Seventynet

The soon to be new owner of this model ….you guessed it….has an English Bulldog named meatball.  All customer requests must be considered, LOL.  He wanted Meatball on deck being walked by the captain.  Hopefully I Will have a happy customer.   
 
Meet Meatball.
 

Here are some better pics....the last one was just on my phone.
 
I wasnt just painting figures today, I also finished up the tiller.  I was going to do a mash-up with metal and mixed media or even just make the tiller from all brass like Greg did.  But that seemed a lot when I am awful at metal work.   I also dont have those tools and havent soldered a thing in my life.  So I said why not just 3D print the tiller.  Its all painted black and many of you kit builders dont have the tools to do the metal work anyway.  So the Tiller is 3D printed and all you have to do is paint it black which was done on the contemporary model...and glue it in position.  I would say that it looks as it is supposed to and much better than if I fumbled through a soldering exercise. 
 

 
All of the deck-work and fittings are now done except for the binnacle.  But next up is the remaining outboard hull details.  Starting with the channels and deadeyes.
 
But here are a few pics of the deck fittings all done including the tiller.
 





 
 

Continuing the conversation...a more complex carving
Using drawings...I really hate how easy it has become to steal stuff but it doesnt take a rocket surgeon to figure this stuff out.  If you are using it for your own model its fine.  It is just another tool.  If you use it for commercial purposes then its not cool at all.
 
 
Here is my drawing, a very bad one done for one of the speedwell transom carvings.  It is right from my plans.  So if you have decent plans for your model....you are good to go.  If you can draw even better.   All you need is a good line drawing.
 

 
Plugging this rather doodle like drawing I made into Meshy.  I wanted to show you what a line drawing would turn into.   Or from a plan drawing.  
 
You get this.  I couldnt carve this.   You can adjust the relief thickness in other programs as well.
 

If you are curious and ask it to try again....you get another version...can you spot the AI weirdness.  I m not saying it is perfect yet.  But I couldnt come close to carving this thing.  And certainly not in 45 seconds.  By the way I paid a CAD guy to create mine and this figure or any one figure like this would cost me $250 to $300 to have done.  I feel sorry for those guys in the next few years as the programs get better and better.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I've made some progress on the fore part.
The modifications from the kit are the davit and the bitt.

Hello,
 
The trabaccolo is ready to be launched! I took the pictures outside where the light is better.
 
Have a nice day. 😄

This capstan kit will be an open source project.  I will set it all up and add the downloadable stl files for 3d printing and dfx and pdf files for laser cutting.  
 
This group will have 3 sections…
 
1. I will create a build log of the step by step construction of the capstan.
 
2. I will create a build log of sorts for the laser cutting…materials and techniques. 
 
3.  Lastly a brief chat about the 3d printing…what resin I use …dyeing the pieces…i will provide pre supported stl files as well as those without supports.
 
With these technologies becoming more common,  we should have projects like this one.
 
In addition,  I will look for someone in the UK or Europe who wants to produce this as a kit.  To avoid tariffs and steep shipping.  And also someone in the USA to mfg as a kit…for the same reasons.  This way folks who dont have the equipment may get a chance to buy a kit and build it.  
 
I have no interest in making $$$ on the project so those who want to make this as a kit can have the license to do so free of charge and for life.
 
Maybe Chris W and ScrubbyJoe…
 
We shall see.
 
Its a nice fun little project…no more than two weeks to build once you have the parts.
 
Chuck

Two things...
 
I realize my store was closed two weeks ago when I had the flu.  That sucked.  But unfortunately I have to close the store down again for a while.  This time it is for a long planned road trip with my wife.  We are leaving for Canada (Niagara on the Lake) with stop overs on the way there.  A much needed break for the both of us.  While there, I will be taking part in the Admiralty Workshop with David Antscherl on POF building techniques.   So I will be closed until I return on the 19th.  Sorry guys, it couldnt be helped.
 
