6ohiocav

Mike,
 
Tightening up the lanyards is a tricky process, and yes, until finally set, they can twist and usually do. I have been reluctant to finally set any of my lanyards on the bow, that is tied and set with a drop of glue.  Some are just knotted, some are still loose. I am giving myself the ability to undo something if necessary or tighten them up if I create slack when adding another line (a constant frustration.) Once I get all of the rigging done, I will go back and finalize all of the tie offs with glue, and will be able to undo any twists.
 
I wrap my bullseyes with three lashes.  The rope does not easily slip through when lashed three times, so yes, you have to tug on the first, and pick up the slack on the later. And you have to be careful that you don't pull too hard.
 
By the way, on the slack issue, I have decided to hold off until the very end to tie off the back stays. I have figured out that those lines will tighten up the entire front portion of the rigging. The 19th Century shipwright knew what he was doing in the design of a rigged sailing ship.

FOREMAST HALLIARDS AND JIB OUTHAUL TACKLE
 
I continued working on the running rigging on the foremast. I added the 4 halliards used to haul the stay sails. That included attaching blocks on the foremast, which I had done earlier, and also adding blocks to the bowsprit and jib for the downhaul lines. For some reason, I missed those. Probably because when I built the bowsprit and jib many months ago, I did not know what a halliard even was.
 
In any case, I had to tie on 4 blocks to a very crowded bowsprit and jib.  The main halliard downhaul block had to be positioned under the main stay open heart. There was no way I was going to be able to lash that to the spar, so I opted to strop the block to an eyebolt. I was able to position my pin vice in between the jaws of the heart and drill a receiving hole, and carefully insert the eyebolt with a drop of CA.  The rest of the downhaul blocks were lashed.
 
All of the downhaul lines then traverse the length of the bowsprit and pass through fairlead holes in the chock rail and are tied off on the forward pin rail. The only problem is that I failed to drill the holes in the chock rail. Again, I had to do that in between the lines of spaghetti ropes and of course the spritsail yard was in the way of where I had to turn the drill. Niagara builders – DRILL THE HOLES BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE BOWSPRIT.
 
The loose end of the uphaul line had to be belayed, according to the plans, to the “stay throats.” That was not overly specific, so I used a best guess, based on what a 1/64 figurine standing on the tops would do with the loose end – tie it waist high in an easy access place that was out of the way.
 
I also added the jib outhaul tackle. I used a .018 tan rope with 1/8 blocks. The plans however did not specify where the loose end of the rope went to. I looked in the plans and the instruction book. Nothing.  I therefore assumed it passed along the bowsprit, through the fairlead holes and was tied to the forward pin rail.

Thanks Mike and Steve,
 
Any time you have to do something 250 times in a row, you get into a rythem. My knot tying in general has improved exponentially. I cannot believe how many things need to be tied up and I am not even close to being half done.
 
I also have to give a ton of credit to my fellow Niagara builders, past and present. If not for your build logs and fantastic models, I could never have overcome the 'umpteen" different challenges that would have swamped this effort and put this build on the shelf.

Joel,
 
I am not a surgeon, or a weaver,--- But I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express ...... BAD JOKE.
 
Actually, the credit all goes to Chuck's wonderful Syren products. Using great rope and his laser cut hearts makes all the difference.  Also, a dogged persistence to do and redo everything until it looks right. And for that, you have to thank all of the incredible shipwrights on this forum. Every tip I use is borrowed from someone.
 
Thanks Mike and Mike.  Welcome in Steve. And Elijah, no greater compliment can be given to an amateur modeler than the kind words you sent along.

BOWSPRIT SHROUDS
 
Just a quick update as I go through the plans and pick up some things that I misses at the bow. I installed the bowsprit shrouds.  I used a .025 black rope with a blackened black hook seized to one end and hooked to an eyebolt on the side of the hull.  The other end was lashed to a bullseye. I had to make up another batch of cherry bullseyes on my mini lathe (see previous post). I seized a .012 tan lanyard to the bullseye and wound it to the bullseyes lashed to the bowsprit.
 
