MEPering

Actually, Geoff, the rivets go all the way through, but are flush with the back of the bulwark planks.  CA or super glue will probably be applied from the back to hold them in position, relying on capillary action to suck the glue in.  The problem with this is that it stiffens the plank quite a lot.  So heating the plank will be necessary to make it fit after the studs are mounted, and after the fairing has occurred.  This may be easier than it appears, since the copper wire conducts heat very quickly.  Brass wire would do so almost as quickly. 
 
This being said, I think that the bulwarks should be done on the interior of the deck before the external planking should go on.  This allows for mistakes to be removed more easily.  Of course, this means exterior planking, at least for the bulwarks, needs to be perfect.  Due to less curvature in the outer planking, I think this should be the better approach.
 
I wish I could get to the ship to test some of these things, but it has been so busy this summer, I can't seem to do this at this time.  Building this deck off the house is taking all of my time at the moment, and probably will through the first of July... Possibly longer.  But this gives me time to think, so it is not all bad.  As a first ship for me, I think I should be spending about 10 hours of thinking for 1 hour of building.  The building I miss though, and I shall return to it as soon as I can get to it.
 
Matt

steaming does wonders ....steamed all my planks in a piece of pvc tubing or whatever attached to the lip of a kettle......my cherry wood bent beautifully......cheers.......

So this week has seen a lot of smaller details come together. I got ladders built and installed from the upper gun deck to the spar deck, railings installed, more cargo hatch gratings built and most of one of the cabin bulkheads built. Still have one more door to build and some clean up to do but overall a lot has changed. She is starting to come alive with these details.

Hello again. I have planked the transom, and have added a couple strakes to the test side. I have decided for certain the planking pattern, and will implement it on the other side (port) after I finish the strake I am working on. Planking will be pretty straight forward. I will update again when I reach some milestone, but it might be a while. After planking is coppering, but that will come when it comes. I have come to feel like my phantom looks more boat like. I guess she just earned more respect from me, because I made her a cradle of sorts .




Thanks for any responses, they are always welcome! Until next time !

Thanks for the responses, CaptainSteve, EJ. and Jon.  I don't think there is a wrong answer here.  I do think that I am going to attempt the bolts/rivets after thinking about it more though.  What made me wonder about it was that I wanted to fair the inner bulwarks, which if I had the bolts/rivets installed, would not be possible.  So I had to come up with a solution.  I think I have now.  So I will be installing them. 
 
There were basically 4 ways to approach this problem.  The first option was to forget about emulating the feature, but it is prominent on the ship, so I decided against it unless I can't make my method work.  The second option was to just fit the planks with the fixtures, and not worry about fairing them.  This is an unacceptable solution to me, since at this scale, with the variance in the planks I have, things would have looked too much out of scale.   The third way to do this is to install the planks, fair them, and then install the fixtures.  This is a viable approach, but it is labor intensive, and could lead to excessive variance in fixture height. 
 
Well, except for the third approach, these are not viable from a modelling perspective.  However, the fourth solution seems to be the best.  This is, to mount the planks with an easily dissolved adhesive, fair them, then dismount them one at a time, attach the fixtures, and remount them permanently.  This seem like a lot of work, and I am sure it will be.  But this seems to me to be the best way to handle this problem.  If anyone can suggest a better way, I would love to hear it.  The fixtures have to be very subtle, due to scale.  Tiny dots of glue I have used on plastic models, but I have never been satisfied with the irregularity this method has given me.  I will do a test on this method, and post it soon.
 
Matt

Thanks for the responses, CaptainSteve, EJ. and Jon.  I don't think there is a wrong answer here.  I do think that I am going to attempt the bolts/rivets after thinking about it more though.  What made me wonder about it was that I wanted to fair the inner bulwarks, which if I had the bolts/rivets installed, would not be possible.  So I had to come up with a solution.  I think I have now.  So I will be installing them. 
 
There were basically 4 ways to approach this problem.  The first option was to forget about emulating the feature, but it is prominent on the ship, so I decided against it unless I can't make my method work.  The second option was to just fit the planks with the fixtures, and not worry about fairing them.  This is an unacceptable solution to me, since at this scale, with the variance in the planks I have, things would have looked too much out of scale.   The third way to do this is to install the planks, fair them, and then install the fixtures.  This is a viable approach, but it is labor intensive, and could lead to excessive variance in fixture height. 
 