Lastly...some pics of the latest on the Capstan Project.  I will start a build log when I return.   Its something different will really make a nice display.  It will also make for a nice tutorial on 3D printing and laser cutting if everything goes to plan.  You can see some of the designed resin parts in the photos.  The columns, legs and central drum parts with pawls.   The balance will be done with laser cut wood parts.  You dont have to go black like I did but I just prefer this.  The letters around the base were laser cut on special material with gold leaf letters on a black background.  Most of the parts are not glued together yet and just test fit.  Its all good so far!!!
 



 

Probably...I am thinking of doing something new with this capstan project...and the internally stropped blocks.
 
There are a lot of folks who have 3d printers and a laser cutter these days.  So I am thinking about doing a group project here at MSW and releasing all the files.  Then doing a tutorial on how to assemble the project and color the pieces.   But yes I will also mfg all the parts for folks who dont have that equipment.  Or who knows...maybe one of the group will to do that.   As I get closer to retirement I am trying to concentrate on teaching and mentoring rather than just making money.   So the Capstan Project uses a lot of laser cutting techniques that folks still dont use.   I dont know why.  Like laser cutting on both sides of a piece etc.
 
And 
 
So many parts these days are available as 3D printed parts but they have to be painted or dyed.   The internally stropped blocks need to be painted and its no different.  But many folks dont know how to make parts look like wood quickly and easily and make them look realistic.  I have to tweak the blocks to make the sheave slots a bit wider which means a day of CAD corrections but these worked out great.   I think making the stl files available and then talking about washing and curing and then finishing the parts would make a great online class.  It takes just a minute to properly paint these blocks.  So many people offer 3D printed wood parts that dont look anything like wood.  So this class would at help.   The three blocks in the foreground were finished just this morning in about 10 minutes.   The original untreated 3D prints are behind it.  It makes a world of difference.   Then we would graduate to the Capstan project...
 
The capstan project would make an excellent group project for any local club...I am hoping that at least one or two members of each local club might have the equipment and could possibly make a dozen kits for their own clubs.
 
But that is just a pipe dream at this point...
 
What do you guys think?
 
 
 

So a little bit of progress. I’m going pause work until the next chapter has arrived. As you can see I decided to partially plank the port side and fully plank the other side. This is how I did my Hayling Hoy and I really liked the effect. I know I’ve made more work for myself because now I will have to plank the corresponding insides.
 
Lining the hull into 3 sections:

Laying the Garboard strake:

Lining out the rest of the hull:

Half way there:

Finished starboard side:


From the bow:

Port side finished:








Treenailed with 25lb monofilament:






Notice how translucent Holley is. You can see the frames through the hull. If I turn off the overhead light you can’t see the frames anymore. 5/32 Cap rails installed.

Inside faired:


Cheers all,
Ian

Aft Platform
 
Time to report on my progress. This time it is the aft platforms. But before doing that, I need  to mention that I finally discovered where the small triangular pieces of chapter 2  are going. These complete the last cant frame at the transom as shown in the photos below, before and after fairing. Yes they can be omitted, but they should help to secure the corner of the side plank that will be glued later.
 

For the platform framing, I proceeded as before with cardboard height references. To get to the proper height I needed to do more fairing of the frames. It is a bit tricky to get all those beams a the right position with clean adjustment at the frame.  Here it is very helpful to work with a card board template of the platforms. 
 

I found it easier to assemble the platforms separately.  It easier to cut out the hatches and sand the planking. 

The upper platform was done the same way. 

Adjusting the upper platform height is easier as the bottom platform and the bottom of the transom can be used as reference for the fore and aft ends, respectively. The inboard great cabin planking expansion (plan sheet four) is also useful to check that the upper platform is at the correct height. Here are a few shots of the completed platforms.
 


 
I can now probably do the cabin wall planking while waiting for the next chapters.
 
 
 
 

Coming soon MAYBE???  I was looking for a nautical puzzle that was interesting and colorful and there just isnt much out there.  Soooo....
 
