Dubz

Thank you, James, Derek, and Ernie, looks like Hull Red it is. 🙂
and Derek and Ernie, - I don't think you will be disappointed with this sweet little project, nice lines, beautifully made sails, and a model that can sit on a mantle shelf with ease, casing not necessary.
 
Post 16


 
What to do about steering?


 
I have struggled to accept the steering arrangement as presented in the kit, which may be a simplification as Chris notes in the manual that the kit has been developed with the beginner in mind, and some aspects have been simplified.


 
To my jaundiced old eyes the whole set-up looks more 18th century than the dawn of the 20th century, and distance from the stern to the wheel is also quite puzzling requiring whatever control cables there were to run through the cabin to reach the wheel.

My best guess is that it would represent some sort of drum drive system worked off cables, but the wheel seems a long way from the stern.


 
None of the many photo’s and plans I have scoured on vessels of this type have the wheel arrangement as seen on the kit version.


 
What is indicated is a worm screw system used on these large later period Fifie’s and Zulu’s, probably from the last years of the 19th century, and certainly from the early years of the 20th century.

 

The kit deck layout generally seems to have been taken from the still existing and restored Reaper 1902 and I have decided to modify my version of the kit to better reflect a large early 20th century Fifie.



The arrangement from the plans of the True Vine 1905 drawn by Edgar March show the wheel set just inboard of the stern set in a housing with a worm employed to operate the steering.



True Vine

Here’s a model of the ‘True Vine’ held in the NMM. A worm screw drive is in place.

 
 
I have to thank Lane Duncan, secretary of the Scottish Fishing Museum model boat club for these clear photo’s of the steering set up on Reaper.

 


It is from these photo’s that I hope to make the modifications to the kit.



The wheel position is clearly evident from the Fifie on the left of this photo dated 1904.

It looks to me like they are being towed out of harbour by a steam paddle tug.

 

This painting also shows the arrangement with a worm screw.


 

 
The tricky part now is how to represent what the photo’s show.



 
B.E

23/06/20


 
 
 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 14
 
Back on the deck
 
As I have completed the deck it seems appropriate to fit the timberheads at this time.
 
It is a tedious job fitting all these position specific tiny sections along the bulwark but Chris has done an excellent job with the etched pearwood, which saves a lot of extra fiddling which would otherwise be the case.
 

5601(2)
Care must be taken when handling these pieces, they have an inbuilt drive to ping off into the ether never to be seen again.

5608
I am now into that part of a build I like best, fiddling with the fittings. The fish hatch is the largest fitting on the deck and one that is easy to modify slightly to provide more interest.
 
The kit provides an all-in-one representation of the boards that form the cover.

5602(2)
I prefer to have sections open to view, with a glimpse of the  nets, (detail to follow) in the fish hold.
The boards were modified to allow this.
 
The board lifting rings are represented in the kit by less than convincing eyebolts. I will replace these with ring bolts, tedious as it is.
 
The Fore Mast Housing
This fitting allows the Foremast to be lowered by means of a Tabernacle. This is hidden below decks so it’s not something I need to be concerned about representing, but the model can still be displayed with the mast in the lowered position if desired.

5607(2)
The make- up of this part is a firm fit and I didn’t need to glue the side pieces in place.
The broad thwart is also glued into place.

5598(2)
I did test fit the Fore mast timber (6mm) walnut square stuff which was a tad oversize for the space, but rather than trim the mast I sanded the inside the side pieces to get a snug fit.

5600(2)

5605(2)
This is about as far as I can go with the deck fittings at present.
 
I have some concerns about the steering arrangements and representation and position of the wheel on this sail only vessel. There may have to be some deconstruction/ modification in this area.
 
I have to say I am thoroughly enjoying this build, a departure from my usual 18th century naval subjects.
 
Researching this vessel type is a new interest and I have been in touch with the Curator of the Scottish Fisheries Museum who has provided very useful additional information.
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.
20/06/20
 
 

Post 13


 
A Brief diversion from the main event.


 
Included in the kit is a beautifully etched name plate for the Lady Eleanor.


 
What isn’t included in the kit is the Registration Number, something every fishing vessel would have.


