hdrinker

Now on to the rest.

That completes the standing rigging for this build. I can identify with Blue Ensign’s comment about the effect of rigging on the back and neck. With Spring now upon us in southeastern Massachusetts, I think I’ll take a break and prepare for the eminent Striped Bass arrival. We live on property that extends to the banks of a tidal river on the coast where the Spring migration of Stripers offers excellent fly fishing opportunities from shore, a good diversion from endless hours in the basement. Henry

Deadeye plates utilized as advised. Difficult to achieve good parallel alignment however with the surrounding deadeyes due to special confinements in my build.

Great! Will do. Thx.

Somewhere in the pages of David’s book he likely addressed this issue in order for those like me to avoid just this goof and is now saying “I told you so”. 🤦‍♂️

Significant error discovered. I should have added a fifth deadeye to the mizzen channels to accommodate the mizzen topmast backstays. But didn’t recognize that the 3-D computer images omit a mizzen top gallant. Instead, I used the deadeye aft of the quarter badge for the topmast backstays, leaving no deadeyes for the top gallant back stays in my version of Pegasus. We’ll, it seems that my choices now would be to 1): redo the entire mizzen and its channels , or 2): redo the stool aft of the quarter badge to accommodate an additional deadeye. I’m leaning for the latter, but would be welcome to hear from the group.

I followed David’s recommendations for the fore top spritsail netting. Here’s the jig, which seems essential, and the results.

Topmast standing rigging complete.

I didn’t actually measure my bow sprit angle other than following the process described by David in the book. I had to shorten the neck on my Pegasus to accommodate the bow sprit. The real problem for me was accommodating the bob stays which have to pass between his legs and is very dependent on the location of the bob stay attachments. I had to extend the bobstay piece accordingly. Not sure how I could have avoided that. Henry

What is the cumulative error that you refer to. I’m assuming you’re speaking about the bow sprit angle? Henry

She’s looking really great Kevin. You’re showing me what it should look like. I’m loving reliving the various steps. Henry

Euphroes and crows feet were a challenge. I followed Dave’s advice and used 6/0 thread from my fly tying bench. #26 drill with the milling machine. If the holes in the euphroe are too close together, the thread saws its way through from one hole to the next. Leave a distances about equal to a hole diameter between holes. The thread I tie flies with in brown is not mono thread, and it readily comes apart into many tiny filaments unless it’s treated with dilute PVA. After many painful hours of trying to thread that 6/0 thread through the holes in the euphroes, I got a sewing needle from my wife and a needle threader and that made a big difference, especially when trying to reverse thread the holes in the tops. I also learned the hard way to keep tension on the crows feet during threading. Otherwise the euphroe has a habit of rotating, which gets quite confusing as one progresses causing the lines to thread the wrong way at times and losing parallel alignment. I spent about 15 hours over 3 days doing this and must have started over on each mast several times.

Thanks Christian. Comments appreciated. Henry

Ratlines, Futtuck Staves, Catharpins installed. Ready to start on tops.Ed

Working on standing rigging.

Bow sprit and bookings rigged

Decided to rig Pegasus, so making the masts is next.

While the lighting remains intact, the effect is underwhelming without more views of the lower deck I’m afraid. Lots of effort with little return.

Bow sprit and jib boom completes the hull.

I decided to use rice paper for the ensign. I placed the paper over the pattern which was produced on a regular lined notebook sheet. As suggested by David, the rice paper was wetted and taped over the pattern to a board just as it started to dry. Once dry, I painted the first side. When that was dry, the rice paper was peeled off the pattern. In doing so, areas of the pattern paper adhered to the rice paper. These were removed by wetting the painted rice paper and gently rubbing off the adherent paper. A tear in the rice paper resulted in a small hole which was covered with a patch. The ensign was turned over and taped down again, this time over waxed paper. The reverse side was then painted. The patch adhered nicely. When dry both sides were touched up. Final trimming of the edges to the proper dimensions was followed by gluing a narrow strip of sail cloth along the halliard edge, folded over to the reverse side with the halliard incorporated. The composite was clamped until dry. Next, the halliard was passed through the sheeve atop the ensign staff and down around a cleat at the bottom of the staff. The final step was wetting the ensign with a paint brush and shaping it to resemble a flag assuming a collapsed posture in the absence of wind. The result is shown. The next image shows the big bower anchor in a styalised pose representing the process of fishing it towards its stowed location on the ship’s side. The cat fall and hook are still engaged, the stopper and shank pendant are in place, and the fish hook is engaged around the inboard fluke arm. I’m afraid that this will complicate rigging the model some if I decide to proceed in that direction.