500 piece and 1000 piece jigsaw puzzles of ship models/Ships like this.  They are very fanciful and all in this style.  Very whimsical Dali-esque indeed.  Since they are somewhat expensive to produce I figured I would gauge how much interest is out there.
 
The second image is actually my Winnie model but as you guessed it made into a fantasy image...very puzzle like as you would want and expect.  I have this image on order for myself but thought maybe to produce others if you guys are puzzlers.
 

Hello,
 
Waterway  and "corsia"  fitted.
The deck of the trabaccolo was wide and noticeably convex, with a thicker plank in the center called a "corsia"

Finished the files for the cannons on HMS Tiger ca. 1650 to 1690. I'm not sure just when this set of cannons were carried. The cannons are from illustrations in the book "The Master Shipwright's Secrets".  Three of the cannons in the pictures had no cypher, so that is how I drew them.
 
These drawings were requested by a forum member.
 
6 Foot 6 Inch Saker 6 Pounder
 

6 Foot 6 Inch Saker 6 Pounder Full Size_2166_14mm.stl
 
 
7 foot Saker 6 Pounder
 

7 Foot Saker 6 Pounder_Full Size_2436_94mm.stl
 
9 Foot 3 Inch Saker 6 Pounder
 

9 Foot 3 Inch Saker 6 Pounder Full Size_3050_38mm.stl
 
 
9 Foot Demi-Culvern 12 Pounder This was shown with the Tudor Rose cypher.
 

 
9 Foot Demi_Culveren 12 Pounder Full Size_2945_34mm.stl
 
Rupertino Saker Cutt 6 Pounder. This cannon is based on a cut down cannon. They shortened cannons from a previous design whose muzzles had cracked, for the original Cutt cannons, liked the performance, and cast new cannons to this length with a muzzle flair. This cannon has the King Charles II cypher.
 
 

Rupertino_Saker_Cutt 6 Pounder Full Size_1716_09mm.stl
 
 
Though I can't promise when, I have already drawn the Commonwealth Pattern cannon barrels, and will be posting them after I've added the Charles II cyphers. This cypher gave me a lot of trouble, and takes a while to "weld" to the 3D barrels.
 
 
 

Back to ship stuff. I finished the master drawing for the King Charles II cypher. This is the last piece for the HMS Tiger cannons I'm doing for a forum member. After I finish those I will complete the Charles II era Commonwealth cannons, to (hopefully) be added to the other cannon files in the Resources Section of the NRG site. The Commonwealth barrels are drawn, I need to add this cypher to the barrels.
 
The depth of the Solid is so I can fit it in the 3D barrels. The 3 different levels of relief with be trimmed parallel to the barrel, and the part sticking inside removed.
 


 
 
 

I finally attached the rudder to the stern post.   It was very similar to the way we did the hinges on the rudder itself.   But here is the step by step for the folks building her as well.
 
First thing I taped the rudder in position getting it tight against the stern post.  Then I marked the angle and position for the hinges to be placed on the stern post.  I used a very sharp awl for this.  I had laser cut some small notched down the stern post where these were meant to be.  This was also there just for reference and the notches were made narrower than the 1/16" needed to insert the hinge part.  This was just in case you needed to shift up or down a bit from those initial reference points. They really shouldnt be far off.  This also means that yes you will have to chisel those slots wider using your scribed marks.  Its not much and it is yellow cedar.  So it is soft and quick with a sharp chisel or #11 blade.
 

This time we will pre shape the laser cut hinge parts as shown below.  Just knock of the corners on an angle to match the ones on the rudder.  Insert a small length of 22 gauge black wire in each of the four needed.  Thhese were painted black ahead of time as well.

Once you open up those slots on the stern post these should be a nice tight press fit in each slot.  just center them make sure the sides are flush with the stern post.  The wire or simulated hinge pin faces downward.