 
So, I decided Lady Eleanor should have one too.


 
As Fraserburgh was a centre of the North East herring fishing trade I used the letter code FR.

 

For the number I decided on 620 being the month and year of the model build.


 
It wasn’t by accident that I decided on fitting the first rubbing strake 6mm below the top strakes. This is the space required for the Registration plate.


 
To make the plate I used a 6mm wide Boxwood strip, and for the characters BECC 5mm vinyl.


5563(2)
The lettering is gold which I don’t want, these registration plates seemed to have white lettering on a black board.

 
The answer is to paint the board white, apply the letters, paint over with a waterproof black marker, and hope the result is as desired once the letters are peeled off.


5568(2)
Well not quite, there was a little bleed beneath the vinyl which required touching in, but I quite like the result.


5576(2)

5578(2)
For a simpler approach Becc do supply 5mm white letter/number sets which could simply be fitted on a black board.


 
Just a small enhancement but now back to the build.


 
B.E.

17/06/20

 
 

The two aircraft 

Finished Chapter 8. As expected, I found installing the rudder to be tricky just like in my previous model. There were a few places where the pintles slipped when I was gluing it on the rudder, which caused CA to smudge in some spots. I quickly grabbed nail polish remover and tried to remove the smudges with a cottonbud, but don't know if I removed all the glue. I hope this does not become very apparent when the plates begin to develop a patina. If it does show in the coming weeks I will need to purchase some ethanol to get rid of the glue (unless someone has better alternatives). That's enough rambling from me, here are some progress pics:
 
Gudgeons and pintles were shaped, and small bits of a steel wire were glued on the pintles using epoxy and CA glue... I don't have a soldering iron so could not make a stronger joint. This looks very messy, but was all hidden after installing everything:


 
After attaching the pintles and gudgeons on the rudder, the entire assembly was installed on the hull:
 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 
Next is the hull details. I am going to try to scratch build my own quarter badges but I may have to use the metal castings if they don't turn out good 😬.

Last ones, lots of pieces go into this 

There a 2 sets of Smaller guns that have PE barrels which I replaced 

Main guns, there is a nice little motto on the side of the aft gun 

There are 6 high altitude AA guns, the kit is quite nice, but the barrels get replaced and I’ve added some extra panels on top (I would have required some surgery to cut the panels out. 

Got the various bits of the bow in place. This completes the basic hull structure. @Chuck Seiler The ladder turned out to be too wide to fit its spot. I had to disassemble it and trim about 1 mm from each step. I glued the sides in first and added the rungs afterward. Next task is to fabricate and hang the rudder.
 

Greetings all!
 
My dad got me this kit around 10 years ago I decided a month ago to bring it home finally and start working on it.  So far I have enjoyed the build.  Putting about a minimum of an hour a day and most days far more than that into construction.  Made a few mistakes but I think I can hide most of them later.  I may do some paint decoration but have not decided on that yet.
 
Been mostly happy with the wood although some of the hull planking had issues even after soaking for hours before I tried to bend it.  Not sure how the darker wood is going to go as I have seen some people comment that it is harder.  I'll be starting that tonight.
 
I made some changes to the deck planking scheme.  The instructions called for single pieces and then using a pencil to draw the lengths.  I ended up cutting the board to a length of 80mm as a maximum and doing it that way.   
 
I do wish the instructions and plans had a bit more detail.  Planking the hull has been interesting due to that.  
 
Last photo is a 1/600 scale Prince that I painted as a Dutch prize.


 
 
 

Hello,
today again only small steps forward. The ratlines of the main shrouds are finished by now.

My rope serving machine has been converted to be able to serve the catharpins
 

Hello,
the catharpins for the main shrouds I make from a rope with a diameter of 0.63 mm, which I serve with my rope serving machine.
 

Here is the first try for fitting.

Hello,
with pictures I have tried to explain the steps to make the catharpins.
I hope that it will become clear so far.

Hello,
the catharpins for the mainmast shrouds are completed.
The catharpins with the futtock shrouds get the final tension.

Hi, Carl,
thanks for your positive feedback and the others for all those LIKES.

