6ohiocav

Carronade Rigging
 
I finally started rigging the guns. And as soon as I started, I ran into a problem. The kit calls for a .31 breech line, but does not supply it.  The closest is a .28 black and a .28 buff, at least according to the parts list.  When I looked at the rope provided, I can't really tell what is what. In any case, the largest buff rope looks too small to me.
 
So, I took a trip to the craft store and picked up a role of what I thought was a buff colored rope that appeared to be the proper diameter.  When I got it home, I tried it out.  I siezed a ring on one end, fished the other end through the rings and the back of the barrel, and siezed the other ring.  With rings tied on "off the ship", I twisted some .28 gage black wire around each ring and glued it into the previously drilled holes in the bulwarks.
 
I decided to have the barrels brought out "some." I then rigged the blocks.
 
As I look at the first gun, I am not sure I like the breech line.  It looks to "white." So, I decided to stop and it would appear that I will be ordering some more rope. I decide to glue down the carriages on the starboard side and rigged the blocks on those. I very much like the Syren 3mm blocks.  They look very authentic. What a difference from the square shaped ones in the kit.
 
Here are some photos. Opinions are welcome.

Carronade Rigging
 
I finally started rigging the guns. And as soon as I started, I ran into a problem. The kit calls for a .31 breech line, but does not supply it.  The closest is a .28 black and a .28 buff, at least according to the parts list.  When I looked at the rope provided, I can't really tell what is what. In any case, the largest buff rope looks too small to me.
 
So, I took a trip to the craft store and picked up a role of what I thought was a buff colored rope that appeared to be the proper diameter.  When I got it home, I tried it out.  I siezed a ring on one end, fished the other end through the rings and the back of the barrel, and siezed the other ring.  With rings tied on "off the ship", I twisted some .28 gage black wire around each ring and glued it into the previously drilled holes in the bulwarks.
 
I decided to have the barrels brought out "some." I then rigged the blocks.
 
As I look at the first gun, I am not sure I like the breech line.  It looks to "white." So, I decided to stop and it would appear that I will be ordering some more rope. I decide to glue down the carriages on the starboard side and rigged the blocks on those. I very much like the Syren 3mm blocks.  They look very authentic. What a difference from the square shaped ones in the kit.
 
Here are some photos. Opinions are welcome.

It is tough to see from the picture, but the plywood base is the same thickness as what the plans call for the deck planking. I have only raised my deck by the thickness of the veneer. The cherry strips are about the width of a piece of construction paper.
 
Joel's point though is a very good one. When I started this build in 2012, there was a flurry of posts from Niagara builders warning all of us about the height of the gun ports, and that was for those building the deck pursuant to the plans. We were all advised to think about adding some length to the bulwarks and construct one of the carronades early on and make sure that they fit. I urge all Niagara builders to follow Joel's suggestion and check this measurement regardless of how you make your deck.
 
Early on, I decided to glue a 1/8th piece of stripwood to the top of my bulwarks and then cut away the scrap in between, thus extending the bulwarks by 1/8". I found one of my old pictures that shows that. With that additional height, my raised deck will allow enough clearance for the guns. I always worried that raising the bulwarks would screw something else up, but fortunately that has not happened .... YET
 
Another saving tip from this incredible forum. I would have never in a million years come up with that one. I could not do this project without all of you.
 
Of course the proof will be in the pudding when I start mounting the guns tomorrow.

Love the anchors and the rigging.  I AM also waiting to hear how the hell to drill the hole for the anchor cable. THAT JUST PLAIN SCARES ME.

Love the anchors and the rigging.  I AM also waiting to hear how the hell to drill the hole for the anchor cable. THAT JUST PLAIN SCARES ME.

It is tough to see from the picture, but the plywood base is the same thickness as what the plans call for the deck planking. I have only raised my deck by the thickness of the veneer. The cherry strips are about the width of a piece of construction paper.
 
Joel's point though is a very good one. When I started this build in 2012, there was a flurry of posts from Niagara builders warning all of us about the height of the gun ports, and that was for those building the deck pursuant to the plans. We were all advised to think about adding some length to the bulwarks and construct one of the carronades early on and make sure that they fit. I urge all Niagara builders to follow Joel's suggestion and check this measurement regardless of how you make your deck.
 
Early on, I decided to glue a 1/8th piece of stripwood to the top of my bulwarks and then cut away the scrap in between, thus extending the bulwarks by 1/8". I found one of my old pictures that shows that. With that additional height, my raised deck will allow enough clearance for the guns. I always worried that raising the bulwarks would screw something else up, but fortunately that has not happened .... YET
 
Another saving tip from this incredible forum. I would have never in a million years come up with that one. I could not do this project without all of you.
 
Of course the proof will be in the pudding when I start mounting the guns tomorrow.

It is tough to see from the picture, but the plywood base is the same thickness as what the plans call for the deck planking. I have only raised my deck by the thickness of the veneer. The cherry strips are about the width of a piece of construction paper.
 
