Bender

I was asked to repost this. This is an easy way of tying blocks to yards or mast. I have also used this to tie blocks to the underside of tops.
 
I start out with thicker thread. A little trial and error with different threads to get the look I want. Notice I have the thread folded three times and use a clip to hold the thread tight.

 
I use smaller thread to wrap around the thicker thread. I start out with a slip knot tied in the thinner thread, and stick the loop and loose end of the thicker thread through the knot.

 
The thinner thread has two ends. The end that pulls the slip knot tight and the end the pulls the loop through the knot.

 
I pull the loop tight against the thicker thread and use a second clip to hold the thinner thread in place.

 
I start wrapping the thin thread (The end that pulls the knot tight.) around the three layer of thick thread and the loop of the thin thread.

 
I make 7 to 10 or more wraps. Trail and error to get the look.
 
While wrapping and after, you have to hold the wraps to keep them from unwinding. Remove the one clip. Take the end of the thread you've been wrapping and pass it through the loop of the thin thread.

 
Still while holding the wraps to keep them from unwinding, pull on the other end of the thin thread to pull the loop tight around the end of the thin thread. Pull the thin thread tight but not too tight. If is too tight, it will be hard to pull the thicker thread through. Also, as you pull on the end of the thinner thread it will pull the loop and the other end on the thin thread into the wrap.

 
You now have a loop and a loose end of thicker thread sticking out each end of the thinner thread. Pulling the loose end on one side pulls the loop in on the other side. Put a block in one loop and pull the loop tight.

 
Slip the other end over a yard or mast. You can also start out with the loop already around something.

 
Pull that loop tight.

 
Add a drop or two of CA glue, and when it is dry snip of the loose ends. This picture shows two block tie to a yard.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I used birch plywood for the base and poplar wood for the corners and top edges.
 

 
This picture shows the clearance the oars tip has with the grove for the glass.
 

 
I made three mount that fit the curve of the hull.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Top edge and corner
 

 
Bottom edge and corner
 

 
Just for perspective. This is me.
 

The boat rack was made earlier in the build.
 

 

 

 

Here are some pictures I took outside. The oars are next.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Here are more pictures as the rigging progressed.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I don't remember from who I pick up the process of using tea to stain sails. But it was from some one here on MSW.
 
Here are the sails after the glue has dried.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I painted the blades of the oars white.
 

 

 
I coated the oars with satin poly and used a piece of scrap wood to hold all 59.
 

The oars came pre-shaped, only needing a little shaping to make each match and give some curve to the blades. I glued the Reinforcement battens to the oars where the oar presses against the oarlocks. 

 
The battens were lashed to the oars. Gluing the battens first made tying the lashing much easer.

 
This is half of the oars. This ship has 59 oars. On the real Reale 6 or 7 men would pull on each oar.

 
The oar itself was too big for the oarsmen to wrap their hand around, so handles were attached. I glued the supplied handles to the oars and held them in place with tape.

 

 

 

 
Here are all the oars sitting across the side rails.

 

 
Here are twenty-eight of the 59 oars. I made left and right oars. By doing this the lashing's knot is on the underside of the oar.

Making the sails.
 

 

 

 

 
This is the tea mixed with wood glue.
 

 
Drip drying a little.
 

 
I used bags of gravel to form the sail into a bellowing shape.
 

 

 
 

Making the sails.
 

 

 

 

 
This is the tea mixed with wood glue.
 

 
Drip drying a little.
 

 
I used bags of gravel to form the sail into a bellowing shape.
 

 

 
 

I am not very good at drawing but  . . .
 

 
The last four pictures shows different places I have used this method.
 
Around a yard.

 
Under a top. These blocks were added by passing the thicker thread around the cross tree before doing any warping.

 
All of these blocks are attached with this method. I used a variation of this method to attach the stay.

 
And one more

 
I lied.  One more.

 
 

I am not very good at drawing but  . . .
 

 
The last four pictures shows different places I have used this method.
 
Around a yard.

 
Under a top. These blocks were added by passing the thicker thread around the cross tree before doing any warping.

 
All of these blocks are attached with this method. I used a variation of this method to attach the stay.

 
And one more

 
I lied.  One more.

 
 

Thanks each of you for you kind words.
 
I added some more of the kit supplied decorations. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Next was the cooking box. This brings up a point. The actual ships of this type had 59 oars, each manned by 7 men. That is 413 men eating a lot of food.  The deck on these ships were low. This allowed the waves to wash over the deck. Think of this as flushing the toilet.
 
