AntonyUK

Hi Vaddoc.
Thank you for your kind words.
Yes its a Static model.  
Good advice on cleaning uncured epoxy.. Yes its my first time using the stuff.
Only Glassed one side at the moment as life gets in the way. or should I spell it with a "W" 
The Plans :- The trust has all the plans of the boat and  the ones I ordered are Accommodation Plan which has a Top view and a side view. 
 lines Plan.
 Construction Plan. Top view and a side view. that shows the Deck beams and a centre section side view.
Table of offsets. 
Detail sketches Showing 5 sections across the boat.
Sail Plan.
and a Mid section scanting's.
The Plans are full size all from scans original of plans, 
 
Hoping to carry on next Wednesday as got lots on ATM.
 
Thanks for dropping in. 
AntonyUK.

Hi Vaddoc.
Thank you for your kind words.
Yes its a Static model.  
Good advice on cleaning uncured epoxy.. Yes its my first time using the stuff.
Only Glassed one side at the moment as life gets in the way. or should I spell it with a "W" 
The Plans :- The trust has all the plans of the boat and  the ones I ordered are Accommodation Plan which has a Top view and a side view. 
 lines Plan.
 Construction Plan. Top view and a side view. that shows the Deck beams and a centre section side view.
Table of offsets. 
Detail sketches Showing 5 sections across the boat.
Sail Plan.
and a Mid section scanting's.
The Plans are full size all from scans original of plans, 
 
Hoping to carry on next Wednesday as got lots on ATM.
 
Thanks for dropping in. 
AntonyUK.

Hi Andy. from the SouthWest.
 
A little update.
The deck beams and Stanchion post are added to the hull. The gaps between the  Stanchion posts were filled with Polyisocyanurate foam and trimmed.
This was then sanded to its final before covering with plaster of paris bandage. 


Now for the messy bit. Covering the hull with the plaster of paris bandage.  That's  a tomorrow job.
 
Another  CAD view of the assembly. 

Thanks for looking in. More updated as I progress.
Regards Antony UK.

Good morning. 
Just a little insight into how the drawings are created.
I use Fusion360 Hobby Home version. 
The plans were imported and scaled to the correct length at the waterline.  Then there positions were adjusted to match together so that when you rotate the drawings it looks and reacts as it should in 3D.
All the Components then have Drawing plane's on all X Y and Z planes added(Just a habit encase I need them latter on)  
Each part has its own drawing so that I can use Origin Shaper add-in to export the SVG files in the next stage.
The parts are drawn one at a time in the correct order so I can see them to check on the fairings and assembly alignment. 
A few screenshots.

The Keel is made using a bread and butter construction. This gives me a true shape and is easy to fare when it comes to the sanding. Used dowels to get the alignment spot on. The layers are 4.2mm in thickness. and the bottom one is 6mm thick.

Sternpost is made up using 4 parts and and I used 16mm thick timber. All the parts were marked with a laser and also marked the rabbet line at the same time. parts were cut with correct grain direction.
Final fitting with file and chisel to get the fit.

The stem was done using the same method as the Sternpost. Using 14mm thick timber and the mast step was 21mm timber. 

The assembly matched together. 

Assembly with Frame drawings. Showing the lines very nicely. 
The frame drawing were put onto a sketch which is the size of my laser. this made it easy to manipulate the parts ready for Shaper to do its magic. 

The inverted building Base. 
 
That's it for now.
 
Regards AntonyUK. 
 

A little update after 4 hours of fairing. Using power tools and hand tools.

The Keel faired to the hull. Still needs finishing before coating.

Cutwater fairing is going well still needs finishing with hand tools and finer grit.

another view if the Cutwater.

Sternpost fairing going well. As above need finishing.
More sanding before coating and recoating a few times.
 
Regards AntonyUK.

A little update. 
The Polyisocyanurate boards were cut down into strips that are a tight fit between the frames. over size as its easy to sand to a good fit with sandpaper.
Used Everbuild 502 wood adhesive to glue the foam in place.

The extra bits were flats so a little scraps are applied to fill the spaces.
The interior of the hull looks like its scrap but this will be cleaned up after fibre glassing.

Did a little trimming today to get rid of most of the excess foam. by trimming with a hacksaw blade and then sanding with flat board with sandpaper. and the concave parts I used a spray can with sandpaper wrapped around it to get the contours right.


