hopeful

Post 4 of my Phantom Build
 
Task was to make a building cradle. 
 
Photo 14
 
Using profile gauge. One can also use the profiles of hull templates if available or, trace the profile from build plan drawings.
 

 
Photo 15
 
Note profile is shown on both the top and bottom of the profile gauge. One can use either profile when transferring the shape to paper of other material.
 

 
Photo 16
 

 
 
Phoro 17
 
 
Ready to cut out the profiles.
 
 

 
Photo 18
 
Cradle with felt added to protect the hull. Felt glued to the profiles with rubber cement. Place cement on profile not on the felt. Then press the felt into place.
 

 
Photo 19
 

 
 
Photo 20
 
Cradle chucked into my 360 degree rotating vise. I have found that a rotating vise is very helpful. One that both rotates and tilts is better yet.
 

 
 
Thanks for looking in on the build. All questions, comments, and constructive criticism is always appreciated.
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”

Post 2 of my Phantom Build
 
Task was to finish fairing the hull bow to stern. Strips are false keel, stem, and stern post pieces to guide fairing along those parts. Stripes will be removed for application of final parts. Gap in stem strip because strip was not pushed in  far enough. Stem is properly shaped.
 
Photo 7
 

 
Photo 8
 

 
Photo 9
 
Task is to locate and mark centerline on the deck. Centerline was located in the bow, keel, and transome previously.
 
Since the Centerlines were located on the stem and transom, I simply placed a small pencil mark at the edge of the bulkwarks and stem. I then pused in a pin at those location at located a thin board against the pies and made a line and pin against the board amidships. At that point I placed a smaller board again the center pin and at the stern and derw the full line. I repeated the process only from the center pin to the bow and drew the second line. Results in the next photo.
 

 
Photo 10
 

 
Next step in the build is to add the 1/8" square stem, keel, and stern post.
 
Thanks for looking in on the build. All comments, constructive criticism, advice as to how to improve my work is welcomed! 
 
There are other Phantom builds going on in the Forum. Check them out by searching "Phantom" in the kit section of the build logs.
 
To get to this point in the build took about 7 hours.
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted Gallery
 
Current: Sultana (MSW)
Current: Phantom (MSW)
 
 
 
 
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hey Scott,
 
The most challenging aspect of solid hull modeling in my case was establishing the centerline of the hull 360 degrees all around the hull as mentioned earlier.
 
The key, as a first step, is to get the false keel perfectly flat, not as easy as it sounds. You noticed, when adding the strip to the false keel that it did not lay flat but at an angle in some places. I suggest you carefully work to get the false keel perfectly flat by sanding and checking for flatness until you are satisfied its perfect. I use a small triangle level (3" X 3") which works well for me. Unfortunately level ain't nothing but level!  Stick with it. If you get frustrated walk away and try again later.
 
Once the false keel is level you can  pencil in the centerline. I placed a small pencil dot at the stern and another at the lowest part of the bow end and joined the dots with a fine light pencil line. By eye balling the line you can tell immediately if its right If not, give it another go. Then mark the centler line on the stern of the vessel from the end of the false keel to the top of the transom. Then give the centerline at the bow a shot. Once you are satisfied the centerline looks right from the top of the bow to the top of the stern, mark the centerline on the deck by connenting th pencel line at the top of the stern to the one at the top of the bow. At this point you will have the 360 degree centerline aroung the hull. It does not matter that the hull has not been frared  to the shape of the templates in order to establish the 360 degree centerline.  
 
....Regarding the centerline indicated by your #2 above, you should continue that line to the top of the transom as noted in para 3 of this post.
 
....Yes you are correct, the material at your #3 will be removed as you fair the hull in the stern area. I had a lot of fairing to do in that area.
 
Shaping the hull is like anything new. Once you work at it a bit the task gets easier. By the way, I find it easier for me to fair the hull on both the starboard and port sides as I moved from station to station.
 
Kep on.....
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka DAvid
 
"Standards set are standards met".

