Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click here to order
×
Special NRG Webstore Information - See NRG News and Information
×
Julie Mo
-
Posts
885 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from FriedClams in Germania Nova 1911 by KeithAug - FINISHED - Scale 1:36 - replica of schooner Germania 1908
You are a trouble maker, John. 😉
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from jgodsey in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
While rereading the articles on decking, I saw the suggestion of taking a pencil and using it to darken the edges of the planks, to mimic the black caulking. An idea popped into my head, "Why not glue black card stock to the edges of the planking before laying them down?"
I laid PVA glue on the paper then set a group of planks on their side over it. Then I laid a board over that and applied pressure.
An edge shot before gluing
After the glue had dried, I used a razor knife (not the Exacto in the pic) to separate the planks from each other. The paper split where I didn't slice it clean through. Next round I'll try the Exacto.
But when I pushed the planks together, it closed the tear in the paper. These planks are not glued, they are just resting on the plywood board. When squeezed together, they create a fairly clean joint.
So far, it is looking promising. Sure would be nice not to have to try to set the plank and paper at the same time.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from KeithAug in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Now that the laundry room and one bathroom are done, and the boat is in pretty good shape, I can get back to the model.
I've been playing with how I'm going to move forward on the planking and finding hot hide glue not quite as easy to work with when I can't pin the planks down to the deck. The plywood top is far more resistant to pinning than balsa. But I did manage to lay two planks along each rail to get things started.
Next was to see how I might go about gluing and securing the planking throughout the deck work. I'm using black cardstock for the joints. It's twisted from cutting it into strips and a bit uncooperative.
I'm wondering if CA glue would be an option. Any suggestions?
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from KeithAug in Germania Nova 1911 by KeithAug - FINISHED - Scale 1:36 - replica of schooner Germania 1908
You are a trouble maker, John. 😉
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
While rereading the articles on decking, I saw the suggestion of taking a pencil and using it to darken the edges of the planks, to mimic the black caulking. An idea popped into my head, "Why not glue black card stock to the edges of the planking before laying them down?"
I laid PVA glue on the paper then set a group of planks on their side over it. Then I laid a board over that and applied pressure.
An edge shot before gluing
After the glue had dried, I used a razor knife (not the Exacto in the pic) to separate the planks from each other. The paper split where I didn't slice it clean through. Next round I'll try the Exacto.
But when I pushed the planks together, it closed the tear in the paper. These planks are not glued, they are just resting on the plywood board. When squeezed together, they create a fairly clean joint.
So far, it is looking promising. Sure would be nice not to have to try to set the plank and paper at the same time.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from John Allen in Germania Nova 1911 by KeithAug - FINISHED - Scale 1:36 - replica of schooner Germania 1908
You are a trouble maker, John. 😉
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from cdrusn89 in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
While rereading the articles on decking, I saw the suggestion of taking a pencil and using it to darken the edges of the planks, to mimic the black caulking. An idea popped into my head, "Why not glue black card stock to the edges of the planking before laying them down?"
I laid PVA glue on the paper then set a group of planks on their side over it. Then I laid a board over that and applied pressure.
An edge shot before gluing
After the glue had dried, I used a razor knife (not the Exacto in the pic) to separate the planks from each other. The paper split where I didn't slice it clean through. Next round I'll try the Exacto.
But when I pushed the planks together, it closed the tear in the paper. These planks are not glued, they are just resting on the plywood board. When squeezed together, they create a fairly clean joint.
So far, it is looking promising. Sure would be nice not to have to try to set the plank and paper at the same time.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from KeithAug in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
While rereading the articles on decking, I saw the suggestion of taking a pencil and using it to darken the edges of the planks, to mimic the black caulking. An idea popped into my head, "Why not glue black card stock to the edges of the planking before laying them down?"
I laid PVA glue on the paper then set a group of planks on their side over it. Then I laid a board over that and applied pressure.
An edge shot before gluing
After the glue had dried, I used a razor knife (not the Exacto in the pic) to separate the planks from each other. The paper split where I didn't slice it clean through. Next round I'll try the Exacto.
But when I pushed the planks together, it closed the tear in the paper. These planks are not glued, they are just resting on the plywood board. When squeezed together, they create a fairly clean joint.
So far, it is looking promising. Sure would be nice not to have to try to set the plank and paper at the same time.
-
.thumb.JPG.33e8fc9704bbb01f03cf31c187b62df9.JPG)
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Now that the laundry room and one bathroom are done, and the boat is in pretty good shape, I can get back to the model.
I've been playing with how I'm going to move forward on the planking and finding hot hide glue not quite as easy to work with when I can't pin the planks down to the deck. The plywood top is far more resistant to pinning than balsa. But I did manage to lay two planks along each rail to get things started.