Another tedious endeavor.  The Bowsprit/jib is a very complicated place with ropes and lines going in every direction.  The good news is that I believe I have completed all of the rigging up front and as far as I can tell, no line is rubbing up against its neighbor.

BOWSPRIT SHROUDS
 
Just a quick update as I go through the plans and pick up some things that I misses at the bow. I installed the bowsprit shrouds.  I used a .025 black rope with a blackened black hook seized to one end and hooked to an eyebolt on the side of the hull.  The other end was lashed to a bullseye. I had to make up another batch of cherry bullseyes on my mini lathe (see previous post). I seized a .012 tan lanyard to the bullseye and wound it to the bullseyes lashed to the bowsprit.
 
Another tedious endeavor.  The Bowsprit/jib is a very complicated place with ropes and lines going in every direction.  The good news is that I believe I have completed all of the rigging up front and as far as I can tell, no line is rubbing up against its neighbor.

BOWSPRIT SHROUDS
 
Just a quick update as I go through the plans and pick up some things that I misses at the bow. I installed the bowsprit shrouds.  I used a .025 black rope with a blackened black hook seized to one end and hooked to an eyebolt on the side of the hull.  The other end was lashed to a bullseye. I had to make up another batch of cherry bullseyes on my mini lathe (see previous post). I seized a .012 tan lanyard to the bullseye and wound it to the bullseyes lashed to the bowsprit.
 
Another tedious endeavor.  The Bowsprit/jib is a very complicated place with ropes and lines going in every direction.  The good news is that I believe I have completed all of the rigging up front and as far as I can tell, no line is rubbing up against its neighbor.

BELAYING FOREMAST STAYS AND RUNNING RIGGING
 
With the course yard in place, it was time to finally time to “tie up some loose ends” – actually, a lot of loose ends.
On the Foremast Back Stays, from top to bottom:
 
1.      Royal Back Stay – Seized to top of the mast and belayed to a tackle hooked to waterway eyebolt.
 
2.      Top Gallant Backstay – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
3.      Topmast Backstays (2) – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
On the Foremast Running Rigging, from top to bottom:
 
4.      Royal Halliard – belayed to the lower stave
 
5.      Royal Clew Line – tied off at end of the royal yard, left slack, and belayed to the lower stave
 
6.      Royal fixed lift – tied off at top of mast and end of royal yard.
 
7.      Royal Sheets – tied off on end of t’gallant yard, routed through block in shrouds, and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
8.      Top Gallant Tye – wound around t’gallant yard and seized to a tackle attached to lower top.
 
9.      Top Gallant Lift – Tied to end of t’gallant yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to lower stave.
 
 
10.  Top Gallant Clew – Tied to end of t’gallant yard, left slack, routed through block on yard (held with a knot) and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
11.  Top Sail Lift – Tied to end of top sail yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to tackle on lower top.
 
12.  Top Sail Clew Lines – I seized the blocks with the clew lines to the top sail yard, but have not figured out what to
do with them.  Per the plans, they run to blocks lashed to the course yard and back up to the seized block on the top sail yard.
 
On the Bowsprit, all routed through holes in the chock rail and belayed to pins in the forward pin rail
 
13.  Jib Stay Halliard
 
14.  Outer Jib Stay Halliard
 
15.  Inner Jib Stay Halliard
 
16.  Fore Stay Halliard
 
17.  Spritsail Yard Lift
 
18.  Top Gallant Stay Leads
 
 
 
Still to do (or figure out)
 
1.      Top Sail Sheets,
 
2.      Course Sheets.
 
3.      Course Clew lines.
 
I am not sure this is correct.  It is the best I could do in my interpretation of the plans. I have not completely decided to do with the buntlines, reefs, and leechlines – except to eliminate them. By adding the clew lines and sheets, I have at least added some of the running rigging for sails that will not be added to the ship
.
Here is a series of photos that show you where I am at presently.  The steps in this post took a solid 5 days to complete.

