bartley

The Wales are now installed and sanded back for and aft as recommended by Chuck.:

When the hull is inverted and the build board removed it looks like this:

The removal of the frames was quite straightforward . However there is way too much seepage of glue into the interior of the hull .  This is the first time I have used CA to fix the planks. I clearly overdid it.  I was a little unsure about the faring and wanted to ensure that the planks were secure. I needn't have worried as the fit was pretty good in fact.
 

The cap rails were then installed leaving plenty of meat on either side for sanding to shape:
 

 
Next the bolsters at the bow were fabricated and fitted.  A tricky little job this one.  Chuck provides six blanks and I used five to get two satisfactory  ones:
 

The next task is to fair the inside and narrow down the cap rails significantly.
 
John
 

Fabricating the Mast
The mast is turned from square stock which is first planed to an octagon using a 7:10:7 template provided by Chuck
 


 

 

Yo can see that in this last shop a little more planing is required but I feel this is not critical.  However it does help with the subsequent turning if the blank is symmetrical..
 
I use a home-built lathe to do the turning.  This is not just to save a few dollars but believ that my version addresses some of the deficiencies I found using The Proxxon 250 owned by a colleague.  These are:
 
1. even the slowest speed is two fast.
 
2.  There is no steady support provded
 
3. Although this deficiency is claimed to be addressed by the hollow chuck, I found that specially for narrow spars, this caused a "whipping" which often shattered the spar motion which often shattered the spar.
 
So in my version I use a variable speed electric drill and two moveable  platforms.    These align with the drill chuck and have a roller-skate bearing mounted in the center.
 
If the spar is hexagonal or smaller diameter than the bearings, then wooden inserts are fitted.
 
 

 

 
After  here is the result after completing the turning
 
 

 
And then after painting steel bands are simulated with black tape an eyebolds added as detailed in the plans

 
John
 
 
 
 
 
 

Fabricating the Mast
The mast is turned from square stock which is first planed to an octagon using a 7:10:7 template provided by Chuck
 


 

 

Yo can see that in this last shop a little more planing is required but I feel this is not critical.  However it does help with the subsequent turning if the blank is symmetrical..
 
I use a home-built lathe to do the turning.  This is not just to save a few dollars but believ that my version addresses some of the deficiencies I found using The Proxxon 250 owned by a colleague.  These are:
 
1. even the slowest speed is two fast.
 
2.  There is no steady support provded
 
3. Although this deficiency is claimed to be addressed by the hollow chuck, I found that specially for narrow spars, this caused a "whipping" which often shattered the spar motion which often shattered the spar.
 
So in my version I use a variable speed electric drill and two moveable  platforms.    These align with the drill chuck and have a roller-skate bearing mounted in the center.
 
If the spar is hexagonal or smaller diameter than the bearings, then wooden inserts are fitted.
 
 

 

 
After  here is the result after completing the turning
 
 

 
And then after painting steel bands are simulated with black tape an eyebolds added as detailed in the plans

 
John
 
 
 
 
 
 

I'd be interested is how they work.   I've also smoothed out the wrinkles with a weight bristle brush.  On first impression, the sponge may not be stiff enough smooth out the wrinkles.  I think that these are intended to apply glue etc.  If they work for you that's great.
 
Tom
  

Fabricating the Mast
The mast is turned from square stock which is first planed to an octagon using a 7:10:7 template provided by Chuck
 


 

 

Yo can see that in this last shop a little more planing is required but I feel this is not critical.  However it does help with the subsequent turning if the blank is symmetrical..
 
I use a home-built lathe to do the turning.  This is not just to save a few dollars but believ that my version addresses some of the deficiencies I found using The Proxxon 250 owned by a colleague.  These are:
 
1. even the slowest speed is two fast.
 
2.  There is no steady support provded
 
3. Although this deficiency is claimed to be addressed by the hollow chuck, I found that specially for narrow spars, this caused a "whipping" which often shattered the spar motion which often shattered the spar.
 
So in my version I use a variable speed electric drill and two moveable  platforms.    These align with the drill chuck and have a roller-skate bearing mounted in the center.
 
If the spar is hexagonal or smaller diameter than the bearings, then wooden inserts are fitted.
 