A quick test fit with the rudder to see if I screwed up their placement.  Luckily everything lined up pretty good.  Note that if you have trouble sliding the rudder post into the rudder opening in the counter after adding these, you will need to open up that rudder port a bit.  Not much but use a file to carefully enlarge the aft side of the opening until the rudder clears through it.  It should sit on the hinge parts (pintles and gudgeons) very nicely.

Then add some 1/16 x 1/64 strips with the edges painted black ahead of time.  Just like on the rudder!  Use the scribed lines you made with the awl to establish the correct angle.  Only make these as long as the stern post at this point.  We will take care of the two longer lower hinges later.  Sand them as you did with those on the rudder and paint them black.

Here is what they look like painted up...

Finally the rudder can be added permanently, or NOT...its up to you.  This is not a working rudder as I mentioned earlier.  Its just simulated.  The rudder hinges were just glued together to mount it.  With the pins sticking out the underside it will look just like it is supposed to.  Then just touch up the paint and add some bolts if you wish to.  Or you can wait until after the lower two straps are added next.

For the two lower straps that extend onto the hull we have a few options.  I will tell you what I did though.  Feel free to go another way with it.  These straps should sit on top of hull planking that doesnt exit on our framed model.  So a modest layer of planking must be added so the strap can sit on top of it.  Sometimes you see a wider strip of planking that the straps sit on but I am going to make them the same width as the iron straps. Its easy to do.  I just took some painted 1/64 x 1/16" strips which were black and glued them to another strip of the same size.  Depending on your model you might need a 3/64" thick strip for the simulated planking or thinner.  This is so the hinge strap lines up with what is on the stern post.  I used 1/32" strips which worked out nicely for the underplanking.

Use the plans to measure how long these straps should be on the hull.  Shape them and glue them on.  Make sure you glue them on at the same angle as the hinges on the stern post.  You can mark that angle once again like you did before using a sharp awl or pencil.
 

Some photos of the completed rudder mounted with my simulated pintels and gudgeons.  Once again add bolts if you want to using the black fishing line.
 


 
The tiller is next...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck

To complete the rudder, we have to add the hinges (pintels and gudgeons).  As is usually the case with me on such iron work, I wont be doing any soldering.   You have heard me say often on this project and others..."Fake it till you make it"...this will be the case for these rudder hinges as well.  To start, paint both sides of the laser cut pieces for the hinges black.  You will be thankful you did later on.

Then glue them onto position on the rudder.  Glue them against the top edge of the slots for them in the rudder.  Note...I wont be creating a working rudder with hinge pins.  For the life of me I dont understand why folks do that at all.  Its not like anyone will be playing with the rudder later.  It will be displayed under glass forever so it doesnt make sense to me.  But if you want to show this you can do so by inserting some 22 gauge black wire into the holes laser cut in these pieces.   My rudder will be stationary but you wont be able to tell any difference once its all done.  Hopefully.  Both sides of these pieces should be flush with the sides of the rudder at this point so sand them flush if you need to.  I have also prepared the hinge strips in advance.  They are 1/16" x 1/64" boxwood strips.  They edges were painted black in advance.  Again you will be doing yourself a huge favor if you do that.
 

These strips were added to the rudder using the laser etched lines as a guide so the correct angles are easily found.   Just let them run off the forward side for now.  Once they are all in position, you can sand the hinges to shape as shown below.  You can also see the top hinge has not yet been trimmed or shaped.   Once completed on both sides, sand the faces of the strips a little, especially if you prefer a thinner hinge strap.  You dont want to make them too heavy.  You can even taper the thickness thinner as they work their way towards the aft edge.
 

Now its optional but this is the time where you can drill along those straps and insert some bolts.  I used 20lb black fishing line.  Then paint the straps black.  You can even apply some weathering powder to these hinges if you want them to look more like metal.  I brushed on a little brown powder although its hard to see that in the photos.
 

 
Here is how the rudder looks all finished up and with black rudder hinges.  Its a pretty effective way to make these and can be done on any model...and you dont even need a laser cutter to do it.
 