Joel's point though is a very good one. When I started this build in 2012, there was a flurry of posts from Niagara builders warning all of us about the height of the gun ports, and that was for those building the deck pursuant to the plans. We were all advised to think about adding some length to the bulwarks and construct one of the carronades early on and make sure that they fit. I urge all Niagara builders to follow Joel's suggestion and check this measurement regardless of how you make your deck.
 
Early on, I decided to glue a 1/8th piece of stripwood to the top of my bulwarks and then cut away the scrap in between, thus extending the bulwarks by 1/8". I found one of my old pictures that shows that. With that additional height, my raised deck will allow enough clearance for the guns. I always worried that raising the bulwarks would screw something else up, but fortunately that has not happened .... YET
 
Another saving tip from this incredible forum. I would have never in a million years come up with that one. I could not do this project without all of you.
 
Of course the proof will be in the pudding when I start mounting the guns tomorrow.

It is tough to see from the picture, but the plywood base is the same thickness as what the plans call for the deck planking. I have only raised my deck by the thickness of the veneer. The cherry strips are about the width of a piece of construction paper.
 
Joel's point though is a very good one. When I started this build in 2012, there was a flurry of posts from Niagara builders warning all of us about the height of the gun ports, and that was for those building the deck pursuant to the plans. We were all advised to think about adding some length to the bulwarks and construct one of the carronades early on and make sure that they fit. I urge all Niagara builders to follow Joel's suggestion and check this measurement regardless of how you make your deck.
 
Early on, I decided to glue a 1/8th piece of stripwood to the top of my bulwarks and then cut away the scrap in between, thus extending the bulwarks by 1/8". I found one of my old pictures that shows that. With that additional height, my raised deck will allow enough clearance for the guns. I always worried that raising the bulwarks would screw something else up, but fortunately that has not happened .... YET
 
Another saving tip from this incredible forum. I would have never in a million years come up with that one. I could not do this project without all of you.
 
Of course the proof will be in the pudding when I start mounting the guns tomorrow.

I knocked out another 75 blocks.  I ran out of my gun rigging rope (20 yards gone), and have ordered some more.  I have enough material at this time to rig 15 carronades. Before I turned in last night, I decided to finally glue the deck down and will start applying eye bolts, cleats and such, and once done, start installing the guns.
 
It has been over a month since I have actually done anything with the hull. I have a huge inventory of parts, deck furniture, masts, yards, and such just waiting to be installed.  Things should start picking up from here.

I knocked out another 75 blocks.  I ran out of my gun rigging rope (20 yards gone), and have ordered some more.  I have enough material at this time to rig 15 carronades. Before I turned in last night, I decided to finally glue the deck down and will start applying eye bolts, cleats and such, and once done, start installing the guns.
 
It has been over a month since I have actually done anything with the hull. I have a huge inventory of parts, deck furniture, masts, yards, and such just waiting to be installed.  Things should start picking up from here.

I knocked out another 75 blocks.  I ran out of my gun rigging rope (20 yards gone), and have ordered some more.  I have enough material at this time to rig 15 carronades. Before I turned in last night, I decided to finally glue the deck down and will start applying eye bolts, cleats and such, and once done, start installing the guns.
 
It has been over a month since I have actually done anything with the hull. I have a huge inventory of parts, deck furniture, masts, yards, and such just waiting to be installed.  Things should start picking up from here.

Ditto Jon's post. Hail to the Master!
 
I have not seen that many photos, but I just marvel at your brass work. This skylight railing is beyond amazing. I absolutely envy what you turn out on your mini engine lathe.  You are an inspiration to us journeymen builders.

Ditto Jon's post. Hail to the Master!
 
I have not seen that many photos, but I just marvel at your brass work. This skylight railing is beyond amazing. I absolutely envy what you turn out on your mini engine lathe.  You are an inspiration to us journeymen builders.

This looks great. It reminds me that I still have to make the knee and fit that in somehow. I will be definitely following your lead on the rigging.

Eric,
 
Here is a link to a Naval Ship modeling museum here in Canton Ohio. Larry Pulka is the ship builder and curator.  He builds scratch model masterpieces in bone.  He secures his material from local butcher shops. I am sure if you contacted him, he may be of some help to you.
 
By the way, if anyone is in the area, this is worth the trip.  His work is spectacular.
 
http://www.modelshipsbylarrypulka.com/index.html

Don,
 
Agree with all of the members.  If you were to paint anything, I might consider painting the under surface a darker color over the white.  It may mask some of the gaps. Just a thought.

Eric,
 
Here is a link to a Naval Ship modeling museum here in Canton Ohio. Larry Pulka is the ship builder and curator.  He builds scratch model masterpieces in bone.  He secures his material from local butcher shops. I am sure if you contacted him, he may be of some help to you.
 
By the way, if anyone is in the area, this is worth the trip.  His work is spectacular.
 
http://www.modelshipsbylarrypulka.com/index.html

Don,
 
Agree with all of the members.  If you were to paint anything, I might consider painting the under surface a darker color over the white.  It may mask some of the gaps. Just a thought.