 

 

 
After  here is the result after completing the turning
 
 

 
And then after painting steel bands are simulated with black tape an eyebolds added as detailed in the plans

 
John
 
 
 
 
 
 

Fabricating the Mast
The mast is turned from square stock which is first planed to an octagon using a 7:10:7 template provided by Chuck
 


 

 

Yo can see that in this last shop a little more planing is required but I feel this is not critical.  However it does help with the subsequent turning if the blank is symmetrical..
 
I use a home-built lathe to do the turning.  This is not just to save a few dollars but believ that my version addresses some of the deficiencies I found using The Proxxon 250 owned by a colleague.  These are:
 
1. even the slowest speed is two fast.
 
2.  There is no steady support provded
 
3. Although this deficiency is claimed to be addressed by the hollow chuck, I found that specially for narrow spars, this caused a "whipping" which often shattered the spar motion which often shattered the spar.
 
So in my version I use a variable speed electric drill and two moveable  platforms.    These align with the drill chuck and have a roller-skate bearing mounted in the center.
 
If the spar is hexagonal or smaller diameter than the bearings, then wooden inserts are fitted.
 
 

 

 
After  here is the result after completing the turning
 
 

 
And then after painting steel bands are simulated with black tape an eyebolds added as detailed in the plans

 
John
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thole Pins
 
This was quite a laborious task - 32 identical pins required.  I made at least 40. I turned them using my Proxxon rotary tool to a little less than 1mm:

and them painted them red before installing so that I did not over paint the cap rail

 
I.also found them more tricky to install than you might expect  since the slightest impact would break them off. I used this jig to ensure that the spacing an height of each pair was identical  
 

 
 
I finally managed to get 32 in place and I am hoping that I don't break a few more off during rigging!
 

John

BE,
This rigged version is also in the NMM
 

and as you suspect it shows the deadeye straps mounted on the wales.
 
Regards,
 
John
 
 
 

Thole Pins
 
This was quite a laborious task - 32 identical pins required.  I made at least 40. I turned them using my Proxxon rotary tool to a little less than 1mm:

and them painted them red before installing so that I did not over paint the cap rail

 
I.also found them more tricky to install than you might expect  since the slightest impact would break them off. I used this jig to ensure that the spacing an height of each pair was identical  
 

 
 
I finally managed to get 32 in place and I am hoping that I don't break a few more off during rigging!
 

John

Thole Pins
 
This was quite a laborious task - 32 identical pins required.  I made at least 40. I turned them using my Proxxon rotary tool to a little less than 1mm:

and them painted them red before installing so that I did not over paint the cap rail

 
I.also found them more tricky to install than you might expect  since the slightest impact would break them off. I used this jig to ensure that the spacing an height of each pair was identical  
 

 
 
I finally managed to get 32 in place and I am hoping that I don't break a few more off during rigging!
 

John

Yes I see what you mean now, BE,  The whole issue of the must is hard to fathom.  Its too big to carry on the lonboat.  It must have been held on the sister ship only only installed if there was sufficient wind.  As you say the deadeyes are simply hooked to the chainplate.  I have never seen this before either

BE,
This rigged version is also in the NMM
 

and as you suspect it shows the deadeye straps mounted on the wales.
 
Regards,
 
John
 
 
 

Thole Pins
 
This was quite a laborious task - 32 identical pins required.  I made at least 40. I turned them using my Proxxon rotary tool to a little less than 1mm:

and them painted them red before installing so that I did not over paint the cap rail

 
I.also found them more tricky to install than you might expect  since the slightest impact would break them off. I used this jig to ensure that the spacing an height of each pair was identical  
 

 
 
I finally managed to get 32 in place and I am hoping that I don't break a few more off during rigging!
 

John

BE,
This rigged version is also in the NMM
 

and as you suspect it shows the deadeye straps mounted on the wales.
 
Regards,
 
John
 
 
 

Thole Pins
 
This was quite a laborious task - 32 identical pins required.  I made at least 40. I turned them using my Proxxon rotary tool to a little less than 1mm:

and them painted them red before installing so that I did not over paint the cap rail

 
I.also found them more tricky to install than you might expect  since the slightest impact would break them off. I used this jig to ensure that the spacing an height of each pair was identical  
 

 
 
I finally managed to get 32 in place and I am hoping that I don't break a few more off during rigging!
 

John

BE,
This rigged version is also in the NMM
 

and as you suspect it shows the deadeye straps mounted on the wales.
 