With the rudder completed I will start making the married partners for these hinges in much the same way so I can attach it to the model.  But at least you can get an idea of how it will ultimately look.
 

 
 
 
 

Started chapter 10.   The rudder is first thing.
 
The usual treatment for rudder.  It is laser cut and etched on both sides with some lines for the ironwork and to simulate the two parts of the rudder.   The laser char is removed from all edges until its pretty clean.
 
Then the protective strip on the aft side is shaped and glued into position.  But dont add the bolts yet.   In addition, add the protective strip along the bottom of the rudder too. (1/16" x 5/16") The rudder must be shaped first with a taper.  It tapers thinner from the top of this protective strip (1/16" x 5/16") down to the bottom on the aft side.   And from the forward side towards the aft edge as well.  I am sure you guys have seen this before yet so many kit builds still have a massively thick rudder.  The forward edge is also beveled where the rudder hinges will be...again you have probably seen this detail before.  Once the rudder is shaped and I applied some wipe-on-poly, I was able to add the simulated bolts with some 20lb. black line.
 


 
 
Now it was time to do a test fit on the model and see how things look.  You want to pay close attention to the height of rudder head.  It will pass all the way through and into the rudder cover on the poop deck.
 
This is why we didnt glue that top on the rudder cover yet.  If the height looks good, you can actually mark where the tiller will be inserted into the rudder head.   See below.  I did bevel the top of the rudder head but it doesnt really matter since this will be all covered up anyway.  After marking for the tiller I drilled part way through the rudder head with a 3/32" but.
 

 
Here is a view from below...everything seems to fit nicely so I can proceed with the ironwork.  Notice how I removed the brace on the build board but left the strips for the keel slot.  The rudder sits in there good and this will be a great help when trying to get those rudder hinges on.  It holds everything nice and steady.   You just have to make sure everything is sittin properly in that slot and pushed all the way down to the baseboard.
 

Milestone reached as this completes chapter 9.  All of the deck fittings except for the binnacle have been completed.   The last fitting was the rudder cover.   Again very straight forward.  All parts are laser cut.
 
To begin you must build the jig.  Just glue the part labeled "jig" on top of the square with the etched outline.
 

Then start adding the sides of the rudder cover.  Start with the back panel.  All corners will be mitered or beveled.  I just eye-balled it with a sanding stick.
 

Work your way forward and then finish up with the front panel.  Remember not to glue the rudder cover to the jig!!!
 
In addition, you can build the lid or top of the rudder cover.  It is in two layers as shown.  But dont glue it on yet.  This wont be done until after the rudder is installed and the tiller is added.  I did go ahead and paint them red however.
 


You can test fit this on deck...but notice the small step behind the rudder cover.   This is the step for the ensign staff.   This must be added first.  I have laser cut a bunch for you as they are small.  You must bevel the back side to fit snug against the transom.   The front side should be beveled as well to sit flush against the rudder cover.  You can glue them in position, but remember not to glue the top on for the rudder cover yet.  If you do ... you will never get that till inserted into the rudder head.
 

But you can sit the top in position and nobody will know it isnt glued on yet!!
 

Thats it...all fittings completed.   To begin chapter 10 I will be making the rudder and tiller.  Fun times.
 

I hope my fellow Speedwell builders will allow me this indulgence.   The breast rail at the fore end of the poop deck is actually quite plain on the contemporary model.  I usually try to faithfully keep my models to historically correct details but I couldnt resist.  The original draft for the Sloop Fly which is her sister has a very detailed and fancy rail quite different than the plain one on Speedwell.  I have decided to go with that rendition.  It is made in the usual fashion for my fittings.  Nothing earth shattering.  They are just laser cut pieces in layers.  The top rail for example is made by sandwiching 3 thin layers together.  The top and bottom layers are just .025 thick.  The center layer is a robust 1/32" thick.  I still thinned down the top and bottom layers even more after gluing them up as a sandwich.   
 
