ioannis

Im  surpised  when i saw  your first steps it looked like a turtle shell ,but on your next photoes ,soon after sanding it looks beautiful 
Im impressed about your building method . 
 

Im pulling a chair closer you
Look forward to your next update

Thanks Niels.
By the way i have  just red about the dramatic  end the ship had and how.... Rather than let the enemy capture  they ordered the ship to be scuttled using dynamite..

Amazing.amazing.amazing

Im  surpised  when i saw  your first steps it looked like a turtle shell ,but on your next photoes ,soon after sanding it looks beautiful 
Im impressed about your building method . 
 

Im pulling a chair closer you
Look forward to your next update

Well done so far.And surgeons like this do surgery
Have a look on this special minidrill

In the next construction forbid the content for us and keep the bottle

Interesting, next plz!

Another microbuilder here.
Welldone igor.

Hi everyone
 
Many thanks for all of your comments and Likes.
 
Well, after much deliberation, I've decided to go ahead with the canopy, using the cardboard mockup as a template.  I've also seen numerous photos of the real ship underway with full sails, with the canopy up; so that was part of my decision to continue with it.  Thanks for all of your input.  I hope I've made the right decision to go ahead with it!
 
Anyhow, here's the latest photos.
 
Thanks and all the best!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 
 
 

Hi everyone
 
Thanks for all of your comments and Likes - greatly appreciated!
 
Symphony has a large white collapsible canopy over the main cockpit area to give protection from the weather.  As I was curious to see what it'd look like, I did a very rough cardboard mockup of it.  To my mind, it looks a bit funny, but oh well, if the real boat has it, I might as well try to replicate it on my model.  
 
Also, if you look carefully, you may be able to see that I've planked the bow and stern areas of the deck, thereby leaving the remaining areas of the deck exposed for viewing purposes.
 
Anyhow, here're the latest photos.
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
 
Patrick
 
 

I've gotten to the stage I'd like to apply a coat of sanding sealer to the model. But I'll be darned if I want to pluck down 17 bucks for a 1qt can of commercial grade of "Sanding Sealer and use only an oz.. I hear tell one can make your own using talcum powder . I'd like to try that but use some of the cans show above. Can anyone here tell me the right proportions ?  And just how good is this home made solution ?
 
 Thanks.
 
Shown in the images s my lay out for cutting the gun ports. I established their location from the plans and the station marks on the model. I drilled through from the inside of the hull at the center of the proposed cut. I used a thin metal template with a hole drilled through then mounted on the hull in the exact location secured with the pin as shown. Now I can mark with an Xacto knife for the start of the cut. After the initial cut I'm thinking of plunging right into the center with a carbide burr then trim out to the xacto knofe of a small saw made from an old Xacto fine saw blade.
 
Thanks to those who peek in here.
 
SOS

Hi SOS
 
I agree with you about models needing the 'love' factor, and I can definitely see the love you've poured into your ship. She's coming along beautifully!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part  7 – Lower Stern
 
In the framed version of the model, individual stern timbers provided the foundation for the planking of the stern.  On this POB version the complex shape of the stern was constructed from solid pine.  The upper section was shaped in the last part.
 
The foundation for the stern below the wale was shaped from a solid block like the upper stern piece.  The piece is curved in three planes. The horizontal curve of its upper face is defined by the lower edge of the upper stern piece – at about the line of the wale.  In the first picture that line is being traced on a wood block.
 

 
The piece was first marked with a centerline so it could be indexed to the stern assembly.  In the next picture vertical curves on either side are being marked from the shape of bulkhead 48.
 

 
With the lines drawn, the lower shape of the piece was cut on the scroll saw.
 

 
The pieces removed were then taped back on using transparent tape so the curved line of the horizontal face could be cut as shown in the next picture.
 

 
These cuts could be made in either order.  The piece was then glued to the aft side of frame 48 and the upper piece. The frame 48 assembly was then glued to the hull as shown below.  The curve of the aft face was then roughed out down to the forward edge of the sternpost – indicated by the pencil line on the spine.
 