Hi mates,
 
I'm a bookaholic so have  most of the books mentioned in this forum. The best general overall building book I have is Model Shipbuilding from Stem to Stern by Milton Roth ISBN-13: 978-0-8306-2844-5......$20USD from amazon.com. The book contains 288 pages of great stuff and many illustrations. If I had to get rid of all my books but one, I would be happy with Roth's "how to" book.
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

HI All,
 
Post 19 of my Sharpie Build Log
 
This is the last post of my build. If this build helps but one future builder of Midwest's Sharpie Schooner it was worth taking the time to repost the log. 
 
At this time I want to thank the members of the forum, you know who you are, whp helped me through my first build. Without your kind assistance along the way the build would have turned out very different. 
 
To everyone on the present forum I say take heart. It will take some time to get back to where the forum was in terms of build logs and other information. The work has begun, and we will get there because of the dedication of the Admirals, moderators and current builders on the site. I wish you all well.  Ps.....show as much technique as possible when constructing build logs to help ofther builders grow and enjoy the forum.
 
Photo 103
 
From here the photos are shots of the completed vessel.
 

 
Photo 104

 
Photo 105
 

 
Photo 106

 
Photo 107

 
Photo 108

 
This ends the repost.
 
Do not ever be ashamed to construct any type vessel.  They all, in the end, can be quite wonderful!
 
Thanks for looking in on the log, much appreciated.
 
BFN!
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
 “there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed:      Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Reposting the build log at present
On the bench:  Sultana (MSW)   Reposting the log and keeping on with the build
 
Next:  Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi,
 
Getting to the end of the repost.
 
Post 18 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log
 
Rigging continues from post 17.
 
 
Photo 96

 
Photo 97

 
Photo 98

 
Photo 99

 
Photo 100

 
Photo 101

 
Photo 102

 
More to come........
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
 “there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed:      Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Reposting the build log at present
On the bench:  Sultana (MSW)   Reposting the log and keeping on with the build
 
Next:  Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi All,
 
Continuing the repost...
 
Post 17 of my Sharpie Schpooner Build Log
 
Making masts etc. I have no photos of  how I made the masts, booms, and gaffs. (Go ahead and follow the instructions for that phase of the build.)
 
Next Steps......Rigging and stepping the masts.
 
Photo 88
 
First step is to connect the mast hoops to the sail with threaded knots.  
 

 
Photo 89
 
Attaching the sail to the boom and gaff using robands. Do as much rigging work as possible before stepping the masts.
 

 
Photo 90
 

 
Photo 91
 

 
Photo 92
 
Stepping the main mast.
 

 
Photo 93
 
Stepping the foremast.
 

 
Photo 94
 

 
Photo 95
 
Adding the staysail and staysail horse.
 

 
More photos to come in this sequence in my next post................
 
 
Cheers,
 
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Reposting the build log at present
On the bench: Sultana (MSW) Reposting the log and keeping on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

HI Mates,
 
Post 16 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log
 
Sailmaking continued from post 15.........
 
Photo 79
 
Need material to make sails. The best material is Egyptian cotton which has a very fine weave and is light as a feather.  Boatbiuildesr who make sails prefer Egyptian cotton. I cut up an off white old shirt made of rip stop nylon. the weave was perfect for the scale of my vessel.
 
Photo 80
 
Placed the material over my pattern.
 

 
Photo 81
 
Used disappearing ink to trace the pattern. As soon as heat passes over the ink to disappears.......very clever product availabale at good sewing storess
 

 
Photo 82
 
Making the sail.
 

 
 
As stated, the rip stop nylon was placed over the ship’s sail plan and traced using disappearing ink. Photo 91 shows the completed sail plan for the main sail.
 
Please note the following:
There is an outer and inner line around the pattern The inner line represents the size of the finished sail. The 8 inner angled lines represent where the faux sail material is to be stitched together. In the age of sail the width of sail material was about 2’ wide or less. Material of 18” widths was common. So when making a sail one wants to show the stitching. Follow these steps to turn the pattern into sail that can be applied to the model.
Stich by hand or sewing machine the 8 lines simulating where the sail material is joined together. Remove the material outside the outer line all around cutting slowly and carefully. Do not be in a hurry. When finished, you will have a sail just prior to creating the border. At this point turn the sail over and pin it to a piece of board to keep it from moving around. I placed pins through the inner outside boarder line in order to hide the pin holes after the fold over edge is formed. Fold the material along the inner line of the sail. Stich the folded edge of the material to the main body of the sail. I used an iron to press the edge of the fold which made it much easier to stich the fold. Suggested you practice folding the edge and fitting the corners using a piece of copy paper.
 
