact partially insane.

A bit of an American-centred view of the world, I think, Ron. The Euro may be falling against the Dollar, but, within the Eurozone there is no change. Why would you sell nothing to a market of 500 million while you are waiting for the exchange rate with a market of 300 million to turn in your favour? It doesn't make sense.

The choice re the tv is easy. There's very rarely anything of interest to see on it. And even if there is, I don't mind if I miss it. But we do have one at home. Our grandchildren watch it in small doses, and in fact I think TV for kids now plays the same role for the imagination as comics used to do for me when I was a kid. But as for me, I haven't read a comic since childhood.
 
Tony

I totally agree with you😊. It is actually quite interesting about these "free spots" where you can sit down and build. I have mine on working evenings when the children are sleeping or on Saturday, Sunday mornings (2h) when the children are at Russian school or in Russian church (my wife are from Russia and it is  important for us that they speak Russian as a mother language and get the culture from there).
However, the interesting thing is the question I always got on work and that is "how do you have time over to sit down and build?"
The anwere is easy. I very seldom just sit down and look at that thing that is called TV screen.... Some of the people that ask are in same family situation as me but they "burn" there free time in front of Netflix and etc....

Hello all.
 
Have been a slow start for me since the summer holidays. But here is an update on how far I am at the moment.
The red is the paint I mixed together with Vallejo colours. It is not bright red but I really like it since it looks old and used.
 
I started with the top plank as a guide (just carefully glued it on so I could move it later) and then attached the others. The two lowest on each side are the planks under the whale and these will be covered later.
 
I really looking forward to how this wood will be when pure tung oil is added
 
Ps. I can say that I don't like the pre-cut plywood parts for the gun openings, they make more mess than they are helpful. Also it adds to more plywood edges that needs to be covered (I just hate to have visible plywood on a model).      
 
 

I got this as a present when I get 40 some weeks ago and I tested it directly

That's it.
 
She is finished !
After a journey that took more then 3 years she finally reached port.
I wanna thank you all for being my passengers all that time.
Also thanks to Anja for helping me with a lot of things.
 
Sjors
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

The last update before the final pictures 
 
Anja has finished the nettings and makes a few hammocks.
You can see how see has done it ,step by step.
Enjoy .
 
Sjors
 

Hello,
 
The deck framing is now complete. Here are some pictures.
 
Alexandru

Hello to all!
For my poor English ,the following was translated by software and maybe have some grammar or other mistakes .
The plans of L'ARTÉSIEN were purchased from France in last year,the ship is so beautiful and i want to make it(into a ship model) by cnc.
 

 

 
First I scan the drawings,then make it into 3d model or 2d Vector graph,Then NC engraving,Including 2D and 3d kits for example frames/figurehead...
My project starts from the stem and the main material is pear and jujube...
This process is almost all CNC machining, manual only assembly and polishing...
 
 

 

 

 

 
some photos of  Actually produced...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
mill on double sides
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The two faces are basically the same
 

 

 
Double sides milling of bow special parts...
 
The following is "no bridges"

 

The previous production was "have bridges" As shown below...
 

 


 

 

 
pre-assemble...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The figurehead ...
3d model
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Although not very similar, I have tried my best...
NC machining programming and simulation
 

 

 

 

 
Preparation materials
 

 

 

 
It will take some time to process the finished product
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hallo,
 
The filler blocks are placed on the starboard side.
Because sanding with the sanding machine is faster the blocks are not made in advance  in to the proper shape.
This is now probably the most ugly hull ever shown MSW…..

A few minutes of sanding and the shape is already better.
If you want to do this in the same way
Do this outside. This makes a lot of dust ....

Now further  filling and sanding until the desired shape has been achieved.
The lower part of the hull is ready for planking.

My first goal was to try to build a hull that has probably the right shape
Below the waterline it looks to be in order
 
next update : frames and gunports on the cannondeck

 
index

thanks Michael and Cristian and everyone watching this


 
When the fillerblocks are ready on both sides. I will start with building up the frames. ( It is my intention to make the inside partly visible  through open doors and windows)
 
Before I can do this, I first need to determine the final shape

I now have plans and images for 4 different Golden Hinds….( Yes 4 )

The final shape will probably look like this

 
Groetjes
Greetings