Next was to see how I might go about gluing and securing the planking throughout the deck work. I'm using black cardstock for the joints. It's twisted from cutting it into strips and a bit uncooperative.
I'm wondering if CA glue would be an option. Any suggestions?
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
While I was going through Keith's Germania build, the light bulb went on that I need to mark lines on the deck for reference. I began by using a center finder ruler and making marks at 1/4" apart. But it was difficult to precisely make those marks using these old eyes.
Then another light bulb went on when I realized I have an Incra center finding ruler that has holes in it every 1/32" that fit 5mm lead. No need to rely on the eyes as much.
After laying down those marks I finished up the reference lines.
What I want to do next is decide where I want hatches that will be flush with the deck. I want it to look something like this:
This is the deck of a 53' Spirit. The modifications I began earlier were based on a Spirit 130.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Forging ahead with this idea, I took the floor from the helm station and proceeded to lay down the "teak" decking.
It was pretty time consuming. I started at the center by placing 2 planks with a strip of binding between them and applied acetone. It held pretty well. This was followed by binding, plank, acetone, hold in place for about 10 seconds and repeat. While I know many here are amazing working with tiny parts but that is not my skill.
After several planks had been laid, I realized I needed a better tool to hold the pieces in place for both the application of acetone and keeping pressure until it set. The first attempt was taking a piece of wood and cutting a dado slightly narrower than the plank width and slightly shallower than the plank thickness.
It worked well enough for this job but something better needs to be designed for the main part of the deck. Other things that would help is the binding being closer to the thickness of the plank.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Now that I'm close to finishing the minor interruption in this build, remodeling the house , I've been trying to motivate myself to get back to the model.
I sort of painted myself into a corner when I modified the planking, but yesterday I decided to roll the dice and see what would happen. The hull planking protruded from the stern making the kit piece for the stern deck useless. I took a sanding block to it and started trimming away. It's now even with the plywood top but there is a gap that needs to be filled between the deck and hull planking. I'm looking at something to wrap the entire hull and come up flush with the finished deck.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Oh, the house is still making her demands, Carl, but I'm turning a deaf ear for now.
As for being unable to insert a photo, I've tried the "Insert other media" button below and chose "Insert image from a URL". When I paste the URL location and click "Insert into post" the space where the URL was pasted turns a pale red but nothing else happens. I can click on the insert button all I want and that pop-up window just remains. When I choose the "Drag files here to attach, of choose files..." option I get " There was a problem processing the uploaded file. -200". The Uploaded Images box says the upload failed.
EDIT: It just worked!
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Frank, I'm new to this so I always appreciate input from experienced builders like you. Tell me if this plan is flawed but what I was thinking is I'd make the framing for the raised cabin and then lay the planking on the main deck. Next would be to plank the top of the raised cabin and then plank the sides. Would that be a proper order?
But first I have to figure out how to build the framing for the raised cabin. This is what I've been working on
The drawing is a view of the S130 interior, as if you were standing in the lower saloon and looking at the companionway. The intent was to create a two-piece laminate for the cabin frame. After the glue dried and the first section was placed where it might actually go, it became apparent it would probably be better to stick build it on the model. Kit framing will need to be cut out and I really don't know how that will affect the structural integrity over the long haul. The 7# of shot ballast may work against that effort.
The build will be put on hold for a few weeks. A dear friend in CT has invited us up there to escape the Florida heat. We're leaving Monday.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
When the mind's door opens to solve a problem, one realizes the solution can be applied to other problems. This time the problem was how to cut the thin plywood accurately without a scroll saw. The router came into play again.
By using a 3/64" diameter bit, I was able to easily cut the curve of the raised deck. 1/2" foam board saves the bit from needless wear and makes cutting easier.
Not CNC accuracy but close enough to the line to leave little work for the fine tuning. I switched to a 1/32" diameter bit and cut the first glass out of the oval forward of the raised deck. Then I realized if the glass will be flush with the deck planking, I need to return to the drawing board and design a solution that will accomplish the flush appearance.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I got the gaps filled in with balsa, routed it out and fine tuned it so the parts fit.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I added a brace for the crew cockpit and routed it out to accept the seating. Still have to rout the brace deeper between the seats.
In the photo below, at the forward edge of the cockpit sole there is nothing underneath the plywood. That's next on the to do list. Should the cockpit be built outside the hull and inserted or built as part of the hull?
Still lots left to do here but it's been fun doing something creative.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Have you ever sought out a solution but drew a blank all the while knowing the answer is right in front of you? That's been my last 48 hours. I knew I had a way to cut into the frames of the hull to allow for the modifications but drew a complete blank. I get up at 7 this morning, walk into the workshop, look around and then the light bulb turns on.
