zoly99sask

Made up the second set of cannons

 
Made some rings and hooks and finished off the ends of the breaching ropes

 
I do not want any movable parts that can come loose later on after the builds are finished, and then give me a nightmare of a job trying to get them back in place. So i drilled holes in the bottom of the cannon wheels and glued some brass wire in

 
Next i laid some masking tape across the deck

 
Then i carefully placed the cannons exactly where i want then to be and when i was satisfied with the placement i pressed down on the gun carriages with even pressure over each wheel
Note : in this picture you can see i have also made and fitted the shelving to the inner hull above the table

 
When the cannons are removed there are 4 marks left in the masking tape, i have highlighted them with pencil to make it easier for the camera to pick up the marks. all thats needed now is to drill out the holes where the marks are, apply glue to the brass rods in the wheels and place the cannons where i want them

Made a little more progress
 
Fitted the hanging knees and all the eye pins in the upper beams and also all the eye pins for the cannons, also made the tables and benches and fitted them

Both builds at the same stage, so i can carry on with them both now

Thanks for the likes and all input so far, much appreciated
 
Quick update
I have almost caught up with the other one, just need to finish off the gun port covers and rig them then i will be ready to continue on with both of them together.
You may notice that i have gone for a brown framework on this one, this is because i did not like the look of the first one in white. One coat of walnut wood dye gave it a mottled aged look which i liked so i left it at one coat


 
 

Fitted the gun port lid lifting tackle


 
Also fitted an extra eye bolt nearer to the top of the hull to keep the rope work nearer to the underside of the upper deck

 
 

With my limited knowledge of rigging, I am seeking some help/ guidance on the rigging of the Main Mast of the Royal William. The drawing for the total ship contains so much detail but here goes. I am gathering together a mass of general detail to put into a 'Resource File' that will be available to all.
 
The topsail yard is attached via what I would call a normal parrel (some spell it parral) and I am OK with that. It can be easily seen in one of the attached drawings. These were in use until the late 18C. In the early 19C, iron parrels came into use.
 
The main yard from the drawing appears to be attached with a truss pendant ? (shown in blue) but there is an odd-shaped 'something' (shown in orange). Can anybody throw light on what this shaped 'thingy' might be ?
 
Thanks for reading this and your possible help.
 
Pete

Alexandrau,
 
Your work has been an inspiration to me. Thank you so much.
 
Pete

Here's a few pics to play a little catch up on this build log....
 
The addition and rigging of the bowsprit....

 
The channels and lower dead eyes have been added to both sides....Note the rigging of the bracing tackle for the fore and main masts.  Also, the rigging of the fore and aft shrouds for each channel.
 
 
The fore channels....

 
The main channels....

 
Broad side view....

 
I will now set about adding all of the lower shrouds.
 
I am also currently working on the four lower tops for each mast (counting the bowsprit)
 
Good to be back at the bench.
 
 
 
 

Great to see my old mate Mr. Piet dropping in for a visit.  Wish you could join me on this one Pete....should be a real blast.

Took a few update shots this morning, with only four days to have her "more finished" for the road trip....

All channels have now been rigged with dead eyes and chains.... 56 of them.

 
All dead eyes have now been rigged with shrouds....
Note that the main mast top has been added.

 
Currently working on completing the three remaining tops.  Note - there are over 80 custom cut and shaped parts to these little tops.

I keep all receipts in a binder. ...But refuse to do the math. Wait until you've been at this 2 years.
 
I'm saving that addition for if I ever want to commit suicide by heart attack.  or Admiral flogging......
 
Seriously though, Try to think of it this way. Within a persons typical budget, they skip 2 important things - Savings and Hobby's. I have not paid a cable TV bill in 9 years, I hobby rather then melt my brain with consumer advertised TV. Add that total up, but most think of TV as important as the water or electric bill. I DON'T.

Never underestimate the ability for a human to justify just about anything.
 
Ultimately, if it helps you make it through life with more smiles on your face, and its not taking food out of you or your families mouths, I say do it and don't look back. Nearly every tool is an investment that will last many builds. Which equals hours of smiles, and frustration, which in my opinion is a character builder. Nothing good in life is free.
 
Try this, take your hourly wage and multiply it by the hours you put in Carmen, some say time is money. Now look at that total. No matter how you look at it many of the things we love are expensive, as a disabled homebound person, this hobby saved my life and sanity. To me that's priceless, Tammy agrees. 