Well, except for the third approach, these are not viable from a modelling perspective.  However, the fourth solution seems to be the best.  This is, to mount the planks with an easily dissolved adhesive, fair them, then dismount them one at a time, attach the fixtures, and remount them permanently.  This seem like a lot of work, and I am sure it will be.  But this seems to me to be the best way to handle this problem.  If anyone can suggest a better way, I would love to hear it.  The fixtures have to be very subtle, due to scale.  Tiny dots of glue I have used on plastic models, but I have never been satisfied with the irregularity this method has given me.  I will do a test on this method, and post it soon.
 
Matt

Thanks for the responses, CaptainSteve, EJ. and Jon.  I don't think there is a wrong answer here.  I do think that I am going to attempt the bolts/rivets after thinking about it more though.  What made me wonder about it was that I wanted to fair the inner bulwarks, which if I had the bolts/rivets installed, would not be possible.  So I had to come up with a solution.  I think I have now.  So I will be installing them. 
 
There were basically 4 ways to approach this problem.  The first option was to forget about emulating the feature, but it is prominent on the ship, so I decided against it unless I can't make my method work.  The second option was to just fit the planks with the fixtures, and not worry about fairing them.  This is an unacceptable solution to me, since at this scale, with the variance in the planks I have, things would have looked too much out of scale.   The third way to do this is to install the planks, fair them, and then install the fixtures.  This is a viable approach, but it is labor intensive, and could lead to excessive variance in fixture height. 
 
Well, except for the third approach, these are not viable from a modelling perspective.  However, the fourth solution seems to be the best.  This is, to mount the planks with an easily dissolved adhesive, fair them, then dismount them one at a time, attach the fixtures, and remount them permanently.  This seem like a lot of work, and I am sure it will be.  But this seems to me to be the best way to handle this problem.  If anyone can suggest a better way, I would love to hear it.  The fixtures have to be very subtle, due to scale.  Tiny dots of glue I have used on plastic models, but I have never been satisfied with the irregularity this method has given me.  I will do a test on this method, and post it soon.
 
Matt

Thanks for the responses, CaptainSteve, EJ. and Jon.  I don't think there is a wrong answer here.  I do think that I am going to attempt the bolts/rivets after thinking about it more though.  What made me wonder about it was that I wanted to fair the inner bulwarks, which if I had the bolts/rivets installed, would not be possible.  So I had to come up with a solution.  I think I have now.  So I will be installing them. 
 
There were basically 4 ways to approach this problem.  The first option was to forget about emulating the feature, but it is prominent on the ship, so I decided against it unless I can't make my method work.  The second option was to just fit the planks with the fixtures, and not worry about fairing them.  This is an unacceptable solution to me, since at this scale, with the variance in the planks I have, things would have looked too much out of scale.   The third way to do this is to install the planks, fair them, and then install the fixtures.  This is a viable approach, but it is labor intensive, and could lead to excessive variance in fixture height. 
 
Well, except for the third approach, these are not viable from a modelling perspective.  However, the fourth solution seems to be the best.  This is, to mount the planks with an easily dissolved adhesive, fair them, then dismount them one at a time, attach the fixtures, and remount them permanently.  This seem like a lot of work, and I am sure it will be.  But this seems to me to be the best way to handle this problem.  If anyone can suggest a better way, I would love to hear it.  The fixtures have to be very subtle, due to scale.  Tiny dots of glue I have used on plastic models, but I have never been satisfied with the irregularity this method has given me.  I will do a test on this method, and post it soon.
 
Matt

Thanks for the responses, CaptainSteve, EJ. and Jon.  I don't think there is a wrong answer here.  I do think that I am going to attempt the bolts/rivets after thinking about it more though.  What made me wonder about it was that I wanted to fair the inner bulwarks, which if I had the bolts/rivets installed, would not be possible.  So I had to come up with a solution.  I think I have now.  So I will be installing them. 
 
There were basically 4 ways to approach this problem.  The first option was to forget about emulating the feature, but it is prominent on the ship, so I decided against it unless I can't make my method work.  The second option was to just fit the planks with the fixtures, and not worry about fairing them.  This is an unacceptable solution to me, since at this scale, with the variance in the planks I have, things would have looked too much out of scale.   The third way to do this is to install the planks, fair them, and then install the fixtures.  This is a viable approach, but it is labor intensive, and could lead to excessive variance in fixture height. 
 