Spent 4 hours on the build and only stropped 35 more blocks.  Not yet half way, and no end in sight. I can't even imagine what it would take to rig the guns for a ship of the line, proving the exigency of dummy guns below deck.
 
If and when I ever finish this daunting task, I will have to finally get around to gluing my deck to the hull.  I have been avoiding that for no reason other than fear that I have somehow missed something. Then it will be time to mount the carronades and start rigging.
 
​Question for the Forum
 
​What is the best way to secure the carronades (and my 2 - 12 pound long guns) to the deck?  The front of the sleds have a pin that bolts to the deck inside the gun port and I was planning on gluing them there. When I figure out how far the guns will be deployed, I was planning on gluing the slides to the sled. Does that sound reasonable.  Should I also glue the back wheels down? How about the long guns? Just glue the wheels down?
 
Thanks all.

Spent 4 hours on the build and only stropped 35 more blocks.  Not yet half way, and no end in sight. I can't even imagine what it would take to rig the guns for a ship of the line, proving the exigency of dummy guns below deck.
 
If and when I ever finish this daunting task, I will have to finally get around to gluing my deck to the hull.  I have been avoiding that for no reason other than fear that I have somehow missed something. Then it will be time to mount the carronades and start rigging.
 
​Question for the Forum
 
​What is the best way to secure the carronades (and my 2 - 12 pound long guns) to the deck?  The front of the sleds have a pin that bolts to the deck inside the gun port and I was planning on gluing them there. When I figure out how far the guns will be deployed, I was planning on gluing the slides to the sled. Does that sound reasonable.  Should I also glue the back wheels down? How about the long guns? Just glue the wheels down?
 
Thanks all.

Mike.
 
I tried all kinds of methods to do this. I first tried to tie them myself.  It was difficult. Actually, Brian's method  was better than anything I tried. In the end, I went back to the pre-made seizings.
 
I make them by wrapping thread around a small straight pin and soaking with super thin CA. I then cut the tube into small sections, around 1 mm. I am using .008 Syren brown rope for my gun tackles. I freeze the end with CA and cut the end at a 45 degree angle. Threading through the seizing is a challenge. Holding the tube with the tweezers, I first thread one end. The end is like a tooth pick because of the CA.  It goes in easily.  Getting it back through is the hard part. I now switch hands and take the seizing in my fingers and use the tweezers to grip the end of the rope. The key is to insert the CA end into the tube enough to get it started.  Sometimes, you can simply thread it right through.  Most of the time, however, I found that by holding the seizing with a pinch of my thumb and forefinger, I can gently pull the long end of rope with my middle and forth fingers and at the same time, push the CA end with the tweezers. With both movements, it actually works. I then add a drop of yellow glue to the end as I pull the rope through to make a small loop. All of the blocks in the picture were done this way.
 
This is tedious, but it is clearly easier than wrapping each seizing individually - at least for me. Also, using the straight pin makes the seizings small enough to make the finished product look good.  They look better that the tied seizings I did.  It also takes at least half the time.

Mike.
 
I tried all kinds of methods to do this. I first tried to tie them myself.  It was difficult. Actually, Brian's method  was better than anything I tried. In the end, I went back to the pre-made seizings.
 
I make them by wrapping thread around a small straight pin and soaking with super thin CA. I then cut the tube into small sections, around 1 mm. I am using .008 Syren brown rope for my gun tackles. I freeze the end with CA and cut the end at a 45 degree angle. Threading through the seizing is a challenge. Holding the tube with the tweezers, I first thread one end. The end is like a tooth pick because of the CA.  It goes in easily.  Getting it back through is the hard part. I now switch hands and take the seizing in my fingers and use the tweezers to grip the end of the rope. The key is to insert the CA end into the tube enough to get it started.  Sometimes, you can simply thread it right through.  Most of the time, however, I found that by holding the seizing with a pinch of my thumb and forefinger, I can gently pull the long end of rope with my middle and forth fingers and at the same time, push the CA end with the tweezers. With both movements, it actually works. I then add a drop of yellow glue to the end as I pull the rope through to make a small loop. All of the blocks in the picture were done this way.
 
This is tedious, but it is clearly easier than wrapping each seizing individually - at least for me. Also, using the straight pin makes the seizings small enough to make the finished product look good.  They look better that the tied seizings I did.  It also takes at least half the time.

More Gun Tackles
 
I cranked out 50 stropped blocks. Had a lot of rain today so I could get after this new challenge.  About 1/4 done.
 
 

Ditto Jon's post. Hail to the Master!
 
I have not seen that many photos, but I just marvel at your brass work. This skylight railing is beyond amazing. I absolutely envy what you turn out on your mini engine lathe.  You are an inspiration to us journeymen builders.

Ditto Jon's post. Hail to the Master!
 
I have not seen that many photos, but I just marvel at your brass work. This skylight railing is beyond amazing. I absolutely envy what you turn out on your mini engine lathe.  You are an inspiration to us journeymen builders.