Seventynet

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

Hi Shawn,
 
They seem to be scattered amongst several billets:

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

Hi Shawn,
 
They seem to be scattered amongst several billets:

Rick, you are doing a beautiful job. 
 
Ian

Hi Shawn,
 
They seem to be scattered amongst several billets:

Hi Shawn,
 
They seem to be scattered amongst several billets:

Question: I had a little time this morning to mess around and decide to assemble the frame with the O and X thru it. Assembly was easy and gave me an idea of how much sanding is in front of me. But me being me, I had to fit the frame on the keel. Small adjustments were needed as it was a very tight fit. Once fitted, I noticed the  bottom of the frame didn’t quite seat to the top of the rabbet, in other words, flush with the rabbet. Is this an issue? The plans clearly no space from the bottom of the frame to the top of the rabbet. So, question is, if the frame is to be flush with the top of the rabbet, do yo adjust the notch in the frame, or the notch in the rising wood?
 
 Best Regards …. Rick

Thats almost perfect.  When you fair the hull you fair into the rabbet.  The rabbet is a “V” shape.  But on our model just the top is angled to match the angle of framing into the rabbet when fairing.
 
Its almost perfect.  But to be safe…if you want to make the notch in the floor of the frame just a bit deeper it would be fine.  
 
BUT…are you sure you used the correct frame parts.  That doesnt look like the floors for that frame. But it could just be the angle of the photo.  

I moved on to work on the milling of the stepping line in the aft deadwood. I didn't want to ruin the deadwood piece on my first attempt so I quickly glued up a second iteration of the deadwood from some spare offcuts - it isn't quite the correct size or thickness but it did serve a purpose of letting me have a piece with which I could work out the best way to approach the task of milling in the steps. I used my mini Proxxon mill for this and was pretty pleased with my first attempt. Here it is with most of the steps milled in (or out?).

This gave me the confidence to try the same procedure on the proper aft deadwood assembly. Before I started the milling though I firstly drilled a couple of holes in the centre of the keel and the centre of the underneath of the aft deadwood so that it could later be pinned in place - this ensured that it sits centrally on the keel in the same position.
 
The dept of the milled area is 1/32", thereby reducing the 15" scale size timbers to 12" when repeated on both sides. The foremost step is so very very thin, much less than 1/32" high, and I was worried about the wood splitting there so I made sure to have a backing piece against it to avoid that. Here is the aftdeadwood pinned in place on the keel.

I need to do a bit more tidying up of the steps and the start of the curve of the bearding line with my chisels. 

I have a Veritas set up block set which includes pieces down to 1/32" and I have found these to be really handy for measuring depths or heights, and for use as shims on tapered pieces - for example if you need to cut a perpendicular edge on a tapered piece of wood. Above is the 1/32" piece showing the depth of the milled steps.
 
I have an also cut the sternpost and the inner stern post to size. Below is a mock up of the stern pieces all together on the keel. There is a lot more work that needs to be done on them yet though, including cutting out the rabbet, marking the bearding line and sanding the area below it before I can install any of them permanently to the keel.

 I have also cut out two lengths of 15" wide timber which will form the rising wood in due course, you can just see one of those to the top right of the picture above.

Thank you guys...we leave tomorrow.
 
Yes I am headed out to the north and south fork of Long Island.   Gonna check out some maritime stuff including some museums that have small boat collections.  Still researching that block island Cowhorn.  There is supposed to be a nice one in the museum there.  I will be online using my phone though....me always needs some MSW time....lol.
 
Planking has started...today.
 
The facstle is completed.  Nothing to really add except that I followed the planking scheme provided on the plans.   You can see that here.  You guys may of course change it.  I cut these from a 3/64" sheet following the plans rather than use strips.  There is quite a pronounced curve to these and they are small enough so it wasnt a chore.  I basically traced the plan sheet.  Tweaked and sanded to suit.  I used a #4H pencil to simulate the caulking between the planks.
 
Progress below.  One plank at a time.  The outermost planks are the hardest but not terrible.
 



