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  1. One final shot of my AVS on display. I made the case using standard molding and UV-filtering museum-quality acrylic that I found online for a shockingly good price. The back panel is a mirror, which I protected by gluing fiberboard to its back side. The process was to make the "glass" box first, using acrylic glue; it's strong stuff and needs to be used with good ventilation. It goes into the cracks with a syringe and welds the two pieces of acrylic together. With reasonable care, it was easy, neat and effective. Then I reinforced the box by gluing square mold
  2. I don't have plans yet for my next build. I have at least one hobby too many and an unrelated project that I want to finish over the next year. And then I'll decide what to build next. As mentioned above, I like the idea of building the brig Niagara. But I'm also curious about what other kit brands have to offer. Any suggestions on brands to try other than Model Shipways are welcome - and particularly why you'd recommend them.
  3. Project finished. Jan. 17, 2014 - July 21, 2017. 469 hours. It's funny, after that amount of time, that I put on the flag staff and that was it. Done. Simply nothing left to do on a project that often seemed as if it would/should never end. No abmiguity, not one more little thing. Simply done. I enjoyed every moment - even the rough ones. I've been planning to build a display case and have drawn up plans. I hoped to use acrylic with a UV filter to protect the model from sunlight and reduce the weight of what is likely to be a very fragile box. Then I pr
  4. I'm still plugging away, an hour here and an hour there. It's summertime and the basement workshop gets moist and unpleasant. So I keep the model on the dining room table (I'm on borrowed time with that), and carry it downstairs when I work on it. I'm literally tying up loose ends - coils. I'm down to my last 10 or 12 of them, all at the bow. After than, I just have to put in the swivel guns and the flagstaff on the stern, and it will be done. I'm starting to think about a display case, and am realizing it involves tools I don't own. All the bites that hold
  5. I've been making my way through the rigging. I've been picking my order as I go, doing what seems to make sense next, with an overall game plan of avoiding getting my fingers and tools twisted in the rigging that's done. So I tend to work on related systems (e.g. Forestay and associated halyards) rather than in the layers of standing and then running rigging. I'm also trying to minimize doing the more intricate work on the boat itself. Like the parrels - I much preferred doing those on the workbench than on the mast under the forestay. But it means working several ste
  6. Gunther, It will be touchy work to layer/alternate the shrouds but they will go. I've already had them on and off a couple times without the ratlines. The first time was to build the loops at the top - when I left plenty of tail at the bottom. The second time was after the loops were finished, I put them on the mast - correctly layered - and got the deadeyes set at the right length and held in place with a knotted thread and a tiny bit of CA. The hardest part of this process was making sure the mast was straight up-and-down, which I did with a teeny, tiny plumb bob, smoot
  7. Here's how I keep my line. Rather than letting it get tangled in the little plastic bag, I wrap it around the neck of prescription bottles. I keep the empty package inside the bottle even though I write the dimensions on the label. Because I'm a bit anal retentive. But if you're on this forum, you have at least a little bit of that in you too. Here's the starboard shrounds/ratlines completed. Here's the port side in progress. One of the shrouds - at the bottom of this picture - is just a little bit long. About 1/32" - close enough to fake it and too close to fix it. If
  8. Rigging continues. I'm on my second set of shrouds because I didn't read the documentation carefully enough and learned the hard way that the deadeyes need to get spliced on before the ratlines or else you'll ruin the ratlines in trying. I came to the realization over time, so it wasn't too rough of a lesson. I had finished one set and was about a quarter of the way through the second. So no more than about 200 tiny clove hitches. It also gave me the excuse to redo the shrouds using nice Syren linen line instead of the polyester that came with the kit. Because I ran out of the polyes
  9. Bit by bit her rigging is coming along. I've got the bowsprit rigged and affixed. Here's a shot of it with a short focal range and a perfectly focused background. Here's a closeup at the bow - and in focus. I'm just noticing the rough edge where the bowsprit emerges for the first time. I'll have to clean that up. I'm rigging the mast now and am most of the way there. It looks like a real mast being prepped - lots of spaghetti, all of it making perfect sense to me and to nobody else. I've love to show you a photo, but it was either out of focus or it wouldn't load.
  10. Thanks. I if couse investigated on the Internet after committing to the change. It took about 4 minutes. I had it right the first time.
  11. Feeling annoyed. Do the double holes of a deadeye go up or down? Based on the instructions, I put them all upward on the chainplates. I did this months ago. Now I'm rigging and notice they face down. So I just tore apart the port-side chainplates and reversed them. Two hours later, after the reconstructive surgery, I noticed this. Make up your mind. So now what do I do? Change the other side? Leave it half-and-half - knowing that it will show when I have the shrouds rigged? First I'm going to walk the dog.
  12. Broken hearted. Literally. In rigging the strop to hold the forestay, the forceps I use as a clamp cracked the heart. Gluing it back together isn't a possibility; it's not a clean break and there are tiny shards of walnut missing that make a repair harder than carving a new one. Which I've decided not to so. My CA glue is going bad and I'd like a rubber-gripped clamp for holding these small parts, as I've broken several blocks the same way. So I'm taking the easy path on this one and ordering a package of 10 hearts. But here's a thought for Model Shipyard: There is a lot of room on th
  13. Zolten, you remembered. I've ordered Syren line and it is much more enjoyable to work with. It looks better too. That's Syren on the yardarm. I may still use some of the crappy stuff that came with the kit; finances are such that I don't need to be ordering all sorts of extras. But anywhere a line needs to drape, or where it's likely to be hard to work with, I'll use the good stuff.
  14. After finishing the hull in April I took a long break away. It was a combination of work kicking my but, a summer that refused to give way to fall until almost Thanksgiving, and simply needing a break before jumping into a new phase of the model. But I started again in October on the spars. I took this series of photos a few days ago; missing are the gaff and flag staff - which are both now well under way - and footropes on the upper yard arm. I decided I want the spars natural rather than painted. I stained them with a light walnut stain before varnishing to get the orange look.
  15. I've been meaning to post these photos for the last couple weeks, but work has gotten in the way of progress on the boat AND posting updates here. I've finished Sheet 3. My next activity will be on the mast, but I don't expect to get to it for another week or so. At the suggestions above, I did try the Syren line and see why it's so highly recommended. Much more fun to work with than the stuff that comes with the kit, and much more realistic. I'm not sure if I'll use it for the standing rigging, but I plan to do all the running rigging with the Syren line. Meanwhile, here's how she
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