Regards,
 
John
 
 
 

Thole Pins
 
This was quite a laborious task - 32 identical pins required.  I made at least 40. I turned them using my Proxxon rotary tool to a little less than 1mm:

and them painted them red before installing so that I did not over paint the cap rail

 
I.also found them more tricky to install than you might expect  since the slightest impact would break them off. I used this jig to ensure that the spacing an height of each pair was identical  
 

 
 
I finally managed to get 32 in place and I am hoping that I don't break a few more off during rigging!
 

John

Fabrication of Oars
 
Before starting on the masts and spars I decided to start work on the oars.  This consist of a turned handle attached to the blades,  I turned the handle on my home-made lathe
 
 

 
 
The lades are laser cut from flat sheet.  I standard these to obtain a slight curve which tapered toward the end

 
And the final appearance of a single oar:
 

I made only four of the eight or so that would have been used:
 

 
John
 

In my part of the world (Australia) companies who make sporting trophys will print text and/or graphic onto a brass plate. They usually require a vector graphics file which you can generate in Photoshop or Illustrator amongst others.

The Windlass and remaining thwarts
 
Chuck provides templates for the construction of the windlass and these are glued to a piece of 3/8 X 3/8 square stock and the sides pared away to the lines
 

 
A small chisel was used to make the pre-drilled round holes square to take the bars
 

The windlass is then mounted into the model via the two small laser cut brackets wich are mounted below the risers.  After installing thee more thwatrs thwarts the model looks like this:-
Thw rudder was fabricated ftom the blank supplied.  It was first standed to a tapered profile for and aft and rounded on the forward edge:
 

After sanding smooth and given a coat of wipe-on Poly the top was painted red as shown in the

 
 
The hinges were the added at the angle specified in the plan.  These are laser cut boxwood and are quite delicate until glued in place.  The bolts were simulated with blackened wire
 
 
 

 
 
Decorations were cut from paper
 

 
These are installed to finish the ruder
 
 

 
After mounting matching hinges on the aft section of the hull the rudder could be mounted
 
 

Fabrication of Oars
 
Before starting on the masts and spars I decided to start work on the oars.  This consist of a turned handle attached to the blades,  I turned the handle on my home-made lathe
 
 

 
 
The lades are laser cut from flat sheet.  I standard these to obtain a slight curve which tapered toward the end

 
And the final appearance of a single oar:
 

I made only four of the eight or so that would have been used:
 

 
John
 

Fabrication of Oars
 
Before starting on the masts and spars I decided to start work on the oars.  This consist of a turned handle attached to the blades,  I turned the handle on my home-made lathe
 
 

 
 
The lades are laser cut from flat sheet.  I standard these to obtain a slight curve which tapered toward the end

 
And the final appearance of a single oar:
 

I made only four of the eight or so that would have been used:
 

 
John
 

Fabrication of Oars
 
Before starting on the masts and spars I decided to start work on the oars.  This consist of a turned handle attached to the blades,  I turned the handle on my home-made lathe
 
 

 
 
The lades are laser cut from flat sheet.  I standard these to obtain a slight curve which tapered toward the end

 
And the final appearance of a single oar:
 

I made only four of the eight or so that would have been used:
 

 
John
 

The Windlass and remaining thwarts
 
Chuck provides templates for the construction of the windlass and these are glued to a piece of 3/8 X 3/8 square stock and the sides pared away to the lines
 

 
A small chisel was used to make the pre-drilled round holes square to take the bars
 

The windlass is then mounted into the model via the two small laser cut brackets wich are mounted below the risers.  After installing thee more thwatrs thwarts the model looks like this:-
Thw rudder was fabricated ftom the blank supplied.  It was first standed to a tapered profile for and aft and rounded on the forward edge:
 

After sanding smooth and given a coat of wipe-on Poly the top was painted red as shown in the

 
 
The hinges were the added at the angle specified in the plan.  These are laser cut boxwood and are quite delicate until glued in place.  The bolts were simulated with blackened wire
 
 
 

 
 
Decorations were cut from paper
 

 
These are installed to finish the ruder
 
 

 
After mounting matching hinges on the aft section of the hull the rudder could be mounted
 
 

Fabrication of Oars
 
Before starting on the masts and spars I decided to start work on the oars.  This consist of a turned handle attached to the blades,  I turned the handle on my home-made lathe
 
 

 
 
The lades are laser cut from flat sheet.  I standard these to obtain a slight curve which tapered toward the end

 
And the final appearance of a single oar:
 

I made only four of the eight or so that would have been used:
 

 
John