 

While I was away, I had taken a bunch of milled cedar strips of various widths.  All were 3/64" thick.   I spent my evenings planking the decks which was quite nice and relaxing.  My wife was also enjoying some wine from the local vineyards while working on her own relaxing projects while overlooking the Long Island Sound.
 
Not much to say about how to plank the decks as the gun deck and poop were planked like any other deck.  Just taper the strips following the provided deck plans.   You must cut around the hatches and coamings as usual.   These were the most difficult planks to cut but not awful.   It just takes careful planning and cutting.
 
These were the last two planks which I waiting to return home so I could photograph them before gluing them in permanently.
 

Here are some photos of the completed deck planking.   The forecastle deck planks were cut from a 3/64" sheet because of their curvature as I mentioned.  But the gun deck and poop were planked with strips.  The curves are not that severe and it was a lot easier this way.   Note the gentle curve of the planks.
 

NOW...how much deck planking should be added.   Its really just a personal decision.  What do like more....or less.
 
I have an extra strake on the gun deck where  the cannon will be located.  I dont particularly like when the carriage trucks are hanging over the edge if there were too few strakes.   But maybe you are OK with that.  This planking scheme matches the plans I provided but you guys can change to suit your sensibilities.  Looking at the photos you can see why I omitted all of the deck knees (hanging and lodging).  You can try really hard but would ever be able to see even a whisper of them.  It just doesnt make sense to add them with this planking layout.  I hope you will agree.
 


Next up will be something I have been blissfully ignoring.  Its a bit terrifying for any ship modeler. I will be drilling the scupper holes and hawse holes.   Usually I drill the scuppers after adding the waterway.  But this usually chips and frays the waterway.   So I am going to try something new.  I will drill the scuppers first and then add the waterway strip.   I will mark and file the waterway strip so it will hopefully not get damaged.  We shall see.
 
The hawse holes are a different story.  Those will require some really careful planning.
 
But waiting any longer to do these will only make them more terrifying. 
 
Chuck
 

I'm ready to glue the parts of the apron together and noted that the upper parts are just slightly over size. See Pics. Obviously some material needs to be removed but from where? The front or back of the upper piece? Or both? Just want to be sure I don't create a future problem when the frames go on. Thanks
 

Looking good!! Well Done.  

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

Hull Planking, cont. .
It seems like forever since my last post. I had some personal matters to attend to amongst a few other things. Anyway, I'm looking forward to getting things back up to speed.
 
I'm working on a tricky part of the hull planking, those cutouts around the gun ports and sweep port lids. I really had to take my time here in order to avoid re-dos. The reveal around the gun ports is somewhere between 1/64"-1/32". A pillar file comes in really handy. It only cuts on one edge thus allowing for clean corner cuts. https://contenti.com/grobet-extra-narrow-pillar-files I use either a "0" and "2" cut.
 
I haven't done any sanding on the planking and as you can see it's a bit of a mess. The red color is Winsor & Newton "Crimson". In the past I would add a bit of Burnt Umber in order to darken the color. The two colors would often separate which I found to be a pain, so I decided to keep it simple this time around.

Mike

Thank you Glenn and Chuck. Also, thanks for the likes!
 
Sorry for the delay getting back but like a lot of us as we age, we start falling apart and have to be put back together. On the mend and all is good, but work will be slow for the next few weeks. Before I went down for repairs, I completed the deadwood and wedges as well as added all the simulated bolts on the keel.
 
Over time I will have a lot of sanding and cleaning char in my future.

The belfry: technical implementation tests:
 



 
Final version in ebony wood:

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

A short update. I glued the upper parts of the lower apron apron together. I still need to shape them. I also removed the lower apron part from its sacrificial wood piece (I stuck it back on with some double sided tape) and tested it against my keel. I noted there is a gap between the part and the rabbet strip. Not sure why, so that's something I need to figure out. I think it could be the cedar strip behind the laser cut rabbet strip is still a little too thick but I'm not sure because I did thin it down a bit.
 

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian