figuerres

Chuck:  what about sanding string to pull thru some places ??

http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Sanding_and_Polishing/Sandpaper_and_Finishing_Papers/Mitchell_Abrasive_Cord.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2017-01-gp&gclid=Cj0KEQiAnb3DBRCX2ZnSnMyO9dIBEiQAOcXYH6UtAhN31QSxhukgIw3gNpIzoga6kA2-QQd2JNWw1wMaAjZX8P8HAQ

Welcome back!  I'm glad to see another Model Shipways Bluenose log come back to life!  I've been going through some withdrawal since Jerry finished his.

 

I noticed you're also building the Fair American, and you have the 18th Century Longboat in the wings.  I promise I didn't intentionally copy you, but I'm about halfway done with my Bluenose, I've got the Fair American kit on the shelf, and I received the 18th Century Longboat kit for Christmas.  So, I'll be pretty glued to your build logs for while!

not a problem!

Hello Folks,  I am back .... been quite a while, chnaging jobs, buying a house and moving, i think in a few weeks i will finally be back on track with my ship making !!!

Hello Folks,  I am back .... been quite a while, chnaging jobs, buying a house and moving, i think in a few weeks i will finally be back on track with my ship making !!!

Hi Everyone,

                    like the OP, I'm a novice building the Jolly Boat of HMS Bounty and while I don't have a concrete problem there is something in the instructions that puzzles me and I'm hoping one of the experts here can clarify something for me.

 

As an ex IT person I have a habit before I start anything of studying the instructions (manual) carefully to ensure I have everything to hand so to speak and have an idea of what I'm going to need to do. 

 

My problem? well in the parts listing,  in each section you have 7 different languages, I speak three of them and can get by in another two, the columns in the listing are :- Ref, Description,  Quantity, Size, Material, the languages are Spanish, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese and Dutch 

 

The problem? well in Ref 15 the first four languages have under Quantity  4 pieces whereas the final three languages have quantity 1, in Ref 16 the first four have quantity 2 whereas the last three have quantity 1, in Ref 17 the first four quantity 6, the last three quantity 1, in Ref 19 first four quantity 2 pieces the last three quantity 1.

 

I was going to stop at Ref 19 but further reading shows discrepancies Ref 61 where the situation ifs reversed i.e the first 4 languages have quantity 1 whereas the last 3 have quantity 2, in Ref 69 we come back to first four having quantity 4 and the last three have quantity 2 and so it goes, suffice to say apart from the above mentioned Ref's with discrepancies the same situation is found in Ref's 70, 72,79, 80,81,82,83,85,86,88,89.

 

For the life of me I cannot imagine why Italian, Portuguese and Dutch have either less pieces or more pieces in different sections I also noted that the Material for these languages is frequently Manzonia,  the others are African Walnut.

 

I'd really appreciate it if someone could please cast any light on this issue, even if it is to tell me I'm over analysing the situation :-) 

 

My apologies if the custom on this site is to always start new threads rather than bumping old ones 

LOL, a *LOT* of documentation for kit models and many other things - like some computer stuff gets really bad docs.

they hire out the transaltions and they will often have many small errors depending on what the first language was and how it is re-translated by different people who may not be really qualified to do that job.

if you really want to get it right just view the doc as a general guide, honestly i think you need to build at least two or three ships before you start to really understand them and then you will need more from the blueprints than from any manual.

sounds like translation here... if the  clump was created/named in 1840 even giving a couple of years it's way past the Bounty as that is 1780's many years to early for the term to be right.

.

Interesting to hear that my hunch was right, they sell it has 2500 but have no way to test it for that ?  sounds like I will not buy from them. if you have that data in writing I would ask them to send you some money.

they advertised / packaged the device with a claim that they could not test and failed to back up.

regardless of where you bought it they sold a defective device that they manufacture and you proved the defect in a very reasonable time.

did you get the info in writing ?  get it!

amazon or your CC company should get you the purchase cost at the least.

yeah it's not a lot but the point is they are full of bs and I would advise amazon of the false claim they make and they should pull the product.

with mdf other than the chemicals off gassing I do wonder how it will last over a long time.

when the computer and music industry first came out with the CD-ROM and DVD-ROM it was thought that they would last forever as long as the disk did not melt or break.   we now know that some disks can go bad in a few years depending on the material they are made from.

so will MDF last for say 50 or 100 years ? 

Badger: we learn by making mistakes, heck I have soooo many of them in every build I work on it's nuts.

by posting a bunch of pictures we can see what you have and get a better idea of how to fix it.

