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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. CDW
    Thanks Alan.
  2. CDW
    The beginning of the dashboard and firewall construction. More details to come. Construction and finishing began with black primer-surfacer, then aluminum. The hammered aluminum panels are decals supplied in the kit as are the individual instruments dials. The red-brown object in the middle of the dashboard is the magneto. I presume the driver controlled the advance and retard of the ignition timing from this location.
  3. CDW
    Thanks Ken!
  4. CDW
    Thanks OC
  5. CDW
  6. CDW
    Thanks Rob. I’m having fun experimenting with this as well. It’s something I rarely ever attempt to do, showing age wear and grime.
  7. CDW
    It’s where I used an oil wash over the bare metal finish to show grease and grime accumulation.
  8. CDW
  9. CDW
    After painting the radiator core halves flat black, I masked them off with Heller Maskol then assembled the chrome radiator halves. I used a 12,000 grit polishing sponge to dull down the chrome before painting the chrome with a light coat of Mr Metal Color gold. Once dry, polished down the metalized gold so that some of the chrome shows through in an effort to make it appear to be old chrome plating that was worn away after many decades of time. That nasty seam at the top of the radiator gets covered with a photo etch piece later on.
  10. CDW
    Thanks Rob. I’m having a lot of fun with the model and like you, learning about the real car as I go along.
  11. CDW
    The body panels were made of aluminum. The lower body pan had a number of ejector pin marks that needed filling. For the first time, tried using Mr Disolved Putty. It goes down readily with a paint brush and is self leveling. After it dries is easy to sand. After allowing the putty to dry over night, sanded it down and primed the pan with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. Ready for aluminum paint then weathering. I should mention this car has no floorboard. The body pan is the floorboard. Weird to me but that’s the way it was/is.
  12. CDW
    Wow, what a great-looking model Yves. A very difficult build it looks to me.
  13. CDW
    Thanks for the input guys. Very interesting. If I stay true to the particular subject I'm modeling, the unrestored winner of the '29 Monaco GP, I would not do the safety wires at all as it didn't have them. Probably removed somewhere down through the years I guess. I need to think this over as I may regret adding it later.
  14. CDW
    The Model Factory Hiro kit comes with those details as parts of the assembly of the model. It's a small detail but I think it would make the model more interesting. Need to look for some very fine silver wire although I do have some fine copper wire.
  15. CDW
    Here is a reference photo of a restored Bugatti. I'm thinking about filing off the raised details then drilling and placing pins along the lines where the lower and upper body parts fasten together, then joining them together with wire as on the 1:1 car.
  16. CDW
    Thanks Scott. I was kinda worried about the chassis alignment, keeping it straight and true/not warped but as it turns out, Italeri engineered the kit to self-align with the fit of the engine block and body pan. There are some small screws in strategic locations that keeps everything on the straight and narrow. Seems as though Italeri took their game to a higher level with this kit. Besides that, I doubt that any other kit maker will offer a Bugatti Type 35 at this scale and at this price point. I think I paid around $150 for it through Amazon. The epic MFH version of it fetches around $800 or more. If somebody like Tamiya did one, my guess is it would sell for something north of $300. Craig
  17. CDW
    Body to chassis dry fit looks okay to move forward.
  18. CDW
    Guess what new kit comes out this month (it's already released for sale in Germany)? I have one on backorder at Hannants.
  19. CDW
    Thanks for the kind comments gentlemen. Exhaust manifolds painted red-brown then dusted with pigment powders.
  20. CDW
    Need to add ignition wires, magneto, and radiator hoses then the engine construction will be complete. All will get a coat of dull lacquer to seal and unify the colors.
  21. CDW
    Moving forward with construction and weathering of the engine. More to do. Taking it slow and easy.
  22. CDW
    Began construction and painting of the 2,263cc, overhead camshaft, 3 valves per cylinder, supercharged, 8-cylinder inline engine. The basic engine colors used were AK Xtreme Metal white aluminum, and Mr Color iron. Various other colors and parts will be added along with a thorough weathering of the engine in later phases. I thought I had thrown it out, but I somehow managed to pick up and use a defective roll of Tamiya tape I had discovered in a previous build. This particular roll of tape leaves a pesky residue after it is removed. Fortunately, it can be removed (the residue) with IPA and a cotton swab. From the photos, I can see there is still some of it residing on the engine block which I will need to remove after making this post. Photos have a way of bringing out imperfections easily missed with the naked eye.
  23. CDW
    My mother was born a Caruthers. Her mother was a Polk. Both our Polk and Caruthers families have frequent gatherings, we call them reunions, where all the cousins come together to share dinner together, great conversation, and just keeping up with how we are doing. It helps that most of us still live in or near Florida. I must say that I often doubt whether the younger generations will continue our traditions. I hope they will. We have taught our children to do this.
  24. CDW
    Wow, what an ordeal. You have a ton of patience to see this through and it's paying dividends. Looks great, Chris.
  25. CDW
    I used oils, pigment powders, and acrylic paint to add chipping, oil and grime to the chassis. The oil color is "industrial grime earth".

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