Well, except for the third approach, these are not viable from a modelling perspective.  However, the fourth solution seems to be the best.  This is, to mount the planks with an easily dissolved adhesive, fair them, then dismount them one at a time, attach the fixtures, and remount them permanently.  This seem like a lot of work, and I am sure it will be.  But this seems to me to be the best way to handle this problem.  If anyone can suggest a better way, I would love to hear it.  The fixtures have to be very subtle, due to scale.  Tiny dots of glue I have used on plastic models, but I have never been satisfied with the irregularity this method has given me.  I will do a test on this method, and post it soon.
 
Matt

Thanks, David.  I am noticing that the fairing is not to bad here as well, but having time to get a bit of it done is.  Since we are both doing the MS version, I wouldn't expect it to be that different.  However, for me, to find time to work on it is getting to be a challenge.  I mentioned in and earlier post that I am busy with a deck on the rear of our home, and that is preventing me from shipyard work at the moment.  But this too shall pass and I will get back to it.
 
But that doesn't mean I don't have time to think about the ship.  I have decided that if I am going to do the simulated rivets, I need a bit smaller wire.  It is currently looking like .010 or perhaps even smaller.  This gives rise to another question though... How am I going to make them seen.  I feel this is an important detail, but it must be close to scale.  To exaggerate a fine detail like this will detract from the model instead of making it more realistic.  I know it is impossible to make an exact model, but I want to make this as close as I can to the prototype. 
 
With that being said, perhaps this detail should not appear on the model.  I have seen others who have included it, and I applaud them for such a titanic effort, bit is it worth it?  I know it is going to bother me if I don't include it, but I also know that most people won't notice if I do include it.  So the quandary continues.  I am still not sure.  When we are considering a projection of 1/2" at most from the bulwark on the prototype, it becomes very hard to justify the inclusion of such a detail. 
 
So what do you all think?  Is it important, or should it be ignored?  I shall await responses.
 
Matt

I am still working on my first real build but plan to construct the Constitution in the future. At this stage I am planning to include the rivets because I see them on the real ship. Even though they are small and may be over looked by the casual observer, it does give texture and authenticity to the model.
 
As an example, I've included tree nails in my Rattlesnake build. I did not enhance the contrast or in any way make make them conspicuous so at a slight distance they are not noticeable. As the observer is drawn closer to the model by just looking at it, more and more detail is revealed. It is that act of discovery that delights the observer. As many modeler know, there is a lot of detail that is almost impossible to see (for God's eye) but somehow the effect of that detail is felt. Finally, the detail that is included is up to the builder to the extent that makes him/her feel good about making the model in the first place.
 
That is my personal humble opinion
 
Jon

I agree with what Captain Steve has said And would only add that unless you are building on commission or with intent to sell to a museum build it the way you want to see it as you will be both its biggest fan and critic so she needs to make you happy.

It truly is your decision, and yours alone, Matt. For myself, I would very much like to include every detail that every other builder has added to their own Connie builds.
 
Indeed, having done three builds previously, I have never, ever met anyone who has said "You missed such-and-such", or "Where's the so-and-so ??". All of the details that you have included will be enough for the majority of viewers (who are NOT Naval historians) to just go "Wow !!", instead.
 
On the contrary, most people are content to just look at what has been done, and (even for work done by a novice builder such as myself) comment on how good it looks. Whilst I know for a fact that there were some features (especially on my first build) which I personally find cringe-worthy, these issues have never been pointed out by anyone viewing the work.
 
For myself, when looking at any decent ship model, I am overwhelmed by what HAS been included, and overlook anything that may be missing.

Thanks, David.  I am noticing that the fairing is not to bad here as well, but having time to get a bit of it done is.  Since we are both doing the MS version, I wouldn't expect it to be that different.  However, for me, to find time to work on it is getting to be a challenge.  I mentioned in and earlier post that I am busy with a deck on the rear of our home, and that is preventing me from shipyard work at the moment.  But this too shall pass and I will get back to it.
 
But that doesn't mean I don't have time to think about the ship.  I have decided that if I am going to do the simulated rivets, I need a bit smaller wire.  It is currently looking like .010 or perhaps even smaller.  This gives rise to another question though... How am I going to make them seen.  I feel this is an important detail, but it must be close to scale.  To exaggerate a fine detail like this will detract from the model instead of making it more realistic.  I know it is impossible to make an exact model, but I want to make this as close as I can to the prototype. 
 
