Ray1981
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Ray1981 got a reaction from mtaylor in Painting with brushes
I used on my bounty a wash from simple paint on water base.
I painted the deck with a light sanndy brown color and covered that witha gloss finish so it is smooth to let the wash flow. when it is dry you could use a dark brown paint (water paint like they use for children on school). I used random strokes and had all over the place uneven paint. Whe it was dry I took a cloth and made it a bit wet and startedto brush the paint with the wet cloth totake of some paint. When I got what I like i let it dry and appkied a flat finish.
This method is safe because you covered you base color the sand brown with a finish if you dont like your wash you can clean it with a wet clothand do it over again. I dont have pictures here but I thought I posted a video of this somewhere.
Dry brushing would be also a good topic to search on btw.
I hope this helps you a bit
Gryz Ray
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Ray1981 reacted to slow2cool in Weathering a copper hull
Ray
I also have never done any weathering.
Like Pete said hope you post how you do it and results
Joe
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Ray1981 reacted to PeterJohn in Painting with brushes
Hi again Ray,
I've only been using brushes myself, and acrylics. I've had good luck, making sure to lightly sand and prime the surfaces first. No problem, even with large surfaces, using large brushes and long strokes. My only problem is how to make the darn thing look weathered (still researching that topic). I'll look at that link cwboland has. Maybe something there. Thanks cw!
Good luck,
Pete
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Ray1981 reacted to PeterJohn in Weathering a copper hull
Hi Ray,
I'm kinda new to the plastic sailing ship hobby. I just started my third, an old 1:96 scale model of the Cutty Sark, and painting the hulls with flat acrylics. But the thing is just looking too new!. I want to go for an aged, weathered look. There has to be a simple way, but I can't find whole lot of info about it.
Will you post the results you got with the weathering powders, and how you did it?
Thanks. Good luck with your build!
Pete
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Ray1981 reacted to kurtvd19 in Masking Problem
Mike:
You are on the right track - always cover the lighter color with the darker color. When you have a ridge between colors try dragging the smooth top side of your fingernail over the ridge along the length of the ridge as soon as the tape is removed - always try to remove the tape as soon as possible. The paint must be dry to the touch but do it ASAP. I use acrylics and can unmask the edge within 5 minutes and then use the fingernail trick. Don't keep doing it as you might rub some paint off - once is enough - don't be afraid of using a bit of pressure. The nature of acrylics is to "lay down tighter" as they dry so the fingernail is just helping the process along. Acrylics can look a bit thick when first applied but they lay down soon.
Hope this helps,
Kurt
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Ray1981 got a reaction from thibaultron in Masking Problem
I dont know exactly what you did before but I think it makes sense this unfortunate result because the apply another layer of paint over an existing layer. I think you painted everything sand brouwn after that the red gunports and than sand brown again. So the gunports have less paint layers as the rest of the area.
I would try to mask the gunports and paint the rest in sand brown give it a good time to dry and then mask the sand brown and paint the gunports red. I think that would give a better result.
But I'm a novice there are maybe easier ways to try to avoid your problem. Anyhow I hope I could help you a tiny bit
Grtz Ray
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Ray1981 got a reaction from mtaylor in Masking Problem
I dont know exactly what you did before but I think it makes sense this unfortunate result because the apply another layer of paint over an existing layer. I think you painted everything sand brouwn after that the red gunports and than sand brown again. So the gunports have less paint layers as the rest of the area.
I would try to mask the gunports and paint the rest in sand brown give it a good time to dry and then mask the sand brown and paint the gunports red. I think that would give a better result.
But I'm a novice there are maybe easier ways to try to avoid your problem. Anyhow I hope I could help you a tiny bit
Grtz Ray
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Ray1981 reacted to allanyed in Masking Problem
I have sprayed or brushed a clear coat over the tape edge allowing it to seep under the tap and then let it dry, before painting. The clear coat seals the edge of the tape so paint will not seep in. Of course the tape should be tight to the wood to start, but the clear finishes the sealing. Just be sure it is the same clear you will be using on the finishing of the unpainted wood, be it flat, semi gloss or gloss.Multiple layers of paint are thus not needed and no lifted edge problem.
Allan
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Ray1981 reacted to mikiek in Tool for Shaping Brass Strip
Sounds like just the ticket John. Beautiful metalwork! Thanks for sharing.
The other thing that has caught my eye is something they call a forming bezel. They come in various shapes - round, square, triangle.
I've found both the pliers and the bezels on Amazon.
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Ray1981 reacted to Landlocked123 in Tool for Shaping Brass Strip
I just give it a light going over with the steel brush wheel I'm my Dremel
Best,
John
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Ray1981 reacted to vaddoc in Tool for Shaping Brass Strip
How do you keep the brass shiny? doesn't it get discoloured with heating?