 
The pencil line shown was drawn using a template.  This end of the hull is now ready for fairing – or will be when the excess spine material is removed.  But first the bow will need to be constructed – in the next part.
 
On this version of the model, all of the filling material – spacers, spine and these filler blocks – are cut from ¾” thick pine.  This material is easy to obtain, can be ripped and cross cut on a 4” diameter model saw and on most scroll saws.  I used available scraps for this – some clear sugar (white) pine and some pine from a home center.  This latter material is actually a species called Radiata.  While a form of pine and clear of knots, it has dark hard growth rings that can be seen in the spacers in the above picture.  The contrast with the clear sugar pine of the lower spine is evident.  In retrospect, I would avoid this species.  The hard growth rings made some work more difficult, specifically pinning and tacking to secure planking, but also some shaping.
 
 
Ed

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 6 – Upper Stern
 
After erecting all the “square frame” bulkheads, a foundation for the circular stern was fashioned from blocks of ¾” pine – one for the area above the wale and one for the lower section.  First the upper piece.  The first picture shows a piece of ¾” pine stock with a pattern for the top pasted on.
 

 
The pattern for the underside of this piece as well as the pattern for bulkhead 48 showing the positioning of the blocks is shown.  The circular (really elliptical) pattern line on the top of the block is the line of the fancy rail at the top of the framing.  It is also the line of the main rail.  The hull is vertical between these two lines at the stern.  The curve of the lower side of this block – shown on the cut out bottom pattern – is roughly at the line of the wale.
 
In the next picture both patterns have been aligned and attached and the line at the top is being cut on the scroll saw.
 

 
Note that a hole for the helm port was bored through this piece.  The key hole shape of this was cut out once the curve was cut.  In the next picture the piece is held at its proper position on the aft side of bulkhead 48 and the curve of the deck at that point is being marked.
 

 
Do to the shear of the decks, the top of the piece will be higher at the very stern.  The top of the piece is next pared off to yield the correct shear and round up to provide the surface for deck planking.  In the next picture this has been done and the line of the main rail is being marked out.
 

 
The underside of the main rail is about 18” below the fancy rail line to allow two strakes of 6” plank and the 6” main rail to fill the space above the line.  The area below this line is then cut back at an angle to the line on the underside pattern as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Most of the wood removal was done on the disk sander, then refined using the rasp shown.  In the next picture the piece has been glued to bulkhead 48 – after removal of part of the bulkhead pattern.
 

 
Note that the stern piece is slightly smaller than the bulkhead.  This is due to the curvature of the hull.  The forward face of the bulkhead is on station 48.  The aft edge will be faired back to its smaller line.  The other block in this picture – marked with a center line - will be the lower stern piece.  Next time.
 
Ed

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 5 – Mast Steps
 
As bulkheads and spacers are added, it is necessary to make provision for supporting the lower ends of the masts.  On the framed model these steps are fully detailed and visible through the view ports, but on this version they need only be simple, functional and strong.  The first picture shows the step of the main mast just aft of bulkhead 12 – looking forward.
 

 
The brass pin will fit a hole in the bottom of the mast.  The bulkhead has been cut out to provide clearance for the mast.  A reinforcing spacer can just be seen through the opening.  For strength, the plywood bulkheads on either side of each mast are  sandwiched between such reinforcements.  The next picture shows the reinforcing spacer glued to the plywood bulkhead aft of the foremast.
 

 
The step of the mizzen mast is shown below before being installed.
 

 
The holes for the brass pins need to be precisely located, hence the dividers.  The drawings show these locations at the height of the spacer blocks.  The pins are slightly raked – roughly matching the mast rake.
 
The next picture shows the bulkhead forward of the one above, with the reinforcing spacer in place.
 

 
The next picture shows the hull framing well advanced.  The squares clamped to the shipway are important.  They keep the hull plumbed to prevent twisting as new bulkheads are added.
 