With that being said, perhaps this detail should not appear on the model.  I have seen others who have included it, and I applaud them for such a titanic effort, bit is it worth it?  I know it is going to bother me if I don't include it, but I also know that most people won't notice if I do include it.  So the quandary continues.  I am still not sure.  When we are considering a projection of 1/2" at most from the bulwark on the prototype, it becomes very hard to justify the inclusion of such a detail. 
 
So what do you all think?  Is it important, or should it be ignored?  I shall await responses.
 
Matt

Fairing is coming along slowly, as the deck off the back of our house is taking priority, but I almost have the starboard side done.  I don't have pics of it, but it is pretty standard stuff, but the crappy luane plywood that the bulkheads are faced with are terrible when it comes to adhering to their substrate.  I have been impressed by Model Shipways in their craftsmanship so far, but these bulkheads are crap as far as the faces.  Why even face them, when they aren't even seen anyway?  Maybe they got a deal on this cheap stuff. 
 
I don't mean to sound like I am bashing Model Shipways, but it is what it is.  It is a quality kit.  Perhaps my technique should be modified to reinforce the bulkheads with CA.  But that makes it a bit tougher to fair also.  I will not be using CA to attach the planking, as I prefer a PVA for this.  I knew a man once who did use CA to attach a quarter to his front steps, just to see how many bent over to pick it up.  This was right after CA came out, and he did have some stories to tell about it.  A quarter was worth a lot more back then.
 
Anyway... Fairing continues on the starboard side, and hopefully I will be planking in a couple of weeks.
 
Matt

It has been a few days since my last update, but my Admiral sprung on me that she wants a deck built on the bacl of the house, 12' x 30", and she wants it by the 4th of July.  Since I am a one-man-shop, this leaves little time for shipyard work.  But I did get just a little time tonight to check some things as I was beginning fairing.  I made a mistake.
 
My gun deck gun ports are not in the correct position.  The are very close, but they are still off.  This is a mistake, but it is not major, since I intended on showing the ship with ports closed in most positions anyway.  The way I positioned the ports was to use a 1/4" spacer to make them even with the top of the gun deck's bottom.  This did not work, since there is variance in how the laser cut bulkheads are cut.  Perhaps if I had faired the gun deck first, then this would have worked.  But I didn't.
 
In hindsight, I should not have assembled the gun port frames off of the ship.  Or perhaps I should have done it differently.  But if I were to do it again, I would assemble them on the ship, and then fit the laser cut backs to them.  This would have been much more accurate.  Had I done it in this manner, this mistake would have been totally avoided.  You should be able to see the variance in the picture below.
 
So how to solve the problem?  Well, it is more simple than it might seem at first.  Once the planking is on from the main rail down to those ports, then it is a matter of shimming and filing.  As I said, the error is not that much, and since most of my gun ports are going to be closed, this is how I will solve the problem. 
 
Now I could also go to an extreme and chop out those ports and rebuild them, but it is really unnecessary.  In most cases, this is only 1/32nd variance.  If you look carefully at the picture, You should be able to see that.  And it is just a few that are off.  I just wanted to throw this out there to warn people about using my original method.  When a ship sits in port, the ports are often opened to provide ventilation and drying.  My ship is in port with sails off for repair, but I am only going to show a few open, so it is not a major fix.  Just a warning to you who are starting this ship.
 
Matt
 
 

Thanks David and E.J.  It is good when you haven't got any experience to get feedback like this from those who do have experience.  I did consider the LSS course, but that was before I discovered Model Ship World... lol.  Actually, I like the challenge of figuring things out, and Bob's practicum probably would have been too much direct instruction for my liking.  I typically learn the most when I have a steep learning-curve to surmount.
 
And yes... It has been a lot of fun so far... more so than I had originally anticipated.  And I haven't even gotten to the visible parts of the ship yet.  But I think this forum has contributed quite a bit to that too.  I don't feel I am stumbling along in the dark as much with the build logs I can read and feedback I get here.
 
Matt

It has been a few days since my last update, but my Admiral sprung on me that she wants a deck built on the bacl of the house, 12' x 30", and she wants it by the 4th of July.  Since I am a one-man-shop, this leaves little time for shipyard work.  But I did get just a little time tonight to check some things as I was beginning fairing.  I made a mistake.
 