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Ray1981 reacted to Landlocked123 in Tool for Shaping Brass Strip
Mike,
I strongly suggest you invest in a pair of quality parallel grip pliers with straight (not tapered) sides. For the brass work below, I annealed the brass as Mark suggested, scored the strip where I wanted the bend, inserted into the plier at 90* to the side, bent, and gave it a small tap with a hammer.
I seem to recall that you can find the pliers for about $20. I use them constantly when working with metal.
Best,
John
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Ray1981 reacted to mikiek in Tool for Shaping Brass Strip
This is just my sheer ignorance in the metal work world. I was bending some 1/16" brass strip into a U shape, or more accurately a 3 sided square. In this application each side was about 1/8". I was using a needlenose plier and a small hammer to try to get decent 90 degree bends. The result was fair but could have been better.
So what I am wondering is if there are some type of shaping forms that I can use to hammer brass strips on. Some square rods, circular, and maybe even triangular - probably a set with various sizes. I have plenty of brass rods & tubes but I doubt beating brass on brass is going to work.
I'm sure there is something out there but I don't know what to look for. Let me know how you guys do it.
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Ray1981 reacted to mtaylor in Tool for Shaping Brass Strip
Mike,
Anneal the brass first. Heat to red hot and let cool. It'll soften it and make it easier to bend. As for forms.. check around places like Amazon for small anvils. For a cheaper method, check around Home Depot and Lowe's in the hardware department. They sell steel stock that might be usable.
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Ray1981 reacted to mikiek in Masking Problem
It was time to paint the bulwarks on Niagara. I had painted the port side once before and had a nightmare of a time with paint seeping under my masking tape (Tamiya). Given that the paint I had saved had dried up and matching colors would be tough, I decided to repaint the port side with newly mixed acrylic paint so it would match up with the starboard.
I also learned here about painting over the tape edges with the color you are trying to protect and I did that this time. Then on with the airbrush painting. The masking did a pretty good job this time, although it created a new problem. With 3 coats of primer and 2 coats of color the tape left a raised edge when I pulled it off.
So 2 questions.
1. Is this preventable?
2. How to deal with the problem. I'm trying to hand paint those spots, building up more paint inside the edges - this doesn't seem to be helping. Next, do I consider sanding the edge?
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Trim in How to start with wooden model kits
I downloaded the instructions on the Glad Tidings although this boat is a little less appealing I think I really would enjoying building this kit. And I would learn a lot and it seems complicated enough to me. I can imagine now how overwhelmed I woul be if I purchase the kit I mentioned. So Ithink the Glad Tidings is a good suggestion to start and see how far I come.
Thanks for the advises it is much appreciated!!!
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in How to start with wooden model kits
Thanks everybody for all the responses I got a lot of good info from all you guys.
Grtz Ray
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in How to start with wooden model kits
I downloaded the instructions on the Glad Tidings although this boat is a little less appealing I think I really would enjoying building this kit. And I would learn a lot and it seems complicated enough to me. I can imagine now how overwhelmed I woul be if I purchase the kit I mentioned. So Ithink the Glad Tidings is a good suggestion to start and see how far I come.
Thanks for the advises it is much appreciated!!!
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in How to start with wooden model kits
I will do a search on that ship thanks Alde
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in How to start with wooden model kits
I get your point and will search for a other one. I saw the Syren from model shipways. About this kit is a lot info here on the forumand the rest of the WWW. But it has two masts.
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in How to start with wooden model kits
Thanks guys, so maybe I should search fore a more easy one although I like the rigging work on my previous model but Ill keep that in mind. Suggestions for a nice kit from the period time are welcome.
And Mark is right yes this forum is our biggest tool.
i wasnt planning to cut my beard either lol
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in How to start with wooden model kits
Markjay,
Thanks for your comment too, but razor blades I dont get hahaha. Would you explain that to me?
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Ray1981 got a reaction from Canute in How to start with wooden model kits
so a kit like i posted would be possible with some viles, rasps, wood glue, clamps, nails etc? How does a kit look like when you open the box. Parts are pre sawed (this looks to me like weird english sorry)? And paint could I use my Model Masters Acrylic paints without a problem?
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Ray1981 got a reaction from mtaylor in How to start with wooden model kits
Thanks everybody for all the responses I got a lot of good info from all you guys.
Grtz Ray
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Ray1981 reacted to PeteGee in Dummy's Guide to Rigging
One of the best reference books I have come across is Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever. It is very complete...it is somewhat like the old Bluejackets Manual for new sailor in the US. Lever starts with the ropes, then the knots, then on to rigging and the like. If you stick with it long enough and build a ship big enough, you will even be able to learn how to sail your ship to the US. : - )
Seriously, it is very good and there is a very good dictionary of nautical terms at the very end. I recommend that you stay on board and continue building by going slowly, checking out every little piece of the puzzle (or model) as you go. As mentioned above, this is the place to be for encouragement and assistance. We were all where you are at one point or another.
PeteGee
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