aliluke

Good Wednesday evening everyone.  Today's progress report is trying to finish the rudder.  Still.
 
Last report I had shaped and drilled holes in the pintles and gudgeons, then balckened them.  Next step was attachment.  I used 5 minute epoxy which it turns out is very messy.  I should have lined my parts with tape; that stuff gets everywhere including your fingers.  Below I am gluing on the rudder pintles.  I did the top and bottom first to make fitting easier.

Same for the hull; it is not easy getting the brass pre-shaped so it fits well but not too snug or it snowplows all the epoxy out of the rabbits.  I had to do some gentle scraping of the surrounding hull after everything dried to get the shiny epoxy off areas it managed to migrate to.

It was a Christmas Miracle!  The rudder could be slid into place with only a little adjusting on the first try.  I was honestly shocked.  The top pintle has a small gap that we are going to live with.  No way I am redoing the rudder at this point.

My blackening was starting to wear off from all my handling.  It too liked to get everywhere.  see previous statement - I should have taped around my hinges. 
 
Next up was adding the nails/bolts/whatever you call them.  I had given up trying to modify the brass nails I had from the kit and some smaller ones from my 18th Century Longboat kit.  They were simply too big.  So, once again using the hapless kit supplied walnut rudder, I tried the simpler method of inserting short lengths of 24g brass wire, dipped in epxoy, into each hole.  Once dried they were very solid and amenable to filing them down.  In the pic below the wire is drying in the holly rudder and I haven't filed it yet.
 
And this time I used plenty of blue tape to mask the parts.

The epoxy dried shiny but I plan to paint the boltheads and touch up any bare areas with black paint.
 
And finally here is the sternpost with its epoxied porcupine-like bolts drying.  And I have started making paper templates for my stands.

thats it for tonight.  Once the epoxy has dried, at least 24 hrs, I will flatten all the bolts down and paint.
 
thanks for reading
 
cisco
 
 
 

Just found this log by a master. As a mere maker of kits with hand tools only, your work is humbling and awe inspiring. After that I am lost for words. Incredible won't even do.

I have, when time allows, been tinkering away at the VM 26' Launch. It is a relentlessly tricky little kit and I'll be glad to get back to the main subject - HMS Fly - next.
 
My launch is pretty well a straight out of the box kit. The main floor didn't fit so I removed the outer planks. I added an anchor rope. I shaped the oar handles and blades but inserted them into a micro brass tube for the shafts and added a leather? thickening where they base through the oarlock slots. I painted the upper works red as that suited my ship's Captain. Even though I didn't need to, I painted below the waterline in a creamy white. My hull planking allowed it to be left natural but I thought that would look odd on a ship with a copper bottom.
 
Some photos (which show touch-ups required). I have yet to stow the oars which promises to be as fiddly as everything else was.

 
 

Brilliant BE. Reminds me that I have to get back into my models after a long summer break. Your standards are well beyond me but it doesn't mean I can't have fun trying to emulate them! Thank you for another fabulous log.
 
Alistair

Truly inspiring work - totally incredible in fact. I am in awe. Can't imagine getting there but a joy to see unfold here.

Brilliant BE. Reminds me that I have to get back into my models after a long summer break. Your standards are well beyond me but it doesn't mean I can't have fun trying to emulate them! Thank you for another fabulous log.
 
Alistair

Brilliant BE. Reminds me that I have to get back into my models after a long summer break. Your standards are well beyond me but it doesn't mean I can't have fun trying to emulate them! Thank you for another fabulous log.
 
Alistair

Brilliant BE. Reminds me that I have to get back into my models after a long summer break. Your standards are well beyond me but it doesn't mean I can't have fun trying to emulate them! Thank you for another fabulous log.
 
Alistair

Brilliant BE. Reminds me that I have to get back into my models after a long summer break. Your standards are well beyond me but it doesn't mean I can't have fun trying to emulate them! Thank you for another fabulous log.
 
Alistair

Almost wants to make me redo my AVS...but...no. Stunning work and incredible commitment to detail!

Almost wants to make me redo my AVS...but...no. Stunning work and incredible commitment to detail!

Almost wants to make me redo my AVS...but...no. Stunning work and incredible commitment to detail!

Almost wants to make me redo my AVS...but...no. Stunning work and incredible commitment to detail!

Almost wants to make me redo my AVS...but...no. Stunning work and incredible commitment to detail!

Thanks Thukydides.  I am trying to get over this brasswork hump which I feel has slowed my enthusiasm and progress more than I'd like. 
 
Probably because the pintles and gudgeons have taken way more work than I planned.  This weekend I spent a couple hours fine-tuning.  All the pieces fit mostly, but lots of slightly lengthening or widening mortises, slightly shortening and rounding off the ends of the strapwork, and chiseling holes to allow the rudder to be seated with the smallest gap possible.  Heres where I started; to me the gap was too wide and the top pintle a little too high.  Not much I can do about the high pintle at this point but I can work on the gap.