Before I can attach the futtock shrouds, I have to attach several guide blocks to the maintop.
 

 

@giampieroricci
Thanks for your kind words.
In the meantime I was able to attach the guide blocks for the braces.

Hello,
in the meantime I also fixed the guiding blocks for the bunt lines at the bottom of the maintop.

 

 

No time like the present, I have re-aligned the water-line at midships.

5557

5541

5540

5559
 
I think I will leave it alone now until I get the paint for the Boot topping.
 
B.E.
16/06/20
 

Post 12


 
That Waterline business


 
I admit I hate doing waterlines, but I thought with this fairly  simple hull form it would be ok.


 
It wasn’t.


 
Neither was it clear where in the cradle the hull was supposed to fit. The hull was a good but not a perfect fit and there was a choice of positions which suited, one as good as another. Was there any hull drag involved? The plan seems to show the top line at the bow below the top point at the stern, which would suggest drag.

 

I first tried the (common) method of marking the bow and stern points by measuring down from the stem and stern posts, and then used the Amati waterline marker along the hull.


 
James made it look easy, but for me this didn’t seem to produce a good result. The bow and stern point were fine but the line seemed to go far too high up in centre area of the hull at mid-ships.

Conversely if I start at the centre the bow and stern points are too low.


 
My next approach was to use the bow and stern points and measure down from mid-ships on the plan and mark this on the hull.


 
Tamiya tape was then run smoothly between the three points. This resulted in a lower centre line which looked better to my eye.


5510
Nothing for it but to run the test and apply a base coat of paint, and see how it met the eye.


5515
I prefer to hand paint wooden models, gives a more natural look to my eye, but each to their own.

 

5516

5519
I have used Vallejo Flat Red for this first coat, it looks brighter under the flash than it really is.

 

I do have some Hull Red on order, which is of a darker tone

 

5521

5528

5529

5532

5535
 
This is as far as I will go for present, I’m not quite sure whether the mid-ships line needs to come up a tad, so there may well be some fiddling yet to do.


 

 
B.E.

16/06/20

 
 

Post 11
 
 
Progressing the hull
 
 
 
At this point I add the bulwark rubbing strakes comprising half-round Walnut strip. Nice quality strip that does the job perfectly.
 
 
I think this will make a nice contrast to the Pearwood planking.
I found using pva adequate for the purpose rather than ca.
 
 
Below are two other rubbing strips also of Walnut.
 
 
The kit manual suggests that the first of these is positioned around 3mm below the upper strake, and the second 4mm below that. The name plate fits between these two strakes.
 
 
I have looked at many photo’s of Fifie’s and similar boats and
there doesn’t necessarily seem to be a set positioning, or even number of rubbing strakes along the sides.
 

Reaper
Looking at the Reaper these two lower rubbing strakes are below the name and Registration number.
 

Swan.
The same applied to the Swan.
 

5474(2)
I have opted to place the first strip 6mm below the upper strake, and the second 4 mm below that.
 

5478(2)
I used Tamiya tape to set the position.
 
 
I found it tricky fixing these very narrow strips as ca is really the only option, and the risk of marking the surrounding areas with glue is high.
 
 
I applied Acetone using a fine paint brush to clean up as I went along.
 

5481(2)

5483(2)

5488(2)
 
Starting to look like a fishing boat now I think. 🙂
 
 
 
 
B.E.
15/06/20
 
 
 

small advances:

Thank you Bob!
 
And 🙂 if things speed up, they speed up 🙂
 
Missing the mast for proper alignment, I put some irons in the middle as spacers for orientation.
 

 
And suddenly things are done.
 

 

 
Knowing my fat fingers, I will do the final alignment just before the final finish.
 
And too, looks like I need better light on my working place - for better enlightment and pictures 😉
 
 
XXXDAn

But some small bit I still managed to do yesterday:
 
First organised the parts on slightly adhesive tape for not messing up the running order of the different lengths.
 

 
Then fixed the iron supports ...
 

 
... and as usual started with the shorter irons of the smaller deadeyes.
 

 
That was the state of yesterday night, just to remember, there will still be a batten in front of the board hiding the slots.
 

 
XXXDAn