I have one build I totally am starting over even though I had the hull built!  I saw to many problems and got a second kit, all the un-used wood from the first one just gives me more spare wood!

the only foolish question is the one we do not ask.

Low price for a tool that needs to be well made == you get what you pay for.

Just wanted to say that part of what I wrote before did not really come out right.   two thoughts were competing when I was writing before:

document history and changes on one hand and making the right updates / repairs and while I did not mean "put in repairs that do not match the old parts" that was kind of how it came out.  just the idea that there should be a way for someone years later to work out from records / logs etc... what was done and when it was done and why it was done.   so that we have a history to follow.

I hope that clears up my prior confusing post.

I would not try to match the color of new to old, rather I would document the repairs you make and keep that with the ship. that way if later someone else has to take a look at the ship for any reason they will know who did what and when.

too much of a "cover up" of the fixes could lead to confusion about the age and history of the model.

make it look good but also track the history.

some well known models that we copy today had fixes with no clear history so we have to guess at what happened and is the current rigging or other details a result of the fix or is it from the original model.

I have been getting blocks from Syrenmodelshipcompany.com for upcoming work to replace the stuff I get from Modelshipways.

As I am finishing my current build I saw that the last MS blocks I had for that build in the size I need are really badly made and I started to borrow a few from my stock of good ones.

WATCH OUT!

what I have from MS that is supposed to be 1/8 th of an inch is really 3/16ths of an inch

I do not know if this is just one batch or if this happens with multiple sizes but I can now see for sure that while chuck's blocks are the size he says others may not be!

before I would worry about the material to build from I would do research on the ship, getting a copy of the plans and what did it look like when he was on it.

the "as built" plans may not show the same ship he was on depending on what the ship line updated on the ship.

for example opening a deck and adding a pool.

also if you can not get the exact plans you may get plans for the "type" they may have built say 5 or 10 that are 99% the same.

and how large of a model are you willing to make / how large does he want ?  that will also impact what material to use.

when you know more details of the size and how it looked then that should guide you on using wood / plastic / metal etc....

This may be way to simple but how about making some of the parts from brass ?

With some brass sheet, tube and rod you can do a lot, esp if you make a few tools, one guy here used a drill to make a lathe and carved a lantern that came out really good.

I have heard that this can be used, "Birchwood Casey Brass Black"  look on amazon or at gunsmith supply places

I would also add that you should take plenty of photos of what you have and make a record of what you do to preserve it.

this way if you hand it down to your children they will have a record of what is known so that later folks will understand what they have.

also as it is as much folk art as model do not worry too much on the ships details being out of scale. try to preserve as best you can what they built and the way they built it. that will be more authentic and I think it will have a better value in years to come.

also you might try to find any records of the ships they did sail on and lookup the plans or the type and see if you can make a model of one that is best match for that ship. then folks can compare them to see how well they did making a ship from memory. and add more info on what they did on the actual ship if you can.

this is history that you can save and pass on.

I would also look at # of teeth and the way the cut is related to the grain and the speed of the saw and of the push. also the type of wood you are cutting has an effect on this, how tight, straight and how hard the wood is.

from what I see it does not look bad as long as the fibers are not pulling out bits of wood on the side they are rough.

that would be a problem.

I think also this is one of the reasons why kit's are laser cut ...

Syrenmodelshipcompany.com rope and blocks that are really great

could it be as simple as the torch is at a good temp to solder brass but just not high enough temp to solder copper ? if it was say 100 or 200 degrees low then it fails to work.

I saw the poster say the torch has a possible range that is hot enough but *IS* it actually getting to the right temp ?

well I think it will help if you can tell us which version of the bounty kit you are building as the scale and what the kit has given you instructions for will vary from one to the next.

also some details of rigging may be very difficult in the scale is small, there may be simple versions of some details to use on some kits.

also depending on how much of the model you have built adding rigging of the sails may have issues, to rig sails you need more blocks and more belaying pins and other details, you may need to get more parts and add more belaying pins and such to attach the added lines and blocks to.

not saying do not do it, just that it can add complication to the build.

Wonder if this may be another one of the effects of this being a model of a model that has had some re-working of the rigging. Others have commented on some odd issues in the rigging.

Keith I think he gets them from www.modeltrainsoftware.com

they have a whole lot of different led's there and the switches, transformers small wire and so on... take a good look at them.

Very nice! I would use the yellow led that has built in flicker. I think you got your led from the same place based. On your mention of using paint to dim the light.

with the thin cuts of wood used in most models I am thinking the need for any pressure might be less than large scale wood working.

in many cases we are only getting into say 1 to 5 mm thickness.