The only thing that is really important here is to make sure that the two outer columns are lined up with their partners below on the bulkhead between the windows.  I also had had to take care in forming the curve on the column next to the dome roof.  It had to be sanded to fit nicely around that curve and sit flush against it.  The close-ups are brutal and yes I have a lot of paint touch up in my future.
 
The top of the rail is painted black as was done on the contemporary model while the remaining areas are painted red.  Only one fitting remains and that is the rudder trunk cover.   I will make that next.  I will add a binnacle as well, but leave that for the next chapter after the rudder is installed.   
 

 

 

 

Hello and thank you for all the likes,
today I finished the ship mostly. The rigging is complet and only the oars and some smaler things must be fastened. Some pictures with the last sun for today. More tomorrow

The step - by - step...
 
The capstan is built almost exactly like the one for the Winnie.  The main difference is the center drum.  That added a bit of tedium to this task.  With the 3D printer however it can be made in one piece and perfectly shaped.  The benefit is that it saves so much time and it is so precise.  It will also not be seen at all when the capstan is completed.
 
You need to cut a 3/32" x 3/32" strip to use as the registration for the other layers.  Its a little big initially by design.  You need to sand it so the pieces are a nice press fit when you slide them on.   But dont force the layers onto the strip because you could break the thinner layers.  You can see some of the layers in the photo below.  The two at the top have had the laser char cleaned from the sides.  I used a sanding stick.  Dont worry about the three at the bottom yet.
 

Those are next...slide them onto the strip (or use an entirely different strip) gluing the three layers together.  But dont glue it to the strip as you will want to remove it.

See below
 

To make it easier to remove the char from these assemblies, you can place them onto a 3/32" strip as long as its a tight fit...otherwise it will fly off.  But then chock it in your hand drill and have at it.  Use a fine grit sanding stick.  Its soft wood so be careful.  This is a later process when most of the drum is  glued up in layers and being sanded. But I wanted to show you that you didnt have to sand them by hand.
 

You need to do that to the three center layers with the square holes first.  Then glue that on top of the slightly larger disc with the square etched onto it for reference. Then glue the top on and sand it as shown in the photo above with the drill.  I also sanded a slight dome shape into the top side of the drum while on the drill.   This makes the sides a bit thinner and gives the top a nice shape.  But keep the center area flat for the last small top layer.  I thinned the top this way until the side edge was 3/64" thick or close to it.
 

I am not sure if you can see the top shaped like a dome or rounded off but now that last small disc can be added.   But first go ahead and glue the drum assembly to the 3D printed center first.  Then snip off any excess 3/32" strip sticking out above the center and sand it flush.

Then glue the little disc on top and center it with the etched circle that should help you do just that.  Then its time for the whelps.   There are plenty of extra provided.  But sand them free of laser char and glue them to each face of the 3D printed center.   Make sure you but them flush against the bottom edge of the drum.  Note the laser etched mortices on both side of each whelp.  These are for the chocks.  Take a look at them before you glue them in position and flatten them out if need be with a small file.  Sometimes the etched surface isnt perfect and needs a little cleaning up.  A few swipes with a file should do the trick.

With the whelps all finished...start adding the chocks.  These will take some time.  The thicker chocks are the bottom row.  You will most likely have to sand both sides of the pie pieces and test them in position.  Make sure they fit tight in the mortices of the whelps.  Dont rush this as a clean tight fit is what makes the capstan look so good.   The sand the outside edge concave or convex with a curve depending on if it is the top or bottom row of chocks.
 
The chocks are over-sized so you will be shaping and testing and repeating the process.  Plan on spending an entire day building this capstan with care.

Then add the simulated bolts with some 20lb blk fishing line.  There are also bolts on the top of the drum.  The holes along the outside of the drum are for the pins that hold the capstan bars.  They are not for bolts and should remain as holes.  All the other laser cut holes around the center of the drum were places there for your simulated bolts.  So add those as well.
 

