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About FreekS

  • Birthday 11/16/1961

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  1. I've made quite a bit of progress since September - thanks to lockdown but unthanks to recent cold in the basement! The "Techrack" is fully built - with batteries, Engel "Kolbentank", Arduino controller for the tank built by a friend, brushless motor and controller, magnetic on/off switch, Corona (!) 40 MHz 8-channel receiver and three news servos. I'll do a video of it somewhat later the picture shows the incividual components. The propeller and shroud, diveplanes fore and aft and the tank all work well off my Futuba Mx-16 transmitter. Now working on the waterproof LED strip that will pr
  2. That’s a great idea, everything is still loose and I’ll think how I can do that. I’m waiting for the prop shaft to arrive ..... Thanks!
  3. Started now on the more technical parts - from the stern forward. I decided to print the shroud/rudder combination, and it will be quite a challenge to mount and ensure the propellor aligns perfectly with it. I am waiting for parts of the drivetrain, so focused on making the supports for the shroud, and the stern dive planes which will be controlled via a Bowden cable visible. The second Bowden controlling the rudder will run through the lower wooden support part. Above the model a couple of fotos of the original at launch in early 1960s and and pre restoration around 2010.....
  4. Hi all, first layer of epoxy-putty is on, and I’ve laid out the equipment I’m going to have to install, and roughly where in the boat it will come. note the picture is a bit „wavy“ due to panorama mode....! from left to right battery pack placeholder, LED Controller for the strip of LEDs that will come above the windows, Engel Ballast Tank (basically large electric syringe to take water in and pump it out) 40 MHz receiver and electronic leveler three servos for rudder and front and rear diveplanes Ballast tank controller motor speed cont
  5. Woodwork on the hull nearly finished - next is impregnating with thin epoxy resin, then applying thick epoxy and sanding. Oh well, only in year 5 or so. Freek
  6. Finally starting to look recognizable. The woodwork is slow, mainly because the drawings I constructed from photos are not always accurate. But I’m not unhappy with the rough shape. It will be tricky to align the front and rear sides, which are separated by a bayonet. But at least I’m in my basement while it’s 32C outside!
  7. Well, I’m building again! My other projects are finished and as there is little model ship sailing going on I don’t need much time for repairs! Been working on the deck section of the Mesocaph, which will fit on top of the cylindrical pressure hull.
  8. Hi Mark, here’s the latest generation of the torpedo - in “my neighbors” pond This second video is from 2015 and shows the boat firing torpedos. Note, these were not electric - but rubber-motor powered. freek
  9. Hi Piet, sorry my project is going so slowly and I missed your post! I’ve got two parallel projects happening, one was to build 1:50 electric torpedos (weight 7 gram) for my K-XVIII. I succeeded thanks to the trend to “supercap”, using a 1F (correct, not picoFarad) capacitor gives me 10 seconds and 5 meter range. The toros work, now I need to update the firing mechanism of the two deck tubes on K-XVIII. The other project is to take a 1:48 plastic modelkit of an ASW Grumman Avenger, and make it into a working sub - flying loopings and barrel rolls under water. That one is still in the “tough”
  10. Hi all, Progress continues very slowly, and with a major interruption, as my wife Kien and I are moving back from Germany to Netherlands early next week. That means EVERYTHING must be packed up, including my shipyard! So here it is, I waited until 5 days before the movers came, but I’ve not seen this room this tidy in years! The last work was on an inside frame for the sail of the boat. Underwater the sail will have quite some water resistance so Picard built the sail around a metal frame (see pic in post #20). I decided to make it out of 2.5x2.5 mm messing, soldered t
  11. Hi Piet! Mostly I use two-component epoxy (the slow curing variant as its waterproof). In this case there will also be a metal (messing) frame on the inside of the sail (it’s partly visible one one of the photos of the sub in Luzern) and I can hopefully sandwich the “glass” at least partly between the sail and this frame. That may reduce visibility of the glued areas. I might also paint those white on the inside. Not planned in detail yet...! Thanks for the likes and thoughts! Freek
  12. Hi all, today I tried to make one of the most curved windows of the subs sail. I used some transparent plastic (unknown origin) from a carton display box, a heat gun and a sanded 3D blank. Result of this test were encouraging, there is some yellowing of the plastic and the blank was not entirely the right shape, but it looks like a possible way of doing it!
  13. Amazingly, the printer finished the 16 hour printjob without a hiccup! I had spent maybe 3 afternoons behind my CAD program to design the shape of the sail, and expected to have to print it several times (I still may have to!). So after removing the support material I stiffened the sail with some foam to enable easier handling and sanding. Started with wet sanding with 60 and 120 waterproof sandpaper, and now may need to use some filler before continuing. I’m actually thrilled at the look of the sail! But it’s pretty fragile with couple of pieces having been broken and glued already. It’s slow
  14. Now working on the sail (it’s upside down!). If the 3D print comes out - it was a steep learning curve in auto sketch fusion 360 - then the problem is reduced to making the heavily curved transparent windows.
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