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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. CDW
    With a few more pieces added, I am getting near finished with this model but there are a lot of small details and weathering I want to add before officially calling it finished. In the meanwhil. I have another project I want to start and will finish this one up in between sessions with the new project.
  2. CDW
    For me, even after all the years of doing it, it's never perfect. But being satisfied is 99.9% of the end result desired.
  3. CDW
    I really admire your work, Rob. I know how difficult it is to get a near-perfect natural metal finish like that. Beautiful. And I love that subject too, it's always been a favorite of mine the P-38.
  4. CDW
    Stretched clear sprue for the icicles and Vallejo gel. Don't want to get too carried away with icicles, just keep it to a minimum. I agree with what Rob said and want to go back to create a melting effect where the show is touching the exhaust port shrouds and partially on the engine deck. Will try the gel there (maybe).
  5. CDW
    For the snow I used Vallejo white pigment sprinkled over a wet watered-down coat of white paint.
  6. CDW
    Thanks Ken. I'm going to give Doc Rob's suggestion a try and attempt to create a few icicles here and there. Never tried it before but have wanted to. Now's the time.
  7. CDW
    Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.
  8. CDW
    With the tracks painted, the wheels and track are placed back on the model. I've used some scrap pieces of foam to bring the top part of the tracks down onto the road wheels and give it the natural appearance of sag seen on real tracked vehicles. With this being said, it finishes the saga on tracks and will now move forward with adding the remaining details and weathering the model.
  9. CDW
    That's a very fine model with an excellent selection for markings. The aluminum finish is brilliant.
  10. CDW
    The red arrow points to the mounting shaft for the idler wheel. This part can be rotated forward or back to add or release tension on the tracks. It's important to initially fit this part dry and only cement it into place after proper tension is put on the tracks after link assembly. The kit instructions do not point this out, it's just one of those things you learn through trial and error and/or careful thought and examination of the entire assembly.
  11. CDW
    With the straight sections of track glued in place and dried, the idler and drive wheel can be slid off to remove the entire track for painting. After painting, will slide everything back in place.
  12. CDW
    Glad I could help. It's a pain compared to rubber band tracks.
  13. CDW
    Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up. Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up. Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously. This is how it looks when it's all finished. It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
  14. CDW
    The instructions call for 72 track links per side but that’s obviously too short. Extra links are provided and will probably need three more additional to allow for some sag between road wheels at the top. Maybe two will do it.
  15. CDW
    Thanks Rob. I planned on snow but your idea of icicles is great. I had not thought of that.
  16. CDW
    We were shocked when he never tried to remove it. Thought he would for sure. Thanks Andrew. Can you even imagine how cold it must have been inside a tank during the winter in Russia? Your skin would probably stick to the steel if you touched it.
  17. CDW
    If you are an armor model builder, your best friend will be a circle template when it’s time to paint the wheels. A real pain without it.
  18. CDW
    Our pooch celebrated his first birthday yesterday. He’s a ball of energy.
  19. CDW
    Nothing but respect for tank crews. Tough duty right there.
  20. CDW
    Believe it or not, it had a crew of 4. Hard to believe. The good thing about it, farts freeze in mid-air in the winter months in that climate. 😄
  21. CDW
  22. CDW
    Thanks EG. Those are good resources to bookmark. Interesting what indyals says about the gold markings on the WR1
  23. CDW
    With the base paint of Russian green laid down, will next add fuel tanks, some other miscellaneous hardware and wheels/tracks before doing a winter scheme white wash and weathering.
  24. CDW
    I recently acquired the 1:12 Tamiya Wolf WR1 formula one model and there are issues with the gold decals. Haven’t found a replacement sheet. Thinking about masking and painting the metallic gold myself when the time comes rather than depending on the decal. Even when I bought replacement/aftermarket gold decal sheets in the past, the gold has not been opaque, causing the need for a proper base color underneath. Fred Cady decals come to mind. Printers have a hard time with opaque metallics it seems.
  25. CDW
    The SU-85 was based on the venerable T-34 chassis. It was built to combat the Tiger tank as the T-34 at that time was equipped with a 76mm gun that could not penetrate the Tiger armor at combat range (1000 yards). The 85mm gun, a modified anti-aircraft gun, was too big to fit inside the T-34 turret, thus the stop-gap measure that brought about the SU-85. Tight quarters, very tight. For any who might be interested, I highly recommend watching the Russian movie (with English subtitles) T-34. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the film and how it captivated my interest all the way to the end. Watch it. You will like it.

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