My gun deck gun ports are not in the correct position.  The are very close, but they are still off.  This is a mistake, but it is not major, since I intended on showing the ship with ports closed in most positions anyway.  The way I positioned the ports was to use a 1/4" spacer to make them even with the top of the gun deck's bottom.  This did not work, since there is variance in how the laser cut bulkheads are cut.  Perhaps if I had faired the gun deck first, then this would have worked.  But I didn't.
 
In hindsight, I should not have assembled the gun port frames off of the ship.  Or perhaps I should have done it differently.  But if I were to do it again, I would assemble them on the ship, and then fit the laser cut backs to them.  This would have been much more accurate.  Had I done it in this manner, this mistake would have been totally avoided.  You should be able to see the variance in the picture below.
 
So how to solve the problem?  Well, it is more simple than it might seem at first.  Once the planking is on from the main rail down to those ports, then it is a matter of shimming and filing.  As I said, the error is not that much, and since most of my gun ports are going to be closed, this is how I will solve the problem. 
 
Now I could also go to an extreme and chop out those ports and rebuild them, but it is really unnecessary.  In most cases, this is only 1/32nd variance.  If you look carefully at the picture, You should be able to see that.  And it is just a few that are off.  I just wanted to throw this out there to warn people about using my original method.  When a ship sits in port, the ports are often opened to provide ventilation and drying.  My ship is in port with sails off for repair, but I am only going to show a few open, so it is not a major fix.  Just a warning to you who are starting this ship.
 
Matt
 
 

Thanks for all the help and comments guys! I will be using the plank bender for the first time for a tricky bend at the stern. I will pick the port side for display because that is the side I did the fist plank second, if you understand that. Would doing a plank on the starboard side, then repeating the same plank on the port work? That way, all the planks on the port side would be the second attempt of itself. What do you think?
Lawrence, welcome to my build! Thanks for coming! As for the build being in the scratch build forum, what would classify it as a scratch build? Thanks!
Wayne, thanks for the nice comment! You can use my log, but I'm not sure if I am farther than yours and your granddaughters build. I think I might have seen it somewhere on MSW, but I'm not sure where it is now. Isn't it named the Elsa? Have fun building her!

Sorry to hear of your loss, Pat.  Back in the '70s I was building the 1/96 version, but never got it quite totally completed, due to an accident as well.  So I feel your pain. 
 
I think you will be happier working with wood anyway... Loosing a piece of wood just means you need to remake it.  Loosing a casting is the same, but much more complicated if you can't order a replacement from the supplier.  Also, if you use the right adhesives in wood, some things are reversible.  Plastic is not usually so forgiving. 
 
I will be looking forward to seeing your build log of the Lady Nelson.  I have heard it is a great starter kit.  And having the room is more important than you might think.  I have one bench that I have to use for all of my work.  I build 18th century firearm reproductions for a living, and when I want to work on my ship, all of that has to be set aside and it gets to be a real headache.  Having a dedicated space is not just a convenience... It is more like a must if you want to work efficiently.  My bench is only 3' x 7', so there is only space for a single project at a time.  When I was a kid, I used the kitchen table for modelling, so I spent as much time cleaning up as modelling... lol.  I will look for that new log of yours. 
 
Matt

Fairing is coming along slowly, as the deck off the back of our house is taking priority, but I almost have the starboard side done.  I don't have pics of it, but it is pretty standard stuff, but the crappy luane plywood that the bulkheads are faced with are terrible when it comes to adhering to their substrate.  I have been impressed by Model Shipways in their craftsmanship so far, but these bulkheads are crap as far as the faces.  Why even face them, when they aren't even seen anyway?  Maybe they got a deal on this cheap stuff. 
 
I don't mean to sound like I am bashing Model Shipways, but it is what it is.  It is a quality kit.  Perhaps my technique should be modified to reinforce the bulkheads with CA.  But that makes it a bit tougher to fair also.  I will not be using CA to attach the planking, as I prefer a PVA for this.  I knew a man once who did use CA to attach a quarter to his front steps, just to see how many bent over to pick it up.  This was right after CA came out, and he did have some stories to tell about it.  A quarter was worth a lot more back then.
 
Anyway... Fairing continues on the starboard side, and hopefully I will be planking in a couple of weeks.
 
Matt

Thanks Popeye. I do like making those small parts and am finding that scratch building them can be very rewarding.
 