The photo above is the first level of sanding. will sand down till the charcoal from laser cutting is removed from top of frames. And yes this if a very dusty process and the correct type of raspatory mask and eye protection were used. 
I estimate the sanding will take me a few days as its easy to work with but I want to get it as close as possible to perfect before continuing with the next phase.
 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards AntonyUK.

The boat Tally Ho.
 
I got interested in this cutter from a YouTube series by Leo.
https://www.youtube.com/@SampsonBoatCo/videos
Followed the build all the way through. Leo is a Boat builder and sailor. (His words)
 
Started on this boat in August 2024 by ordering a set of plans from the Albert Strange Trust https://albertstrange.org/
 
I decided that the model should be :-  1000mm at the waterline and 1173 from Stem to Sternpost and a 287 Beam.
I used Fusion360 (Home hobby version) to bring the 2D plans into 3D which took me till December.
My son purchased a Laser cutter for me as a Christmas present. 22 watts and a cutting bed area of 410X400.
Then it took me 2 months to learn how to use it and to set it up in my shed with a Ventilation extraction system.
The software I used was Shaper Origin Addon in Fusion. to export the .svg file to Inkscape. And then into LaserGRBL for the cutting interface to the Laser cutter.
 
The Stem Sternpost Deadwoods are 16.6 timber. They were marked by laser engraving a line onto the timbers and band sawing the parts out. They were finished to size using a Proxton mini mill to square and split the laser line.
The Bow and stern sections were assembled and checked and glued.
 
The Keel was made up by using a bread and butter construction method. The layers were cut on the laser using 4.2mm pine from my local DIY store. I had 4 dowel pin holes along the length of the keel to ensure the straight and true alignment.
Dry assembled and checked for length shape and alignment. All good so on with the gluing.
The frames were laser cut using 6mm laser ply. This was my first real cutting with the laser.
 
The Bow Stern and keel were glued and pined together. Wow this is going to be a BIG model.
 
I also designed a Jig to build the boat on fusion to help with the alignment.
 
Building this boat inverted as it best for me. The keel and Stem and Stern post were added to the Jig then the frames were placed in place on the jig. Everything looked spot on so i glued them together.
Small bits if off cuts were added between the frames to maintain the correct frame spacing.
 
Now we are up to date with the build as it is now.


Next week.
Going to fill between the frames with 40mm insulation foam boards. This will provide me with something to fare the frames and to lay fibreglass onto.
Not done any fibre glassing before so ANY advice would be helpful.
Regards AntonyUK.

Hello again.
A change of plans. After testing polyester resin on the Polyisocyanurate foam it showed no signs of melting the foam. 
I just wet the foam with the resin then added 300g chopped strand mat and wetted it through.
Left it 24 hours and sliced it through with a bandsaw. 
So  I will Not be using the plaster of paris to give the hull a firm surface for finishing. 

Looks good to me
So I will apply 2 layers of 300g matting and sand to a good fare curve mabe adding more matt and resin or filler if needed. then I will spray a grey gel coat onto the sanded surface and fine sand to a finish.
then a white gel coat and fine sand and polish. I am hoping that I can cut the planking seams in with a diamond edge and fare curve plank. Will test this on some scrape before attempting to do it on the hull.
This fibre glassing is all new to me. Any advice ?? .
 
Thanks for looking in.
AntonyUK.
 

Hello again.
A change of plans. After testing polyester resin on the Polyisocyanurate foam it showed no signs of melting the foam. 
I just wet the foam with the resin then added 300g chopped strand mat and wetted it through.
Left it 24 hours and sliced it through with a bandsaw. 
So  I will Not be using the plaster of paris to give the hull a firm surface for finishing. 

Looks good to me
So I will apply 2 layers of 300g matting and sand to a good fare curve mabe adding more matt and resin or filler if needed. then I will spray a grey gel coat onto the sanded surface and fine sand to a finish.
then a white gel coat and fine sand and polish. I am hoping that I can cut the planking seams in with a diamond edge and fare curve plank. Will test this on some scrape before attempting to do it on the hull.
This fibre glassing is all new to me. Any advice ?? .
 
Thanks for looking in.
AntonyUK.
 

Hello again.
A change of plans. After testing polyester resin on the Polyisocyanurate foam it showed no signs of melting the foam. 
I just wet the foam with the resin then added 300g chopped strand mat and wetted it through.
Left it 24 hours and sliced it through with a bandsaw. 
So  I will Not be using the plaster of paris to give the hull a firm surface for finishing. 

