donrobinson

Hello all, Thanks for stopping in for a look, for all the likes and the awesome comments. Today(yesterday now) I took a day off building the Trabaccolo(sort of) and took some time to use a few of the tools I had to have but some have never used. So I built a ships wheel, yes I know the Trabaccolo has a tiller but she was a ship of trade and on one of her journeys she picked this one up, hope you enjoy:\
 
First up is the handles, actually this wasn't the first up but at the time when I started I did not think I would be showing any of this. So this is 3 mm walnut dowel, from MarisStella, the knob part is 6mm long for a total length from end to end of 12 mm and just turned on my rotary tool. I used some rifler files to do the shaping.
 

 
 These next couple of pictures are showing the handles in place,this is where I missed taking pictures. I started with a dowel, trued it up on the lathe then mounted the chuck on the rotary table(also mounted to a tilting table) that is attached to the mill. I drilled the 8 edge holes at 1.5 mm using a end mill bit, then laid the table assembly to the horizontal position.  I made the centre hole using a 3 mm end mill bit then moved it over to within 2mm of the outside edge and cut a 3 mm wide groove(rabbit).
 


 
 As you can see the wood was really breaking apart, this was just a piece of an old broom handle, so everything got a coat of thin ca. After glue was dry it was put back on lathe and separated(again no pictures) using the parting tool. Doing it this way solves the problem of getting the hub centred as it is still one piece
 

 
These next two pictures are just turning down some brass for the centre hub (not rocket science but first time for me  ) the piece is about .5 mm thick and 8mm in diameter, I think it could have been  a little smaller but I was trying to cover up the wooden hub.
 

 
And here is the result of my "fun day", it measures 31.5 mm from knob end to knob end. Still needs a light sanding and some wipe on poly, it should look real good in the cargo hold as it only has eight handles instead of the proper ten   .
 

 
 The next "fun day" may see a stand and drum for it

Hello all, Thanks for stopping in for a look, for all the likes and the awesome comments. Today(yesterday now) I took a day off building the Trabaccolo(sort of) and took some time to use a few of the tools I had to have but some have never used. So I built a ships wheel, yes I know the Trabaccolo has a tiller but she was a ship of trade and on one of her journeys she picked this one up, hope you enjoy:\
 
First up is the handles, actually this wasn't the first up but at the time when I started I did not think I would be showing any of this. So this is 3 mm walnut dowel, from MarisStella, the knob part is 6mm long for a total length from end to end of 12 mm and just turned on my rotary tool. I used some rifler files to do the shaping.
 

 
 These next couple of pictures are showing the handles in place,this is where I missed taking pictures. I started with a dowel, trued it up on the lathe then mounted the chuck on the rotary table(also mounted to a tilting table) that is attached to the mill. I drilled the 8 edge holes at 1.5 mm using a end mill bit, then laid the table assembly to the horizontal position.  I made the centre hole using a 3 mm end mill bit then moved it over to within 2mm of the outside edge and cut a 3 mm wide groove(rabbit).
 


 
 As you can see the wood was really breaking apart, this was just a piece of an old broom handle, so everything got a coat of thin ca. After glue was dry it was put back on lathe and separated(again no pictures) using the parting tool. Doing it this way solves the problem of getting the hub centred as it is still one piece
 

 
These next two pictures are just turning down some brass for the centre hub (not rocket science but first time for me  ) the piece is about .5 mm thick and 8mm in diameter, I think it could have been  a little smaller but I was trying to cover up the wooden hub.
 

 
And here is the result of my "fun day", it measures 31.5 mm from knob end to knob end. Still needs a light sanding and some wipe on poly, it should look real good in the cargo hold as it only has eight handles instead of the proper ten   .
 

 
 The next "fun day" may see a stand and drum for it

Out in garage, cutting some spare hatch covers. I had a thought of maybe painting the hatch covers so I thought making some practice ones would be a good idea.

 
Covers and hatch got a total of six coats of spray on satin varathane


 
To attach the rope handles to the hatch covers I decided to use zip siezings. The rope I am using for the handles is .025 in. or .633 mm from Syren. The zip siezings are 1.3 mm i.d. and 1.77 mm o.d. and approx. 1.5 mm long

 
First step is to thread two siezings onto the line, after stiffening the end of the line with ca then cutting the end at an angle

 
Then run rope through the bottom and back down from the top. Then insert the end of the line though the two siezings

 
Flatten one side of an appropriate size of dowel to the proper height, in this case 3 mm, and adjust the rope around it.

 
When adjusted properly turn it over, glue and cut the ends off. In the macro picture it looks kind of bulky but in reality it looks good.

 
Finally here is how they look. Now 19 more to go

 
Have a Good Night

Looks good E.J. Your mouse turned out real good, I have always wondered with a mouse is there a rule as to where it should be positioned on the stay in relation to the mast. I never know where I should position these things.

That is amazing work Merchen, absolutely beautiful. You are a very gifted artist 

Looks good E.J. Your mouse turned out real good, I have always wondered with a mouse is there a rule as to where it should be positioned on the stay in relation to the mast. I never know where I should position these things.

Looks good E.J. Your mouse turned out real good, I have always wondered with a mouse is there a rule as to where it should be positioned on the stay in relation to the mast. I never know where I should position these things.

