donrobinson

Good Morning All, Thanks to everyone for stopping in, for your likes and comments. This a new one for me, two updates in a week, but without my vehicle(another story) shipyard time has increased. I have completed the back rails which I will show in my next post as they aren't attached yet and will complete the breast hooks today as Mike is on edge waiting to see them. For now I have nailed the companion way and made some cleats from rosewood.
 

Here I am showing how I mask it to try and get a relatively straight line.
 

Here are a couple of shots showing holes drilled and nails in place. I used .4 mm nylon fishing line. First side I cut these off using flush cutters then sanded smooth, this side I used a sharp blade to cut off then sanded. The blade worked much better and very little sanding was required, just enough to remove excess glue. Should be noted the companion way had several coats of poly on it to prevent any stains from the ca glue.
 

 Here are the results, I think the .4 mm fishing line is the right scale and looks good. With a little more practice I may do a deck someday. I also found some light brown .3 mm fishing line that I may do a test section on my Pegasus with. 
 

Here I'm just showing the steps of making cleats. As you can see they are fairly large about 10 mm so they were fairly easy to make, that's one of the beauties of working at this scale.  The first one is after rough shaping on the Byrnes disc sander and the middle one is after some fine tuning with riffler file the cleat on the right is the kit supplied one. I would not normally spend twenty minutes making a cleat but I only need two so I thought what the heck. As you can see I have two extra ones that I am willing to offer to members here before I list them on ebay 
 

Here I'm rough shaping it on the disc sander.The thing off to the right in the picture is a crepe block used to clean the sanding disc, this helps prolong the life of your disc or belt if you have a thickness sander. You can get these at Lee Valley they are cheap and last forever.
 Thanks once more for stopping in and have a good one.
 

Hhahahahahaha Mike, You got me laughing on that one. I may need to have a cocktail(drink) to calm down. Good news about the shop, now to get it set up and back to some hobbies!

Thanks Lawrence, great of you to stop by

Ian and Pierre, Thanks for your comments very much appreciated

hey Ken,  Thanks for stopping in. I use the Sherline lathe, and in this case just rasps, files and sandpaper to do the shaping 

That light looks real sweet, nice work E.J.

Not sure what you are talking about  

That's alright E.J. being crazy has some good benefits too no one will drink your drink, eat off your plate..........and speaking of drink I don't see that beautiful cabinet in this shipyard yet  

Looks like she is fitting together pretty good. I am not sure what kits Sergal makes but is this your first one of theirs?

I believe you may want to re-think your positioning of piece 17. I looks to me it needs to be that high to support your strakes during the  planking process. The pieces on each side of the keel are to be cut off after planking is complete, this is how it looks in the plans. The part that is going to be forming the deck, which looks as though it has a rise to it,  also will need some trimming to make it flush. Doing it your way will result in excessive fairing at the bow being required and the need for extensions on either side of the keel also some shimming at deck level to make it flush. I am not sure where 10A goes but it may have been that size to help with the rise of the deck. As I mentioned before it appears by looking at the bow the deck there is going to be quite a bit higher than the rest of the deck. Just my observations, I could be wrong.

Sign me up for a book also

Nice work, the painting looks good. I found that paint brushes are not the place to cheap out on, a good brush does make a big difference. Looking forward to more updates

Looks great Bob. Was your Kingfisher built in the same manner, upside down building jig, or was it upright? I am only asking, and I know it is early in the build, what your preference would be, if they were different?

And she starts, well planned step by step procedure. I wish I could be that organised. Looking good Bob

To help make stealers look better, try not to use a triangular piece but a four sided(minimum)piece or even a hook or a scarf joint. Make it longer than necessary by cutting into the top and bottom strakes thus moving the end of the stealer forward towards the bow. Doing this will still leave a nice fit at the stem and the site of the joint won't be easily seen. It is a good rule of thumb to try and not use planks with points, although, there are exceptions to this also. What I have done is to measure the length of the stealer I want, cut it, shape it then lay it in place tracing the outline onto the planks it is laying on then trim them accordingly. With sharp knives and chisels(which you have) you cam make a stealer look quite attractive.

Although there is nothing wrong with stealers, to avoid them you may have to do some spiling and/or some creative edge bending. Spiling is a little more work but does leave a nice finish, and you will need some wider stock

Sign me up for a book also

What a Treasure!!!!!

Great looking model! I believe 1-2" clearance on all sides is the norm

Everything looks great. Good clean work

You could try going to a place that sells trophies, not sure how small they can go but might be worth a try.
 
And Mike you are spoilt ..................I love it!!!

That is a good technique. what type of bit do you use?

What a Treasure!!!!!

You could try going to a place that sells trophies, not sure how small they can go but might be worth a try.
 
And Mike you are spoilt ..................I love it!!!

Looks great Bob. Was your Kingfisher built in the same manner, upside down building jig, or was it upright? I am only asking, and I know it is early in the build, what your preference would be, if they were different?