hdrinker
-
Posts
218 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by hdrinker
-
Thanks to you all for your recommendations. I actually tried using brass tubing cut at an angle and soldered to brass sheet. The sheet I trimmed to an oval and bent up on the top to create the angle between the waterway and sperketing. A recess was then cut around the hole in the hull into which the metal was set to create a flush fit. This was done in two sections, inboard and out. I had many solder failures until I learned to predrill the sheet, as the heat tended to melt the solder otherwise. The result isn’t too bad.
-
The oval shape of the hole was achieved by angling the drill bit down into the lower intersection of the brass tube and flange. I must admit that the solder joints failed frequently with all that manipulation, but two did survive through the process. I’ll paint the results gray.
-
Thanks everyone. I made the two larger scuppers for the manger today out of brass tubing soldered at an angle to brass sheet, pre drilled. The sheet was then trimmed for the flange and bent on the top for the angle formed from the waterway to the spirketing. I used an end mill with the Dremel to make a recess. I’m
-
How does one make flanged scuppers.? I’ve read that pewter is ideal because it is the right color and is malleable. But what form does one start with.?
-
I’ve been thinking about scuppers, as I near the task of making them. If pewter is the material of choice, can anyone recommend what form of pewter to start with? I experimented yesterday on the mini lathe with solid aluminum rod. It’s doable but the results are quite bright…not terribly realistic. Pewter does make more sense, but I’m ignorant of a method. No one seems to sell pewter tubing. The paper idea sounds interesting. Any other suggestions?
-
I’ve been thinking about scuppers, as I near the task of making them. If pewter is the material of choice, can anyone recommend what form of pewter to start with?
-
Further progress on the main deck. Gun port stops next.
-
Main deck planking complete, as far as intended, to catch a glimpse of the deck below.
-
Currant plan is to use a darker color for the outer planks, which were apparently of oak for better wear beneath the cannons, and to only plank one side.
-
Meant planking!
-
Main deck framing underway. The wood is holly.
-
The sheeves for the stationary blocks are made from Ebony.
-
Outer hull complete. I found in the end that bamboo clear stock, not skewers, ordered online proved the best source for me for making tree nail dowels and was able to get them down to .020”, starting with very narrow strips cut on my Byrnes saw. Darker tree nails were made from Mansonia stock provided by Dave at the Lumberyard and drawn down to .030 from think strips.
-
Hi all, In my defense, I only put the stock into the draw plate from the countersunk side to get it in there. The taper directs the stock into the hole much more easily. I then bring the dowel all the way through to get it in position for the cutting step which, I’m well aware, is in the other direction. Also, by applying a slight angle to the plate, the cutting edge can be made to engage the stock more aggressively, removing a bit more stock. In that video, he stops at .036” which is a lot easier than going to .020”. Anyway, I’ve ordered some bamboo (not swizzle sticks) in hopes of getting stock without nodes, and will report on the results.
-
Are you using swizzle sticks, or some other source of bamboo?
-
I don’t like breakage!
-
The process of making the tree nail dowels has proven a challenge, for sure. I agree with Kevin that the Byrnes draw plate is exceptional for its accuracy and sharpness. However, any blade will dull with use over time, and this I have found to be true even with this excellent tool. After awhile the stock starts to compress rather than cut when drawn through successively smaller holes. More force becomes necessary and stress accumulates in the dowel, causing breakage and wastage. The solution for me has been (thanks Kevin) the sanding of the flat cutting surface with 100 gr. paper. This restores the sharp edge of the holes. Also, I started cutting the dowel stock narrow enough to just pass through the .059” (largest hole) in the plate. By the time I reached my goal of .031”, the length of the resulting dowel was drastically reduced, leading to more hours of rather tedious work to have enough material for application. By reducing the stock size on the table saw to .042” to start with, I found the process greatly accelerated with much less breakage and about 3 times the resulting amount of usable dowel by the time .031” was achieved.
-
Starboard topsides installed. Tree nails pending.
-
Sign me up! Can’t quite face the other side for awhile. Planning on completing the starboard planking topsides for a diversion and then maybe the deck.
-
Nailing below starboard wale complete. Roughly 2K nails! Anyone know of a shrink who specializes in tree nail overload?
-
I’m using Holly for the tree nails. Of all the stock I have, this seems to work best. Found bamboo difficult because of the nodes. Swiss Pear to brittle. Can’t get Juniper. Got the Holly down to 0.027” on average. Settled for that size. HD
-
So far, so good with the light circuit. Starting the tree nails. Planking complete on both sides and preliminary sanding.
Our Emblem ®