 
The last picture shows the hull framed back to bulkhead 42.  At the ends, the central spine needs to be built up with additional tiers to form the deadwood as the hull narrows.
 

 
Also, in this picture, additional spacers have been inserted inside the outer ones to maintain a solid hull surface where the lines converge sharply at the stern.
 
The complex rounded stern will be constructed in the next part.
 
Ed

Doris, that collection of models is simply amazing . Are you sure there is only ONE of you? That looks like the lifetime work of a few dozen builders .
 
Your work makes mine seem amateurish in comparison. Well done!!
 
 Danny

Dear friends,
thank you very much for your kind words, I am pleased and appreciate your posts a lot. That is a great honour for me.
 
 
 
Dear Danny and Mark,
in this room there are about 30 ship models and more than 60 cars (mainly plastic models in a scale 1/24). The oldest ships I built about 20 years ago.
Many of these older models were quite easy, so there was not a problem to build several ships during every year. Now I prefer to create mainly large sailing ships (scratch build), so it takes me thousands of hours (for example Sovereign of the seas about 6000 hours and Royal Caroline almost 7000). Now I have only one problem - there is no spare space for more....
And the collection of bottles with alcohol - this is my husband's hobby ( but he does not drink it, only collects).....
 
 
 
 
Dear Vivian, thank you for your support and kind words. I am sure, I will continue with other projects and show it also here. Now I need to relax a little, so I spend some time to assemble plastic models.
For example La Reale by Heller:

http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=95541&start=30
Unfortunately this is a poor-quality kit ( I purchase the older one), so there are many troubles with fragile or damaged parts and in addition, the model parts are very inaccurate.
 
Next time I will rather choose Tamiya kits....
 
Best regards
Doris

"Brass cappea" on place, above windlass structure ( windlass pump) painted, color corrections done, and fore deck finished.
 
For now. I hope to remember to check all deck colors before rigging
 

 
Time to move to aft deck, but first I have to play/analyze with Corel/AI all points and to prepare working drawings
 
Just thinking... all deck houses are similar and have same/similar ornaments. Maybe it is good idea to make ali of them together, to be sure to get the same shade of color . Considering I do my paint jobs mixing acrylic, I am not sure I can hit same color and shade couple of months later

Nicely done on Her Majesty, Nenad.  I'm happy you and kids have each other and the road trips are good.

Hi there
 
I finished fairing the moulds & have done a few planks. The intention is to first do a band of planks from the top edge of the transom down, to help stabilise the whole thing. There are some planks above this line due to the raised deck design, . When there's what seems to be a stable band of planks I'll probably start planking back up from the garboard.
 
They are going on well, I've been using toothpicks at the stem & transom to help hold the planks in position - they will want to pull away under the tension on the planks, but the glue gets slippery & it would be a bummer if a plank slipped & set in the wrong place. The toothpicks act as pegs & hold the planks in place while the glue goes off. 
 
An interesting scale comparison is a new casting for our boom.
 
hanks
 
 

 

 

 

 

The garboard plank is on, & I can now set out the rest of the planking. To set out the garboard I used the example of the 24' Ranger garboard plank, which goes forward about as far as the forefoot.
 

 
The reference

 

 
The notches are to take ribs, the rib spacing won't be to scale, my estimate of enough to help hold the hull together.

 

 

nicely done Patrick!  looking forward in seeing the outside of symphony as finely detailed as the inside    

Hi everyone
 
A milestone has been reached!   The deck has finally been glued down, which means that the interior is well and truly completed.  
 
So, the photos below show the hull with the deck glued down.  I've also done a little bit more work on the skylights and assorted deck furniture, as well as the bowsprit.  The cardboard templates on the deck will eventually be used to represent the partially planked deck planks.
 
Still heaps of work to go, but fun, nonetheless!
 
All the best
 
Patrick

Because I liked the perfection that deal with content beyond many times working 24 hours in order to finish what is started.
The clock is ticking and i must continue to the next construction ,,,not only ships,,but varius other,,,,