qwerty2008

I added a pin rail and stuns'l booms, unless I think of some final details I missed it is ready for bottling. If all goes well I will take alot of pictures and bottle it tomorrow.
 
Lextin.

Very nice.  I can't wait to see more.  

I finished the rigging, I would like to add some more detail to the decks but if I add to much detail I wont be able to get it in the bottle without damaging it. I also made the cradle to hold it in place in the bottle.
 




 
Lextin.

I finished the rigging, I would like to add some more detail to the decks but if I add to much detail I wont be able to get it in the bottle without damaging it. I also made the cradle to hold it in place in the bottle.
 




 
Lextin.

I don't know anything about American ships of the line but doesn't the topmast normally connect in front of the lower mast? why is it connected behind the lower mast on the Pennsylvania? or is the pole i'm seeing some sort of flagstaff? if so disregard my first two questions.
thanks.
 
Lextin.

This is a few more photos of the mast.
 

I did some more work on the rigging (the foot ropes are out of scale but I couldn't get them any smaller) the topmast shrouds are complete the lower shrouds will be attached to the hull and have long strings that will be threaded through a hole drilled in the top of the mast when I install the mast I will pull the strings to tighten up the shrouds.
 






 
Lextin.

I did some more work on the rigging (the foot ropes are out of scale but I couldn't get them any smaller) the topmast shrouds are complete the lower shrouds will be attached to the hull and have long strings that will be threaded through a hole drilled in the top of the mast when I install the mast I will pull the strings to tighten up the shrouds.
 






 
Lextin.

I haven't got much work done around Turkeyday but I was able to make the lower gundeck cannons and the mast. The mast is made from a bamboo skewer the topmast and topgallant mast are made from bamboo toothpicks the yards are also toothpicks.
 






 
Lextin.

I haven't got much work done around Turkeyday but I was able to make the lower gundeck cannons and the mast. The mast is made from a bamboo skewer the topmast and topgallant mast are made from bamboo toothpicks the yards are also toothpicks.
 






 
Lextin.

Some more progress on the Victory I made the finale deck and painted the hull I also added the wales and the starboard gunports. 
   As promised here are some pics of it apart.




 
Lextin.

Augie actually I had no idea.  Now I do.  
 
Thanks Bob and Mark.  Your comments are always appreciated.
 
I tried three different things and the last one worked.  I worked on some separate paper and didn't have much luck so I opted to just drill the holes with my pin vise.  No such luck it got all torn up and the holes weren't straight.  So I thought I may as well try the cutting method and see what happens.  That just made it worse so I cut off the bulwarks altogether.  I then cut a 1mm thin plank and cut it into 2mm pieces.  I glue each piece on to the ship leaving a space for the gun port.  I let it dry and then added a cap rail and the channels underneath.  I think I will paint these to bring them out.  Any suggestions on the colors is welcome I'm not sure yet what I want to do.  I'm shooting for as historically accurate as possible given no one knows what the ship looked like.  In other words common colors for ships in this era.  
 
I have one cannon in for sizing.  I think that looks about right.  I will cut out the rest of the cannons and add some hatches.  I also have to do the gun ports on the side.  I had planned 10 guns ports but managed to get only get eight.  I think I'll put to more on a higher deck.  I still have to build that up as well.  These tiny ships are still a lot of work.   
 

 
  

Planking is on.  I stained some paper and then cut it in 1 mm strips.  I started from the top and glued that one to the plug.  The rest are glued to each other each overlapping.  I then put on a couple coats of clear nail polish to seal it and make it stiffer.  A resin maybe better but I don't have any at the time being so I went with the nail polish.  
 

 

 

 

 
Once the polish is dry I will work on removing the plug.
 

Cabin Structure part 10
 
This series of pictures shows the laying of the long planks and the inserts of the "Screw Plugs"
 
The first picture shows the planks glued to the beams after they have been drilled with an .048" drill which is close to a 3/8th scale screw plug. a 3/64th would have been more accurate which is .046875" I can live with it.
 

 
Close up of the caulking rabbet
 

 
The first plugs glued in.
 

 
After the glue had set the dowels were cut off with an exacto saw blade proud of the plank surface.
 

 
The plug was then pared down with a very sharp chisel.
 

 

 
The rest of the plugs setting up.
 

 
The next part will cover the companionway and slide logs.
 
Michael
 
 

I started on a HMS Victory cross section in a bottle. I made the hull by laminating strips of card over a form the decks are made from card as well they will be attached to the hull by strings that when pulled will assemble the model then the mast and rigging will be added. I still need to make one more deck then I can start making the details such as cannons the mast step and the chain pumps.




 
Lextin.

I made the sails and did a final test fit. Next will come the cradle and the final install.


 

I started on a HMS Victory cross section in a bottle. I made the hull by laminating strips of card over a form the decks are made from card as well they will be attached to the hull by strings that when pulled will assemble the model then the mast and rigging will be added. I still need to make one more deck then I can start making the details such as cannons the mast step and the chain pumps.




 
Lextin.