BELAYING FOREMAST STAYS AND RUNNING RIGGING
 
With the course yard in place, it was time to finally time to “tie up some loose ends” – actually, a lot of loose ends.
On the Foremast Back Stays, from top to bottom:
 
1.      Royal Back Stay – Seized to top of the mast and belayed to a tackle hooked to waterway eyebolt.
 
2.      Top Gallant Backstay – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
3.      Topmast Backstays (2) – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
On the Foremast Running Rigging, from top to bottom:
 
4.      Royal Halliard – belayed to the lower stave
 
5.      Royal Clew Line – tied off at end of the royal yard, left slack, and belayed to the lower stave
 
6.      Royal fixed lift – tied off at top of mast and end of royal yard.
 
7.      Royal Sheets – tied off on end of t’gallant yard, routed through block in shrouds, and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
8.      Top Gallant Tye – wound around t’gallant yard and seized to a tackle attached to lower top.
 
9.      Top Gallant Lift – Tied to end of t’gallant yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to lower stave.
 
 
10.  Top Gallant Clew – Tied to end of t’gallant yard, left slack, routed through block on yard (held with a knot) and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
11.  Top Sail Lift – Tied to end of top sail yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to tackle on lower top.
 
12.  Top Sail Clew Lines – I seized the blocks with the clew lines to the top sail yard, but have not figured out what to
do with them.  Per the plans, they run to blocks lashed to the course yard and back up to the seized block on the top sail yard.
 
On the Bowsprit, all routed through holes in the chock rail and belayed to pins in the forward pin rail
 
13.  Jib Stay Halliard
 
14.  Outer Jib Stay Halliard
 
15.  Inner Jib Stay Halliard
 
16.  Fore Stay Halliard
 
17.  Spritsail Yard Lift
 
18.  Top Gallant Stay Leads
 
 
 
Still to do (or figure out)
 
1.      Top Sail Sheets,
 
2.      Course Sheets.
 
3.      Course Clew lines.
 
I am not sure this is correct.  It is the best I could do in my interpretation of the plans. I have not completely decided to do with the buntlines, reefs, and leechlines – except to eliminate them. By adding the clew lines and sheets, I have at least added some of the running rigging for sails that will not be added to the ship
.
Here is a series of photos that show you where I am at presently.  The steps in this post took a solid 5 days to complete.

SETTING THE COURSE YARD IN PLACE
 
With the course yard fully dressed, I pinned it in place, and weaved the lanyards for the truss blocks and sling ropes. I used a heavy .018 tan lanyard for the sling.
 
​The truss assembly has a complex combination of a double lashing around the yard, with two 1/8 single blocks, and a single lashing around the mast.
 
l also rigged the course lifts with .018 tan rope.

BELAYING FOREMAST STAYS AND RUNNING RIGGING
 
With the course yard in place, it was time to finally time to “tie up some loose ends” – actually, a lot of loose ends.
On the Foremast Back Stays, from top to bottom:
 
1.      Royal Back Stay – Seized to top of the mast and belayed to a tackle hooked to waterway eyebolt.
 
2.      Top Gallant Backstay – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
3.      Topmast Backstays (2) – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
On the Foremast Running Rigging, from top to bottom:
 
4.      Royal Halliard – belayed to the lower stave
 
5.      Royal Clew Line – tied off at end of the royal yard, left slack, and belayed to the lower stave
 
6.      Royal fixed lift – tied off at top of mast and end of royal yard.
 
7.      Royal Sheets – tied off on end of t’gallant yard, routed through block in shrouds, and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
8.      Top Gallant Tye – wound around t’gallant yard and seized to a tackle attached to lower top.
 
9.      Top Gallant Lift – Tied to end of t’gallant yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to lower stave.
 
 
10.  Top Gallant Clew – Tied to end of t’gallant yard, left slack, routed through block on yard (held with a knot) and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
11.  Top Sail Lift – Tied to end of top sail yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to tackle on lower top.
 
