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Griphos

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hill Country, TX
  • Interests
    Sailing, kayaking, flying, hiking, woodworking

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  1. The rubber sleeves on my spindle sander are quite dense, and are certainly true enough for this sort of operation, and the sanding tubes are themselves fairly thick. You don’t need to crank down on them. Just a slight tightening holds the tube in place, and the tubes are quite stiff and do not deform. The may be expensive. I don’t know. I’ve yet to have to buy replacements. A rubber sanding stick has cleaned them well and they still serve. A light touch sanding and the oscillation keep them from wearing much. Without the oscillation, they might wear more quickly. Here's something
  2. Might try a spindle sander shaft arrangement, perhaps with a threaded rod. You can still support the free end, but a nut and washer between the support and the rubber sleeve would tighten a spindle sander tube onto the rubber. You’d need to buy a few spindle sander tubes and a rubber sleeve of an appropriate size and a threaded rod of the same diameter as the spindle shaft. You could set up the free end support similar to the bed adjustment to true the sleeve to the bed.
  3. I’m used to soaking a plank in hot water and then bending on a jig with nails to hold the shape. Does bending with a hot iron improve on that? Thanks for the help.
  4. I like the vise idea. So, basically, I just move the wood over the iron, bending slowly.
  5. So you’re the one! I had that sander in my cart as well. I guess you completed the checkout right before I tried. I shouldn’t have looked one last time to see if there was anything else I wanted!
  6. I have the Aeropiccola, but I have never really known how to use it. Do I use a form, or just apply the iron and bend by hand? I’ve never seen any thread about how to use heated plank benders.
  7. Wow. Someone must have bought almost everything while I was adding a few things to my cart. As I went to checkout, all items were removed as out of stock. I only added four things, and there were several of them when I added them.
  8. Osage Orange, or Bois d’Arc (we called them horse apple trees when I was young) might be questionable on the list. The stuff I’ve tried to use has pronounced grain and tends to split and check. Black Locust and Mesquite are both harder than hickory/pecan, I believe. Mesquite sure dulls my tools quickly. And it has rather pronounced grain also. Black Locust is a lovely wood. The trees you mention (at least the ones I have experience with) all are nice to work, but what makes boxwood and pear so nice for our work it the tight and largely invisible grain. That’s what ma
  9. She’s answered that question numerous times over the course of this thread.
  10. Hard is what matters, and stable (doesn't crumble or dust). One nice thing about using a primer is that both primer and paint will telegraph the imperfections well. Even small scratches you don't see will show up when primed/painted. A sanding sealer tends to hide imperfections (partly due to the sheen). So, it might be a good idea to prime it just to spot the problem areas and sand them smooth. You want the smoothest surface possible before painting. For both clear coats and paint, time spent prepping the surface pays dividends.
  11. I'm not familiar with that brand. A quick google and it appears to remain flexible (doesn't shrink or crack), so it may have some acrylic or other flex agent in it already. It does say you can nail into it, so I suppose it hardens somewhat (although I doubt that it will hold a nail for any length of time). At any rate, it also says you can paint directly on it. And it supposedly takes varnish as well. I suspect you have a fairly thin layer of it over most of the surface. I'd still try the sample pieces first, since we don't really know what sort of material the filler is, or
  12. You may have been advised to use poly, or some sealer, in order to “harden” and seal the filler, since there does appear to be more filler than wood that is exposed. That’s not bad advice, depending on what filler you used. Some fillers harden well. Some stay more grainy and it is possible to scratch or dent them more easily than the wood. Shellac can provide a hardened surface to the filler to apply paint to. It was used to create the hard shell on M&M candy originally, which is why they would not “melt in your hand” (I have no idea if it is still what is used). It’s totally n
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