I started on a HMS Victory cross section in a bottle. I made the hull by laminating strips of card over a form the decks are made from card as well they will be attached to the hull by strings that when pulled will assemble the model then the mast and rigging will be added. I still need to make one more deck then I can start making the details such as cannons the mast step and the chain pumps.




 
Lextin.

Well I'm starting a new build log.  I know I have a Syren I haven't touched, and a Satisfaction that needs a complete redo.  Well they're going to have to wait.  I've come to a couple conclusions recently that have lead me to decide on the build and the method for the build.  Point one my time is limited.  I got a lot of life going on so I've decided it's about time I build a ship for myself.  I've always had an interest for the QAR and that interest was sparked again by this guy Queen Anne's Revenge by Shipmodel.  If you haven't seen his log check it out Dan's doing some great work.  In any case I'm going to build a ship I have some interest in because this time I'm not selling it to Pirates or trading it to Spanish Ladies for bonsai.  (If you want to know what that means check out my Santa Maria and Mercury build links in my signature.)  This time I'm keeping it.  
 
Second point.  I was inspired by DFellingham's build the Esmeralda (also a great log) to build a the long boat of the Mercury out of paper using a wood plug.  It came out nicely.  
 

 
Since then I have been contemplating the idea of building a full ship using this method.  Now I'm going to put this idea into action.  This will be only the second time I've tried this so if it totally fails the first few times stick with me.  I've had two builds now that flopped on me after the first few posts and I must say it's embarrassing.  Lucky for me your all good sports.  
 
Also to add to the time constraints point this build has a specific dead line.  I found that I have a break between my school semesters from Nov 24th to December 9th.  So while I have more time not having to do home work I get to build.     Also since I have such a tight deadline I can't worry about to many details so this build is going to me small....
 

 
This is the plug I'm going to use.  The ship will actually be made of paper stained with wood stain and cut into little tiny strips.  The plug is covered in wax and the paper stips glued on like planks.  After the glue dries the ship comes off the plug.  The tricky part will be adding the masts, spars, rigging and sails.  Will I try ratlines this time?  ......most likely.     
 
 
 

Ron, thanks for stopping by.
 
Today I worked on the edge moulding for the hatch sides the split tube design was described in the fourth edition of "Boat Building Manual" by Robert M Seward on page 244 showing typical slide details.
I developed a drawing and the split tube needed to mate to the edge of the mahogany board which is 1/8th inch thick or 1 inch in scale. the boards still need to be tapered and spline d before joining them.
 

 
Set up the mill
 

 

 

 
Michael

I have been working on the removable keel the past couple of days. I made the fin and cut the slots for the bolts I also made a muckup weight from foam board the weight will be cast from approximately 30 pounds lead but first I will do another float test just to make sure that it will need 30 pounds if not I will adjust accordingly.

 
 
Lextin 

Working on the plasticine “sea” some more. I wanted the surface of the water to appear more realistic so I added waves and whitecaps. Waves were achieved by rolling clay “snakes” and laying them in on the surface of the sea diagonally and then slightly mashing them down. The snakes were of a slightly darker color than the base sea. Note that I have tied the bottle down tight to the base it will sit on. I don't want the bottle rolling around since from this point on it often takes two hands to manipulate things.   
 
I made a bunch of shorter and much thinner white clay snakes and laid them in on top of my “waves” and mashed them down. The white clay quickly blends into the sea and looks pretty good for a very small amount of effort.
 
If I were modeling a ship underway and not molested by a monster, I would at this point make the ships bow wave and wake using the same white snake method.

Another step is to remove a little bit of the “water” your ship (or in this case your creature) will displace so that the hull can be bedded in the sea firmly. I make a paper template of the hull or creatures waterline and put it in the bottle over the spot the assemblage is going to sit on and using an improvised tool I scrape out the outline of the ship or creature. I remove the template then excavate some of the clay out. How much clay to remove and how deep you go will be determined by your models draft. This is a slow messy uscientific process. The best tool I found for this bottle for this job was not my fancy articulated arm, it was a bit of stout copper wire wrapped around the end of a dowel. To get the angle I needed on the tool within the bottle, I was able to bend the wire against the inside back of the bottle into positions it could not have held while being inserted through the neck of the bottle. Little tiny bights of clay are removed one greasy little chunk at a time. Finally at the end of the days work I put in a piece of the Kraken to see what it would look like in there. I think I am finally ready to start actually putting things into the bottle.

Andy, Mennonites eh?
 
John, thanks.
 
Greg, Thank you.
 
Here is a couple of shots of the crude thickness sander, I like the fact that I can use the cross slide to index for fine cuts.
 

 
The raised block in the centre had the original purpose of making the fence taller, serendipitously it also acts as a finger stop.
 

 
And a bit of planking on the cabin, all is just resting the rebates are false and glued.
 

 

 
Time for a break, its been a long day.
 
Michael

I made the capstan, in the images it does not sit flush with the deck because I have not decided on an exact position yet also the capstan bars in the second picture are temporary mockups so I could see how much space the capstan would need.


 
Lextin.