Photo 83
 
Sewn seams.
                    
 

 
Photo 84
 
Fold made and sail finished to correct size per drawing.
 

 
Photo 85
 
Adding the bolt rope.
 

 
Photo 86
 
Completed sail set.
 

 
This is the first sail set I made. The folded edge was not to scale so I made a second set which is shown on the completed vessel.
 
Photo 87
 
Close up of sails on completed vessel.
 

 
Happy sailmaking.
 
BFN.
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
 “there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed:      Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Reposting the build log at present
On the bench:  Sultana (MSW)   Reposting the log and keeping on with the build
 
Next:  Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

HI Mates,
 
Post 15 of my Sharpie Schooner Build
 
This is the 3rd time on this post by getting caught in miserable time outs on the post, blah!!! So now I am creating all posts in word with a transfer to the forum.
 
Thanks to Gerty, Keith, BobB, and Russ for checking in on the repost of my Sharpie Schooner. Keith: Will get back re making mast hoops.
This post is about making sails for my vessel. As I was building and thinking ahead to the finish line I was concerned  the Sharpie would look a bit blank without sails. My favorite “how to” book, Ship Building from Stem to Stern by Milton Roth has a chapter devoted to sails and sail making. Russ helped me along the way giving great advice. as usual. Thanks Russ!
 
Before moving on there are 4 terms I will be using from time to time. The luff is the part of the sail adjacent to the mast. Leech is the portion of the sail opposite the luff. The top of the sail is the head and the bottom the foot. Oh, there is no leech on a sib or staysail as they are triangles.
 
Take a look at the sail plan for the Sharpie. Some build kits will not have a sail plan but one can figure out their dimensions with a little help from, Roth’s book.
 
Photo 76
 
To make sails you need a sail plan drawing. Mine came with the kit.
 

 
Photo 77
 
I traced the original drawing to to make a sail pattern.
 

 
Photo 78
 
Made a card copy of each sail and place them agaist the masts and booms to make sure they fit as in not to large or small, very very important. A tip Russ gave to me way back.
 

 
 
More to come..........
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
 “there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed:      Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Reposting the build log at present
On the bench:  Sultana (MSW)   Reposting the log and keeping on with the build
 
Next:  Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi,
 
Post #13 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log
 
Photo 70
 
Added chainplates and bob stays.....brass parts primed and painted!
 

 
Photo 71
 
Deck compoments added including eye bolts, cleats, and main and fore mast boom horses (travelers).
 

 
Photo 72
 
Two methods of making rings to connect the deadeyes to the chain plates.
 
First twisted wire
 

 
Photo 73
 
Second was making a ring with solver soldered joint crimped around deadeye. I used this method. Bright piece is a dime to show scale.
 

 
Photo 74
 
 
Made mast hoops and mast coats. The mast hoops were mde of edge grain pine, the mast hoops of basswood.  Mast hoops can also be made of card with wonderful results. 
 

 
Photo 75
 
To show scale of mast hoops!
 

 
Sails are next.
 
BFN,
Hoperful aka David

Hi,
 
Post #12 of my Sharpie Build Log
 
Photo 63
 
At this pont I began to make metal parts. Photo shows my equipment all of which was bought for under $75USD. Do not be afraid to learn to silver solder.  All it takes is some practice.  Check out Russ's practicum on the subject and get started.
 

 
 
Here are the steps I took to make the ring for the end of the bow sprit. Most other metal parts were made using the same approach.
 
Photo 64
 

 
Photo 65
 

 
Photo 66
 

 
Photo 67
 

 
Photo 68
 

 
Photo 68A
 
Metal parts for masts.
 

 
Photo 69
 

 
More to come......
 
BFN,
Hopeful aka David

Hi Mates,
 
Post #11 of my Sharpie schooner Build Log
 
Hull painting continues.....
 
Photo 59
 
Please note that I laid Timiya tape, comes in many different widths, to keep the paint below the water line. To avoid the paint from bleeding under the tape, I first applied a very light coat of clear acrylic at the lower edge of the tape.....keep it a thin coat!!!! 
 