Looks good to me
So I will apply 2 layers of 300g matting and sand to a good fare curve mabe adding more matt and resin or filler if needed. then I will spray a grey gel coat onto the sanded surface and fine sand to a finish.
then a white gel coat and fine sand and polish. I am hoping that I can cut the planking seams in with a diamond edge and fare curve plank. Will test this on some scrape before attempting to do it on the hull.
This fibre glassing is all new to me. Any advice ?? .
 
Thanks for looking in.
AntonyUK.
 

Hello again.
A change of plans. After testing polyester resin on the Polyisocyanurate foam it showed no signs of melting the foam. 
I just wet the foam with the resin then added 300g chopped strand mat and wetted it through.
Left it 24 hours and sliced it through with a bandsaw. 
So  I will Not be using the plaster of paris to give the hull a firm surface for finishing. 

Looks good to me
So I will apply 2 layers of 300g matting and sand to a good fare curve mabe adding more matt and resin or filler if needed. then I will spray a grey gel coat onto the sanded surface and fine sand to a finish.
then a white gel coat and fine sand and polish. I am hoping that I can cut the planking seams in with a diamond edge and fare curve plank. Will test this on some scrape before attempting to do it on the hull.
This fibre glassing is all new to me. Any advice ?? .
 
Thanks for looking in.
AntonyUK.
 

Hi Andy. from the SouthWest.
 
A little update.
The deck beams and Stanchion post are added to the hull. The gaps between the  Stanchion posts were filled with Polyisocyanurate foam and trimmed.
This was then sanded to its final before covering with plaster of paris bandage. 


Now for the messy bit. Covering the hull with the plaster of paris bandage.  That's  a tomorrow job.
 
Another  CAD view of the assembly. 

Thanks for looking in. More updated as I progress.
Regards Antony UK.

Good morning. 
Just a little insight into how the drawings are created.
I use Fusion360 Hobby Home version. 
The plans were imported and scaled to the correct length at the waterline.  Then there positions were adjusted to match together so that when you rotate the drawings it looks and reacts as it should in 3D.
All the Components then have Drawing plane's on all X Y and Z planes added(Just a habit encase I need them latter on)  
Each part has its own drawing so that I can use Origin Shaper add-in to export the SVG files in the next stage.
The parts are drawn one at a time in the correct order so I can see them to check on the fairings and assembly alignment. 
A few screenshots.

The Keel is made using a bread and butter construction. This gives me a true shape and is easy to fare when it comes to the sanding. Used dowels to get the alignment spot on. The layers are 4.2mm in thickness. and the bottom one is 6mm thick.

Sternpost is made up using 4 parts and and I used 16mm thick timber. All the parts were marked with a laser and also marked the rabbet line at the same time. parts were cut with correct grain direction.
Final fitting with file and chisel to get the fit.

The stem was done using the same method as the Sternpost. Using 14mm thick timber and the mast step was 21mm timber. 

The assembly matched together. 

Assembly with Frame drawings. Showing the lines very nicely. 
The frame drawing were put onto a sketch which is the size of my laser. this made it easy to manipulate the parts ready for Shaper to do its magic. 

The inverted building Base. 
 
That's it for now.
 
Regards AntonyUK. 
 

A little update after 4 hours of fairing. Using power tools and hand tools.

The Keel faired to the hull. Still needs finishing before coating.

Cutwater fairing is going well still needs finishing with hand tools and finer grit.

another view if the Cutwater.

Sternpost fairing going well. As above need finishing.
More sanding before coating and recoating a few times.
 
Regards AntonyUK.

A little update. 
The Polyisocyanurate boards were cut down into strips that are a tight fit between the frames. over size as its easy to sand to a good fit with sandpaper.
Used Everbuild 502 wood adhesive to glue the foam in place.

The extra bits were flats so a little scraps are applied to fill the spaces.
The interior of the hull looks like its scrap but this will be cleaned up after fibre glassing.

Did a little trimming today to get rid of most of the excess foam. by trimming with a hacksaw blade and then sanding with flat board with sandpaper. and the concave parts I used a spray can with sandpaper wrapped around it to get the contours right.


The photo above is the first level of sanding. will sand down till the charcoal from laser cutting is removed from top of frames. And yes this if a very dusty process and the correct type of raspatory mask and eye protection were used. 
I estimate the sanding will take me a few days as its easy to work with but I want to get it as close as possible to perfect before continuing with the next phase.
 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards AntonyUK.