That is amazing work Merchen, absolutely beautiful. You are a very gifted artist 

Looks good E.J. Your mouse turned out real good, I have always wondered with a mouse is there a rule as to where it should be positioned on the stay in relation to the mast. I never know where I should position these things.

Out in garage, cutting some spare hatch covers. I had a thought of maybe painting the hatch covers so I thought making some practice ones would be a good idea.

 
Covers and hatch got a total of six coats of spray on satin varathane


 
To attach the rope handles to the hatch covers I decided to use zip siezings. The rope I am using for the handles is .025 in. or .633 mm from Syren. The zip siezings are 1.3 mm i.d. and 1.77 mm o.d. and approx. 1.5 mm long

 
First step is to thread two siezings onto the line, after stiffening the end of the line with ca then cutting the end at an angle

 
Then run rope through the bottom and back down from the top. Then insert the end of the line though the two siezings

 
Flatten one side of an appropriate size of dowel to the proper height, in this case 3 mm, and adjust the rope around it.

 
When adjusted properly turn it over, glue and cut the ends off. In the macro picture it looks kind of bulky but in reality it looks good.

 
Finally here is how they look. Now 19 more to go

 
Have a Good Night

Good evening folks, did a little work on the stowage hatch and thought I'd show some pictures.
 
This one is showing the location marked out and ready to cut

 
Here the hatch has been cut out using a rotary tool and a 1 mm end mill bit( a little shaky on the cut, should have had a beer maybe )

 
The hatch has been trimmed up and sanded using a sanding block\

 
The hatch has been built and am cleaning up the covers

 
This how it looks installed

 
I did not take any pictures of the construction of the hatch. It is basically two boxes built around each other. The only minor problem was when I was sanding the two inside end panels. I was using the disc sander sanding both pieces at once and did not realise one had moved forward, so I sanded that end flush, turned it end for end and sanded flush again. Although all ends were very smooth and even the pieces were now 3 mm too short.    
 So after singing a beautiful happy song it was out to the garage to make two new ones  

 
Here I am packed up and ready to go to garage to spray some varathane

Thanks you all for your visits and comments it is really appreciated
 
Well it's been a long time since my last update. After many hours on pondering as how to approach the deck planking I decided to go with Zoran's(MarisStella) approach. The biggest reason being is that there is a central 17 mm wide plank that goes down the middle it would cover up any mast holes, pawl holes and one of the hatch holes. So I decided to plank the deck first and do the cutting out later. Planking went real good, I changed it a little by putting walnut at the bow and stern a blood wood plank then the cherry planks. I went with a four plank rotation, a big thanks goes to Ulises Victoria for his great tutorial on how to plank a deck http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Deck_PlankingIIbuttshifts.pdf.
 It was a lot of work and many hours but it is finally finished, scraped and sanded. She is approximately 175 mm x 520 mm at the largest points and took about 220 planks to cover it. Next I will cut out the main hatch then install the central strip followed by the remaining holes required.
I am really looking forward when all forms of planking are done  
 
Enjoy the pics
Take Care
 

Out in garage, cutting some spare hatch covers. I had a thought of maybe painting the hatch covers so I thought making some practice ones would be a good idea.

 
Covers and hatch got a total of six coats of spray on satin varathane


 
To attach the rope handles to the hatch covers I decided to use zip siezings. The rope I am using for the handles is .025 in. or .633 mm from Syren. The zip siezings are 1.3 mm i.d. and 1.77 mm o.d. and approx. 1.5 mm long

 
First step is to thread two siezings onto the line, after stiffening the end of the line with ca then cutting the end at an angle

 
Then run rope through the bottom and back down from the top. Then insert the end of the line though the two siezings

 
Flatten one side of an appropriate size of dowel to the proper height, in this case 3 mm, and adjust the rope around it.

 
When adjusted properly turn it over, glue and cut the ends off. In the macro picture it looks kind of bulky but in reality it looks good.

 
Finally here is how they look. Now 19 more to go

 
Have a Good Night

The boats look real good, the stairs are going to look great installed. Nice work

Hey Bob probably is the same song, consists of one word sung many times does this sound familiar

Thanks E.J., I think I prefer the rope handles to the normal eyebolt and ring ones

terrible planking, if it is just the first planking a person could maybe live with it. If it is the one and only layer of planking then "Houston we have a problem"

Thanks Elijah, good of you to stop in

Thanks HD, that stands for Holiday Dave, I mean....really....holidays again        

Hi Mike they really are the way to go. Using a saw and with the up and down motion would have ripped the thin planking(.5 mm) making a mess. These bits are cheap to buy less than a $1.00 each and they stay sharp a long time when cutting wood. Only seven more holes to go!!!!

Good to see you drop by Ian, help yourself to any of the ideas my bulb does not shine bright very often  

Hello Mike, good excuse to have a cool one..... right?

Thanks for dropping in Skipper, I remember now when that happened to you. Gives a person a warm feeling all over or should I say a hot a very very hot feeling    

Hey Bob probably is the same song, consists of one word sung many times does this sound familiar

Thanks E.J., I think I prefer the rope handles to the normal eyebolt and ring ones