Oh yea, I also did a remarkably stupid thing today.  For no real reason at all, I put all of the receipts I've spent on stuff since I bought the Carmen kit back in August into a spreadsheet to get a total.  Boy that was dumb, that number is really quite a bit larger than I expected. 
 

 
Buying random clamps, pliers, glue, tape, bits of wood, fittings, etc. adds up even when no single purchase is all that much.

August

Fig-33 - With the ships beam formed of Bulb Iron, and the brackets cut - bent -and the opening filled with a plate, originally hammer welded, but in this case silver soldered in place, we are ready to complete the beam for fitting into the Hull Frame.  First the ends are trimmed to the correct length, then two brass angles - with rivet heads formed, are soft soldered to each side of the top edge, this being undertaken on the soldering table with the aid of the resistance (carbon rod) soldering unit.  A thin groove is cut into the soft soldering block and one tinned brass angle placed in it.  The tinned beam is placed on to this, with a second tinned brass angle placed on top of that.  Care is now needed to aline all three so that they meet at the top edge of the beam for the full length, at which point the carbon rod can be applied to heat the parts, melt the solder and fix the joints.

 

Fig-34 - Here we see the second tool, built into the ‘Beam Making Tool’ (BMT), used to form the curvature of the deck beam.  It consists of a double action cam operated press.  The working end consists of two thick plates, with a matching curved surface to form the camber of the deck where they meet. The lower one, next to the operating handle, being fitted with a hinge, and a groove across it’s face so that it can be turned up, to allow the finished beam to be placed into the groove.   When returned to it’s lower position, the handle is pulled, thus forcing the two plates together, and forming the camber to the deck beam.  All beams have the same curvature, they only difference is in their overall length

 

 

Fig-35 - We now return to the FMG, the top portion of which is the beam setting tool.  This consists of a hinged frame, to which are attached two adjustable fingers with cut outs to locate the two deck beams,  The distance between the tween deck and the main deck will be the same for the length of the hull, but the distance between the keel and the two decks will change as we pass along the length of the hull.  To accommodate this a micro adjustment has been provided to the platform holding the two fingers with the deck beam stops.  Each of the original aluminium frame plate patterns is so made, that the top of the plate represents  the position of the topgallant rail.  With the master frame pattern in place in the FMG, a small setting block  - so made to set the distance from the top to the main deck - is used to clip over the top of the pattern, so that the fingers can then be adjusted to their rightful position for the two deck beams.  The pattern plate is then slid out from the top of the jig, and replaced with the aluminium soldering table.  With the frame now fitted and held in place with wire dogs, the two beams are fitted in place up against the finger stops.. With the end brackets already tinned, it just needs a slight heat from the carbon rod to remelt the solder and secure both the beams in place.

 

Fig-36 - The first set of ships frames complete with deck beams and number tags, ready for the next set of fittings before being assembly to the keel.

By all means, assemble your build log with as many details as possible.

You have no heading for iron/steel ship models - if of interest to the other model makers, I would be pleased to put up a truncated version of the 'Current Project' on my own web site at:
 
http://www.wworkshop.net/Falls_of_Clyde/Menu.html
 
I can leave out the tool making, and take the viewer through a dozen or so photos, enough to show the process and progress of the construction.  I see nothing similar in your splendid web site.
 
With respect,  Gerald

Small update. Cutting out some parts for the stern with the milling machine and drilled holes for stand screws. The milling machine is so fun to work with .
 
Also received the first delivery of the next long time project and the parts looks very good.
 
I will have a pause in the workshop for some weeks since we are traveling to my wife's parents in Russia. 3 hours flight and 18 hours by train...... I have time to figure out how to make the stern on Sherbourne. Maybe do as on Cheerful?
 
Have a nice summer!

The scratch keel and bow is glued to the ship. I followed Chucks instructions for Cheerful and added a smaller strip as rabbet. The holes for forestay deadeye lanyards are also drilled out.

Now I could start to build:) The keel and bow are replaced with scratch build pieces. (The kit keel was to short....) I have follow the pattern found in  AOTS Alert but redone it a little. I also experiment with dowels and I use the supplied Walnut for it since it is a little brighter than my Walnut. I use 0.8mm drill for the dowels in the bow to strengthen it but I think I will use 0,5 mm on second planking. Don't know if that is the right measurement on real dowels. To get the black line so is wood glue mixed with black pigment used. Maybe I will change to black pencil later. I think the result is ok fort the first scratch built part I have done .
 