12.  Top Sail Clew Lines – I seized the blocks with the clew lines to the top sail yard, but have not figured out what to
do with them.  Per the plans, they run to blocks lashed to the course yard and back up to the seized block on the top sail yard.
 
On the Bowsprit, all routed through holes in the chock rail and belayed to pins in the forward pin rail
 
13.  Jib Stay Halliard
 
14.  Outer Jib Stay Halliard
 
15.  Inner Jib Stay Halliard
 
16.  Fore Stay Halliard
 
17.  Spritsail Yard Lift
 
18.  Top Gallant Stay Leads
 
 
 
Still to do (or figure out)
 
1.      Top Sail Sheets,
 
2.      Course Sheets.
 
3.      Course Clew lines.
 
I am not sure this is correct.  It is the best I could do in my interpretation of the plans. I have not completely decided to do with the buntlines, reefs, and leechlines – except to eliminate them. By adding the clew lines and sheets, I have at least added some of the running rigging for sails that will not be added to the ship
.
Here is a series of photos that show you where I am at presently.  The steps in this post took a solid 5 days to complete.

Joel,
 
Well said my friend.
 
I have made a number of such changes in routing. Currently, my royal sheets and clews pass through the fairlead on the lower shrouds, through the ratlines, and belay to the pin rail. None of the lines are permanently secured. I pass them through the holes in the pin rail, and secure them by wedging a pin in the hole.  It allows me to undo them, which I have had to do a number of times to eliminate chafing. So far, so good
 
The mighty essence of this ship is beginning to take the stage, and I must say, it is great to behold.
 
I am just about ready to break out the main mast. It is still in pieces and looks totally naked compared to its sister. The thought of doing this herculean task all over again is pretty overwhelming.

BELAYING FOREMAST STAYS AND RUNNING RIGGING
 
With the course yard in place, it was time to finally time to “tie up some loose ends” – actually, a lot of loose ends.
On the Foremast Back Stays, from top to bottom:
 
1.      Royal Back Stay – Seized to top of the mast and belayed to a tackle hooked to waterway eyebolt.
 
2.      Top Gallant Backstay – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
3.      Topmast Backstays (2) – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
On the Foremast Running Rigging, from top to bottom:
 
4.      Royal Halliard – belayed to the lower stave
 
5.      Royal Clew Line – tied off at end of the royal yard, left slack, and belayed to the lower stave
 
6.      Royal fixed lift – tied off at top of mast and end of royal yard.
 
7.      Royal Sheets – tied off on end of t’gallant yard, routed through block in shrouds, and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
8.      Top Gallant Tye – wound around t’gallant yard and seized to a tackle attached to lower top.
 
9.      Top Gallant Lift – Tied to end of t’gallant yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to lower stave.
 
 
10.  Top Gallant Clew – Tied to end of t’gallant yard, left slack, routed through block on yard (held with a knot) and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
11.  Top Sail Lift – Tied to end of top sail yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to tackle on lower top.
 
12.  Top Sail Clew Lines – I seized the blocks with the clew lines to the top sail yard, but have not figured out what to
do with them.  Per the plans, they run to blocks lashed to the course yard and back up to the seized block on the top sail yard.
 
On the Bowsprit, all routed through holes in the chock rail and belayed to pins in the forward pin rail
 
13.  Jib Stay Halliard
 
14.  Outer Jib Stay Halliard
 
15.  Inner Jib Stay Halliard
 
16.  Fore Stay Halliard
 
17.  Spritsail Yard Lift
 
18.  Top Gallant Stay Leads
 
 
 
Still to do (or figure out)
 
1.      Top Sail Sheets,
 
2.      Course Sheets.
 
3.      Course Clew lines.
 
I am not sure this is correct.  It is the best I could do in my interpretation of the plans. I have not completely decided to do with the buntlines, reefs, and leechlines – except to eliminate them. By adding the clew lines and sheets, I have at least added some of the running rigging for sails that will not be added to the ship
.
Here is a series of photos that show you where I am at presently.  The steps in this post took a solid 5 days to complete.