 
Thats it...it will take some time to do a decent job.  But remember that there are fewer deck fittings on this little sloop and therefor it is even more important to do a respectable job on them.  They will all be front and center and a focus point when anyone views the model.  You can pint it red or leave natural.  The contemporary model is painted red.   I havent decided yet.  What do you guys think?
 
There are also two pawls that were used to stop the capstan from turning.  Only one side was engaged at a time.  One goes to port and the other to starboard.  See the plans.  These were made from scrap 1/16" x 1/16" strips and glued into position.
 

 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Very nice job!

Just a small update.  Put in the back stay.  I tied it down to the cleat but haven't glued it yet until I get all of the other stays in place.  The mizzen mast back stay loosened up and I don't want to repeat that.  
 

 
There were two sheets attached to the luff and tied to the rail.  I also added two of the blocks to front of the main lanteen yard, but I will have photos of that on the next update.
 

 

Speaking of simulated bolts...someone was asking about them.
 
Here is the capstan which I am literally finishing up this afternoon.  So I figured its a good time to show the bolts in progress. It is all yellow cedar.  It has many bolts which add so much to its look when finished.   In this case I am using 20lb blk fishing line.  I just cut some sort lengths and stick them into some pre drilled holes.  Nothing difficult here.  They need to be a press fit so no glue is needed.  I am using a #73 bit for the holes.  Then just slice them off so they are slightly proud of the surface.  That is it.
 

 
I will have a step - by - step for the capstan later today hopefully.  The capstan is painted red on the contemporary model....sooo  I have yet another decision.  
 
But it turned out well.
 

 
Chuck

Moving right along...
 
The elm pumps and mast coats were completed.  The mast coats were straight forward.  They were made by gluing three lasercut layers together.  The same as on the Winnie and other projects.  These are interesting however as the are octagonal.  So are the masts partly up their length.   The laser char was removed and the top edges were beveled or rounded off.   Then they were glued together and painted as on the contemporary model.   
 
The pumps were a whole different story.   On the contemporary model these pumps are quite elegant and light.  They are shown with very thin parts and slightly different than others I have seen or built.  There is a long slender metal post that supports the handle.  The handle is also very thin and long.  How these builders achieved this detail at 1/4" scale just amazes me.  They are also painted red on the contemporary model.  Just look at how thin and delicate the pumps are on the model below.  Note the small carved panel detail on each face of the pump.  I really wanted to see if I could replicate this same delicate look on my model at 3/8" scale.  Although less worn and dusty, LOL.
 


 
Anyhow...I decided to try my hand at 3D printing this.  Not only to make construction easier but maybe I can incorporate some of those more delicate details this way.  The photo below also shows the mast coats completed and painted.   For the pumps I had to create a left and right matching pair.   The body and its long slender metal post is all designed as one piece.  My attempt at those very subtle carved panels can hopefully be seen in my poor photographs.  You can leave the pumps natural and just paint the metalwork or go red as I have done.  Its up to you and they are printed with a tan/boxwood color resin for this purpose.  
 
The handle is laser cut from actual boxwood since it will be left natural and ties in an actual wood element to help pull off the realistic look.  I added a piece of 24 gauge black wire to the handle before gluing the handle onto the pump.   There is a hole in the bottom of the pump hole for this but I did drill it out larger for the wire.   I glued the handle in position trying to establish the same height and angle for them port and starboard.
 

Here is what they look like on the model.   There were holes in the deck where the pumps will go to help with placement so you can kind of match them to the pump tubes below deck.  Its not very difficult to do.
 

While not a perfect match to the contemporary model I think the slender and delicate look has been faithfully recreated.  I also decide what the hay...and painted the bsprit step red as well as I complete more deck fittings.  Oh and the mast coats are not glued in position yet.  That will be left for later when we step the masts.
 

 
One last fitting remains on the gun deck.  That is the capstan and I will build that next.   Then its onto the poop deck rail and details.
 
Chuck