The boat Tally Ho.
 
I got interested in this cutter from a YouTube series by Leo.
https://www.youtube.com/@SampsonBoatCo/videos
Followed the build all the way through. Leo is a Boat builder and sailor. (His words)
 
Started on this boat in August 2024 by ordering a set of plans from the Albert Strange Trust https://albertstrange.org/
 
I decided that the model should be :-  1000mm at the waterline and 1173 from Stem to Sternpost and a 287 Beam.
I used Fusion360 (Home hobby version) to bring the 2D plans into 3D which took me till December.
My son purchased a Laser cutter for me as a Christmas present. 22 watts and a cutting bed area of 410X400.
Then it took me 2 months to learn how to use it and to set it up in my shed with a Ventilation extraction system.
The software I used was Shaper Origin Addon in Fusion. to export the .svg file to Inkscape. And then into LaserGRBL for the cutting interface to the Laser cutter.
 
The Stem Sternpost Deadwoods are 16.6 timber. They were marked by laser engraving a line onto the timbers and band sawing the parts out. They were finished to size using a Proxton mini mill to square and split the laser line.
The Bow and stern sections were assembled and checked and glued.
 
The Keel was made up by using a bread and butter construction method. The layers were cut on the laser using 4.2mm pine from my local DIY store. I had 4 dowel pin holes along the length of the keel to ensure the straight and true alignment.
Dry assembled and checked for length shape and alignment. All good so on with the gluing.
The frames were laser cut using 6mm laser ply. This was my first real cutting with the laser.
 
The Bow Stern and keel were glued and pined together. Wow this is going to be a BIG model.
 
I also designed a Jig to build the boat on fusion to help with the alignment.
 
Building this boat inverted as it best for me. The keel and Stem and Stern post were added to the Jig then the frames were placed in place on the jig. Everything looked spot on so i glued them together.
Small bits if off cuts were added between the frames to maintain the correct frame spacing.
 
Now we are up to date with the build as it is now.


Next week.
Going to fill between the frames with 40mm insulation foam boards. This will provide me with something to fare the frames and to lay fibreglass onto.
Not done any fibre glassing before so ANY advice would be helpful.
Regards AntonyUK.

Hello again.
A change of plans. After testing polyester resin on the Polyisocyanurate foam it showed no signs of melting the foam. 
I just wet the foam with the resin then added 300g chopped strand mat and wetted it through.
Left it 24 hours and sliced it through with a bandsaw. 
So  I will Not be using the plaster of paris to give the hull a firm surface for finishing. 

Looks good to me
So I will apply 2 layers of 300g matting and sand to a good fare curve mabe adding more matt and resin or filler if needed. then I will spray a grey gel coat onto the sanded surface and fine sand to a finish.
then a white gel coat and fine sand and polish. I am hoping that I can cut the planking seams in with a diamond edge and fare curve plank. Will test this on some scrape before attempting to do it on the hull.
This fibre glassing is all new to me. Any advice ?? .
 
Thanks for looking in.
AntonyUK.
 

Hi Andy. from the SouthWest.
 
A little update.
The deck beams and Stanchion post are added to the hull. The gaps between the  Stanchion posts were filled with Polyisocyanurate foam and trimmed.
This was then sanded to its final before covering with plaster of paris bandage. 


Now for the messy bit. Covering the hull with the plaster of paris bandage.  That's  a tomorrow job.
 
Another  CAD view of the assembly. 

Thanks for looking in. More updated as I progress.
Regards Antony UK.

Good morning. 
Just a little insight into how the drawings are created.
I use Fusion360 Hobby Home version. 
The plans were imported and scaled to the correct length at the waterline.  Then there positions were adjusted to match together so that when you rotate the drawings it looks and reacts as it should in 3D.
All the Components then have Drawing plane's on all X Y and Z planes added(Just a habit encase I need them latter on)  
Each part has its own drawing so that I can use Origin Shaper add-in to export the SVG files in the next stage.
The parts are drawn one at a time in the correct order so I can see them to check on the fairings and assembly alignment. 
A few screenshots.

The Keel is made using a bread and butter construction. This gives me a true shape and is easy to fare when it comes to the sanding. Used dowels to get the alignment spot on. The layers are 4.2mm in thickness. and the bottom one is 6mm thick.

