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Tigersteve

18th Century Longboat by Tigersteve - FINISHED - Model Shipways

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This is my first build. Since there are many great logs on this model, I will provide brief progress updates. Due to a "tree nailing" mishap I started over with replacement parts from Model Expo. Btw- it's no more fun to plank this a second time around!

 

I have the English Pinnace waiting on the side. I intend to display both models together if I'm pleased with the results. We will see.

Steve

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I appreciate the kind words and all the likes. I think I forgot to mention that this build started in June! I am trying not to rush it but am also anxious to finish it up. I have to stop planning the next builds! Although I already have Chuck's Mayflower in mind for the third build. Off to more sanding. Pray nothing breaks! Steve

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Thanks everyone for the likes! Yes- sanding is fantastic and I have a feeling the key to a good finish. A bit more sanding to go on the outside of the cap rail then off to the freezes and other outer moulding. I'm going to see if I can prep the freezes, cut them out and fit on the moulding before I stain and poly.

 

Option 1: stain and poly before applying the moulding. Option 2: use the freeze to fit the moulding before stain and poly. We shall see... anxious to get this boat stained and poly applied. I like BobFs extra strip under the moulding. I may attempt that one too.

Steve

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Don't thank me, it's a tip from our own Chuck.

Did you download the new freezes from the locked instructions of Chuck's. Turned out that many provided in the kits were to small.

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Thank you, everyone. Yes I did read about the hairspray trick. Did some research though and was also prepared to purchase proper fixative because there's some debate on the long term effects of hairspray. I'm giving Minwax Polycrylic clear satin a try since I have it. Yes- I have many freezes now. Applied two coats. Gives a bit of a sheen but it looks protected.

Steve

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Ok fellow builders- one coat of pre-stain and then one coat of natural stain. Cut out the freezes. What a pain! I will apply these after I apply WOP. I think I will paint the cap rail after the WOP is applied and freezes are on along w the moulding strip that needs to be applied.

 

Special thanks to the stain for highlighting the imperfections!

Steve

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Nirvana- I'm enjoying it a lot more now that the planking is done. It's an extremely challenging kit!

 

Gunther- I think it does add character. Originally I selected all similar colored planks but as I started to break the planks when bending, the wood became more varied. I'm still pretty happy with it. It's smoother than it looks. Sanded with 220 then 320 then 400 sandpaper.

 

Thank you both for the kind words. It is much appreciated! 

Steve

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Applied the freezes and moulding strip below. I advise that you apply the moulding strips first as it was tricky to keep the freezes pristine. I applied one coat natural stain to the moulding the night before. I left the transom freeze off. I thought the model looked better without. At least I think mine does. Painting the cap rail is next.

Steve

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Wanted to give a quick update. I've been painting the cap rail and inside Tamiya flat red. The photo shows three coats. It's not as clean as I want yet so there's more sanding and paint ahead. I'm not thrilled with the brushes I am using so I will get some new ones before the next project. It's a tricky area to paint!

Steve

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Thanks for all the likes everyone. As most of you, I have ridiculously high standards for my work. That being said I really want to try to figure out a way to sand the inside planks where it's painted red to get a better finish. I'm just not sure if it's worth the effort. Especially when it might not be noticed after all the other inboard details are done. What do you guys think?

Steve

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Floorboards and simulated nails are just about done. I need to erase the guiding pencil lines tomorrow. I used a fine tip black pen for the nails. Loved Bob Fs method of using black paint brush bristles but that method would have surely stressed me out. I'm pretty satisfied with the results.

Steve

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Chuck, thank you for saying so and thank you everyone for the likes. I appreciate the encouragement. This is a very challenging kit. I like how Model Expo advertises it as an intro for ship modeling. Suppose it's partially because of the excellent practicum. Anyways-I didn't expect it to be easy. Great kit, Chuck! I have your Pinnace and Mayflower next in line.

Steve

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Just a quick update. I'm on attempt three at making the platforms. Notching them out kept splitting the wood. I was able to make the front platform and notch it out but when it was mounted the planks were not straight. So frustrated!

 

I will add some glue inbetween the planks this time and hope it will keep the notched areas from splitting.

Steve

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I don't know if this would work with your kit model but I built the bow platform and the stern sheet platform for a longboat that I am building by first fitting a piece of very thin model builders plywood That is available as thin as 1/64 in (approximately 1/2 mm). I then glued the boxwood planking to the plywood.

 

Roger

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