I also noticed all my handling and fitting of straps was getting the holly dirty.
 
After this final futzing I washed the brass in isopropyl alcohol for 20 minutes, then moved them with stainless steel tweezers to a aprox 1:8 brass black to water for 15 minutes.

Here they are drying, about 99% coverage.  1 spot on a gudgeon that will need paint.  I haven't handled them yet to make sure the blackening sticks but I am optimistic.

And finally I started with the hull's finish coat.  After sanding off any marks on the sternpost from fitting the brasswork  I applied the first coat of Polycrylic (water based polyurethane that doesn't yellow) with a qtip, the immediately wiped it down with a old cotton t-shirt.  Most of the finish comes off so its a thin coat, but the tshirt smooths quite nicely.  I'm guessing I'll do 3 or 4 coats.  I have to test some of my discarded blackened brasswork to see if it looks ok covered with this finish; if not I'll put hinges in after finishing.
 
Here's the hull after its first coat.  It looks almost identical to before I finished it, which is the point.

thats it for me.  Monday is fast approaching and its off to mentally prepare with some hot chocolate and a book before bed.
 
thanks for reading
 
cisco

Post One Hundred and Fifty- nine.
 
Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part Two)
Freed from its building frame and the centres removed the process of fitting out can begin.
 
I have always been amazed that twisting away the mdf centres leaves the hull intact with little trace of their removal….
But not this time; - the planking partly disassembled, requiring careful re-fitting and use of diluted pva on the inside to stabilise the hull.
How this will impact on the build remains to be seen, but it may be necessary to paint the inner bulwarks.

4008
I made a Styrene foam cradle to support the hull whilst attempting to clean up the inside.
I used a combination of micro chisels, pen sander, and sheets to remove the glue adhesions and rough surfaces.
This is quite a fraught operation and needed careful handling.
 
I take notice of where areas will be covered by the footwaling, fore deck, benches and thwarts, and make pragmatic decisions how far to take the cleaning up in these areas, against risk of further damage.

4007
I wasn’t too keen on the set-up at the stern, so I installed a stern post.
I dislike the brass etched rudder facings, supplied with these kits, convenient as they may be. The wooden rudder core was faced with 0.6mm pear and then sanded down to shape.
 
The hanging arrangement will be modified to reflect the true set-up.

4020
Unlike my previous experience of Vanguard boats the Pinnace has Pearwood gratings and footwaling which I like. More convenient and natural looking than the brass etched versions which require painting and sticking with ca.
 
At this stage there are a few additions one can make to the boats to add realism.
Lifting ringbolts to the footwaling, and mast steps as shown in the above photo.

4016
I divert from the kit when it comes to fitting the thwart supports, I leave them extended to the stern to support the sternsheet benches.

4017
The benches are provided as a unit including the aftermost thwart.
 

4025
I prefer to cut this away, modify the benches and add the thwart as a separate item.
I have added a panel below the aft seat which will double up as a compartment.
 
When it comes to the cox’n seat there is a slight issue; a grating is provided, but it sits far too high to be a practical  platform for the Cox’n ‘s feet.

4032
It is prevented going lower by a ledge forming part of the keel set-up. Careful paring away of this incumbrance allows the grating to sit at a more realistic level.
A minor point maybe but the detail devil in me wouldn’t let it go.

4037
The bow platform comes as a pre-cut item which wasn’t a good fit on my build no doubt because of my failings. Fortunately, there is plenty of fret to re-make these items.

4028
Still very much w-i-p and a lot yet to do.
 
 
B.E.
21/03/2024

 

Awesome! Your work is, as always, inspiring and wonderful to behold. I have got a spare shelf here if you need somewhere to put it...😁

Thank you Bug, glad to see work has restarted on your Pegasus.👍
 
Post One Hundred and Fifty- five
 
I continued to fit the Port side billboards and linings.

3939

3936

3937
I think I have made a better job of the Port side, so off came the starboard side for a re-fit.

3941
Starboard side re-done, happier now.

3942
I have also taken the opportunity to replace the bow port lid and add double lifting lanyards.

3852
Small sections of telephone wire sleeving are used to represent  the port lanyard tubes, but they did need drilling through to take the 0.30mm line which was stiffened with ca for the purpose.

3932
Another small job is to add the rudder chains. I used some Caldercraft Brass chain, 18 links /per inch.
I will get around to trimming them at some point.
 
B.E.
08/03/2024
 
 

Post One Hundred and Fifty- four
This post follows on from Post 152 having a close relationship to anchors.
 
One of the reasons I made up the anchors is that I have also been thinking about anchor linings and billboards.
These do not feature with the kit and do not tend to appear on contemporary plans.

Many contemporary models show them, as on Amazon above. 
They were an important feature on ships of the period to protect the hull from the anchor flukes.

Chuck’s Winnie
My go to reference, here you can see the lining running over the wale.

7396
I added billboards to my Sphinx build as above.

3906
Having an anchor made up is useful in that the arc made by the anchor as it is swung horizontal from the cathead for securing, determines the position of the lining and billboards.
 
In considering Bolsters and Billboards for Indy I am hamstrung by the absence of specific sizes of timber to use. With Sphinx it was relatively easy having the TFFM book to refer to.
I know where these fittings were placed so it is basically down to what looks good to my eye.
 
I firstly made the Bolsters using some Boxwood square stock of 2.75mm. This was topped by some 3.5 x 0.7mm  boxwood strip.

3910
The length of the bolster worked out at 26mm. 
Notches were cut out of the back side to fit over the first two preventer plates of the Fore channels and a slight curve was induced to match the curve of the bow.
The bolster was fixed to the Black strake only with pins.
 

3913
With the bolsters  in place the Billboards can be made. For this I use some 1mm Boxwood scrap inscribed with 3mm wide boards which reflect the topsides planking.
 
The Linings

3914
These cover the main wale in the case of Indy and scribe an arc at the fore end that follows that of the anchor swing.
I settled on using some 0.6mm Pearwood scrap which suits my eye.
 

3917
3919

3929
In fixing the linings  I have used double sided tape. This gives me the option of easy removal if I decide I don’t like them, and the jury is still out on that.
 
Altho’ I’m not fitting the anchors I don’t think it will be an easy fit to get the bowers to look right.

3923

3924
If the bill is to rest on the Fore channel there is little room between the deadeyes.

3930
A possible fixing with the arm atop the fore end of the channel secured with shank painters around the timberheads.
 
I will be interested to see how others tackle the anchor rigging.🤔
 
 
B.E.
07/03/2024

Thankyou Guys for your comments and 'likes' 
@ Alistair - that shelf is going to need some heavy duty brackets.😉
 
B.E.
 
 

Awesome! Your work is, as always, inspiring and wonderful to behold. I have got a spare shelf here if you need somewhere to put it...😁

Awesome! Your work is, as always, inspiring and wonderful to behold. I have got a spare shelf here if you need somewhere to put it...😁

Awesome! Your work is, as always, inspiring and wonderful to behold. I have got a spare shelf here if you need somewhere to put it...😁

Post One Hundred and Fifty-two
 
Anchors 
As a change of scene, I thought I would make up a couple of the anchors.
The kit includes the four main bower anchors, if the smaller stream and kedge anchors are required they are easily obtained using aftermarket suppliers.
 
The kit provided anchors have a scale shank length of 77mm (16’ 2”) which equates to a weight of 43cwt
This weight falls between the allocated anchor weights for 38-50-gun ships.
The outer diameter of the ring is 29” which scales to 11.5mm.
The thickness of the ring scales to 1.4mm.
A 64-gun ship had 4 bowers at 57cwt plus stream at 15cwt and a kedge of 7cwt 2qrts.
 
The kit anchors are 3d printed and very finely sculpted. All the subtle features are moulded into the shank and arms.
I think the day of the white metal anchor is coming to a close.
As with all resin stuff the parts need washing and priming.
 
The stocks are pre-cut from Pearwood and are faced with a thinner veneer that contains the Trenails correctly positioned and with engraved markings for the iron retaining bands.

3831
The only modification I felt necessary was to taper the arms thickness a little from outside the central area towards the outer ends.
This reflects a more authentic shape.
 
Once primed, I used Vallejo black/grey, followed by dark brown /rust weathering powders.

3824
The anchors on the left have had the weathering treatment, those on the right as painted.

3830
Brass wire of 1.4mm ø was used to make the rings which have an outside ø of 11.5mm.

3835
The ends of the rings were reduced in size to fit the shank and chemically blackened to give a little tooth for the puddening.
 
The stock halves have mortises cut into the inner sides to fit against the shank. There should be a gap between them but I thought it a tad too large so I deepened the mortice somewhat.
Glued together the facings are then added.

3834
Those familiar with my stuff know that I favour heat shrink rubber tubing to represent iron hoops.
 
The final part is to add the puddening to the anchor ring.
I used Syren 0.45mm ø and Morope 0.1mm stuff for the seizings.

3838
In applying the puddening unless you glue the ring in place it needs to be held steady. As I work around the ring I apply pva to help keep it in place.

3842

3847
 

3849
Capt. Pellew is dwarfed by Indy’s anchors.
 
I won’t be fitting or rigging the anchors but as far as I can see there is no reference to this in either manual or plans, so other sources will have to be found; fortunately there are many available.
 
 
B.E.
02/03/2024

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024