FUTTOCK SHROUDS
For all of the planning, I forgot to install the futtock shrouds before raising the course yard. It was therefore a bit more taxing with the yard always in the way.
 
I used .025 black rope. I seized a blackened brass hook on the end, attached that to the bottom of the deadeye and wound the other end around the stave and lashed it to the shroud. This is not easy. I placed a small drop of CA on the shroud, and held the futtock line in place until it set.  That allowed me to then apply two lashings.
 
Once done, I dressed them up with ratlines.
 
​Once I install the catharpin, another daunting task, it should pull all of the shrouds together and tighten up the lines. It is quite amazing how everything "ties together." Rigging this model has proven the engineering prowess of the 19th century shipwright

SETTING THE COURSE YARD IN PLACE
 
With the course yard fully dressed, I pinned it in place, and weaved the lanyards for the truss blocks and sling ropes. I used a heavy .018 tan lanyard for the sling.
 
​The truss assembly has a complex combination of a double lashing around the yard, with two 1/8 single blocks, and a single lashing around the mast.
 
l also rigged the course lifts with .018 tan rope.

BELAYING FOREMAST STAYS AND RUNNING RIGGING
 
With the course yard in place, it was time to finally time to “tie up some loose ends” – actually, a lot of loose ends.
On the Foremast Back Stays, from top to bottom:
 
1.      Royal Back Stay – Seized to top of the mast and belayed to a tackle hooked to waterway eyebolt.
 
2.      Top Gallant Backstay – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
3.      Topmast Backstays (2) – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
On the Foremast Running Rigging, from top to bottom:
 
4.      Royal Halliard – belayed to the lower stave
 
5.      Royal Clew Line – tied off at end of the royal yard, left slack, and belayed to the lower stave
 
6.      Royal fixed lift – tied off at top of mast and end of royal yard.
 
7.      Royal Sheets – tied off on end of t’gallant yard, routed through block in shrouds, and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
8.      Top Gallant Tye – wound around t’gallant yard and seized to a tackle attached to lower top.
 
9.      Top Gallant Lift – Tied to end of t’gallant yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to lower stave.
 
 
10.  Top Gallant Clew – Tied to end of t’gallant yard, left slack, routed through block on yard (held with a knot) and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
11.  Top Sail Lift – Tied to end of top sail yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to tackle on lower top.
 
12.  Top Sail Clew Lines – I seized the blocks with the clew lines to the top sail yard, but have not figured out what to
do with them.  Per the plans, they run to blocks lashed to the course yard and back up to the seized block on the top sail yard.
 
On the Bowsprit, all routed through holes in the chock rail and belayed to pins in the forward pin rail
 
13.  Jib Stay Halliard
 
14.  Outer Jib Stay Halliard
 
15.  Inner Jib Stay Halliard
 
16.  Fore Stay Halliard
 
17.  Spritsail Yard Lift
 
18.  Top Gallant Stay Leads
 
 
 
Still to do (or figure out)
 
1.      Top Sail Sheets,
 
2.      Course Sheets.
 
3.      Course Clew lines.
 
I am not sure this is correct.  It is the best I could do in my interpretation of the plans. I have not completely decided to do with the buntlines, reefs, and leechlines – except to eliminate them. By adding the clew lines and sheets, I have at least added some of the running rigging for sails that will not be added to the ship
.
Here is a series of photos that show you where I am at presently.  The steps in this post took a solid 5 days to complete.

I agree with Mark. On my brig, I found it very useful to hang all of the yards, attach all of the upper shrouds, seize every block I could think of, run every running rigging line reasonable (lifts, clews etc) BEFORE I stepped the masts. I left the course yard off figuring it would be in the way when I rigged the lower shrouds that had to be done after the mast was stepped.
 
Rule of thumb. Better to work sitting down with the mast on your bench than standing hunched over a fragile ship and reaching into a maize of rope and spars.

I turn all of my yards from square stock on a mini lathe. I use a spindle steady rest for those very thin and fragile yards to keep them from wobbling/breaking.
 
Anything that can't be put in the lathe is done as Jan suggests, by hand with a file, mini block plane, or sanding stick.