 
Photo 60
 
First of 3 coats of red oxide acrylic paint.  Each coat was sanded to 400 grit before poceeding with the following coat.  In the end the paint was as smooth as glass without any imperfections.  Haste makes wast when not taking time to get it right.
 

 
Photo 61
 
Hull and rudder paintwork completed.
 

 
Photo 62
 

 
One must be very patient with paint work. Some of the builders on the site are masters at brush painting; so good  their paintwork looks like air brush work.
 
More to come......
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

Hi Mates,
 
Post #10 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log
 
Photo 54
 
Adding the rub rail, combing, and gammoning iron.
 

 
Photo 55
 
Making the gammoning iron from a piece of copper tube. A great exercise. I now make metal parts from sheet brass, much easier.
 

 
Photo 56
 
I changed the design of the tiller and rudder from an inboard to outboard design. After a few tries this photo shows the final design.
 

 
Photo 57
 
Time to add the water line.
 

 
Photo 58
 
Add the functional rudder and waterline. The main boom horse is also finished. Note I added sliders to the window openings and combing around the forward storage locker and the main cabin.
 

 
Next comes paint, me thinks!
 
BFN
Hopeful aka David

HI,
 
The repost saga continues and I thank all builders who have taken the time to repost their logs!!!
 
Post #9 of my Sharpie Schooner Build
 
Time to build a simple cradle to work the vessel from here.
 
Photo 47
 

 
Photo 48
 

 
Now to make the toe rail. Take a look at steps 89-92 of the instructions as to how to make the toe rail per kit instructions. The toe rail I made is different from the one in the instructions as it employs many more scuppers similiar a real vessel.
 
Photo 49
 
Toe rail prior to be added to the vessel.
 

 
Photo 50
 
Jig made to make the toe rail.
 

 
Photo 51
 
Bending the toe rail.
 

 
Photo 52
 
Gluing toe rail to vessel.
 

 
Photo 53
 
Finished!
 

 
More to follow......................
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

Hi Mates,
 
Post #8 of my Sharpie Build Log
 
Photo shows the additon of the starboard side strake followed by the port side strake, see step 52-56.
 
Photo 43
 

 
Photo 44
 

 
Next Step was to add the two bottom planks, see  steps 57 & 58.
 
Photo 45
 

 
Photo 46
 
At this point I was getting a bit impatient so I went ahead a worked on the masts, booms, gaffs, bowsprit,and sampson post. I just wanted to see the build looking like a vessel. All the components were dry amd removed prior to continuing on.
 
 

 
More to come.
 
BFN,
Hopeful aka David

HI Mates,
 
Thia continues my repost.
 
Post # 6 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log
 
Returned to complete steps 24-32 of the instructions to  build the cargo hold and the cabin.
 
Photo 37
 

 
Photo 38
 

 
Photo 39
 
A Nanook shows up at the building site for the first time intent to follow the build. Looks to be a 1500 pound male.
 
To make the black window openings for the interior of the cabin and storage areas I painted strips of wood black and glued them in place before gluing on the hatch covers. Used white gesso as primer followed by egg shell white (white with a hint of grey) acrylic paint. Used gesso followed by black acrylic paint fot the black srips.
 

 
Photo 40
 

 
Photo 41
 

 
Repost of build will continue shortly.
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

Hi Mates,
 
Post #6 of my Sharpie Schooner Build
 
Next Step is to add the keel strips and the chines. See steps 37-48 of the instructions.
 
Photo 30
 
Dry fitting the components.
 

 
Photo 31
 
Nice smooth run of the chine from bow to stern.
 

 
photo 32
 
Keel stirps and chines glued in place and trimed to length. I also faired the outer edge of the bulkheads and chines at this time (see page 18 regarding fairing).
 

 
Photo 33
 
Transom cap (step 49 instructions) set in place and glued.  Trim the stern end of the deck flush with the transom cap at this time.
 

 
Photo 34
 
Time to add the stem piece (see steps 62 & 63 page 20).
 

 
Photo 35
 
Stem added.
 

 
Photo 36
 
Before I forget, add a short piece of wood to build up the false keel just behind the botton of the skeg and running to the top center of the transon.  Otherwise you will have trouble installing the bottom boards later. This piece of wood is not on the plans.
 

 
See you later with the next post.
 
BFN,
Hopeful aka David

Hi Mates,
 
Post #6 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log
 
My second jig allowed me to work hands free on the bottom up side of the vessel.
 
The jig was made from scrap. The dowels are the same diameter as the masts. Note the pin holes high on the dowels and well as those located lower down.
 

 
Photo 26
 
 
The pins prevent the dowels from moving downward as I work on the vessel. The distance betwees the dowels is the same as the distance between the mast holes. See the ships plans. Note I marked a line on both the base and dowels to locate the dowels properly if I ever want to remove the pins.
 

 
Photo 28

 
Photo 29
 
The top of the dowels pass through the mast steps and stop as the base of the mast holes.
 
 

 
Let me know if you have any questions.
 
BFN!
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
"there is wisdom in many voices"

Hi mates,
 
I'm a bookaholic so have  most of the books mentioned in this forum. The best general overall building book I have is Model Shipbuilding from Stem to Stern by Milton Roth ISBN-13: 978-0-8306-2844-5......$20USD from amazon.com. The book contains 288 pages of great stuff and many illustrations. If I had to get rid of all my books but one, I would be happy with Roth's "how to" book.
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

HI All,
 
Post 19 of my Sharpie Build Log
 
This is the last post of my build. If this build helps but one future builder of Midwest's Sharpie Schooner it was worth taking the time to repost the log. 
 
At this time I want to thank the members of the forum, you know who you are, whp helped me through my first build. Without your kind assistance along the way the build would have turned out very different. 
 
To everyone on the present forum I say take heart. It will take some time to get back to where the forum was in terms of build logs and other information. The work has begun, and we will get there because of the dedication of the Admirals, moderators and current builders on the site. I wish you all well.  Ps.....show as much technique as possible when constructing build logs to help ofther builders grow and enjoy the forum.
 
Photo 103
 
From here the photos are shots of the completed vessel.
 

 
Photo 104

 
Photo 105
 

 
Photo 106

 
Photo 107

 
Photo 108

 
This ends the repost.
 
Do not ever be ashamed to construct any type vessel.  They all, in the end, can be quite wonderful!
 
Thanks for looking in on the log, much appreciated.
 
BFN!
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
 “there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed:      Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Reposting the build log at present
On the bench:  Sultana (MSW)   Reposting the log and keeping on with the build
 
Next:  Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi,
 
Getting to the end of the repost.
 
Post 18 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log
 
Rigging continues from post 17.
 
 
Photo 96

 
Photo 97

 
Photo 98

 
Photo 99

 
Photo 100

 
Photo 101

 
Photo 102

 
More to come........
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
 “there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed:      Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Reposting the build log at present
On the bench:  Sultana (MSW)   Reposting the log and keeping on with the build
 
Next:  Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi Michael,
 
Oh me, oh my, what a wonderful build. Who says a solid hull vessel cannot be elegant whatever the size.
 
Looking forward to more!
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Reposting the build log at present
On the bench: Sultana (MSW) Reposting the log and keeping on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Dave,
 
Where is hard maple on the scale?
 
Tks.
Hopeful aka David

Hi Bob,
 
Are you going to use the kit or do a scratch build? Am enjoying your progress!!!
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
"Standards set are standards met".

Hi Mates,
 
Post 4 of my Sultana build.
 
Nest step is to make certain that the hull is the correct length per the drawings.
 
Photo 14
 
Hull termplates used to determine when the hull is the right length. Length is correct when the  number 4 hash marks overlap. My hull
was approximately 3/8 inch too long.
 
 

 
Photo 15
 
Removed mass at the bow until the template fit perfecty.
 

 
Photo 16

 
Photo 17
 
Removed mass at the stern of the vessel until the number 4 hashmarks overlapped.
 

 
Photo 18
 
Jig I made to remove mass at the stern wihile insuring the stern was square with the center line of the vessel. 
 

 
Photo 19

 
 
BFN.
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.
Current: Sultana (MSW) Reposting log and continuing on with the build)