I have finished up the spar deck, except for the adding the ships wheels which I will wait a little longer to do. I added shot holders around some of the gratings and added shot, but for this deck I spaced them out more in the rack. I happen to be reading TFFM Vol2 and saw that the English Swan class had a fixed block on the planksheer in the open waist for the fore sheet. This got me thinking that the Constitution plans show a fixed block in the bulwarks for the fore sheet, but I don't have bulwarks there because of the open waist. So, I am going to add a fixed block on the planksheer so that the fore sheet will look right coming back to the large cleat I put on the planksheer for it. Now I just have to figure out what it should look like.
 
In the mean time I have started making the channels, now that I know their sizes. I started by cutting the rough rectangles out of 3/32" basswood sheet, leaving enough on them to cut in any curves needed to get them to fit to the hull. I then fit each one to the hull, using manila folder material as a template for the fore channels, since they curve more than the others. The main channels didn't need much curving and the mizzen channels I just sanded until they fit. I then cut each one to width duplicating the outside edge to the same curve as the inside curve.
 
I then had to taper the undersides so that they came to 1/16" at the outside edge. I could have done this by hand and it probably would have been OK, but I have this new thickness sander just waiting to be used. So, I first had to make a jig to hold the channels at an angle so I could run them through the sander. I came up with this simple arrangement, which is just a 1/32" strip along one edge and a higher fence on the other side. The channels ride against the fence and sit on top of the 1/32" strip.
 

 
I ran them through the sander using the jig after iterating on the first one until I had the 1/16" edge.
 

 
Here is a completed one in the jig
 

 
OK, now that they were tapered I needed to cut the notches into the outside edges for the deadeye strops. After some experimentation on how I was going to strop the deadeyes (more on that in a future post) I came up with the size of the slots. Now, how was I going to hold the channels while milling. I didn't want to lay them flat on the XY table because I didn't want the mill bit contacting the metal table. I thought to hold them upright in a vice and use the mill bit to cut the slot that way, but then I just happened to see this recent post from Frank.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13125-dunbrody-irish-famine-ship-by-mahuna-148-sectional-model/page-13#entry418554
 
Now I knew how to do this right. I took a piece of plywood and bolted it to the XY table, then screwed a fence to the table that was parallel to the X axis. I held the channel against the fence and cut each slot with the bit down into the plywood slightly. I then cleaned up the slots with a small square file.
 

 

 

 
I have the fore and main channels milled and will do the mizzen channels tonight. Then I will use a smaller bit to mill the slots for the eyebolts on the channels that have chains attached to them. More on these later too.
 

Elijah, Mikiek is giving very good advice there.  You should decide which side is going to be prominently displayed first, and use the other for experimentation/first build stuff.  Since I am also doing a first build, I decided my port side would be the most prominent, since the place I intend to display it shows it off better like that.  So I am doing most things on the starboard side first.  But this advice also needs to be taken with a grain of salt,  because planking should be done on both sides equally, from my understanding.  This is probably less important with a solid hull like you have, but with a POB or POF planking, it is important, I think. 
 
Like Bill and EJ said, the first plank is most important to get right.  Of course you can correct for it later, but that just makes for more work that really isn't necessary if you just get that first one right.  After that, make sure your wood is dry after you bend it before mounting it to the ship.  It is amazing how much wood can swell when thoroughly wetted.  Or you can use strictly a heat bending method, which insures the wood is dry, but this is a more delicate process and you have to be careful not to scorch the wood.  This is my preferred method, but wetting is also a good method, considering that the planks are very thin, and don't take much time in the water to saturate. 
 
Matt

wonderful progress Tom...........I'm scrambling like crazy trying to get caught up!  small parts can be such a bugger........but they add so much to the build  
   nice job on the capstans.......the extra detail will stand out well!  

Once the center planking was set I was checking spar deck pictures of the real ship and noticed that there was a trim perimeter frame between the decking and planksheer. Fortunately the center decking section allowed the cutting in of the stern, and bow portions once the sides were added. The framing was added with the decking in place with the perimeter framing being held tightly against the planksheer and then very carefully tack glued without gluing the frame to the planksheer. Decking was then removed, the framing securely glued and the rest of the planking added.
 

 

 

 

 
Once the glue has set the planking will be sanded and the butt joints cut in with a sharp Xacto blade and black glue filled. Staining will then follow.