Sternpost is made up using 4 parts and and I used 16mm thick timber. All the parts were marked with a laser and also marked the rabbet line at the same time. parts were cut with correct grain direction.
Final fitting with file and chisel to get the fit.

The stem was done using the same method as the Sternpost. Using 14mm thick timber and the mast step was 21mm timber. 

The assembly matched together. 

Assembly with Frame drawings. Showing the lines very nicely. 
The frame drawing were put onto a sketch which is the size of my laser. this made it easy to manipulate the parts ready for Shaper to do its magic. 

The inverted building Base. 
 
That's it for now.
 
Regards AntonyUK. 
 

Good morning. 
Just a little insight into how the drawings are created.
I use Fusion360 Hobby Home version. 
The plans were imported and scaled to the correct length at the waterline.  Then there positions were adjusted to match together so that when you rotate the drawings it looks and reacts as it should in 3D.
All the Components then have Drawing plane's on all X Y and Z planes added(Just a habit encase I need them latter on)  
Each part has its own drawing so that I can use Origin Shaper add-in to export the SVG files in the next stage.
The parts are drawn one at a time in the correct order so I can see them to check on the fairings and assembly alignment. 
A few screenshots.

The Keel is made using a bread and butter construction. This gives me a true shape and is easy to fare when it comes to the sanding. Used dowels to get the alignment spot on. The layers are 4.2mm in thickness. and the bottom one is 6mm thick.

Sternpost is made up using 4 parts and and I used 16mm thick timber. All the parts were marked with a laser and also marked the rabbet line at the same time. parts were cut with correct grain direction.
Final fitting with file and chisel to get the fit.

The stem was done using the same method as the Sternpost. Using 14mm thick timber and the mast step was 21mm timber. 

The assembly matched together. 

Assembly with Frame drawings. Showing the lines very nicely. 
The frame drawing were put onto a sketch which is the size of my laser. this made it easy to manipulate the parts ready for Shaper to do its magic. 

The inverted building Base. 
 
That's it for now.
 
Regards AntonyUK. 
 

The boat Tally Ho.
 
I got interested in this cutter from a YouTube series by Leo.
https://www.youtube.com/@SampsonBoatCo/videos
Followed the build all the way through. Leo is a Boat builder and sailor. (His words)
 
Started on this boat in August 2024 by ordering a set of plans from the Albert Strange Trust https://albertstrange.org/
 
I decided that the model should be :-  1000mm at the waterline and 1173 from Stem to Sternpost and a 287 Beam.
I used Fusion360 (Home hobby version) to bring the 2D plans into 3D which took me till December.
My son purchased a Laser cutter for me as a Christmas present. 22 watts and a cutting bed area of 410X400.
Then it took me 2 months to learn how to use it and to set it up in my shed with a Ventilation extraction system.
The software I used was Shaper Origin Addon in Fusion. to export the .svg file to Inkscape. And then into LaserGRBL for the cutting interface to the Laser cutter.
 
The Stem Sternpost Deadwoods are 16.6 timber. They were marked by laser engraving a line onto the timbers and band sawing the parts out. They were finished to size using a Proxton mini mill to square and split the laser line.
The Bow and stern sections were assembled and checked and glued.
 
The Keel was made up by using a bread and butter construction method. The layers were cut on the laser using 4.2mm pine from my local DIY store. I had 4 dowel pin holes along the length of the keel to ensure the straight and true alignment.
Dry assembled and checked for length shape and alignment. All good so on with the gluing.
The frames were laser cut using 6mm laser ply. This was my first real cutting with the laser.
 
The Bow Stern and keel were glued and pined together. Wow this is going to be a BIG model.
 
I also designed a Jig to build the boat on fusion to help with the alignment.
 
Building this boat inverted as it best for me. The keel and Stem and Stern post were added to the Jig then the frames were placed in place on the jig. Everything looked spot on so i glued them together.
Small bits if off cuts were added between the frames to maintain the correct frame spacing.
 
Now we are up to date with the build as it is now.


Next week.
Going to fill between the frames with 40mm insulation foam boards. This will provide me with something to fare the frames and to lay fibreglass onto.
Not done any fibre glassing before so ANY advice would be helpful.
Regards AntonyUK.

