hdrinker
-
Posts
218 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by hdrinker
-
Note also the wires for lighting the lower deck laid in a trough cut into the deadwood and tunneled through the keel. Not sure yet what I’ll do with them from here, but will probably run them along the keel and rout them through the aft pedestal and through the mounting board and then out through the base of the case to a switch. Hopefully when completed there will still be an intact circuit.
-
Progress on port side interrupted by a frame faring error not appreciated when applying #11. No good options other than replacing that plank. This was a challenge! But with the help of Isopropyl alchocol, a Dremel router bit and small chisels, the plank came out. After cleaning the site with care not to damage adjacent planks, the replacement plank solved the original problem.
-
What brand and jaw config would you recommend? I did. The one you recommended. Just following up on Druxy’s advice. In the meantime, I am trying to get Dave at the Lumberyard to tell me if my recent wood orders were quarter sawn and whether he has Juniper. Henry
-
What brand and jaw config would you recommend?
-
Starboard side complete below the wale.
-
Progress on starboard side.
-
I hate it when the build falls off your lap onto the concrete floor.
-
First band of starboard planks below wale.
-
Main deck framing complete with mast partners.
-
Thanks Kevin. Already got them. Henry
-
Coming along. I’ve just ordered a draw plate from Jim Byrnes as my several plates are not as precise as I’d like. But I can’t seem to find a pair of drawing pliers. Anyone know of a vendor?
-
First wale plank in place.
-
Greg, the text on page 14 shows a drawing of an “apparent reversal of the sheer curve”. If I take the measurements off the plan, they produce a real reversal when applied to the model. The photo below shows the wake as applied with two lines marking 1) the upper edge as cut which conformed to the plan, and 2) the line that would produce a smooth curve. Which is correct??
-
Foremast partners. Clamping system for wale batten.
-
My hope is to hide the lights and wires as much as possible so they won’t be visible once the lights burn out.
-
If it fails, it fails. There’s no fixing it. Worse case, no lights. It was just an experiment really. Nothing ventured…….
-
Once the starboard deck is planked, the actual lights will be mostly hidden. The camera shows the lights more intense than they appear in reality. This is my second iteration. The first had more lights and longer stalks that were to be put in the cabins. But it proved too tedious with many shorts between adjacent soldered terminals and wire breakage. So this is a simplified version, which seems adequate to permit some visibility of lower deck details once the upper decks are installed. Henry
-
Thanks Greg. The resisters keep the light dim and I bought LED’s that have a “warm” light which is quite yellowish. If there’s too much light, I can cut out LED’s without interrupting the circuit.
-
I decided to experiment with micro LED illumination of the lower deck. Thus a pause in construction while I learn what to do. Purchased some micro LED’s which came with a separate bunch of resisters. Each LED came with 3” set of leads. Each positive lead is soldered to one of the resister leads, the other end of which is then soldered to a connector wire (red) of 28 ga insulated 36 v 5 amp colored wire. The negative LED lead is soldered to a black connector wire of similar specs. This was repeated at intervals, most on short stalks intended to run beneath the portion of main deck framing that won’t be planked, with a few long stalks to bring into more confined areas such as the crew quarters. The resulting string is shown powered by a switch box containing 2 1.5 v batteries.(double A). Each soldered junction is coated with liquid tape to prevent shorting against adjacent connections, which I found to be a big problem. The string will then be fed through an aft frame space and brought up to the under side of the main deck framing and secured with CA. At this point, the ledges can be added. We’ll see
-
The knees are pretty straightforward.
-
Didn’t remake the stern but after a few XM adjustments to the outer counter Timbers, things ended up OK. Now to start the main deck framing, using lessons learned from the lower deck. First thing was to lay out the line for the outer carlings, so they’re both symmetrical and make a smooth curve. I think it will look much better than my previous effort.
-
Anything left in the store? Henry 😳
Our Emblem ®