If it's good enough for guitar inlays, it should be good enough for modeling. The bit is 1/8" diameter. I have bits that go to 1/32", if needed.
I was doing this by eye so I started out with light passes.
Rough work complete.
From here I used the edges of the plywood as a template to finish the routing.
Next is to cut out the seating in the crew cockpit. I will have to add a brace at the bow end to support the deck and foot well of the cockpit, then rout that out.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Don't encourage me, Per! I'm this close to calling a realtor!
Now back to reality...
The S130 deck plan scaled well.
The "T" piece on the right is the floor of the cockpit. The other one is at the seat level. I had nothing to cut horizontally through the frame. Dremel saw blades on order.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Here's the S130 cockpit blowup of the CAD section I drew up above:
The raised wood surround isn't drawn up in CAD but would be used in the model.
As for the windows, I really like the flush deck windows but I'm not so sure about the side windows. It would seem more aesthetically pleasing to have windows on the front, too, and for the windows to be wider and fewer.
On another note, I added 4# of shot as ballast. It doesn't seem enough weight. It would have been desirable to get the weight into as much as of the keel as possible but the moveable centerboard occupies most of that space. Maybe a trip to pick up another 2#-4# of shot will give the hull a better feel. But I do like the additional weight.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Been doing a lot of CAD work trying to find the key to the city. This is one part 3D, one part one-line perspective of how the S130 setup might look. Still a lot of work left to be done.
Dark blue lines are vertical in the cockpit and helmsman pit. Green lines represent horizontal edges and breaks between deck finishes. The brown box is a sub-pit for the 60" wheel. There would be a raised wood wrap around both the helmsman pit and cockpit.
Believe it or not, the squares just before entering the companionway represent two more companionways that go down to the lower level. Please don't ask me if I am going to recreate those stairs. I've already committed the rest of my life to this.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
The brain won't stop until it's happy. If I can be so bold, I admit to hating what the kit provides for the deck cabin. My vision is to have something less boxy, something that has accommodations for guests, something more inviting and maybe a bit more modern. Time to push the envelope without committing any aesthetic crimes.
I looked at several photos of the current Endeavour and the deck cabins and surrounding woodwork are all pretty boxy except this:
I like the idea of a "safe place" for guests. Lionheart has this:
Something like that would work. I like the fact the forward part of the cabin doesn't look as boxy. Boxy is the one part of the J-Class boats I've never liked. So boxy has to go.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I spent the last couple of days working on some minor details. Some of the planks at the rail weren't firmly bonded so I fixed those. I also planed down the rough edges at the rail and checked the fit of the plywood deck. But before I could do that work I had to make a working cradle.
As the work moved away from midship it became obvious I'll need to add braces closer to the bow and stern. I also decided to make up a laminated piece for the keel. The solid mahogany just doesn't look right, too monolithic and too dark. Lead shot and epoxy are on their way so the deck attachment will have to wait. In the meantime I decided to tackle the deck cabin.
These are the parts:
Before removing them from the plywood sheet, I lightly sanded the entire sheet with 320 grit Granat sandpaper, being conscious of minimizing loss of thickness.
The tolerances weren't what they were with the frame. Kind of disappointed with that.
You can see how sloppy the tolerances are in the above picture. There's no way the light sanding took THAT much off.
In order to get everything plumb and square, the pieces will be glued together in sections using the base of an engineer's square.
The hide glue should be ready now. Time to begin assembly.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Here's the damage:
There's a little crack that was washed out when I took the picture. It's just above the bitter end of the transom planks that are broken off. So they all had to be removed.
When I started removing the top planking, it took some of the sub planking with it.
On the transom there was an extra sub planking laid in so I pared it smooth with a chisel and cleaned up the edges. I could have used some mini chisels for this operation.
I couldn't get the last two planks to stay so I had to remove them for later installation. They are in place now so I'm waiting for the glue to set.
-
Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I got all the mahogany strips for the keel glued in place and smoothed. It turned out okay.
Then came the lacquer, mostly to protect the bare wood from contaminants.
I took the hull outside to spray the lacquer. With the house closed up, the lacquer smell permeates every room, even with the shop door closed. So the hull got a little sun today.
After I get the deck glued down, I'll trim the planks flush.
On a sad note, when I was gluing the keel strips in place, I used rubber bands around the hull. At one point I placed the stern on the floor to put some rubber bands on at the bow. The bow was leaning on my knee with the keep in the air. The weight of the keel spun it around and I heard a sickening CRUNCH! I looked at the stern and about half of the planks on the transom broke off below the rail line. Two steps forward, one step back...
Our Emblem ®