Good morning. 
Just a little insight into how the drawings are created.
I use Fusion360 Hobby Home version. 
The plans were imported and scaled to the correct length at the waterline.  Then there positions were adjusted to match together so that when you rotate the drawings it looks and reacts as it should in 3D.
All the Components then have Drawing plane's on all X Y and Z planes added(Just a habit encase I need them latter on)  
Each part has its own drawing so that I can use Origin Shaper add-in to export the SVG files in the next stage.
The parts are drawn one at a time in the correct order so I can see them to check on the fairings and assembly alignment. 
A few screenshots.

The Keel is made using a bread and butter construction. This gives me a true shape and is easy to fare when it comes to the sanding. Used dowels to get the alignment spot on. The layers are 4.2mm in thickness. and the bottom one is 6mm thick.

Sternpost is made up using 4 parts and and I used 16mm thick timber. All the parts were marked with a laser and also marked the rabbet line at the same time. parts were cut with correct grain direction.
Final fitting with file and chisel to get the fit.

The stem was done using the same method as the Sternpost. Using 14mm thick timber and the mast step was 21mm timber. 

The assembly matched together. 

Assembly with Frame drawings. Showing the lines very nicely. 
The frame drawing were put onto a sketch which is the size of my laser. this made it easy to manipulate the parts ready for Shaper to do its magic. 

The inverted building Base. 
 
That's it for now.
 
Regards AntonyUK. 
 

Good morning. 
Just a little insight into how the drawings are created.
I use Fusion360 Hobby Home version. 
The plans were imported and scaled to the correct length at the waterline.  Then there positions were adjusted to match together so that when you rotate the drawings it looks and reacts as it should in 3D.
All the Components then have Drawing plane's on all X Y and Z planes added(Just a habit encase I need them latter on)  
Each part has its own drawing so that I can use Origin Shaper add-in to export the SVG files in the next stage.
The parts are drawn one at a time in the correct order so I can see them to check on the fairings and assembly alignment. 
A few screenshots.

The Keel is made using a bread and butter construction. This gives me a true shape and is easy to fare when it comes to the sanding. Used dowels to get the alignment spot on. The layers are 4.2mm in thickness. and the bottom one is 6mm thick.

Sternpost is made up using 4 parts and and I used 16mm thick timber. All the parts were marked with a laser and also marked the rabbet line at the same time. parts were cut with correct grain direction.
Final fitting with file and chisel to get the fit.

The stem was done using the same method as the Sternpost. Using 14mm thick timber and the mast step was 21mm timber. 

The assembly matched together. 

Assembly with Frame drawings. Showing the lines very nicely. 
The frame drawing were put onto a sketch which is the size of my laser. this made it easy to manipulate the parts ready for Shaper to do its magic. 

The inverted building Base. 
 
That's it for now.
 
Regards AntonyUK. 
 

A little update after 4 hours of fairing. Using power tools and hand tools.

The Keel faired to the hull. Still needs finishing before coating.

Cutwater fairing is going well still needs finishing with hand tools and finer grit.

another view if the Cutwater.

Sternpost fairing going well. As above need finishing.
More sanding before coating and recoating a few times.
 
Regards AntonyUK.

Good morning. 
Just a little insight into how the drawings are created.
I use Fusion360 Hobby Home version. 
The plans were imported and scaled to the correct length at the waterline.  Then there positions were adjusted to match together so that when you rotate the drawings it looks and reacts as it should in 3D.
All the Components then have Drawing plane's on all X Y and Z planes added(Just a habit encase I need them latter on)  
Each part has its own drawing so that I can use Origin Shaper add-in to export the SVG files in the next stage.
The parts are drawn one at a time in the correct order so I can see them to check on the fairings and assembly alignment. 
A few screenshots.

The Keel is made using a bread and butter construction. This gives me a true shape and is easy to fare when it comes to the sanding. Used dowels to get the alignment spot on. The layers are 4.2mm in thickness. and the bottom one is 6mm thick.

Sternpost is made up using 4 parts and and I used 16mm thick timber. All the parts were marked with a laser and also marked the rabbet line at the same time. parts were cut with correct grain direction.
Final fitting with file and chisel to get the fit.

The stem was done using the same method as the Sternpost. Using 14mm thick timber and the mast step was 21mm timber. 

The assembly matched together. 

Assembly with Frame drawings. Showing the lines very nicely. 
The frame drawing were put onto a sketch which is the size of my laser. this made it easy to manipulate the parts ready for Shaper to do its magic. 

The inverted building Base. 
 
That's it for now.
 
Regards AntonyUK.