CDW

The engine cylinders were as much a puzzle as they were a model kit. In the end, it looks great.

Building this kit up will probably be a once in a lifetime affair for me as it's not practical to envision doing another of the same kit. Because of this I want to add upgraded parts where it seems they provide a significant level of detail to help the finished model look like the real thing. It gets pricey though. Here is what I intend to add to the engine assembly at this time: Nickel plated acorn nuts for the cam covers: Nuts - Acorn - Nickel Plated Brass 1.0 mm - A007n – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com) Upgraded water pipes, hose, and hose clamps: Alfa Water Pipes - A024 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com) Distributor linkage kit: Distributor Linkage Kit - A005 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com) Spark plugs Spark Plugs - Z008 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com) ignition wire Ignition Wire - Z038 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com) Plug wire boots Boots - Z039 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com) In addition to the above parts, I may add some 3D printed resin parts as well depending on price and availability (waiting on word back from Paul Koo) All through the building of this kit, there are a large number of upgrade options to consider. All will require time and money to go that route but in some cases it seems worth it. I don't intend to rush to finish this kit, just going to do it one sub-assembly at a time.

I sure am glad that the former owner only started the engine and transmission. It is a mess to say the least. Connecting rods facing in wrong positions; cylinder sleeves upside down in several places; none of the parts were properly prepared before assembling. This is a rescue project in the pure sense of the word. Because of the glue, the crank shaft was cracked in several places where I had to separate the journals in order to release the connecting rods and place them facing in the correct direction. I carefully sanded, shaped and glued the broken pieces back together. I'm not too worried about the repaired pieces as all are internal and will not be seen once the engine is painted and reassembled. I have lots of cleanup and careful fitting to do before putting any of it back together.

When I received my kit, the previous owner had started the engine and transmission. The subassemblies and other loose parts were inside a sealed baggie. I’m going to start by disassembling what was started then looking to see what pieces may be damaged or missing. Will follow Paul Koi’s guide when reassembling and upgrade pieces where it seems worthwhile.

Those videos are addictive. Thanks for sharing the link. Informative.

Son and grandsons were catching sharks today. Baby bull sharks? Not sure.

On the top of each push rod is a large hex nut/cover. One at the rear side of the front cylinder looks like there is an oil line going to it. The kit does not provide this line but I can add it. Are these large hex covers for valve adjustment access? Yes, there is a lot of color variation to be added before it's finished. Don't want to add some of this until I get a little further along in the assembly of it all. There are also prominent hex nut/covers on the gear box (starboard) and primary cover (port). I imagine one is for gear oil but what about the one on the primary cover? I'm assuming the engine had a primary chain and cover like the Harley Davidson but I'm assuming.

Very nice!

Just now found your build log Denis. Looking forward to following along and learning something about trailers. You're the perfect teacher for this.

Cleaning up parts, painting, working on sub assemblies. The Black Shadow is mostly black. Imagine that. 🤣

Loads of detail there. Looks great.

Great information here. Thanks for the link.

That's an awesome model Mike!

As hot as it has been lately, Alan may be second-guessing his decision to move to Florida. Feels-like temperature will reach 110+ today according to the forecast. Humidity is terrible. Just like you, I have been wondering how Alan is doing and hope all is well.

So neat and tidy...beautiful craftsmanship Yves.

Very very nice model, she looks all business. She would have been a ground targets worst nightmare.

I visited the Smithsonian museum in 2016 but I don't recall seeing the Arado 234 on my visit. Maybe it was there and I just missed it. I was rather rushed through the visit because my wife, daughter, and granddaughter were with me and as one can imagine, their interest in aircraft didn't nearly match my own. One can spend several days in DC and never begin to make a detailed study of the sites to be seen there. The air and space portion needs at least a full day all on its own. What he was telling me about, in general, was how the canopy sections fit together and the black gasket material that was between the sections. There was more, but I just don't recall everything he said about it.

There was an elderly gentleman at the IPMS show I attended earlier in the year who told me some facts concerning the Arado 234 that is part of the Smithsonian Museum in Washington DC. He said he had worked there helping to restore that particular aircraft. I wish I had written down everything he told me as he was explaining facts about how the canopy parts fit together but I could not follow without a clear visual image of what he was talking about. Maybe one day I will run into him again and have him tell me about it one more time. This time I will take notes. He had donated a 1:48 Hasegawa Arado 234 and detail sets which I won in a raffle held at the show. Maybe one day I'll get around to building the 1:48 version. Your model looks great at this stage. Keep up the beautiful work.

Pontos only provides photos of the model with the photo etch attached. Sounds a lot like Mk-1 in that sense. Indeed, you are correct, reference materials are needed.

Great to see/hear from you, Lou. I decided to give it a try after I saw an Asian modeler reveal his technique for it. Other methods had you building a jig and using a different type of flexible wire. While both methods had merit, the one I chose seemed the path of least resistance. The trick became sourcing the stainless-steel wire and aluminum tubing of sufficiently small gauge. I found that insect specimen pins came in a variety of small sizes from 5-0 all the way up and readily available on Amazon. The micro aluminum tubing I found from a hobby shop on Ebay.

Overall, I am satisfied with the way the rear wheel came out given it's a first try. Practice makes perfect and I've learned a few things giving this method a try. Will move on to other areas of construction and continue with the front wheel later.

Maybe try Mr Color metallics. Theirs are some of the most durable paints I have discovered. Super Silver has a very fine pigment and looks convincing.

The challenge of masking over metallic paint is always there. It's so frustrating to invest all the time and effort then see the paint underneath the mask deformed by the tape. I feel your pain.

Looks excellent with that wash.

Oh, it's way better than that. It's 4.19 per bottle (Tamiya thin cement) VS: 1.20 per bottle (when refilled using the Tamiya airbrush cleaner). It's less than 1/3 the cost.