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About Griphos

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Hill Country, TX
  • Interests
    Sailing, kayaking, flying, hiking, woodworking

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  1. @Jaager 🙂 I don't want to move it regularly, so no casters. I have some, but will keep them for other projects. There's a power strip in the back left corner, and there's a LED shop light tucked tight under the top shelf. But mounting one with a "crane" is a good idea, so I can put the light where I want it. This shop light is pretty darned bright, though. No brace needed. The lower shelf is hard attached, so it is very stable. Not sure what I'd use folding shelf brackets for. I'm thinking I'll just hang what I need from the peg board. I'm sure it will fill up with stuff before too long. But I am thinking about adding a plastic floor mat/shield beneath it to make vacuuming any errant dust easier. @Ebomba: Yes, lots of natural light in that room. Very good work environment. I built a little jewelry making desk into a cubby on the other side. I do that on the side as a break from modeling. 🙂
  2. I have a little table against the wall of my dining area where I do most of my building. And a full wood shop outside near the house. But, I’ve wanted to make a space for my little Byrnes saw and my spindle sander in the house, as I use them fairly often. So, since my kids have moved out several years ago, I kind of took over part of my son's old room, took a break from building the skipjack, and built this work bench last week. It has a shelf to store my wood, a little vac, a peg board and some lighting. There are no plugs on that wall, so I have to use an extension cord. Quick but serviceable. If I get a little mini lathe again, I can use it there as well, I think, storing it on the lower shelf.
  3. Beautiful work and incredible details. Judging from the ripples along the hull, she’s making pretty good way, but I don’t see any engine controls. I’m assuming diesel power? I love models of working boats.
  4. I highly recommend the line you can get from Chuck here: https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/miniature-rope.php It's all natural fiber, and not only does it look realistic, but it handles beautifully. Chuck can tell you what sizes you need for the Syren if you need him to, I'm sure.
  5. Here's where the build stands at the moment. Have the main (aft) cabin to build and then the rest of the operating deck furniture. Looking forward to that, actually. Going to work at polishing up my brass soldering skills. I'm thinking about leaving the deck and house tops natural, or lightly stained. I know it's not realistic per the prototypes, but it just looks so darned pretty to me. I'm willing to be talked out of it though and paint the whole white, as per the usual practice.
  6. I made the stem and cutwater and drilled the holes for the tie rod. I thought I'd like to try to replicate "nuts" in some way. So I used a hole punch to cut a small hole in some spare sheet brass and then dimpled the discs with a punch into my cutting mat so that they domed. Then I drilled them with the same size drill as the rod I used for the tie rod. #76 I think. It's very small work, and my old eyes aren't what they used to be, so one hole was drilled off center and I had to redo that one. I've included a photo with my glasses and a toothpick for size reference. They looked okayish to me. so I glued them onto the rod and then snipped the ends to what looked like the right length to simulate a bolt head and then painted to see what it would look like. I have to say I'm fairly pleased with the result.
  7. Well, I got side-tracked by some other projects, but am back to the Willie B again. I haven't started a build log, and most of what I've done doesn't look any different from any of the other build logs on this boat so far. But I thought I'd at least show some of the results of this help I received and perhaps any detail that might be interesting or different. Here she is with just one more deck plank to go and the skuppers cut. I decided I didn't like the color of the stain in the main cabin, so I scraped it away on the "step" and painted it white. I did an aniline dye of a similar color on the floor to make it look a bit better. Then I made the ladders and installed them. Oh, an the hatch covers are sitting in roughly the right spots. I decided to make them all removable. I like looking into the hold.
  8. Yes she has linked to a series of videos of her sculpting not too far above in this thread. https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=183&t=85813#p1613874 And she has remarked a few times that she believes her material is similar to FIMO soft.
  9. I thought I should post the results of everyone's assistance. I decided to make some C-clamps from brass and screws. And some miniature wooden screw clamps from, well, wood and screws. 🙂 I couldn't find the screws I wanted for the wood clamps from the local hardware store, so had to order them. Those clamps are pending. Here are the C-clamps and the materials I used. I made some that are 1" on each side, and some that are a little deeper throated (1 1/2"). Thanks to everyone again for the help.
  10. Typically, your top diagram is correct. The two angled connections on the Off pole will be hot (from the power source). And each side will be aligned, white to white and black to black.
  11. The nice thing about those old calipers is that the parts all come apart and can be reconditioned individually. Allows you to get at all the crevices and joints. Enjoy.
  12. May I ask what glue you (and others use) to glue the templates to the wood so that they stick but are easily removable?
  13. I've built most of the ships I've built, and all of the Model Shipways kits without power tools.
  14. Now that's a very clever technique! This sure is a lovely little dinghy. You've got me wanting to make one.
  15. I'm curious as to why the wipe-on poly before working? Is it to protect the soft wood that stains easily? Another reason?

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