Jerry,
 
Very good advice. I have not glued anything yet, and if I do any gluing, I will use a diluted white glue that can easily be undone.  Your suggestion of not gluing anything may be better yet.
 
I read somewhere on this forum (please forgive me since I can't remember where) that you should pass the lines through the pin rail holes and then insert the pins to wedge the lines in place, then wrap around.  That is a GREAT idea. I wish I could take credit for that. It has made the process of tieing those lines tight very manageable. 
 
Gary Owen

COURSE YARDS
 
Now that I have completed the foremast shrouds with sheaves, fairleads and ratlines, and did about as much running rigging as I could, it was time to mount the course yard.  Before I did that, I had to dress up the bare spar.
 
On all of the yards that have jackstays and foot ropes, it is advisable to seize all of the blocks, slings, braces etc BEFORE you do the jackstays and foot ropes.  That way, all of the blocks can be stropped in a vice with oversized loops that can be simply slipped over the yard and tightened. If you add the jactstays or foot ropes, you will have to slip the seizing rope between the lines and the yard and tie and stropping loop on the yard instead of the vice.
 
The yard is now ready to mount.
 
I now face a daunting decision.  How much running rigging do I want to add to a ship WITHOUT any sails. I have attached all of the blocks as per the plans, and possibly could run buntlines, sheets, clew lines, etc, but have no sails to attach the lines to.  I understand that I could just tie off the ends to the yards and such, but wonder just how much detail I need to add to the ship.
 
For now, I have decided to rig clew lines and some of the sheets (course and topsail), tying the ends to the yards (instead of to sails that are not present). No buntlines.
 
Does this make any sense?  Any suggestions?

I turn all of my yards from square stock on a mini lathe. I use a spindle steady rest for those very thin and fragile yards to keep them from wobbling/breaking.
 
Anything that can't be put in the lathe is done as Jan suggests, by hand with a file, mini block plane, or sanding stick.

Greetings Mike,
 
Welcome to the world of rope maizes and protruding spars. Your ship looks awesome, and as you hang your rigging, it is going to look better and better.
 
As for serving, I opted to serve the entire main and preventer stays (the largest diametered rigging in all ships). I served the entire forward lower shroud line - that being the one that the course yard might rub against. I served all of the throat collars (2 inches) of the remaining lower shroud lines (where it winds around the mast). That was it.  Just a suggestion.
 
That decision was based on some research but mostly from suggestions lifted from other build logs. I may have spent as much time trying to decide what to serve as I did serving the lines.
 
Since I am only a bit ahead on this same journey, together I think we can conquer all of the hurdles that rigging a 19th century sailing vessel will create. 

Mike,
 
Here are some photos of the vice set up I used for the deadeyes.  The official term for the steel clamp from my fly-tying days is a hackle plier. I use it to clamp the deadeye in place after measuring the line with the jig and then simply insert it all into the spring clamp as per the photo. Makes for a quick and secure base upon which to seize the deadeye in place.
 
The extended spring clamp in the vice gives me the ability to get it in close to the ship to reach the shroud.
 
Happy rigging!

I agree with Mark. On my brig, I found it very useful to hang all of the yards, attach all of the upper shrouds, seize every block I could think of, run every running rigging line reasonable (lifts, clews etc) BEFORE I stepped the masts. I left the course yard off figuring it would be in the way when I rigged the lower shrouds that had to be done after the mast was stepped.
 
Rule of thumb. Better to work sitting down with the mast on your bench than standing hunched over a fragile ship and reaching into a maize of rope and spars.

I agree with Mark. On my brig, I found it very useful to hang all of the yards, attach all of the upper shrouds, seize every block I could think of, run every running rigging line reasonable (lifts, clews etc) BEFORE I stepped the masts. I left the course yard off figuring it would be in the way when I rigged the lower shrouds that had to be done after the mast was stepped.
 
Rule of thumb. Better to work sitting down with the mast on your bench than standing hunched over a fragile ship and reaching into a maize of rope and spars.