Click on last photo to see the keel and bow togheter.

These are the first pictures and they show the basic build. Holes for brass stands has been drilled out and two nuts are glued in with epoxi. The planking is not the best and I have sanded to much so some amount of filler were necessary (especially on the middle) to get the right smooth form. It is probably my fault but I agree with Chuck when he wrote in the buildlog for Cheerful that Sherbourne needed more bulkheads. But I think the final result is accetable
 
(some of the photos are in wrong order...)

Thanks Sam,  I appreciate it.
 
     I Continued to work on the Head Timbers this weekend.  
 
     And wow - what a giant pain in the keister!   Obviously, the bow of the ship is not perfectly symmetrical, but I figured if I used the supplied paper templates, I could get close with the timbers and then make some minor adjustments.
 
   Not so much.  Basically - it came down to just trial and error trying to get them to fit on either side of the head rail.  Here are my scraps of cutting, sanding, fitting,  and failing.    
 
 

 
     I'm not completely satisfied with the outcome here, so I'm going to feel out the middle rail and see how it looks, along with exploring options with filling in the little gaps to make everything nice and snug.    If that doesn't pan out, maybe I'll just scrap it all, and try again.  We shall see.
 

Hello Matthew.
 
First of all thank you for the mention of my Deck planking guide.
What I do now, instead of actually using treenails in decks or hulls, is to just drill a hole with the smallest drill you have. Then I put a small drop of Boiled Linseed Oil (or you can use Tung Oil also) on a piece of very fine sandpaper. The dust will mix with the oil and fill the holes, giving the exact appearance of a wooden plug, which is exactly what treenails are (were). I later finish with a coat of the same BLO to even things out. To me this method has worked perfectly. The beauty of this is that you can use a really thin drill to achieve a more close scale, easier than using real treenails.
 
Here you can see the effect on the Z timbers
 

 
Hope this helps.
 
Ulises

Thanks for the likes, the comments, and just looking in....
 
Not a big update, but deck furniture (except for the mizzen mast step and the oven) are mostly done.  The main mast partner is coming out as I'm not happy looking at the picture.  Other than this partner, the oven and the mizzen step, everything else I salvaged from Version 1 for this build hit the scrapbox.   The main mast partner should be following.
 

Got just a little bit further.  Finished gluing the rest of the frames and bulkheads.

 
 
Also finished the false keel and keelson.  Here is a close up of the bow area.  I decided make the bow stem from individual pieces instead of one solid piece of walnut.

 
Tom
 

Progress update.  I started to glue the frames in place in the past few days.  Instead of making a framing jig I opted to go the old fashion way with a couple of square blocks and a 6" square.  I figured it was going to take a lot of time and effort to make an accurate jig that I will just toss later.  If the frames are made symmetrically, I can put down a top view drawing layout of the ribs on the build board and position it with the keel fixture.  Once the first rib is in place and squared up, I use spacers to position the next rib along the keel.  If all is correct, they should line up with the drawing below.  I use the 6" square to true up the faces and the out ends with the drawing lines.  To me it seems much faster and easier than the jig.

Here is where I am today.
 
 

Pic showing how I centered the frame on the keel (port to starboard).  If the edge of the square sits even with the edge on the drawing and the frame itself, life is good.  The other side should fall into place provided you did a good job making the frames symmetrical.
 
 
 
I then squared up the frame aft to bow.  With spacers precut to the same length and if the frame is straight all should line up. I check it with the square.  The edge of the square should be lined up with the face of the frame on the drawing and touch the lower and upper face of the frame.  If it does, once again, life is good.  As a second quick check, I use a square block to check squareness with the keel.
 
Tom

I like what I see.   I find it interesting that you're using a mix of bulkheads and frames.  

I finally got around to putting together a build board to hold the keel while I start the frame assembly process.  After I received an order of wood from Jason at Crown Timberyard I am ready to start.  I purchased some maple for the decks, Swiss pear for the outer planking and some walnut for some of the wales, keel and stem.  It was my first purchase from Jason and I was quite impressed.  I dry fit the frames/bulkheads I had previously built just to get an idea of what I am getting into.  It seems like it is going to be a fun ride.