I mixed together charcoal and diluted glue, and pressed this into the box. When it was dry I used red fingernail polish to give the appearance of glowing embers. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I really appreciate each of your commits. 
 
Here are some pictures of the finished fore castle.
 

 

 

 

 
This piece was build off the ship and then installed.
 

 

 

 

 
This structure will hold the shade canopy.
 

 

Next was the rails on the fore castle.
 

 

 
I added the brass pins for added strength.

 

 

 

 

 

Before building the handrails I needed to attach the Oar thole-pins (Oarlocks) and the Oar wear pads. On the real Reale de France the thole-pins wound have been a wood. I used brass rods.
 

 

 

 
The wear pads.
 

 
 
 The shrouds will pass through these four holes and attach to the chain plates.
 

Before building the handrails I needed to attach the Oar thole-pins (Oarlocks) and the Oar wear pads. On the real Reale de France the thole-pins wound have been a wood. I used brass rods.
 

 

 

 
The wear pads.
 

 
 
 The shrouds will pass through these four holes and attach to the chain plates.
 

I added some more of the kit supplied decorations and attached the wale.
 
In the next four pictures you can see the little brass stars that are attached along the hull.

 

 

 

 
This last pictures is the kit supplied rudder hinge. It did not hold out very well.

This picture shows the cat heads being attached.

 
The last four pictures show the cat heads from different angles.
 

 

 

 
 

The kit came with some fancy trim.

 
Two-hole toilet.

 
This structure provided some privacy for the toilets. The shrouds will attach to this piece.

 

 
  
 

 
The counter foot boards are added.
 

 
I glued and clipped some wood to cover up more plywood, and you can see the counter foot boards.

 
This shows the counter foot boards in place and shows the wood I used to cover the plywood.

 
 

This ship has three walkways. One down the center and one on each side running the length of the overdeck. These pictures show the port and starboard walkways.
 
Starboard side walkway being clamped to the overdeck. The curved piece you see under the clamps is there to keep the clamps from damaging the wood.

 
Clamps removed

 

 
Close up of the walkway and raised deck.  The two round holes are the deck officers' toilets.

 
The port side walkway under the clamps. The perspective of the starboard side (tops of picture) makes it seem that the walkway and the raised deck are on the same level. They are not.

 

 
Perspective is off on this picture too.

 

 

Next the canopy. The kit supplied plywood and PE brass for the lower and upper section of the walls that support the canopy. I messed up the brass on the lower section. The brass on the upper section was meant to look open with vertical spindles. I used some spindles from Model Expo and took some liberty here.
 
You can see the plywood and the spindles.

 

 

 
 
 
The kit supplied plywood to make a form. The slats that make the canopy top are bent over the plywood form. This form has to be remove after the canopy in finished. I made a bunch of cuts in the form to make it easier to brake apart and remove.

 
The next few pictures show the slats being added.

 

 

 

 
 

I was asked to repost this. This is an easy way of tying blocks to yards or mast. I have also used this to tie blocks to the underside of tops.
 
I start out with thicker thread. A little trial and error with different threads to get the look I want. Notice I have the thread folded three times and use a clip to hold the thread tight.

 
I use smaller thread to wrap around the thicker thread. I start out with a slip knot tied in the thinner thread, and stick the loop and loose end of the thicker thread through the knot.

 
The thinner thread has two ends. The end that pulls the slip knot tight and the end the pulls the loop through the knot.

 
I pull the loop tight against the thicker thread and use a second clip to hold the thinner thread in place.

 
I start wrapping the thin thread (The end that pulls the knot tight.) around the three layer of thick thread and the loop of the thin thread.

 
I make 7 to 10 or more wraps. Trail and error to get the look.
 
While wrapping and after, you have to hold the wraps to keep them from unwinding. Remove the one clip. Take the end of the thread you've been wrapping and pass it through the loop of the thin thread.

 
Still while holding the wraps to keep them from unwinding, pull on the other end of the thin thread to pull the loop tight around the end of the thin thread. Pull the thin thread tight but not too tight. If is too tight, it will be hard to pull the thicker thread through. Also, as you pull on the end of the thinner thread it will pull the loop and the other end on the thin thread into the wrap.

 
You now have a loop and a loose end of thicker thread sticking out each end of the thinner thread. Pulling the loose end on one side pulls the loop in on the other side. Put a block in one loop and pull the loop tight.

 
Slip the other end over a yard or mast. You can also start out with the loop already around something.

 
Pull that loop tight.

 
Add a drop or two of CA glue, and when it is dry snip of the loose ends. This picture shows two block tie to a yard.